piston

i was thinking it cant be the plugs because it sat for a while and #5 fires later, the #2-8 fired first, im sure its not the plugs. the plugs are ac delco oem plugs. like everyone says, i agree it might be the injectors cause i pulled #3 plug and it was dry. but who knows, ill look into it today after work and keep it updated.

i think the jtr tranny mount it made spacific for the turbo 350 and 400 trannies isnt it?

when i did my conversion. i took out everything connected to the stock motor and pulled it all out. all the connectors on the harness that goes on the side of the driver side frame rail needs to be cut up also and take out everything that use to be connected to the stock motor except water temp and oil pressure wire. you can redo the new wires for the alternator and starter or use the old ones. cut open the stock sbc harness and get a wiring diagram or search online to trace the wires to which ever pins its use for and which ever ones you dont need on the computer. make sure you dont need it before you cut it or delete it out of your harness. since you will be running a carb on the fi engine, i dont know how that works but for sure some reprogramming will be required.

for now, im going to try the tapping method and some lucas fuel injector cleaners. if it doesnt work, then ill take em off and soak em if it doesnt work either, ill get a new set. im trying to avoid getting a new set right now since im running broke. still need to install the tranny mount and short/balance the shaft. im sure its not the wiring since they all share the same pink wire and at least one injector works on each side.

i finally got around putting some fuel into my lt1 swap z and wired up the alternator and tach and only two pistons are working? how is this? i havent got around into checking everything out but maybe someone can get me some head start on what it can be. only pistons 2,5 and 8 are working but the car fires up and starts. this is weired because first, only 2 and 8 was working and the engine had a hard time starting. after half way into typing this thread, number 5 works and hour later. i didnt do anything and piston 5 fires up out of nowhere. and im still trying to figure out what the deal is. the exhaust runners for 2,5 and 8 are hot but the rest is cool. could it be the opti spark? whats the chances of the rest of the injectors failing? bad wires? but i have spark on the wires. ( screw driver inside wire into plug wire trick) my plug wires are hooked up correctly. it cant be the plugs, i got fuel pressure, got oil pressure and it everything seems to be good. it just doesnt make any since to have the engine running and only runners 2,5 and 8 are hot. the engine ran for more than a minute already and only operated by 3 piston! can someone explain this in advance since it doesnt make much sense to me. i checked the wires and they do have spark. man, im not even mad at this problem instead i have the biggest smile on the face of earth just hearing the engine fired up for the first time. it sound so sick when i rev it, but still hesitates cause only 3 pistons are firing. i know the smile will go away when i get stuck and cant find what the prob is, but i look forward to you hybird experts to pitch in your thoughts. thanks..

im suprised at how everything looks. ive been working on this for almost a year now. the headers are ebay stuff for now. there the regular block huggers on ebay. im just using it for now, im going to go single turbo in time but i just need to get the thing running real nice first for now and able drive around. the t56 build was pretty tuff, but way easier to me then doing the harness. i have way more pics i would like to show you guys but still learning to resize them to have enough room for more pics in my file. i have plenty of interesting pics for new hybrid commers.

i havent gotton a chance to fired it up yet, i still have to hook up a couple more wires and still waiting to pick up my trans mount. picking it up this weekend. its getting to cold around here to be in the garage after work. although i did crank it without fuel to see if itll turn and it does. man, it rumbles real nice when i crank it. im still hoping all the wiring is done correctly. i spent so much time into this to make everything nice and clean. it should fire right up. i just need my trans mount and add fuel and croos fingers.

whats up everyone! first off, thanks to everyone here on this forum who has helped me and anser many of my questiones in the past and finally after all these annoying questions i emailed to members regaurding this swap, all the searching and replies from brothers like you guys, i finally got some time off out the garage to show off some lt1 v8 swap skills ive learned from this very useful and cool site. heres a little info on the swap. engine... 94 lt1 caprice motor unfortuantly stock iron head, cheap ported lt4 hot cam/springs and 1.6rr no ac/ps or any other emissions.. custom wiring harness (by me) fully traced out and delete at least 45% of wiring. all reloomed and labeled. using stock oil cooler, also mounted in front. t56 from 95 trans am, rebuilt with new 1-2 and 3-4 gears, all new syncros, blocker rings and brass key inserts, also has a new steel 3-4 shift fork. also rebuilt by me!#1 everything done to this vehicle and engine is done by me in my garage and all rebuilt from top bottom thanks to all you helpful peeps. hopefully my pics will inspire someone to go with this route like how your guys pics inspired me to run the lt1 swap. feel free to ask questions...feedbacks welcome. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=740

what engine? it should be in the back of the engine after intake manifold..for a v8..

1,500 for a complete car i think if a good and fair price depending on where you live. the car itself has everything you need for the swap including stock relay boxes. wiring and anything else you can use. buying a motor itself can be cheap but most times, it wont come with what you need like complete uncut harness or oil cooler lines which the caprice had and stuff usable like i mentioned, relay boxes and etc... after buying all that, prices jump back up to more then 1,500 gathering parts itself.

ill just grab the vette shaft and test fit the yolk. if it fits, im good to go, not need to replace anything just short and balance. the price i paid for the camaro shaft was 100.00. the vette is only 30.00. why buy i long shaft when i can work with 27inch of shaft!

so i would have to change the end on the shaft to make it work? as in changing it to use a differnt u joint? the joint on the shaft from the 84-96 vette uses the same u joint as the jtr flange (1310). im just curiouse if the yolk will go in is my main concern. and will 24inch be enough to still be able to shorten cause i dont want to get a shaft to find out i need to extend it instead of shorting it.

so i guess noone knows?

yeah, like wheelman mentioned. i did the swap myself. the harness was a PITA. but i got it to the point where everything looks stock. i can say about 50% of the harness has been deleted out and reloomed. looks brand new with only the wires i need to run the engine. ther is 2 engines in this year caprice. the 4.3 and the 5.7. both the engine to me, looks idelticle. only the green hoses and 5.7l on the back of the block told the difference. for fuel ecomomy wise and cheap reliable, you cant go wrong with the lt1. its cheap, fuel injeted and saves gas compare to carburated engine and still able to make some sick horsepower with the right tunning and cams.

i was wondering if anyone knows if i can use the 84-96 vette aluminum driveshaft for my swap? auto or manual different? im running the t56 from a 95 firbird and was wondering if it has the same splines? my differential is a r200. how many inches are you guys shortening your shafts too with the t56 r200 combo? the shaft itself looks very short, maybe 24" from ujoint to ujoint from the looks? let me know cause ill rather use it if it works since i can get an aluminum one for way cheaper and it already has the 1310 ujoints the jtr diff flange uses.

i just thought itll be cool to have the safc sitting on the dash...im going to use tuner cat to tune it eventually. i was just wondering if it was possible for the safc to work on the lt/ls engine. i already have the safc sitting here, might sell it anyways. i might just hook it off the map sensor wire to see if itll work anyways. all for loks only. thanks.

ive been looking around on other sites regarding the installation of the apexi safc on the lt1/ls1. according to them, the maf on the ls and lts wont throw the right signal for the safc to be able to tune the car or even work with the engine. but then i come across to see that alot of the misubishi guys runs the ls1/lt1 maf as an upgrade and still able to use the apexi safc? has anyone here themself or know of anyone who has sucessfully installed an apexi safc onto an lt1 or ls1 pcm and have it to funtion properly? i ask the question because i have on laying around from my old project and thought it might be cool to use it to control my fuel curves on the lt1. the signals and all looks like it would work but the maf signal seems to be too much for the safc to calculate. i heard someone mention it would need a maf translator to make it work. what is that? let me know what you guys know!!!

yes napa has the rocker studs in stock or can order them depending on the aplication. im looking at it right now at work. yeah, i work at napa. $1.49, $2.49 to $3.49 each depending on how many sizes up like .003 or .006 oversize. im looking at it under 70 camaro 5.7 350.