piston

I'm using sc300 rear sump. just tap it for oil return.

I run a cheap ass eBay eclutch master stage3 unsprung clutch. I think I paid somewhere about $200? and it's holds power fine for now. Made 503hp and 509tq at 16.5psi. But I don't drive it everyday and currently detuned to mid 400hp.

-4 fuel return is crazy small. Looking good though!

Honestly I wouldn't even replaced the bearings etc if the motor is low mileage and ran great before pull. Some may disagree but IMO spend that money on other parts to support the power or braking, suspension etc.

Running a r200 open diff w/ 3.54 gearing. Z31 cv axles.

I would imagine it would clear as long as you mount the engine same distance from firewall as the 7m. I didn't have any issue with the 1jz bell housing rubbing anything. I also don't recall beating the trans tunnel to clear the bell housing either however I beat a few spots for the trans itself. But you shouldn't have a problem since you already fitted that trans in the tunnel.

I haven't actually compared the two yet. however you can always swap the top shifter assembly from the original w58 to the r154 when upgrading and it should fit. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Overkillz, you blew your motor? I'm going to try for 16psi. 1.5psi more shouldn't be a big effect in melting pistons since it ran smoothly at 14.5psi. I'll be happy with 450hp on pump!!!

I looked into the emanate blue but a lot of guys seem to not like it on their supras. I got the map Ecu working Nd running really good, I like the features and ease of tuning.

Dyno a few runs to see what she makes.

Ran it in Sacramento the other night! First pass I did 12.1 @117mph. Clutch was slipping and was on 12-13psi of boost. just how it was the last time I dynoed. got there, tech, staged and ran! Second run, I didn't get a good run and broke out since my clutch had already slipped from the first run. Easily could have gone into 11s with a few more practice runs if my clutch had not slip. 3-4 more psi, and a stg3 clutch & I should be into the low 11s. E85 18-19psi with 26" slicks and welded diff and I should be way into the 10s easily. It's a great feeling the Z has potential and easy power!

Just dyno it the other day. Put down 428hp @14psi 91 pump gas. Not bad but I know my stock yota clutch is hanging on a thread besides that, I'll go up to 16psi pump and should be close to 500 easy with a race clutch. However I turned the boost back down to 12-13psi for street since I can't use any power over 400 on the street without breaking loose.

Forgot to mention when I said it wont clear, I meant to say the hood will interfere because of the over valve cover intake manifold the Ge has.

I got my engine for 500$, rip it open, threw in some arp head studs and a mhg.. I see the jzge motors go for just as much as the 1jz recently. My cross member is not from betamotorsports, I built it but basically the same design, I want to say it sits the engine Lower than the beta mount. I keep hearing people say that the beta mount will not clear the n/a engine and you will have to use a front face intake manifold. Not confirm yet though. As far as transmission, I'm using the r154 trans.

I thought about going 1jz too but I ended up going na-t because I hate to rip off the turbo and upgrade, figure 2jz na-t was the way plus not many have na-ts in their Z's. Also the 2jz n/a are so cheap. however, lately it seems like people want $$$ for na 2jz now. 1jz will fly in one of these old datsuns, all you really need is 300plus and it pulls harder than hell! Its actually scary because these light cars, you can feel the power and speed unlike a modern car where you can barely feel power because suspension etc is so smooth.

Thanks guys, will be dynoing and hope to get some vids of that too. Hoping for 400hp/plus at 15psi 91 pump which I want to say shouldnt be a problem. But I can settle for 13psi on the streets because it's a handful to drive at wot.

The yota l6 section seems kinda dead!!! Whats the deal?

Your question is very simple, if you don't plan to race or drift, the brakes will be fine as its design to stop the car for regular driving. But it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and slap on some yota 4 pistons and upgrade master cylinder for insurance. Same goes to the diff, it wont brake unless you are racing or drifting or burn out of some sort, that's assuming you have sticky tires. Just my thought.

The fittings will fit from the 15/16 master cylinder to the wilwood! I almost want to say and z fittings will fit into the wilwood master cylinder for f and r lines. I did not reinstall my check valves and left them off. After a few miles driving my brake pedal is now stiffer and feels great! Weird but I guess minor bubbles made its way out or up? Who knows, it feels great now minus check valves.

Got the mapecu2 running and street tuned to run on 12psi at 11.5-12.0 afr. This thing hauls. I'm still on stock clutch and I hope it will hold some freeway pulls. I dont launch and never tried it since my 1st gear is useless. Just picked up a go pro hero2 motorsport camera so definitely will have tonedsof vids soon.

Change the pulley?

Forgot to mention my flare ends are pretty much doomed now and leaking so I will have to replace that soon as it has a very minor leak. I am considering reinstalling the check valves from the 280zx mc since they look identical and my wilwood only came with rear check valve.

I just opened up my oem nabco 15/16 mc and both f and r had check valves. Opened up the wilwood mc and only r has check valve. Can anyone confirm leaving them in or out works? I have a soft pedal now with both check valves removed.