piston

yeah, i traced the wire and one leads to lho2 and one to rho2. i can double check later. i also had that in mind that all the wires i think goes to the firwall actuall goes to the relay box but since they cut it off so short, it look slike it goes along with the harness into the firewall. i took out the oil pressure sender switch since ill be using an aftermarket oil gauge. i have the injector wire labled already. so this is the wire to the injector relay correct. then the ignition feeds goes to the ignition feed or hot! sorry to ask the same question over and over but which wire do i actually only need to wire up. someone told me that i only need just 5 wires running to the firewall to be wired up to make the lt1 run, which wires are these to be exact?

yeah, i was looking at that site for the longest time but not sure on what they mean by pug c100 and stuff. i thought it was by colors? that kinda confused me for a bit. the two pink wires from the o2 sensors leads somewhere if not firewall but its cut off along with the harness where it leads to the firewall. i dont have a fuse box since i only bought the motor and harness. alot of the wires i did trace leading to be cut off along with the harness like i said, leading to the firwall. ill go home in a bit let you guys know which wires am talking about since i have the labled already. thers gotta be at least 4 or 5 ignition feeds and same goes to sensor wires. im sure the harness is very similar to all other lt1 harness. its from a 94 lt1 lc1 cop car if that might make any difference.

are those evo8 seats from the lancer? thats one clean z...

ok, so now i know the knock sensors share one wire to the pcm. now, what wires do i actually use from the ones that goes into the firewall? im assuming the 2 o2 wires that goes to the firewall are constant hot or positive feed wires and the ignition feed also goes to the ignition??? the car itself, 75 280z is fuel injected so i should have the injector relays in. i didnt know the pcm also uses a relay! so if the caprice uses two knock sensors, cant i just get the pcm reprogram since i dont have the pcm yet and planning on to buy a reprogram one anyways? i want to stay away from two knockers if i dont need the other...since im doing my wiring right now and the driver side knock is screwed. i bought the motor with the harness going to the fire wall cut, but i have everything traced and labled ready to loom back up. 40% of the harness has been ripped out already but just still not sure on which wire i need to wire up going to the firewall. thanks for the replies. cant wait to get this thing running at the same time has no time to spare on this project.

ive been doing researched on some old threads and found plenty of helpful info. the thing im not sure of is how do i go about wiring the wires that goes into the firewall. i was wondering if i have to use 2 knock sensors or just one? also, how do i got about wiring in an obd1 port to the harness? where do i wire the alternator connector wires to? it doesnt go to the pcm instead leads to the firewall??? im also asuming all the ingition feed that goes to the firewall goes to the ignition feed on the ignition switch itself? the LH-RH o2s sensors also have two wires that goes into the firewall also, are they just positive wires? cant i just use my stock datsun relays to run fuel/fan/lights etc...??? or would i have to wire in my own ralays for the injectors and stuff? im using a 94 caprice harness. any help would be great....thanks in advance...

i just left my ps pump with the hose disconnected. i tried to gut the ps pump but the retainer clip in the back looks like thers no way its going to come out. unless im doing it wrong?

yes, i like the news...i i guess i should throuw in a walbro 255lhp and say its good to go right! the manufacter isa good name, i prety much recommend walbro for most aplications and plus its only 90bucks a pump especially since the 280z is mounted on the outside, an inline is even cheaper. i was going to go the ls1 rought at one point since i found a complete tank with everything still on it and in it for 50 bucks, but i hate doing the cutting and stuff on my spare tire well. walbro for now.

well, with all the stuff and labor put into his motor, i think for someone with no time but money, its a good deal. i have mine in the stand right now after rebuild, parts, lt4 hotcam and rebuilt t56 with uprades like brass inserts and steel forks and not even a clutch in it yet. im already clost to around 3k. and this is all done by me, not someone paid to do the job. and hell yessss. it took alot of labor to out things together properly and alot of reading, especially putting the t56 together. lets just say, grab a calculater....

that240guy....are you sure you dont mean your slave cylinder or hydrualic line? the throw out bearing is the one that goes on the center of the pressure plate where the clutch fork is hook onto.

so what if i run stock lines with a walbro 255 fuel pump? hp will be at no more than 360hp for the time of being. i know the walbro 255 does bring up the pressure by 3-5psi because i use to run one and will probably be running another one in the z. will it be safe on stock lines since the walbro for sure should supply enough fuel for the lt1.

im in the same process of installing the t56 on the lt1 t56 280z. im hearing alot of guys running the tilton 7/8 master cylinder with the t56. but i still am not able to find me a clutch line to work. either the mcleod fitting or some type of mod to the stock line with a new end welded on like mentioned above. heck, i cant even get a stock clutch line from anywhere.

i was wondering if anyone of you guys run straight 3/8 fuel line without steel braided from the tank to the carb/fuel rail? and also by running the smaller fuel return, im assuming it would bump up the psi on the regulator? just wondering cause im thinking about running 3/8 regular fuel line from tank to fuel rail...

my buddy runs weld rims with only barely 3 inch back space and the lips about 5 inches. hes running the wled star rims. it barely covers the drums from the rear view and drags the car often.

i was hoping for engine pics also...nice work...love the exhaust pipe.....

its a 3 piece like the ssr reverse meshes. i dont know how to work the pics yet so i can only explain. the center piece comes off after removing all the nuts and bolts and it can can be fliped around to mount on either side. the question is, i just want to know is it safe to run a 2 inch lip on the inside?

wheres the engine pics nazar??? show me the money!!!!!

i have a set of rare dynalite 3 piece meshes similar to the ssr reverse mesh style. the rims are 16x8 suposebly, but looks to be like 16x7s to me. anyways, the outter lip is about 2 1/4 inches and about 4 1/2 or 5" on the inside. i was thinking would it be safe to flip it so the 4 1/2 is on the outside and run only 2 1/4 inch of lip on the inside! i ask around and alot of guys says itll be safe. i know the previouse owner ran them that way for a while cause it has curve marks on the inside and the old marking on the inside towards the brakes. it has valve stems on both sides also. im not too sure whats the offsets on these but its about 1 inch away from the shock/spring the way it is right now. let me know what you guys think. im running a 95 lt1 330hp/ t56 on a 75 280z. thanks.

the old sbc has the dipstick on the opisit side as the lt1. the dip stick on the lt1 is on the pass side. that will make a difference.

correct me if im wrong but using the shifter from the camaro doesnt really have to be in the same position as the z since the shifter is not connected onto the tranny like the t56 right! also, bartman, did you have to shave off the corner of your driver side mount also?

wow, for a second i seriously thought the ac delete from ebay isnt going to work. i have one on the way so it struck me for a while. i might do what wheel man did and sell the delete pulley from ebay.

3-5 miles a gallon? i better be running 10s with that. im wondering if your not sure about cams and stuff, how did you figure the 305 putting down 300hp?

the rear ends on the z depending on the year, i dont think the r180 will take the beating unless you have the newer r200 but the joints wont hold. constantly get traction and im sure the joints will snap. the easiest swap will be the 280zxt cv swap with the r200 or the z32 cv swap. besides that, search q45 and it should teach you alot. either one of these swaps, you will still have to buy adapters from modern motorsports.

thats either photoshop or thats some crazy stuff. definantly not gonna happen. plus its fwd chasis unless its converted to rear wheel, and theres no room for cooling at all. thats too much to be real. v8 turbo supercharged! lol. if its real, the turbo and supercharger arent hooked up cause thers no way the belt for the superchager is going to run lopp sided. engine, possibble, turbo/supercharger, nah. although i have seen a guy with a white 91 crx v8 swap using the crv rear ends.

one more question...should i eliminate the MAF when turbo or keep it? i seen alot of cars running twins without MAF.

right now im going to be running with the setup bartman mentioned above, shorty, programed pcm and no ac/ps stuff and emission stuff, etc...i was just hoping to hear what ls1 240z said, it shouldnt be too much LSA to bleed off boost! in that case, the cams going in for now. the motor should handle 8psi with good injectors on stock internals, it should be ok on 6psi with a 12.1 FMU itself. i heard of lt1s doing 12psi with good airfuel ratios on bone stock camaros with tunning. so as long as the cams not going bleed off boost, ill be good. the cars pretty much a weekend car but trying to drive it as much a possible, maybe everyday, its only a stock lt1 with a little boost...as long as its under boost, i should have to worry since itll just be operating as a stock lt1 with hotcam. about the engine build to use the turbo, im not trying to go too extreme into the build since i wont be seeing no more then 10psi at most, so stock should be ok with tunning and injectors and msd retard under boost. the turbo kit shouldnt be much except for the turbo itself. manifolds going to be build by my bro since hes a certified tig welder and work at a fabricating race shop with all kinds of scrap metal and blown bigblocks. ill try to post some pics for you lt1 guys when its done. it should look pretty sick.