MrFurious

Check your ground. I had this exact same problem with the stereo in my old Jeep, and it turned out that my ground connection point wasn't the best. Another thing to look for that's common is the inline fuse holders. Sometimes you have to stratech out the spring a little to ensure it puts enough tension on the fuse to get a good connection.

For those of you with LS6 or LS7 engines in your Z, these are almost too perfect for replacing your factory fender emblems. C6 Corvetter Z06 Fender Emblems

Nope. Shooting into ballistic gelatin will cause the bullet to expand and/or fragment. Same will happen if you shoot it into water. Last November Ron Coburn (CEO of Savage Arms) invited me up to the factory for a few days to see how their rifles are made and to do a little shooting at his private range. When I got there and walked into his office, he had a Barrett .50 sitting on his desk so naturally I had to ask what the story was. As it turns out, Ron was just finishing up designing one of their Ballistic Buddy Traps for Barrett Firearms that could handle the big 50. He showed me a bullet he'd fired into the trap and outside of the marks where it engaged the rifling it was totally unmarked. No deformation what-so-ever (I even checked it with a mic!). Needless to say I was impressed. Right now most every major U.S. firearms manufacturer as well as most branches of the military, the FBI and the LAPD are all using Savage system in one form or another. Here's a link with more details: http://www.snailtraps.com/index.htm In the animation on the link above you'll see how their SNAIL Traps work.

Ok, who wants to bet their hybrid Z that I can stop a .50 BMG bullet in less than three feet and inflict no damage to the bullet (only marks on it will be where it engaged the rifling in the barrel)? Any takers?

So is JCI the only game in town for LS engine swaps right now?

Spent the last two nights going through pages and pages of old posts here, but I have yet to find the answer to a simple question (that or I got a severe case of information overload and totally missed it). Does JTR offer a kit specifically for the LS engines, or do they only have the kit for the LT1 and earlier SBC's? No info on JTR's site specifying if they do or not, but in the course of my travels here I could have swarn I saw where someone mentioned using a JTR kit to swap in a LS motor. I hate to call them knowing I'm not yet ready to order anything, so I'm hoping someone here can give me a definite answer. If not I'll go with the JCI kit, but some of their additional componenets are a little pricey IMO.

The good doctor isn't the only one with a personal arsenol. lol This is my newest toy, a Savage Model 12 Precision Varmint in .22-250 (special order with a 1-9" twist barrel) and a couple targets representing what it's capable of at 100yds. Not bad for a bone-stock factory rifle. Another favorite is my Savage Striker in .22-250. Not only is it fun to shoot, but with the 3-12x Burris scope and Ballistic-Plex reticle it's deadly on g-hogs and PD's out to 400 yards with 50gr Nosler BT's. Then of course there's my baby, a Savage 110PEL in .30-06 that's one of 25 ever built (758 made in total in three calibers between 1965 and 1969, of which less than 10% were lefties). Action is nickel plated and fully engraved, as is everything else except the barrel itself. All the engraving work was done in Germany, and the stock is French walnut and was made by Sile of Italy. Might as well throw in my 1000 yard rifle as well, a custom built Savage chambered in .22-250 Ackley with a 1-8" twist barrel. This puppy will shoot 1/2 MOA @ 500 yards when I do my part with the 80gr Nosler bullets leaving the muzzle at a hair over 3400fps.

Wish I would have seen this a couple months ago. I have the perfect vehicle to fill your instructors "something different" requirement in my 1978 Jeep Cherokee. It's pretty much rust free but does need one lower rear quarter replaced and a little straightening on the lip of the front facia. This Jeep lived in San Diego all its life up until 3 years ago when I pruchased it off Ebay and drove it back to Ohio, and I've since been storing it in the winters. This shows the dented area of the facia (rusty area). Wouldn't be anything to pound out with the right tools. This shows the passenger quarter that has already had the lower section replaced. The drivers side will need the same treatment as it's developed a hole over the last year about the size of a bar of soap. Full shot of the Jeep touched up in PhotoShop. Nearly 29 years old and still hasn't hit the 100k miles yet (getting close though). I had planned on painting it this summer, but as always something else came up that took priority. Now I'm back to square one saving up my pennies again.

Don't think she's being all sweet, she just wan'ts that ugly orniment out of her back yard (and hidden in the garage) before the neighbors start talking.

Wow, lots of Ohio guys here! I'm just west of Lima myself. Don't presently have a Z but I'm working on it, so if any of you know where there's a solid 70 to early 74 sitting that I could pick up cheap I'd be very interested. My first car was a black and gold 71 240Z with a 327 SBC and TH350. Went through 4 rearends the first year before I finally broke down and put a 4-link and GM 12-bolt under it (which cost a small fortune I might add). Car was great at the stip with this setup, but it sucked as a road car.

Sub enclosers act the same as a shock to help control the movement of the sprung weight (in this case, the cone of the speaker). On a shock we have compression and rebound valving, while a sub uses air pressure (both inside and outside the box) to control the cones movement. Free-air subs (as the name implies) are designed for use without a specifically designed box, but rather just a baffle board sealing the frontal waves from the rear waves (these waves will cancel each other out and you'll have little to no bass). They are, by design, optimized for very large enclosures with little internal air pressure. In most vehicles it would be physically impossible to build a box of the size needed for this type of sub. On the other hand we have subs designed specifically for use within an enclosure. I won't go into the different types of enclosures, but they can range from 1/2 cu. ft. up to 3 cu. ft. per sub. Some subs are designed for a specific type of enclosure, while others are more vorgiving and can be used in a variety of configurations (do-all subs). The manufacturers supply box volume requirements for enclosures for the enclosure as based on their testing this volume will provide the best performance with the given sub. I personally prefer sealed enclosures as they tend to provide the cleanest, sharpest bass. Bandpass boxes are much more efficient (meaning less amp power is needed), but IMO the bass ends up a little muddy. Ported boxes are tuned for a specific frequency and will really thump at that frequency, but at other frequencies they suffer (this gets back into the wave length thing again). Isobaric boxes can be built in any of these configurations, but IMO you don't get your money's worth with an ISO enclosure. In ISO, you're essentially mounting two subs face to face and wiring them out of phase. As one subs cone moves forward, the other subs cone moves backwards (remember, out of phase). This gives you twice the surface area moving air (back side of both cones), but you only see about a 25% increase in performance. Back in the early 1990's while I was working in a car audio shop we built a Chevy Beretta that had 32 10" subs mounted in an ISO configuration (16 pairs). The enclosure took up the entire trunk and rear seat area of the car, and while impressive to look at the bass was nothing to write home about. When the SPL competitions started getting big in our area, the guy came back in and had us totally redo the system as he was getting stomped at the comps. We went with two 15" JBL subs in a simple bandpass box in the trunk and this setup put him back at the top of the heep (for a few weeks) until we did the 1990 Grand Prix with six of the 15" JBL's mounted in place of the rear seat facing forward (essentially a wall right behind the front seats), and three 3ft long EarthQuake amps kicking out 2000 watts a piece (1000w per sub). When cranked up, the sound pressure was so great in the Grand Prix that if you stuck your head in the window you would get a bloody nose. I know some people are into that stuff, buy my favorite installs were the stealth installs. A pair of 10's or a single 12 tucked away in the trunk, mir-ranges tucked away, and tweeters optimally placed to get the best soundstage effect. Everything would be out of sight so the car looked factory and unaltered other than the head unit in the dash. Then again, I still subscribe to the K.I.S.S. rule...Keep It Simple Stupid.

Filler should only be applied over a catalyzed primer or bare metal. Applying it over any spray-bomb product is a no-no no matter how long you let the base coat cure.

The reason you typically see subs mounted facing the rear in hatchbacks is because low-frequency sound waves are longer than high-frequency waves. By bouncing the sound waves off the glass, you [in effect] get a longer wave path which results in better bass.