LamboZ

I would love to, i really would but i have no pictures to share..... not yet anyways. Sorta have a contract with a magazine to not show any pictures untill they print it. It wouldn't matter much at all if they werent doing a build-up type photoshoot. If you need me to describe it better ill try. i pretty much just built my own taps, welded them onto the headlight bucket. smoothed everything out, mounted the headlight cover and then all done. doesnt look like its added on, looks factory, looks super sweet. ill be painting the tabs that stick out of the headlight bucket a bright silver so you wont see them (if they were painted body color they would show).

If you want to go the extra step like I did then do this. IF you have metal buckets and are willing to weld/paint the buckets, make your own very slim bracket that comes out of the headlight bucket it self. It was a PITA but its so much cleaner looking.

well to the guys who have mounted these or any fender mirrors using the factory specs to where they should be mounted.... do you think it looks silly because the mirrors arent in the same spot on the fender? I JUST mounted my passenger JDM factory mirror using the factory specs, but when i was going to do the driver side it just looks toooooo werid. i know thats where it should go but it just doesnt look good to me. and YES i did flip around the specs for a LHD car. any thoughts?

muria is coming back...

Do a search on DOHC L series heads on this site, read up and you will find out all you need to know. theres nothing out there that just bolts right up. its 100% custom and would cost alot of money to get it done. the main question is why do you want a DOHC? people have hit 700+hp out of our crappy non-crossflow heads and in japan, shops have hit the 1000hp mark. If its just the look your going for on a nice DOHC engine layout then just go with a 2JZ or RB swap.

the price of the swap is WAY cheaper and easier then to find and buy that OS head. Trust me, i've been looking for one for years. And when I found one I couldnt afford it and couldnt get the guy to sell it.

Ive been searching and searching but I cant find it anywhere! Im pretty sure it was on this website, Im looking for a picture and the thread about how you can move you steering linkage rod using a hem joint and etc so you can clear your header/downpipe. im looking to do something like this, and any help/info would be great!

Well I cut them out, the lower bar ill be making looks very much like the one in the picture above. except ill be adding 4 support bars on it that will connect to the frame rails also. The top bar is gone, nothing will replace that except something like a strut bar (oval tubing) but more forward then where the bar use to be stock. Ill mount my zues fastners for the hood on that bar too.

Im running 4in oval tubing, but its harder to use the oval tubing right off the turbo, makes for even less space. i have 4in oval tubing starting right where the tranny starts, so im going from reg 4in to oval at that spot. Turbo is a GT42R

Well I figured ive changed everything else on this ride, might as well go ahead and cut them out. im fooling around with ideas now for a new lower support bar, im trying to make it so I can mount my front bell pan on it also.

Steering rack/oil pump i didn't think of.. Thank you! Brake MC's are inside the car, so that wouldn't be a problem. Alternator won't be a problem, im running a custom mount and shorter belt. Clutch slave cylinder lines won't be a problem. Electrical is all custom, so not a problem. Now..... the driveline alignment is the hard one. The tranny/shifter angle would change and I know ill need to fab up a new tranny mount, I have to make one anyways for the tranny I am using so thats not that big of a problem. oil pick-up. I was going to cut it and re weld it to the angle it was at before. That should be okay, correct? I was only going to slant it maybe another inch or 2 towards the passenger side. Thank you for the help so far.

its a S30 Z. this isnt your run of the mill type L28ET setup. downpipe is 4inchs and the exhaust manifold takes up alot of space. so thats why the need to slant it more. so anybody?

Jon, thanks for jumping in. i found this picture just a sec ago in another thread. now he still had the top one but he did remove and make his own bottom one. now i would do the same, but alittle less profile. I dont have much space up front with my engine setup. I could very well make pretty much a strut bar but place it alittle more foward where the top core support bar is now. Ill never track this car around a track like you do with yours, its just a fast street car. Strut bar that the car has now is almost like the PDK front bar, so it does have extra bracing.

Im looking to remove the front core support. Not just the top where the hood prop is, but the lower one also that is connected to the frame rails. Heres a picture of what im looking to remove. NOT MY CAR. Im looking to remove the one thats wrapped in the picture and the lower one also. I would add some bar stock with bracing (with adjustabilty) to replace the lower one but i want the top one gone all together. the lower one is in the way of some parts and i just need to make a lower profile type cross bar. The top one is 100% in the way. The Car has a front strut bar, and is getting a 8 point roll cage for the wondering. Is this a bad or good idea? Ive always read that nothing in FRONT of the strut wells are structual. correct? Thank you very much.

Im trying to make room for my downpipe on my L28ET, but i can't seem to find any more room. I know the L6 is already slanted some bit, but I was wondering how much more can we slant this engine? I know doing this will move the shifter some, and I would need to do some work to the mounts. If i slant it some more, will this cause any problems internaly? Any info would be great.

they have made 16's in the past. they do make 17's, and the ones JTmny1999 posted are not the ones on thats on the silver Z. the ones on the silver Z are these CCw's.... http://www.ccwheel.com/files/wheelprofiles-model.php?id=classic When i talked to John at CCW back in the day, he told me that 16's are the same price as a 17in wheel, and would take way longer to get, as they dont stock any 16in rims to make a set.

the wheels on the silver Z are CCW classics. on that car im pretty sure there all the same size and offset. he is a member on this website. theres alot of members on here that have CCW wheels on there Z's.

Once you sand Zero Rust you pretty much lose all the protection you get with this product. I would use a Sandable Primer on top of the ZR. Make sure you're body work is where you want it, then ZR, then Sandable Primer, sand to you're liking, then base and then clear.

im not tyring to compair the FJ to Hondas FC motor, the Nissan motor I think is a better engine. I love Hondas S2K, I think the engine goes very well for that kind of car and I would love to own one! b__sosick: Nothing wrong with high RPM's, and nothing wrong with all power at a High RPM. It was never designed as a drag car with power down low like a SBC. But hell it will beat a 350Z stock for stock in a drag race if the S2K driver can launch it correctly. I think this FJ swap is going to be KILLER!

vbmenu_register("postmenu_668057", true); JustinOlson: Jason tuned that car am i correct? From what i remember about that S2K, it did make great power but the car was only good for roll races and so on. I remember Jason saying that the power was great but the power band on the street was just not worth anything. 30psi on a L28 can hit that magic 700hp mark, its all in the tune/timing and the most important (i think) the head work. In Japan (sorta back in the day) there was 700++++whp L28ET's that would spin to 9K all day, and would make insane torque too! Those BMW motors are very cool, smooth power bands, great torque, and can make power on stock internals like is show in this thread, but a 2JZ will handle more no matter what on stock internals. That motor is so overbuilt for the factory its just dumb! LOVE IT! But come on guys, who leaves there internals stock anyways!

Hondas S2000 makes 240hp out of a 2.0 N/A.

I didn't complete it but I did measure everything and so on, just incase I wanted to to do it. A 12in rear wheel will fit, it just will take some cutting to the Subtle flare and some glass work. The wheels I was going to use for this type of setup were either CCW or Jline. Just for the info a 11in wide rear wheel will fit on just a ZG flared Z car.

Yes, a 12in wheel will fit in the rear. The ZG's & Subtle Flares will need some work to fit nice and flush agaisnt each other.