Z-TARD

Is this going to be TIG, MIG, or Stick? What material? There are some tricks to getting good penetration and joint strenght depending on material and process.

Dude, once you get your shop set up in Fla. you can do this: http://members.aol.com/COUPECHUCK/ This guy built a perfect reproduction of the original aluminum bodied daytonas in his garage. If you compard it next to one of the 6 original coupes, you probably wouldn't be able to tell them apart mechanically. This dudes fabrication skills put mine to shame.... Mike

Yeah, that guy must have some serious funding. The Superformance Daytona Coupes are not cheap copies like most kit cars, they are an improved version of the original. They brought in Pete Brock (designer of the original Daytona) to redesign the body for this one. It looks the same, but shares not even a single dimesion with the original. Notice it has roll up side windows as well. The suspension and drivetrain is also completely different than the original, and is significantly improved upon. If I had unlimited funds, and the choice between getting this one, or an original Daytona, I'd get this one without a second thought.

Good pick, the stainless looks really good, and the muzzle brake is definitely a plus. 308's don't kick too hard for the most part, but it's nice to have the recoil reduced enough so that you can actually watch through the scope as the bullet hits the target. If you shoot from a bipod, be sure to put a sheet or tarp on the ground under the muzzle area, because brakes tend to kick up a lot of dust. Have you picked out a scope mount yet? I'm using this one on mine, and am really pleased with it: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=18358&title=SCOPE+BASES There are a few reasons I went with a weaver/picatinny base. First is that it's a one peice base made from 4140 steel. It adds a lot of rigidity to the receiver which makes for a more accurate shooting platform. Second is the multiple slots that allow for a lot of mounting options. You can postion the rings further foward or backward to set the correct eye relief for your scope, you can also add more rings to make the scope mount nearly indestructible. The design of the rail itself also allows you to remove and reinstall the scope without much of a shift in zero. At 100 yards, you probably wouldn't even notice it. They make two versions for the savage, one is level with the bore, and the other is angled to give you 20 moa of elevation at 100 yards. The 20 moa base is designed for long range shooting, it allows you to use more of the scopes internal adjustments to compensate for range, out to 1000 yards or more. The angled base doesn't affect short range shooting at all once you get it zeroed. The only downside to it is that it doesn't come in a stainless finish to match your rifle

Nice! I've been thinking of doing the same thing with my 280z "Turd". Those engines are cheaper than used dog crap out here. You'll probably get your's done before I even start on mine, so document everything so I can learn from your mistakes Mike

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Shelby-Daytona-Coupe-Shelby-Daytona-Coupe-Brock-Coupe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6465QQitemZ4635507371QQrdZ1

Soooooo.............. Wadjagit?

What percentage of your 2 acres in florida will NOT be covered in Z? Lol, JK. Nice find man, maybe do this one as a V8 for a change Mike

Mine showed up last week and they are friggin awesome! Thanks Mat! Mike

Are you quite certain you wouldn't rather have one of these? Heh heh heh..... http://www.tacproshootingcenter.com/AI_rifles.html Seriously though, the Savage is an excellent choice. I highly doubt that you'll be dissapointed. Mike

I'll have to check with HQ first (Wife), pending any schedule conflicts with some kind of arts and crafts or cat show, I'll be there...... Mike

Armalite AR-50. I havent shot too many guns with brakes, but I have shot a few through one of those and I have to say it was much more pleasant to shoot than my 300 win mag. After a while though, I noticed that the rearward blast from the muzzle brake was making my nose run like crazy Armalite also makes a smaller version called the AR-30: http://www.armalite.com/sales/catalog/rifles/ar30.htm Prices seem to have gone up since I looked at these last, but are still a bargain for what it is. You're gonna hate me, but here's yet another option http://www.berettausa.com/product/rifles/series_page.cfm?currentseries=28 The Tikka T3 Varmint. About the same price as a Remington, but with a much smoother action. These are the budget versions of the Sako rifles. They also make a T3 Tactical version that has a huge muzzle brake on it for about $1400. Regardless of which brand oif rifle you choose, I think you'll get more enjoyment out of either the varmint or tactical models. They are more purpose built for target shooting than hunting rifles are. Anyway, hope this helps a little. I've got about 30 or 40 other rifles I can post links too just to make the decision even more difficult Mike

I have 4 of these now http://cgi.ebay.com/FITCO-3-12X44-SIDE-PARALLAX-RIFLE-SCOPE_W0QQitemZ7236245670QQcategoryZ31714QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem The same guy sells a few other scopes that are higher magnification for about $10.00 more. They're cheap because the magnification markings are wrong, other than that they are pretty good scopes. The resolution could be a bit better, but more than enough for a few hundred yards. The mil dot reticle is pretty useful for determining range and holdovers once you get used to it. The side focus adjustment is pretty nice to have too, and is pretty accurate for determining range by itself. I've had one on my 300win mag now for a while, with no ill effects from recoil. These are pretty tough scopes. I'd stay away from rifle/scope packages. Most that I've seen have come with low grade simmons or tasco scopes. I've had a few simmons scopes come apart on me under moderate recoil, one even on a 223. One thing to consider when getting a rifle is how you intend to use it. If you plan on carrying it around a lot in the field, and only shooting a few times, then you'll probably be better off with a lightweight rifle with a fairly short, thin barrel. If you plan on shooting from a bench or prone position, taking 20 or more shots in one sitting, then you'll probably want a heavier rifle with a long heavy contour barrel. The extra weight will help keep it steady while you aim, as well as reducing the amount of felt recoil. The thicker barrel will also be able to shoot more rounds before it begins to heat up. Typically when a barrel starts to soak up a lot of heat, they will begin to string shots, meaning that each shot you take will be further and further from your point of aim the more the barrel heats up. Heavier barrels are much more resistant to this than smaller barrels found on lightweight rifles. This one goes for $569.00 and should be a pretty decent shooter: http://www.savagearms.com/12fv.htm

http://www.savagearms.com/10fpchoate.htm Brand new Savage 10FPLE with Choate varmint stock, excellent rifle capable of sub 1" accuracy. Or, A surplus VZ-24 (AKA Mauser 98) converted to 308 with a new Shilen 26" barrel, and various other mods totaling about $700. Also capable of sub 1" accuracy. BIG 5 Has Mausers on sale now for $99.00....... Two options for relatively cheap that will outshoot most other guns at the range. Mike

I've always been partial to the old enfield No.4 rifles, very ergonomic and they just seem to hit whatever you put in front of them. However, the ammo for those is getting difficult to find (quality ammo, anyway) and the potential for upgrading is pretty limited unless you want to REALLY want to get into gunsmithing. The same could pretty much be said for the Moisin Nagants as well. Good rifles, but you will find their limitations pretty quickly. For military surplus guns, the Mauser 98 is about as good as you can get. Accurate, very upgradable, and about the strongest action ever made in bolt action. They will safely handle any round that will fit in the action (Provided that the barrel is properly chambered for it). The aftermarket parts for these are almost unlimited, converting to another caliber is super easy. Scope mounts are also pretty easy to find, and generally much more durable than mounts made for other rifles like the Nagants and Enfields. For off the shelf guns, most modern bolt actions are really good. A lot of guns now routinely shoot sub 1" groups at 100 yards. Savage rifles are really good if you're on a budget. I have the 110 FPLE tactical version in a Mcmillan stock, and it is an absolute tack driver for under $1000. They have versions of the same rifle for considerably less . The new trigger design they have is probably the best trigger available for any off the shelf rifle. The Remington 700 is pretty much in a class by itself though. pretty much an icon of bolt actions. Get the 223 or 308 varmint version and you won't be disapointed. Older versions of the Winchester model 70 are good as well. They recently got bought out by a French company though, and all their newer stuff is crap. Hope this helps Mike

Heh Heh Heh. Yeah, I'm gonna have to build one for my car too Mike

I must have this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FFR-Daytona-Coupe-CSX2602-w-2700-Miles-400HP_W0QQitemZ4629615805QQcategoryZ7251QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ned Beatty's pants