roger280zx
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Posts posted by roger280zx
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Why focus on a psi number? I just don't understand turbo guys focusing on a specific psi. Tune the engine and the boost pressure together to get the most performance while keeping the engine out of detonation. It doesn't matter if the boost psi number is 10 or 20, your engine will perform the best at some combination of tune and boost pressure. Turing the boost up or down from that optimal setting to achieve some Internet Approved number is foolish.
Tune the frickin' engine!
As usual good sound engine advice from a guy who says "I'm not an engine guy". As Johnc and others have said, turbo engines are all about the tune. Keep the AFR right, the air cool, and detonation at bay. Other variables (like boost pressure) are just that, variables. Power is in the TUNE. Longevity is in the TUNE. Economy is in the TUNE. Take your time boosting it up and it should be a very fun engine for a long time.
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Why don't the yards in my neck of the woods have wide body gnosed rides? WTF! The only wide fender Z I've seen in the yard was so incredibly rotten I didn't even consider it. Ok maybe I did, a little, but only because it was a '70.
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Or use a Mercedes style clutch to (basically) turn the supercharger on and off. They have been doing it for years and it really helps the economy/longevity of the engine. A few guys have adapted the M45 clutches to M62 and M90 eatons. I'm sure you could use it on a centrifigul; though, if thats what floats your boat.
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Wow! It looks like I'm really expensive. Arnz shoot me a pm if you have anything to trade. Since we are local I'm sure we can work something out. I have no use for the hubcaps, the price just reflects my time of driving to the storage unit digging them out and shipping them. I'm sure we can make a deal!
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I have a full set of 280z hub caps I'd let go for $50.
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What makes you think it's the turbo? If it is just slow spool and backfiring there are many places those issues can come from. Look at your timing and check for any boost leaks (if you haven't already). If everything else is fine and you DO need a turbo consider this; http://www.bullseyepower.com/S200.asp
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I'll ask around. What part of town are you in?
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Did you check the crank journals? I have an L24E with 133mm rods; however, the rod journals are smaller than the z stuff (read will not fit the 240, 260, 280 crank). Nevertheless very good information and thank you for starting the topic. And could you please weight a flat top piston? It would be nice to have it done on the same scale for reference.
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You can still get plenty of slicks in 14in sizes. I would recomend 205, but you may like 225 better. I'm sticking with 205/55/14 on my 14x7 ssr's.
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And they will KILL the Camaro yet again.
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201 hp, 198 ft.lb. If the air is the same.
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Location?
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It's really not that big of a deal. My father and some friends put a 327 in a 911 in like 1977, but there was no internet so not everyone knew about it as soon as it happend;) Anyway, I can't see spending $25 grand on ANYTHING with a TPI in it. And I agree with DavyZ; a small block chevy swap doesn't realy add monetary value to anything (here we go). It does; however, make tunning and/or replacing the engine very cheap and easy for almost anyone. Now have you seen this:
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Off of his race car... read the first post.
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Acording to wiki it was 1100 cu in!!!!! Thats 18.025 liters.
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If you are only after cruising efficiencey I would not add ballast. It is great for high speed traction and stability, as Tonyd's experience suggests, but for up and down shifting accel/deccel around town driving its not good. There is a reason s30 ls1 cars get amazing mileage numbers eventhough their corvette counterparts have much better aero. The reason is weight. Lugging extra weight around town kills mileage. I am assuming by "maximize efficiency when simply cursing around" you mean mileage.
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Its just the capitalist in me. All I saw was n47. Have to be more carefull.
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I have a really nice one, new valve job and so on. $200 plus shipping takes it.
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Recieved, I am working on making an excuse to get up there later this week;)
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I have a 3.9 r200. I can meet you somewhere. $150
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I haven't seen too many of these out there and I was just wondering what some people here think that an L28E out of a 280Z could bring?
Most of the ones that I have seen for sale are the turbo motors, and I haven't seen a non-turbo yet.
Just wanting some input as I'm getting ready to sell mine and I want to know what they could go for.
Probably less than all the turbo engines you've seen selling.
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With all the success of Audi & Puegot in the 24hrs of LeMans I would love to take a complete Maxima diesel setup and put it in a z car and then give it to Gene Banks as a challenge to turn it into a screamer like he has done with so many other diesel motors/cars. His Banks Performance team has resources to solve a lot of the issues that seem to arise from this discussion and he always seems to take these challenges personal and does not like failure.
Tom
Instead of giving it to Gene Banks..?.. Why not just apply the theories and practices of Gale Banks to an LD. He is not secretive about the overall theory of building high power diesels. He says they build race enginges the same way every one else does; by moving the power band higher. He showed some examples where they where removing pounds from a piston and pin assembly! When peak torque is at 3800 or 4800 instead of 1800 you don't need a piston pin that looks like it should be rifled and used in anti-aircraft artillery. It is still a recipricating air pump that burns a fuel. Make it move more air and spin higher and you will get the results you are looking for. I would say the only hard part to acheiving massive LD power would be the injection pump and maybe the cam. Both can be figured out with a little tuning though.
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Very good information. I guess I have something to do with 4x8 sheet of 16ga I purchased a while back.
Anyone know norm(The 12 sec Dual SU Dude)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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If you search his old posts (most were 6-8 years ago) at zcar.com you can find alot of info. The engine was a stroker with L28 rods and pistons. At one point he shaved .072" off of the pistons by hand using emory cloth and counting the passes. It allowed him to only run one felpro gasket intead of two, but the ringlands melted away in a matter of months and he went back to the old settup. Check him out though; he had alot of good budget oriented modifacations that can work well, especially when not taken to extremes.