piston

ey, i have one in the garage if your interested man, its from a 95 lt1 it has slave, flywheel, clutch and everything needed. the only problem is that it grinds like crazy on 5th and 6th gears and would need a rebuild. i have new 1-2nd syncro assymbly, blocker rings on all, new 3-4 gears i think it was or was it 1-2nd? and also a tremec steel shift fork for 3-4., i rebuilt it but it still grinds...500bucks, its yours, have receipt for everything.

smoking crack is no cheap hobby, its 20bucks a dime..lol...imagine if a crackhead stops smoking crack and spends that on a z...im sure he can build something fair...

im not too sure but am i lost??? are you guys just buying the maxima brackets and boting them in without any mods and it works? i have a complete setup in the garage but if i tried to see if itll fit, ill have to cut off my ,backplate meaning loosing wheel cylinders forever. thats why i didnt want to test fit them if i have to machine it but it looks like you guys just bolting them in. am i missing something?

thank you...

did i not say no offense!..people can search but instead makes a new thread asking about a popular wheel..thats like someone else saying search search search....your saying people here are more knowlegable then me, ofcorse, thats why im here to learn no offense, i agree, im a dumb nut learning also...i search and find my ansers instead of making new threads asking old questions over and over...im sure wheels are not important, but you gotta remember that this topic here in this specific forum we are posting on is brakes, wheels and suspension...so wheels is consider an important discussion in this particular thread...in fact, we are discussing about wheels arent we? noob or not, you dont want to ask a question in the v8 swap forum what kits are availible...that would not be a good question...im sure what ever i said up ther sounded kinda wrong but excuse me, i must of fliped when i saw that question posting one of the most popular cars on here asking a basic question, he has tons of threads regarding his vehicle...search...

no offense but people should really look around here before posting...if your a z fan, you have to come across watanabe pics before...and the price for needing these is no price close to rewinds...if your new to z cars, just search and the ansers there, if not, you may ask....a question asking what wheels are watanabes??? sorry, but it sounds too noob to posts...im sure im not the only one to agree...

ok, the whole time were talking about front brakes..i thought it was rears....

if you dont know what those wheels are, you dont need to buy them...you almost shouldnt be driving a z...

correct me if im wrong but your buying factory brackets? if you are, i dont think its a bolt on swap, you might have to machine the caliper brackets to a certain mm to make it fit right, and bore out the center whole.no easy job unless your have a machine shop handy...for 115.00 brackets, you could of bought the premade brackets for the rear disc conversion for 160.00 i think it was from modernmotorsports...

believe it or not, i used the stock t56 slave and bought an air fitting from work and grinded it down with an hand held cutter. i tried to cut the air fitting to make it as close as possible to the mcleod fitting and put it in the slave and guess what, it friggen works and doesnt leak...i had to buy a brass fitting and used a -4 fitting with teflon and saved myself 50.00 bucks...

so it comes in 87 and up eh...i saw one last week on a turbo z31 but didnt pay too much attention. are they suppose to be long nose? the one i saw i thought was a long nose. its a 87 for sure, turbo...ill go back for it this weekend and check it out. the flange, do i just pop in my stub axles???

if anyone can build a lt1 when school starts and ends and have the car running with everything wired and running perfect on a fi sbc, i give them hella props...that means you will have the drop all of your other classes and dedicate all your work into the one and only class your building the z for because im sure at 17 building a nice running z car yourself and going to school and $$ and reading and studying and doing homework and all that other stuff, your z wont be done until your in college or continuation like me...lol....yeah, too much car loving caused me to fall back to continuation school back in high school years... after reading your last post, not to be flaming or anything, but it looks like your starting to dream....no swaping expierence, no tools, only 5k budget....at least 15 hours into the project??? i dont know what to say... the pride in building a v8 z car is building it yourself, or at least help the person builing it build it. put your hands on it, get dirty, and make it work. paying someone else to do the job leaves you hanging when thers a problem with the car, you wont know how its wired, where are the wires leading to, which is which and what is what...meaning everytime somethings up, your going in digging for the solution saying to yourself you should of wired it yourself, then you would of know what the problem is. someone asks you what do you have under the hood, ask you questions you cant anser, dont be a fool...15 hours is not even enough to learn 1/8 of the lt1/ls1 swap... i say go carb...if you dont think you can do a carb swap, do not even attemp the lt1/ls1 swap, youll hate yourself...i dedicated half of my days into the lt1/t56 swap a year ago with hours and hours on this board, my lt1 still isnt running right....and believe it or not, im starting to hate myself..hahaha. lol...j/k..were here to help, just search and the anser is somewhere on here..

if you wrap ceramic coated headers, the wrap will almost melt itself onto the header and cause the wrap to stick to the headers but i guess thats what they are suppose to do anyways....i had some wrap on my old honda dc headers and it seems like it kinda melted onto the coat...i think it might have tiny micro fiberglass strands in it..im sure it does the same for others too but i could be wrong. by the way, what engine is that in the pic above, i thought it was an lt1 but its not..looks like a mix and match motor with older sbc valve covers with wierd looking lt1 manifold. it looks like it has an lt1 elbow and throttle body but the water pump looks like an older gen...

ceramic coated looks like aluminum...it will be a tight fit with the huggers wraped. depending on wraping skills, ive seen nice tight wraps to ugly loose wraps...the wrap is not going to tear up and you dont need to wrap in between, just wrap all the bottom runners together...

i would put a higher flow fuel pump on that instead of the stock one...search for 80lt1...he has a zx with the lt1 swap....lots of info and very helpful guy to anser questions...

search under me...im the idiot thats asks the most questions, im sure i have a thread covering 80% of what you need to know. i even have tranny mount pictures...some say the jtr mount will work, some say no for the tranny...what years the z? tunnel is defferent from 240 to 280s...

i got a bigger problem...my friggen harmonic hub bolt broke off into the crank and i cannt get the damn thing out, i then drilled it with the high speed steel and should of drilled it all out, instead used a easy out and the easy out broke into it. now i cannot drill out the easy out because it is heavy duty steel, same as the drill bit and it will not drill. damn, this thing piss me off. i had plan to drive it today after correcting the timming and replaces oilpan gasket and front seals. im thinking i might have to pull the motor for the 3rd time and put in a new crank or new bottom block. i drilled it for 6 hours straight and got nothing. the broken easy out will not budge, i tried drilling around it but it wont go through, i broke 4 drill bits already and worn out 3...my next and only option is towe the damn thing to a shop and pay them to do it. its stressful because i really dont have the right and powerful tools...i might sell the thing already, its my third option. even though if i drill out the broken bolt, i dont even think i am going to be able to retap the threads on the crank since its cast iron and it will chip the teeth of the tap and not work itself in...ughhh...i dont even know why it broke in the first place, the bolt pressed the hub in half way already, then it got tougher and it just broke and the bolt didnt even go all the way in...

im letting the clutch all the way out but it just seems like it climbs straight to redline. could my timing have cause this? i took my dist. off and notice this thing was way off...maybe about by an 1/4 inch or so. stupid me, i replace my seals and noticed it. that for sure is also the reason why this thing is running filthy rich. the timing was way too advance...im trting to set it as straight as possible. gm screwed up when the build this thing, they didnt put a keyway(halfmoon) on the harmonic balancer hub when they created this, whats the reason behind that? older sbc have it, whats the reason behind the lt1 harmonic hub? that threw it off when i put it together in the beginning, not after learning new things everyday, it was so off. lost a 1/4 tank of gas on a 9 mile drive....by the way, how in the hell do i go about checking timing on this anyway? no marks to time it anywhere? and if its off, that means i would have to remove everything and turn the harmonic hub?

wow, for a second, i thought you was my buddy here in town. hes got a 54 chevy, dont know what the heck it is, im wiring his lt1 into his chevy for him, if your using aftermarket gauges, itll be alot more simple. obviously, you will need to, since the 1948 gauges im sure will not work with the lt1. you will find alot of good info on here if you search under my old threads, i have the same setup your looking for and all the info is on here somehwere. but let me do some homework for you since im not busy... for the clip/connector for the pcm, pull the red clip and push on the side of the color cover, slide the color cover off, the pins will slide out, pull the ones you dont need, and it looks soo much cleaner then cutting it. search for ( lt1 delete recap) ...this is the main thread that im sure gets everyone through the wiring. thanks to whoever started it, it helped me out over and over and over, and i still use it til this very day. to extend the caprice harness to go back into the cockpit firewall seems like itll be a alot of work, keep an eye out because you wouldnt want to mess up the wiring and open up the wire looms over and over and over in the future to find out some wires are not there. take out everything you dont need and keep the basic wires. just do alot of thinking ahead of time before you delete them out. the 1954 chevy, lucky him, his engine came with a painless, but it looks like hell compare to my caprice harness. everything is delete like power steering and a/c and emissions. you will see that the harness gets smaller and smaller, but it thats al it really takes to run the lt1. gvincent, on the 280z fi harness, its simple...just keep the light wires connected, if engine is pulled already, just mark the oil/amp.water temp and basic wires you want to run with the lt1. everything else thats connected to the engine, just pull off, mark the alternator and big white w/red strips. that will go to the fusebox or positive constant hot power supply. pretty much, the jtr covers the wires you will be needing. instead of how its wired to the carb engine, convert it to the lt1 and it will fall into place. it takes time, i did mine out of the blue pulling it all off within couple hours, the only thing in my stock harness is controlling the lights around the vehicle and factory 3 middle gauges.

is this a drag car? daily driven? thats a pretty decent hp goal...with those heads and the forged 383 bottom end, 400 should be a good number to look forward to. usually i see high horses on higher compression instead of 62cc with 10 to 1 pistons, not saying its not possible but i usually see 11 and up compression. is this an older lt1 or newer fuel injected lt1? with 400hp under the hood, the turbos are usless on the streets and you will get no traction at all when it hits boost. your car will go side ways and tired will spin loose and out of control. with my lt1, its suicide on a street drag. thats my thought...ill like to check it out if you dont mind. im located in sactown also. gives me a chance to meet a hybrid z in town...you can also check my ride out. by the way, with 400hp in the z, you wouldnt want anymore horse power, it becomes useless...i thought about doing a single turbo on my lt1, after driving it full throttle, it does not need turbo for sure. but im still looking forward to turbo it later in time only for show. but seriously, it will do backflips, and front flips everytime you feed it boost. i just cant imagine...

ok, that makes sense. that might be the problem, i had to cut my rod on the tilton clutch master cylinder 3/8 shorter according to jtr but i didnt think it wasnt neccesary since it looks like its a little too short. that might just be the problem. ill look into that. i thought you meant there was another way to adjust the clutch itself...lol...

im not sure what you mean by adjusting the clutch? is it even possible to adjust the t56 clutch? from how i see it, it just pretty much goes in one way and that pretty much all you can really do? can someone explain???

that makes more sense of welding it up!!!

t56 comes to mind when the auto just isnt enough!!!

95 lt1 caprice, lt4 cam,springs 1.6 rr and bolt ons.. well, i got sick of my car vibrating and cannot figure out what the hell it is, it vibrates at times, then it doesnt at time, i dont think its the u joints because it doesnt vibrate at high speeds, maybe something simple like exhaust hitting diff or something. i dont get it but anyway, i took it out to the farmside and did a couple of runs. i notice alot of things... 1st gear jumps to red line within a blink, no use, it doesnt burn out either i dont think. maybe because the clutch is new. it just jumps to redline like its slipping or something... 2nds starts off at 4k rpm and redlines within second... 3rd grabs hard and pulls pretty decent and strong 4th just pulls like crazy and also churps a bit...(nice) 5th just pulls all the way down south, sounds like everythings about to break...up around from 75mph up i think.. it seems like if it was a quarter mile run, thins things going to be finishing in top 5th gear...but im guessing maybe only low 13s at the moment since its throwing a check engine light, wrong MAF..exhaust leaks like crazy, its runing filthy rich,(my new ac delcos are pitch black) havent even done the timing, and dont even know if the knock sensor is sensing the correct signal. ill be fixing these things as soon as i get tuner cat but for now, its alright for slap on and go run.. everything on the side of the road passes by so fast, im from point a and next thing i know, im already done and im like, what, im here already? its great having this thing run and having a good pull. its been a while since i got sucked into a seat and it feels great. i notice the car moves from left to right do to torqe steer everytime i shift and it grabs(really dangerouse on streets). im gonna need to cage this thing up and put on some strut bars and upgrade my suspension...right now im running stock suspension with eibach 1inch drop springs and it feels ok. overall, i think it ran fair...