MrFurious

Somehow or another I've officially become Savage's online PR guy (I guess founding the Savage Shooters website caused that). Works out pretty nice though as I find I don't have to buy many guns these days since all I need to do is call Savage and have them send me whatever I want to do a review on. Get the guns for 120 days on consignment with the option to buy at dealer cost if I want to keep it. The downside is that after 120 days I usually grow fond of the gun and end up sending out a check. lol I'm up to 13 Savage's now, not including the new O/U or the new rimfire that just came in today for review. Here's a couple shots from my collection. Have a few more, just haven't gotten around to photographing them yet. - Custom AR-15 w/26" Shilen barrel chambered in .17 Remington (my coyote rifle) - Remington 700ML .50cal muzzleloader - Remington 870TB Wingmaster 12ga - Browning BPS 12ga - Marlin 336 in .30-30 - Savage Model 101 single-shot .22lr pistol (DOM 1961) - Custom Savage Model 11 in .22-250AI with a 26" Douglas barrel & SSS stock. - Savage Mark II-GLV in .17 HM2 - Savage 93R17-GLV in .17HMR - Savage Model 24V in .222 Rem/20ga (DOM 1968) - Savage Model 10ML-II .50cal muzzleloader (added the laminated stock from a Model 12BSS) - Savage Model 12 Varmint Low Profile in .204 Ruger (only LH single-shot made to date) - Savage Model 12 Long Range Precision Varmint in .22-250 (special order with a 1-9" twist barrel) - Savage Model 110PEL in .30-06 (DOM 1966) - Savage Model 24C "Campers Companion" in .22lr/20ga - Savage Model 111GL in .25-06 Rem. - Savage Model 220 single-shot .410ga (DOM 1948) - Savage Model 516FSAK Striker in .22-250 (started life as a .243 Win.) One of these days I might get around to buying a semi-auto shotgun for waterfowl and upland hunting, but the two pumps will suffice for the time being.

Well, another one found it's way into my safe today. My gunsmith called and said a gun came in for me, so this evening I ran out to see what it was. Low and behold it's one of Savage's new 20ga Milano O/U shotguns. I had just spoken with Savage about getting one of these last week for a review and was told it would probably be late October or early November at the earliest, so its arrival was a total surprize. Anyway, here's a couple pic's... The off-center lever is my only complaint about this shotgun thus far. Hopefully with some use it will wear in a little and not be as far off. I was actually surprised how light this is for an O/U. At 6 1/4 lbs, it weights the same as a 20ga Remington 870 Express with a 26" barrel. Definitely not a trap or skeet gun, but the lightweight will be nice in the pheasant fields of S. Dakota next month.

All I can say is I hope I have you're dedication and attention to detail when I start tearing into my Z. As for selecting a paint color I have the same problem you do. I like the darks and I like the brights, so I'm not looking forward to that day either. I will say though that the gunmetal grey is one of my favorites, and with a little metallic or pearl it will really pop. As for whoever it was that said green, I never thought I'd say it but I saw a really hot green recently. It's a lime'ish florescent green color (factory Lamborghini color). Friend of mine just painted his car (well, it's kind of a car...I guess) that color with a very subtle pearl yellow and it's an eye catcher. This pic doesn't do it justice, but it will give you an idea.

Those eraser wheels designed for removing vinyl decals work great to remove the leftover residue as well. Just be sure to chuck them up in a low rpm tool.

Wasn't slighted by anyone, rather just an observation I had made over the last week since I came aboard.

If only we could pound this philosopy into people's heads. I used to work the tech lines down at Jeg's when I was going to college, and you'd be amazed by some of the stupid, not thought out combinations people would want to put together. And of course, no matter how hard you tried to steer them in the right direction, they still thought they knew it all and ordered what they originally planned to even though you told them a dozen times it won't work. Then they have the nerve to call back a couple weeks later claiming their car runs like crap or they broke something on their first run...WELL DUH! And since we're on this subject, lets look at it from another angle real quick and get the perspective of someone new to this forum. I've spent the last week going through literally hundreds of threads absorbing information, but lets assume a lot of that information either a) doesn't answer my exact question or leaves me with another question. So as a new guy someone posts up a question and is immediately bombarded with several "use the search button" replies. Someone mind explaining how that's helpful to someone? I run a forum similar to this one, and while I too get tired of seeing the same questions asked over and over again I don't get an elitest attitude just because I know the answers already buried somewhere in the archives. Doing so just gives them a very bad first impression of the site. After all, how would you feel if you walked into a parts store and asked the guy behind the counter for something and he simply threw a catalog at you and said "It's in the book, look it up." You have to remember that new people are coming through the door every day. They're starting from square one (the same as you did at some point) and most likely have very little knowledge pertaining to Z-cars. They're relying on those of you with more experience to help them get started, and your doing so will quicken their learning curve. That means more well-informed members on the site, which is beneficial to everyone. Love the site, but this is one area that could be improved to make the atmosphere of the forum more welcoming to new members.

Thanks Pop. Looked all over and couldn't find anything Datsun related on the VB site, then I noticed the Black Dragon logo on their homepage and the lightbulb came on.

Got the name years ago from a friend who spent a little too much time in the car with me while I was driving. I tend to get a little vocal regarding the other cars around me which are usually being operated by imcompetent drivers.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/ Your one-stop shop for the best 700R4 rebuild kits and upgrades available.

Very cool! What you need to do though is hook up with those guys who build miniature engines that actually run and have them build you a L24 for it. They have a huge show up in Michigan every year where all these folks get together and show off what they've built in the last year. I've seen 1/16th scale harley engines, 1/10th scale V8's (including a blown hemi), and even a 1/24th scale locomotive engine. You name it, one of these guys has probably built it or is in the process of building it.

New to the site, but not totally new to Z-cars. Had a 280Z up until about 10 years ago and have been out of the circle since, but now that I'm back in the game I'm looking for part suppliers. I have found some of the larger ones already via mention here and a google search, but Im sure there have to be others out there. As such, please chime in if you have any vendors links not listed here. http://www.zcarpart.scom (performance and restoration parts) http://www.modern-motorsports.com (performance Z parts) http://www.jagsthatrun.com (LT1 and earlier conversion kit) http://www.brokenkitty.com (LS engine conversion kit) http://www.betamotorsports.com (performance/racing Z parts) http://www.speartech.com (LS engine harnesses) http://www.arizonazcar.com (performance Z parts) http://www.zbarn.com (new & used OEM Z parts) http://www.classicdatsun.com (restoration & performance Z parts) http://www.jimcookracing.com (performance Z parts) My plan is to do the V8/T-56 conversion and upgrade the suspension for more spirited driving (Mid-Ohio is only an hour or so away). I also plan to do a body kit of some type, though right now I'm not 100% sure what's still available and what's been mothballed.

$1200 seems a little high for a 700R4. Last I checked Ebay you could pick up used ones pretty cheap (couple hundred bucks). A quality rebuild kit will run you around $200 or so. Now the fun part....start hanging around with the local gear heads or the track and find someone who does tranny rebuilds on the side and has a good reputation. I have a guy here in town who's a mechanic at the local Ford dealership who will rebuild any transmission I bring him for $150 in labor. If I were faced with having to spend $1200 on a 700R4, I'd hold off and spend an extra couple hundred and buy a T-56.

In all honesty, don't waste your time on a single-stage compressor (or a 110V one for that matter) if you plan to use it for doing body work. You can usually find a good used 2-stage/220V for what a new single-stage/110V will cost you. There's two reasons you want a 2-Stage. First, all of your single-stage units today are pretty much made by one company, and the quality is pretty low. Second, the pumps are designed to only last 10,000 hours. In short, they're throw-away compressors. A 2-Stage compressor is designed for heavy and continual use, and will last 4-5 times as long as a single-stage. They're also a lot quieter and more efficient than a single-stage. Something else to consider: you can't get more than about 3.5 HP off 110 volts, it's physically impossible. When you see 110V motors rated for 5, 5.5 or 7HP, that's their peak HP and not what they put out continuously. Cheapest compressor I'd buy (new) would be the Ingersoll Rand 5HP 230V 2-Stage from Tractor Supply (TSC#3496129). It has an 80gal tank and 175psi max, 100% continuous duty cycle, and 15.8cfm @ 90psi. They're right at $1,000 new. Personally though, I'd spend the extra couple hundred dollars and get something a little more HD like this one: http://www.industrial-air-compressors.com/air-compressor-3-8.html

Flames don't line up quite right directionally, but this should give you a general idea of how it would look.