Ducer

Hi Everyone, Im looking for some used lowering springs for my 1973 240z. If you have some Eibach or Tokico or some JDM quality lowering springs please let me know. Thank you.

HEY yall, Im looking to buy a set of used coilovers for my earl 1974 260z. Please let me know what you have and how much? Thank you!

Additional zx dizzy modificatio. Retarding the vacuum adcance. So after experiencing the massive zx vacuum advance and curve i pondered about a solution and i got one. As an aquarium hobbiest i found that using an adjustable air valve is a simple way to reduce the suction and thus limiting the zx dizzy's diaphram operation. So i went on ebay and purchased a nice chrome $3 dollar air valve. After setting the base timing at 7 degrees and playing with the air valve ive managed to get the advance to be at 20-25 degrees at full load. Without this limitation it would be over 30 degrees at full load. With this simple valve you can set your base timing higher to 10-15 degrees and you can lower the advance under load. In addition you can diable or enable the vacuum advance with a turn of the knob. I highly recommend doing this instead of plugging off the vac advance. Its like a simple manual vacuum contol. And it works awesome and looks cool. NO need to fiddle with the distributor plates and complicated process to reduce the vacucum advance. Enjoy

Looking for a set of Swastika 280zx Turbo wheels. I am in Los Angeles,CA. If you have a set please let me know, pick up preferred but okay with shipping if price is right. Also if you have XXR or any aftermarket wheels with 0 offset that would suffice. Please PM me or Email: UsdmGarage@yahoo.com Thank you, Ducer.

Your stock s booster is not Powerful enough to handle the Master and calipers. In addition it may be old and siezed up. You should test it out buy pumping the brake pedals a few times then start the car. With the car on the brake pedal should depress as the vacuum assist would kick in. Further more i purchased a new remans booster and it was still horrible ao i opted to upgrade to a z32 sual diaphram abs booster with a z32 bm57 17/16 master brake cylinder which can take even mighty thora hammer strikes. Most likely the s30 booster isnt sufficient so youd have to upgrade to a modern booster.

WOW, this is sexy, kinda like Soga's new Simpson shoes. Wow, RB awsomo power.

Please read the Original Write up again, I've answered all the questions in it, I made it more clear. Thanks

WOW, talk about O.C.D! This isn't a datsun anymore, it's a one off. Tubings look SEX~!

Okay here is the definitive 260z with 280zx Distributor swap and tachometer hook up. Most FSM and other people don't have a specific write up for the 260z, so after months of trial and tribulations, I made this and it's surely the best, it's idiot proof: Materials need: 1) 1979-1981 280zx Distributor, 280zx The distributor base, cap and rotor. 1A) 1979-1981 E12-80 Igniter aka (Ignition Control Unit ICU) which is screwed on the side of the distributor. You can use the 82-83 Distributor but you should use the E12-80 Igniter, as the 82-83 Igniter has a few more terminals and a little more complicated. 2) 14-16 gauge wires, spade connectors, or you can go to the junk yard and cut the original connector pigtail that plugs into the E12-80 igniter, but female spade connectors will work as well. 3) Use your stock Cylindrical type coil, you can upgrade to MSD coil or Flamethrower ****NOTE***I've tried using a more modern coil such as an RX7, 240sx coil, but I believe the resistance in the coil is different and therefore the Tach didn't function correctly as the appropriate voltage was not sent to the tach. The voltage was drawn away by the newer/modern type coil and thus insufficient voltage was sent to the tach making it sporadic. 4) Use OEM 260z,280z,280zx grey resistor with 3 red lines and one amber, came stock with 260z, 280z, and even the 280zx. If you can't find one at the junk yard, you simply go on ebay or radioshack and get a 2.2K OHM / 1 Watt Resistor 12v or 120V max. (which is the same specs as the factory one). You will need this resistor as it lowers the voltage so that the tach will work. Without out this resistor the tach will not work. The 260z and 280z tach works on Voltage and Negative Triggered. Resistor Location: In the main harness coming from outside to inside where just above the Passenger's right feet would be, encased in a white plastic cocoon, resistor is inside that. 5) **Delete the ballast resistor unit as you will not need this anymore. 6) **Delete the Transistor (Ignition IGN)unit as you will not need this with the ZX electronic distributor swap.

Hey guys. Id like to buy a 280z hood with the two vents. $100-200. Los Angeles area or SoCal. Please let me know. Thank you

I have a brand new Arizona Zcar intake manifold I can sell to you at a great deal!! Let me know, I have this set up on my Z, but with a clifford manifold, holley carbs are the best way to go as price means. Tripples are the bomb, but very expensive and a biatch to tune. Holleys are so easy and parts are readily available at any parts store, simple simple, cheap, works great.

With regards to injector plug clean up, on my 240sx, i extended the injector plugs and ran the harness underneath the intake manifold, not sure you can do it with L28, but it's an ideal.

I did a complete wire tuck on my 260z a month or two back. It's very clean. What I did was run the entire main harness through the hallow fender frame channel(fresh Air passage). And moved all the fuses, and other units inside the car in the passenger side under the dash. The channel is the perfect size. You'll run the entire harness back into the car through the firewall hole, then use a long piece of coat hanger or I used a thick tubing, or cable, pushed it from the front through and taped the tip of the harnesses and pulled it through. You'll need to zip tie or temporarily tape up the main harness so it's as skinny as possible. Then run alternator, starter extensions. I still have the battery in the front, just didn't want to do the battery relocation yet. overally no wires showing, and it runs just the way it sits in this picture. I also deleted a lot of wires I dont' need anymore, like A/C and EGR, ignition coil is moved to the front of the car, so nothing is in the engine bay. I also cleaned up the fuel rail lines, as I made/bent my own out of some left over 240sx fuel lines I had laying around. Bunch of other little details and it makes the engine bay really clean. Keep it clean, SOLDER, heat shrink wrap everything, and use shielded spade connectors. The spark plug wires are autozone duralast cheapo's eventually I'll make custom ones and route the plug wires along the front side of the engine making it a lot cleaner, but as of right now, it's damn clean and it will do. I will also make a fuse/relay holding board for all the units that I moved inside the car, so much to do, so little time and $$$$. To save money I had to be innovative. I used left over 240sx parts, 300zx parts, and zip ties, and brackets from 240sx. The spark plug wire seperators are just white zip ties zipped together. Instead of using rubber hoses, I had left over hardlines, bought a tubing bender for a few bunks and measured and bent simple 90* degree bends and gives it a much cleaner look. I did tubing for the fuel, booster vacuum, and vacuum advance on the dizzy. It gives it a nice shape and no sagging rubber hoses everywhere.. I bought a hot rod vertical overflow tank which figs perfectly with the tabs on the aluminum and stock radiator, I shimmed the overflow tank with 2 "Stanley" sockes, you can use cheapo harborfreight as spacers. I believe 2 new 12mm chrome deep sockets, and bought two long M6x1.25 bolts and that was that. So cheap little mods that look good and you don't need too much money

Hello fellas, I upgraded to the electronic distributor and now I am trying to figure out how to get my 260z's tach working. I read about 2.2k ohm resistors so I bought a few, now I have no idea on what to do. Im not sure where to solder these resistors on, nor which wire. I believe that my early 260z is a negative pick up signal type. So the negative pick up is blue at the coil? Please give me a full detail on what to do to get the tach to work if you've done it before. Thank you.

WTB: Want to Buy: 1. 240z/260z lowering springs. 2. ModernMotorsport 240sx rear conversion brackets Please let me know. Thank you.

The kia sportage seals are good for me, well the driver side at least. I paid $30 shipped for 2 rear 2000 Sportage seals, and the driver is snug, the passenger's window frame and door is bad so there's a little gap. Paper test passed on the driver door while passenger door top area is not as tight. But it rained and it sealed fine. I had to tweek the upper window frame a bit. But overall satisfied, i was running with no seals at all, and surely $30 is a hella lot better without the doors vibrating while driving. Still need a rear hatch seal. Any cheap parts from cars? I tried 240sx hatch rear seal, and way too thick, so cross 240sx hatchback seals or Z32. Way different in design too. Prices are ridiculous, $1,000 dollars I can buy a running 240z for the price of seals. Need to find rear seals that came off a newer car we can get at the junk yards...come on guys! yay.

What you can do as I do which is perfect is get the newer Nissan fuses. I get my fuses from a 240sx, 300zx (z32) and basically any Nissan around 1990-1995. You will need 2 fuses. The starter which is a 75amp and another which is 40am. You can go to the junk yards and find these readily available. You take the fuses apart from it's casing bend the legs straight and solder on large Female spades you find at autozone or where ever. Since you 280z guys may not have the covers you don't have to dismantle these fuses from their casings which is better since the casing will shield the fuses. I have like tons of these from all the cars I parted out and everything I hit the junk yards I get these. You can also buy these at autozone, but pfff, they're free and plenty. They are fuses so they will blow in the same principles as the fuseable link wires will burn baby burn. and remember, when you are planning to use a "relay" Nissan relays are the same as those you get at the store and probably way better. I have dozens of these, too. Free things all Nissan guys should have:

So I had purchased a new ballast resistor months ago, and my memory is so horrible I lost it. There goes $13 bucks. I picked up a 1979 280zx dizzy with the E12-80 and it works great as I tested on the work bench. My question is that this particular distributor has dual diaphragm a vacuum advance and I believe a vacuum retard, Can someone tell me which one is which? The outter one on top I assume is the vacuum advance. And is the inner bottom one a suck type or a blow type diaphragm? Look at the distance! Is the

Hey guys, I have an early 74 260z and Im running the stock distributor with a stock coil. I since bypassed the ballast resister and am running 12v constant to the coil and it's been running great. I was wondering was the 260z ever made for 12v constant system? As I know the 240z's were points and 12v's can reduce the life of the points and cause jumps. The 260z as I read is "Electronic" but it has a ballast resistor from the factory. Now Im assuming that the 260z's electronic distributor system was not meant for 12v? Anyway, I just bought a 1979 280zx Dizzy with the E12-80 ignition module box on it, and I also picked up the ZX mounting base at the pick a part today, BUT my main concern is ..........Is there a big benefit from upgrade the ZX opposed to the 260z's stock electronic system running at 12v constant? And If it is beneficial, and I do the 280zx dizzy upgrade, can I run a MSD blaster SS coil opposed to the old school cylindrical type? Coil is a coil? In addition, on the 260z there are 2 wires coming out of the dizzy, a green/white and a green/red which I believe is the "pick up?" Which wire is the tach sending wire anyway? are these green/white green/red pick ups related to the tach, or is it the green wire on the Negative of the coil which is related to the Tach? And will I lose my TACH? or is there a way to wire up the Tach to work after the ZX dizzy swap? Thank you very much. I await to be educated. Doing the swap seems quite straight foward, practicum is easy, theoretical eludes me a bit. Is it worth doing or "don't fix what is not broken?""

Thanks fellas, It is a 260z dash emblem on the rear strut bar. The Carburetor set up is a Clifford 6=8 manifold with a Holley 390cfm with a .025 quarter nozzle, which is ideal for the Z. It has a velocity stack on it in the previous picture, which I can't use because of the hood. I now upgraded to a spectre 6 3/8 diameter filter with 1.5" high filter. It clears the hood now, and im waiting for a 280z hood with vents so it will get more flow. Here's the carburetor set up now: I just got the 93-02 Kia Sportage rear door weatherstrippings for Z. They are freaking nice and fit perfectly with the exception that the seals have about 4" extra which I may cut today. Mine came off a 2000 Kia, I know the front door weatherstrippings from the Kia is 16" longer and needs cutting, I read somewhere the rear seals could be installed without cutting as someone already done it, but after installing it, cutting is necessary, but no biggie. I paid like $30 shipped for the pair of rubber strippings on ebay. Offered the seller $10 a piece plus $10 shipping. Came today, easy to install door is not solid and snug!!! Great and cheap upgrade for weathers. I also tried a 240sx rear hatch stripping off a 240sx hatch, but the 240sx is too thick for the rear. All I need now is the rear hatch seal.

So I just finished fitting in a pair of 2008 Mazda MX5 Miata seats and seat belts! I found these seats with seat belts on craigslist for $100, Amazing. Brand New, unused because the previous owner had built a race car with bucket seats and he never used these. Stumbled on them while trying to find older 90's miata seats. Here they are mounted in the car with very minimal modifications. Updated the seat belts to the 08 miatas because well, they are there, and new. I just made welded a bracket box for the seatbelt unit that's about it. (You can read more about the seats in the "Interior" tech section of this site) Finished the dash and center console a couple of weeks ago: Finshied the Engine bay, front strut bar, hand polished everything I could. Wire tucked, etc. Moved the coil on the outside of the engine bay, main harness went through the hallow channel of the passenger side frame. Relays are inside the car on passenger side. Still not sure what to paint her....Satin black? White? Gloss black? She now has $2,000 total invested. Not bad for my budget build.

Hey yallllllllllllllllll... Add to the List 2008 Mazda MX5 Miata Seats annnnnnnnd seat belt conversion~ I found these Brand new seats on Craigslist couple of weeks ago with seat belts for $100 bucks! Freaking brand new and the owner had stripped his Miata to build a race car in which he had aftermarket seats and these weren't even used. So killer deal and I was on Craigslist looking for older 90's miata seats but these were a killer steal. As I am driving to pick them up, about 1 hour drive which was worth it, I kept thinking please please be flat bottom mounted please........ And they are! The front part of the seats didn't need any modification except drilling 2 new holes on the S30 front bracket which each seat stud was 13" apart and datsun seats were like 11". The Rear of the seat just needed a flat 1.5" wide flat channel bar to offset the width about 1/2" on each side and about 1.5" back, and that's about it. So I even used the 2008 Miata seat belts, which was freaking awesome because the 14 or 17mm bolt on the C pillar of the S30 was the same thread! and freaking bolted on. I just made a custom bracket for the seat belts. Miatas were convertibles so the seat belt assembly had to sit where I put it due to the length of the retraction. I tried putting the seat belts on the floor as stock ones, but it too way too much tension taken and the unit kept wanting to fully retract, so I built my own cage for it. Migged it up, and bolted two 10mm in the middle of the lid compartments, and 3 (M8 bolts and nuts) drilled through the rear strut tower support bar. LMK what you think, it's freaking awesome upgrade. The seats are perfect. No rubbing, Slides fully back and forward. Miata seat has tilt pump ratcheting handle which moves the seat cushion up and down, so awesome. Height is almost as low as stock s30 seats, these will fit 6" to 6'2", Im 5'7" so heck, it's superb.