roger280zx
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Posts posted by roger280zx
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thx for the info is the 2jz worth getting over the 1jz i mean it just would seem dumb not too if its would be that small of a price difference
Welcome to Hybridz jake. I advise you to spend a little time hunting around this site before you start making eronious posts (see above) that have such poor gramar and spelling that they are difficult to understand. You don't need perfect english around here but you do need to make an effort.
As far as what is a "dumb" swap I would say that goes back to the old phrase of "there is no best". I guess you would think some members here who spend tens of thousands of dollars developing L6's which would likely not compete with a stock JZ of any denomination are dumb. Dumb because of the price difference right? Jake do yourself and all the other members a favor and read our rules and do your own research. Once the research is done you will be able to draw your own conclusion on this and many future projects. Thanks
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Somehow I knew you could answer this one johnc. How does that compare to the s30?
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Why not just get a manual rack? Better ratios, lighter weight, bolt on swap. I see no reason to use the power rack with out assist, but what do I know give it a shot.
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That makes me want to go dirt track racing!
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I have one in Georgia! Shoot me a pm if interested.
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I have been talking to these guys for a while, was trying to set up a north american distribution for them. I think they really know there stuff. Hundreds of other cars have been made including mini's, peugeot's, and many others. Countless boats and all kinds of stuff so I believe they know what they are doing. They have been around a really long time. If several people stateside get together the combined shipping cost would be greatly reduced. I say we give em a try!
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Check this out: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/38251-complete-differential-list-need-help/
Especially post #61 (page 4). It looks like you can hunt down a 4.9:1 r200 lsd. Good luck and keep us posted!
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It doesn't look like he used them, but you'de be better off with a pm anyway; seeing as how the thread is over six years old.
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Or for about 100 bucks you can have a 24# fly wheel lightened and balanced down to 17# while removing weight from the furthest point from center. Better acceleration, better balance, more meat for the clutch to munch on, close to the same cost, better deal if you ask me. But hey if you want to run the maxima unit go ahead and let us all know how it works out!
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http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valvetrain/springs/index.htm
Hope this helps, I searched like hell for it;)
P.S.
Did you see my wife on the 10:00 news?
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For what it is worth I know some old aircraft guys who spend tens of thousands of dollars having lower profile rounded rivets installed to hold on there body work. Some of them claim up to 50% improved fuel economy. Granted they have thousands of rivets and we have 8-10 pins, just food for thought.
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Congratulations! See you at the Mitty.
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I wonder if they still honor those prices?
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Thats a deal!
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That kind of power rise in that little rpm is 'not' a good thing. The days of the on-off power switch have long been gone. Proper sizing of the Turbo will give you a N/A style linear drivability. It might be nice to feel it, but it's a bit of a handfull when doing technical driving.
Like the Pontiac ad says "wider is better"---this goes for boost margin, peaky engines are not the most practical. Might be fun, but power under the curve is better.
Didn't Pontiac also say "ribbed for her pleasure"? I mean that is what all the plastic body cladding was about in the '90s, right?
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I thought it was typo, I'd just hate some noob to read this and go straight out and turn his controller up to 3.04 bar "cause the guys on hybridz said it would do it". That could get ugly fast. Now back to the topic, I LOVE the BW's too btw. LOVE!
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Deleted double post.
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For those wondering 30 psi is 3.04 bar
Actually 3.04 bar = 44.688 psi, NOT 30. 30 psi is closer to 2 bar.
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www.bellintercoolers.com
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Officialy jacked!
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Well, I would say your tire choice and size could be causing some of your problems. I would suggest a 225/60/14 until you decide to pony up for bigger wheels. The other issue at play (literally) could be the needle bearings in the steering column u-joints. If you have a bad joint, the car will feel very sloppy. Also ditto on the rear mount sway bar...the fromt mount ones really do suck
I think that 225's are too wide for 6" wheels. Maybe okay for 7"s but with 6" wheels I'd have 205 60s. They work very well. Just my .02
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No, its not a steal because they sell every day for that price in 15x6 or 15x7, the baby sizes as i like to call them. They are SSR xr-4 Starsharks the big boy sizes are the expensive ones like the type 9j in 15x9 -20 and 9.5 -25 for about 1500-1700 a PAIR or 15x10 -40 for 1200 a PAIR. Remember folks thats only 2 wheels so youre looking at 2500-3500 for a full set of 4 all one size or staggered.
What is a steal is when a full set goes for 1500 or less, which is very unlikely and you are very lucky if you can find them for that. Ive looked for a few years and only one set i know of meet that criteria, and they werent MINT (Like i want). Your best bet is the RBR group buy....although im looking at other options =)
Not starsharks. These are SSR MK III's. I paid 700 for mine, but they where local and in great shape. 14x7 btw
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I guess that simplifies it a bit. Please forgive my ranting but I was in a partial tryptophan coma and desperatly needed sleep. I was just happy to get up this morning and see my post actually made sense. Gotta love the bottomless Brazilian grills! Back to the wheel debate.
Oh yeah, "simplify and add lightness".
WTB: 280ZXT CV axles
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I know that JSM is good for it, but if something happend I have a set as well. They are ready to go.