~KnuckleDuster~

Congratulations on your retirement. Plenty of time to spend with the Z now. Looks like Colorado.

Thanks!

I was hoping to find a loose solder joint on any of the three connector points but they all appear solid with a screwdriver wiggle test. I suppose their could be hairline cracks still. I'm thinking all the corrosion isn't good for it, even the board has an odd residue on it.

This could be the issue right here. Corrosion all up on the contacts & solder joints..

Haha thank you. Your feedback is much appreciated, definitely helps keep me motivated. I've been slacking on the video making because the car has been down on power for a while now and when I have time with the car it's been troubleshooting and tuning. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of it. Just recently the car developed a hot start issue followed by power cut during hard acceleration in 5th gear and progressing down into 3rd. It's got all the symptoms of a bad/leaky injector(s) so the injectors & rail are being sent out to DeatschWerks for their Dynamic Injector Service & Fuel Rail Service. Hopefully my next post is reporting the car is running 110%..fingers crossed.

They have two guys working there is the problem. I live a few miles away, have gone there in person with some ideas on some work I'd like to do on my RB and exchanged a couple emails but in the end communication drops off and they just don't seem interested. I believe they get swamped with motor swaps which yields them the most $ and everything else gets put on the back burner.

I also had to re-install the rear passenger fender flare. Previous owner had installed this one a bit lower than the other side. This was always playing tricks on me when I was adjusting the ride height, the car itself would be level but the right rear would always appear lower. Now the suspension height to wheel gap is just about spot on, I could even lower the rear a pinch now but I kind of like it how it is now. Never rubs.

Skillard front grill with bumper delete plates. Also paint matched the air dam finally.

Face lift is underway.

Bringing the Z back from the dead! It's been a year since my last post. Life's been busy and I considered selling the Z at one point, came close but decided to hold onto it. I recently got a Gopro 7 black so I'm looking forward to making some more videos of the Z in 4K. 🤙

Not yet. I’m waiting for a new tps to arrive then I’ll be able to take it for a long drive and see if it’s still happening.

The pre filter was a little dirty but didn’t have any chunks of debris stuck in it. The vent line is using the smaller oem fuel hardline that runs to the front of the engine bay on the passenger side. Pretty sure it’s venting. After a whining drive session I opened the gas cap not long after shutting it down and there was hardly any pressure built up.

Hey guys I need some help with my fuel line routing. I've read quite a bit on what should go where but it gets confusing with so many different set-ups people run and how they choose to route things. Not a lot of diagrams out there either, without seeing it I gets confused. So my issue is after a long 45 min+ drive the fuel pump is humming pretty darn loud. If I shut the car off and turn it back on the hum is still there. I have a mesh filter pre fuel pump which I need to open up and investigate still to make sure there's no blockages. I drew out my fuel line routing because I don't think this is how it should be. I know my feed and return is fine but is what I have blocked off ok or should something be switched around?

So ever since I did the rear maxima disc brake swap there has been a slight leak at the bleeders after a hard drive. I'll noticed a handful of drips on the inside of my wheels. I've tightened the bleeders up as tight as possible but there still weeping occasionally. Did anyone have this issue with theirs?

same here