roger280zx
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Posts posted by roger280zx
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Yahoo images search "Nismo header 240z" 4th pic. I hope you didn't get ripped off.
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I recently bought a header to remove smog ports, air pump, and a nice sound and maybe a little performance gain. The seller claimed it was a nissan Comp header, so I bought it even if it isnt a Nissan Comp, I got a good price on it. The header has slight surface rust and its actual coating is chrome and the Header tubes are really thick. They are thicker than the MSA. How can I identify if its Nissan Comp or something else.
Here are some pics. Hope you guys can help me ID the header.
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I have all of the above, not interested in trading for the engine, but other trades considered. Cash prefered. I may have some business in SC soon so we could meet up and swap. I'll give you a call soon.
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A 255/45/17 is far from a stretch on a 9.5. They will also be lighter and easier to manuever through parking lots and other slow speed situations than a 275. Continental has a 265 that is nice aswell.
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I'll show some love for the local boys.
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I came across a 4g63 head a while ago on a friends bench. It had very minimal work in it and might I say this is a very good head indeed. It kind of made me want to put one in a z, especially when I heard you can get some decent displacement under one. I will be following this one, looking forward to seeing it come together. It looks great so far!
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Let me dig into my parts pile and see if I still have that one. I know I did at one time, call me tomorrow to remind me.
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Im sorry you dont understand. Shakotan is a term for a type of enthusiast as well as a style, and I meant shark nose. If you want to discredit people in the industry that do this in favor of your amateur hobby opinion, no skin off my nose. I guess the real answer will come after the pipe dream phase.
Funny thing is I'm also from (near) Atlanta and as soon as I saw the pics of the s13's in the first post I thought "Oh God, please don't let those hellaflush fanboyz be infiltrating my beloved forum". Not another 240atlanta, please not again!
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Meister, you're points are well taken. You obviously know what you're talking about (see above wheels up sig pic), but this is hybridz... where there is no best and the title reads "How much power is actually needed?". I am sure that a very mild inexpensive to build 541ci caddy would do it with ease. Hell, a cheap turbo L would do it fairly easily, but the o.p. didn't ask what those would run or what it would run granny shifting at 4500. If I had to amend his set up it would be the gears. I think a 327 needs more than a 3.54 gear, or more torque (read power adder) to run that number, but that is just me. I would build as much engine as the budget allows and see what she runs.
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I have some axles from an 83 if that is what you're looking for. The thread is kinda confusing.
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Dad's old '55 chevy went 12.02 at 117. That was a 283 (.060 over) that turned an engine dyno to 498 hp, the other two just weren't there. He he. Not sure about race weight, but it was an all steel two door wagon, iron heads, 4 speed. I see no reason why a 2500lb car on modern tires (above times where run in the early '80s) could not run a second quicker with the same power. Driving style has a lot to do with E.T.'s and if you build a high winding 327 you will have to beat on it to go fast. It may have great torque and be plenty streetable, but you will have to drive it to hit those numbers. No one ever believed that little 283 would run like it did, but upon riding shotgun to my father slapping the rockcrusher through the gears at 8000+ the opinions would change. I say build it to your budget and see what it runs. If I turn out to be wrong and all these nay sayers are right... then you can spray it!
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Since he welded the cranks anyways, can't you just turn one 90 degrees?
I'm not a rotary guy, but quite simply no. Because rotary engines have no cams, or valves for that matter, the timing is entirely controlled by the position of the ports on the block (excuse me if my terminology is not correct); therefore, just turning the crank will not create the desired effect.
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Where are you putting the battery? I had originally planned on putting the battery in the hatch, but later realized (after I drilled out all the spot welds on the battery tray and yanked it out) that the factory location really makes the most sense, considering most of the weight of the car is already on the rear wheels when you're in the car. Unless I'm mistaken on what I've just said?
The majority of the weight in an s30, or any z for that matter is not over the rear. They are slightly front biased. I feel that most people who concentrate on moving weight rearward, unless dragracing, are mostly just adding weight to the car. Those are some pretty big wires you have to run all the way up to your engine and starter. Me, I'll get the smallest lightest battery I can afford and mount right next to the starter. Yes it is still in front of the firewall, but it weights less than a third of the original battery and is much, much lower. Just my opinion and I'm in no way an expert... come to think of it the o.p. wanted to know what battery, not where so back to the topic.
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I have a 12 pound lawn mower battery. They don't last forever (about two years), but they are $30 at Home Depot/Lowes and they're small enough to mount LOW in the chassis.
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I have a '72 that you could use if you are just mocking up. I would let you use it for the storage (I need it out of where it is) but not if you're gonna completely molest it. I would like to keep an L28 in there so if you can't do it and retain what is necessary for that than no deal. What the hell lets talk about it 678.283.97hundred.
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I have several sets, lets make a deal. Pm me
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Bloz up, any reason you spaced the intercooler soooooooo far from your radiator? You are generating alot of turbulance in between them and that hurts the efficiency of BOTH systems. I bet if the intercooler was placed properly you would not need that push fan in there. Just my .02
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Find someone local to cut down on turnaround time.
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I have an L28ET I'd love to sell, it is a little far though. If you can't find one local we might be able to work out shipping. PM if nothing else turns up for you, this thing is just getting in my way in the garage.
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You know you own a datsun when you get asked if it has a v8 because your l28 is running incorrectly...
You know you owna datsun when you'd rather drive it to school than the new tundra you just bought... (truth, happend 3 years ago when the z was stock)
Or when you live in GA everone assumes it has a v8 because that is what the one their cousin drove had in it. Don't even get me started. They either think it is a porsche "Porsh" or they know it is a z and automatically assume v8.
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.. AND you won't finish it to buy a "Miata, S13, S14, Datsun 510, 620, E30 BMW, FB or FC RX7, Porsche 944, or something of that nature."
Yuck! Traitor!
You know you own a datsun when.. you read an add like this and imediately begin searching for cheap E30's, 944's, Rx7's and the like so you can "trade up".
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So diameter and width don't matter? Only offset. In that case I have a set of four; lightweight 15x10, zero offset, $450, no tires.
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The price has been raised by $110!
What the..? Still a sweeeet price if you campare to the real deal...This is a NEW wheel, not a price hike on the old RB. Let's get back to the pic's!
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1st on wheels and the BHJ damper, pm'd and called. Same day cash in hand pick up.
Nissan Comp Header ID *pics*
in Exhaust
Posted
They may have, I have never owned one and have only seen one (off of car) a half dozen times or so. The one you have there sertainly does not look like Nismo to me though.