roger280zx
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Posts posted by roger280zx
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Love the swing out door bars. Love!
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There is an s30 on CL here in GA with a complete C4 suspension underneath it, wheels, brakes, the whole 9. Fresh paint too, last time I saw it it was listed for $800. It does look like a jeep though, WAY up in the air, but if you had to have that suspension then I guess you have to have it.
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Ford.
Do a google search for '4 lug cobra wheels'
The 5 lug original version is the Mustang Cobra R wheels
It's definatly not Ford. Ford made the Cobra R that every one copies. Ford did not make one in 4 lug. Beware the Ford 4 lug is NOT the same as Datsun and most of the replicas weight like 30-40 lbs.
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Check the wheel thread, 70 or 80 some odd pages of wheels on z's, much of which are 16-17's.
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How much did the swap cost?
She hasn't posted in over three years, and besides the cost of V8 swaps is more than well documented on this site and others. Do some research.
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That cam is nearly too much for stock injectors/ecu WITHOUT a turbo.
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You should really open up the exhaust then. That is the absolute best mod for a turbo car IMO.
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Off topic, but I would not go 5K between oil changes on an L28et even with Mobil 1. Use a good filter and change oil it often. Back to the topic... 3800 is aufully late for a stock T3 to start building boost. The threshold is the rpm where the intake becomes "charged" or pressurized. For example, my t3/t4 makes 2-3 psi in 4th gear at 2000 rpm, full boost (9.5 psi) by 2500. This is on a completely stock L28et with crimped 2" intercooler piping and a mkIII supra intercooler 2.5" crimped DP and 3" crimped exhaust, no cat and straight through muffler. It is however 30* or more before the boost hits, then tapering off as the boost comes on.
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Thats because its six years old.
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If I was in AZ I'd give a grand just to get all the parts + good engine ect., then I'd buy a less complete rust free shell for peanuts and build a nice car from the two of them.
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What I was trying to say is; since the LS headers for the tight engine bay in a Nova II nearly fit his 240z out of the box, then it is posible the SBC header for the same application MIGHT work. I'm fully aware the LS header is not adaptable to a SBC. Me thinks engine A for chassis X will fit (albeit slighty modified), then maybe engine B for chassis X could work as well. Hopefully that is more clear.
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Decals are cheaper and lighter
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Yep, RB to s130 is pretty strait forward. And pat1 is the man with the pan! Hey Pat, you should build a baffled pan for L28 280zx, as I think I'll be oil starved in the corners... my appologies for the thread jack.
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Technically you could call my 330/620 on a 14j a stretch, but the Avons were designed for 14-16 so I guess I'm on the small side of stretch. I digress...
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Hypebeast indeed. Im going to take them off in a bit. I feel like a loser Honda guy who thinks a bike rack is jdm.
ROFLMAO I'm into Honda's (and vdubs) from way back. I even admired the cleverness of the first FEW hype stickers I saw on imports, but now I think they're almost as played out as stretched tires.
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...im running rich at the moment?
Welcome to turbo cars... get a wide band.
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A local guy put an Ls7 in a 240z with a slightly modified set of Kook's 1 7/8 that where for a Ls-Chevy II swap. Not sure if that helps, but I thought the Chevy II's just might work out of the box... since they are totally different exhaust port lay out and you might even go 1 3/4. But then again they could be way the hell off. I would call it worth looking into.
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+1 for Rotella T. I got a look inside my friends stock 350 in his 3500 4x4 Suburban, the trucks 345K miles had all been on Rotella T. This guys a Diesel tech and had used the Rotella since the truck was new, he swears by it. Hands down the cleanest interior of any high mileage truck engine I've ever seen. He inspected everything and put it back together. The next week he packed his family and drove from Atlanta to California all on NO rebuild. I figure if it does that AND keeps a lot of high performance high boost high mile diesels together its good enough for my punny L28et. Not the most scientific of reasons and I don't even have a picture of it but it is why I run it.
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^^I agree. I have always admired your zx from your sig pic, and maybe one or two others I've seen. Do you have a bumper in there? I can't tell with the absent signal lamps. I usually prefer the earlier bumpers, the ones without the extentions, but damn this one looks nice and clean.
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Still looking, I have one.
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+1 for acetone, it has an incredible ability to "lift" paint from even other painted surfaces. Depending on how long it has been there, the quality of paint, and the conditions in wich it cured the next step I would recomend is this; Soak a cotten rag in laquer thinner, lay the rag on the surface to be stripped, allow it to sit for a few minutes, scrub area vigorously, repeat. It is more labor intensive than the strippers, but it will have less effect on the underlying coating. I know, chrome is hard... Damn hard, but old chrome can be affected by some stripping agents. And I'll disclose that I remove painted stripes vinyl and general gunk from both fresh and aged paint often using this method with the only downside being you will scratch the painted surface below, and some vehicles cure too well to remove by this method. I don't think you need to worry about the chrome this way, and since its harder than paint it should lift right off. This is how I will be removing the paint from the rear bumper on my '79. Let us know how it works for you.
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What are your power and performance goals? For the money you would spend swapping and modifying a vh or lt1 you can pretty easily achieve 400-450 whp with gobs (likely more than either v8) of torque. For a bit more money 500-600 whp are not at all out of reach. If I had a z32 gearbox and MS I'd be getting a NEW precision turbo for $650-900, a NEW greddy or equivalent FMIC for $400, injectors $250-350 and put some time in your tune and I don't think you'de be disapointed any more. If you have the fab capabilities you could make/modify the intake mani cheaply... and there is a lot of power to be had there. So for $1-$2k you have 400+ hp and only modify a few parts which is much less time consuming than a motor swap IMO. If you HAVE to have 4 digit hp the l6 is not the right platform, but for fast, streetable, trackable hp these little engines are often underestimated. I know it isn't the answer your after, but I'm a big proponent of keeping the car on the road as much as posible. So I guess to answer your question directly the LT1 is a cool engine, but the VH is lightyears ahead of it from a performace standpoint, and if its about cost per dollar the LS annihilates both of them. But I'm not a V8-Z guy anyway, and if I thought I needed 1k+ hp it would be with a 2j, but it would be useless for anything under 130mph that wasn't sitting still on a dyno. This is all just my slanted and biased opinion.
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I am in the process of procuring an r200, if it is up and going quick enough we can work something out on my 180 axles. Not sure what kind of hurry you're in but there may be a rust issue I have to address first, if so it will take me a little longer. I wonder if the maxima cv's would work. I can usually hunt one of those down. PM me if nothing else comes up for ya.
Boost threshold and cam questions.
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
Zmanco, do you think that has to do with his slow spooling? Do you think he's spooling slowly due to detonation? Seems to me 3800 is a little low for peak torque given his cam. If he does have stock exhaust I think that has more to do with the slow spooling than the above the curve timing. When my car had a 3" cat it spooled much slower than the 3" open, I can only imagine the stock 2" or 2 1/4" or whatever the factory cat is as the 3" is my only experience. If it were my ride and cam instalation and timing proved to be correct I would next focus on opening up the exhaust.