grumpyvette

looking at that dyno graph its very obvious that the engine stops efficiently breathing (filling the cylinders effectively )at about 4000RPM looking at the info you gave "Around 9.5 compression, forged pistons, 1.5 roller rockers, cam, valve springs... RPM Air-gap manifold, Holley 650dp carb... Plain jane HEI with a coil (think I'm going to get some MSD soon)... T5 tranny with a 3.90 rear end. Ceramic block huggers to a full dual 2.5in exhaust with an X-pipe and MAC mufflers. K&N and all that. " its apparent that while your engine has a good start,that you could benefit from a cam swap at the minimum and better cylinder heads if the budget allows. a cam like this MINIMUM (my choice for your combo here) http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114142&B1=Display+Card or MAXIMUM (if you enjoy that lumpy idle sound and don,t mind a noticable loss in low rpm torque for a slight gain in upper rpm power) like this http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114822&B1=Display+Card either cam should give a noticable boost in hp/ (about 25 minimum)add the heads also and you should reasonably expect well over 60 more total rear wheel hp , now that should boost your engine from about 250 to about 310 hp plus, a 20% increase should significantly increase your rear wheel hp ESPECIALLY if matched to better flowing cylinder heads like these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30400001 As Cast CNC Chamber Option 0.100 50.6 57.9 64.2 55.9 0.200 135.8 98.3 138.5 105.2 0.300 191.0 136.4 197.7 145.5 0.400 229.7 162.9 237.1 170.7 0.500 253.1 176.9 256.8 186.3 0.600

thanks, I keep trying to answer the questions in ways that are easy to grasp for those with little previous info, I could get into far more detail but most guys would either not follow the info or not know the theory behind some concepts, those that already do know the basics ,don,t normally need much help

hey guys , heres a few chevy and corvette sites that you might not know exist that will have further links and info you can use, sign up at each site and look around , the links can provide you with chevy related info that will assist your engine swaps ETC. REMEMBER THE MORE SOURCES OF INFO YOU HAVE THE BETTER YOULL BE AT FINDING ANSWERS TO PROBLEMS QUICKLY link 1 link 2 link 3 link 4

basically it has to do with the fact that the sensors in an EFI system with the stock software tend to function more relieably if the vacume reading don,t fluxuate as greatly and the air collums in the runners don,t have strong reversion pulse strength, spreading the LSA tends to allow the same total duration but less overlap (the period both valves remain open at the same time) overlap is used effectively for cylinder scavaging at the tuned RPM levels where the exhaust headers help draw in the fresh intake charge but at lower rpms overlap can cause reversion, carbs are slightly less sensitive at low rpms. wider LSA also tend to widden the torque curve slightly allowing a widder operating range and a smoother idle at the cost of a slight drop in the peak torque while tighter LSAs tend to drop rpm where peak low rpm torque occures but raise the peak slightly earlier in the curve here things to read The LSA, or lobe separation angle, is ground into the cam and cannot be changed. It is the angle that separates the intake and exhaust lobe for a particular cylinder, and is measured in camshaft degrees. The intake lobe centerline is measured in crankshaft degrees. The #1 intake lobe centerline is usually between 100° to 110° ATDC and is what you use to degree the cam. The cam manufacturer will publish the specs for the cam based on a given intake lobe centerline. Comp Cams, for instance, produces a large number of cams with 110­° LSA ground 4° advanced, so they list the specs for the cam with a 106° intake lobe centerline. You can calculate the ILC by adding the intake opening angle in °BTDC, the intake closing angle in °ABDC, plus 180° for the distance from TDC to BDC. Divide by 2 and subtract the intake opening angle and you will have the ILC. For example a 12-430-8 Comp Cam lists IO at 34°BTDC, IC at 66° ATDC, so 34 + 66 + 180 = 280. 280/2 = 140. 140 - 34 = 106° ILC. these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap this is some of the best basic cam info youll find so read this first, http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (lessons 1-8) http://ctfba.tripod.com/main/technical/cams/cambasics/cambasics.htm http://ctfba.tripod.com/main/technical/cams/cambasics/GraphAttack.htm http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html#2002

THIS 265cc oval port head WOULD WORK VERY WELL ON THAT 454 the AFR bbc flow numbers you wanted keep in mind you can,t use most of the potential if your only spining the 454 to 5000rpm, its kinda like hunting mice with 10 gauge slugs

have a long talk with both BRODIX and CRANE before buying parts http://www.paceparts.com/product.asp?0=239&1=242&3=1215 first look this over, IVE HIGHLIGHTED A FEW THINGS IN THE DESCRIPTION Detailed Description The 454 HO offers tremendous value in a big block crate engine. Based on the GenVI block, this 425 horsepower iron head engine is a great choice for that muscle car in the garage. We've heard of several of our customers replacing their rare matching number 396, 427 or 454 with our 454 HO in order to drive their car on today's gasoline without fear of destroying their classic engine. The HO stands for high output, it also stands for big valves, rectangular ports, forged pistons, forged steel crankshaft, forged connecting rods and four bolt mains. Sounds a lot like the performance big blocks of the late 60's doesn't it ? When you add in the steel roller camshaft, shotpeened rods, windage tray, one piece rear main seal and high speed single roller timing chain, it sounds more like the performance big block of the 90's. And it is ! The 454 HO makes 500 Ft/Lbs of torque with its rectangular port open chamber cylinder heads. With 118cc combustion chambers, the modest 8.75 to 1 compression ratio loves today's pump premium and has no appetite for lead, octane boosters or other fuel additives. Its 2.19" intake and 1.88" exhaust valves and high lift .510"/.540" roller cam let it breath with the best of the early muscle car motors.With your carburetor, HEI distributor, exhaust system and bright red '67 Corvette coupe (sold separately 31 years ago), you've got a muscle cruiser worthy of your time, effort and expertise. And, if you want to use your muscle car's fuel system with a mechanical fuel pump, you can because the 454 HO GenVI block has a conventional style fuel pump boss.The 454 HO is not intended for marine use, and should only be used in 1973 and earlier pre-emissions street vehicles or any year off road vehicles.Technical Note: For manual transmission applications use flywheel #14096987 and a suitable 11" clutch assembly. now we can use your slightly higher 9:1 compression or better yet boost it to 10:1 with small chamber aluminum heads and more efficient oval port intake matched to those oval port heads to beat those figures with the correct cam choice. I think Id be looking at a set of small brodix oval port heads with 105cc chambers(CHECK TO MAKE SURE THEY WORK WITH YOUR PISTONS) http://www.brodix.com/onlinecatalog/page1-2/page1-2.html • Chambers Offered as Small as 100 cc id pick a crane hydrolic roller cam #139731 http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=139731&B1=Display+Card add your intake and carb and you should have close to the results your looking for( my software and some prior experiance says youll be closer to 550 ft/lbs than the 500ft lbs the stock engine makes with the increase in compression and better head flow have a long talk with both BRODIX and CRANE before buying parts

"Right now I'm looking at the following: * stock 454 2-bolt block, bored 0.030", decked 0.022" * stock 6.135" rods, resized, with ARP bolts * Speed-Pro hypereutectic (cast) pistons, 0.090" dome * stock 4.000" cast crank With the machining to-date, with this combo the pistons stick out 0.001" above the deck. Compression ratio with 119cc chambers and 0.040" head gasket comes out to around 9.12:1. The rotating/reciprocating assembly has been balanced with my damper, flywheel, and clutch. So that set of components is now fixed. I also have a Performer RPM (oval) intake, 4160-style 750 cfm carb, and an exhaust tract based on slightly modified Hooker block-hugger headers. What I need to buy is: cam, lifters and the rest of the valvetrain, and the heads. I've run numerous simulations on Desktop Dyno, but I am profoundly disappointed with the program's assumptions and results. So I would rather rely on the advice of experience. software is only good for trends, it falls short on predicting exact hp/tq altho it can give you a good ballpark in some cases My current cam choice is something like the following (custom grind, hydraulic roller): 0.557"/0.557" lift, 227 deg exhaust, 221 deg intake (at 0.050"). The purpose of the roller cam is to avoid lobe-wiping - that's what killed my original engine 3 years ago. I would certainly be open to the idea of a mechanical roller, if I could find a cam small enough for my application. And that is, diesel-like torque below 3000 rpm you need to realize that diesel engines normally run much higher compression ratios than gas engines,....torque is the result of a combo of the expansion ratio, cylinder pressure,surface area on the pistons and leverage due to crank stroke and rod length geometry, plus the volumetric efficiency and number of cylinders PLUS THE NUMBER OF POWER STROKES PER SECOND your NEVER GOING TO GET DIESEL LIKE TORQUE AT COMPAREABLE RPM LEVELS BECAUSE YOUR LACKING A GREAT DEAL OF CYLINDER PRESSURE POTENTIAL in a gas ENGINE combo Ill post a combo useing your base parts shortly

I ran HOLLEY/HOOKER 2233HKR side pipes/headers on my 1968 496 corvette and absolutely loved them! http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESHHSCH/Sidemnt.html I had zero problem with exhaust gases getting into the car but I did notice they were louder than stock (LIKE I CHOSE THEM FOR THEIR QUITE! SHEESSS!) I chose them because they were lighter in weight and had long primairys for excellent low rpm torque while having easily removable internal mufflers for quick removal at the track! I truely wish they were available for the 1985 corvette, and (Im sure I will make a custom set when I build my final version,exhaust for my engine swap,bbc 1985 custom corvette) personally I think they add something to the cars appeal/appearance but be aware your girlfrind/wife may detest them as they tend to leave bad burns on girls ankles as they exit the car and allow thier leg to contact the exhaust, guys dont tend to have the same problem except if your wearing shorts because breif contact with blue jeans goes un-notice unless they are synthetic blend that tends to melt, cotton tends to insullate well enought without burning that youll barely notice brief contact. however the wife will [censored] constantly if burnt, so be advised youll need to both point the potential burn hazzard out before and after she enters/exits the car each and every time, and if she still manages to burn herself its still YOUR FAULT! :crazy: we guys tend to look at it as "IF YOUR GOING TO BE DUMB YOU BETTER BE TOUGHT!" and overlook that minor potential problem!

picking a cam for your combo, lets say your building a hot street/strip 383 with a auto trans, alto the process will remain the same with any engine combo, the rpm ranges,etc. will change with the engine combo you chose to build ok lets go thru the basics first the reasonable rpm range with a 383 youll want to stay to a max rpm thats not much more than 4000fpm, thats about 6500rpm with the 3.75 stroke next youll want to find a cam that allows both a reasonable dynamic compression ratio and good volumetric efficiency up to that approximate 6500 rpm red line next youll need to know your true static compression ratio http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm and then dynamic compression ratio http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html next youll want to find a cam with a reasonable overlap / LSA and lift for your application http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap The LSA, or lobe separation angle, is ground into the cam and cannot be changed. It is the angle that separates the intake and exhaust lobe for a particular cylinder, and is measured in camshaft degrees. The intake lobe centerline is measured in crankshaft degrees. The #1 intake lobe centerline is usually between 100° to 110° ATDC and is what you use to degree the cam. The cam manufacturer will publish the specs for the cam based on a given intake lobe centerline. Comp Cams, for instance, produces a large number of cams with 110_° LSA ground 4° advanced, so they list the specs for the cam with a 106° intake lobe centerline. You can calculate the ILC by adding the intake opening angle in °BTDC, the intake closing angle in °ABDC, plus 180° for the distance from TDC to BDC. Divide by 2 and subtract the intake opening angle and you will have the ILC. For example a 12-430-8 Comp Cam lists IO at 34°BTDC, IC at 66° ATDC, so 34 + 66 + 180 = 280. 280/2 = 140. 140 - 34 = 106° ILC. this is some of the best basic cam info youll find so read this first http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (lessons 1-8) then youll want to match the valve lift to the port flow charicteristics http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/ now since your not giving all the info, Ill need to guess at some info. I can tell you right now youll be looking at a cam with close to 230 deg@.o50 lift, wheither it should be slightly larger or smaller in duration, its LSA and wheither the cam needs a longer duration exhaust lobe will be determined by the other parts in your combo and if your going to run nitrous without knowing your true compression ratio,your true cylinder head flow, and your rear gearing and trans stall speed you can,t get a true picture, your cars weight and tire height will also have a noticable effect on the results, so you need to factor in your probable shift points and rpm drop between gears http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm heres how to find the port size that close to ideal http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm]http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm]http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm heres how to find the port length thats close to ideal http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html heres how to get some idea on the header config http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm keep in mind that you don,t want to build an engine that makes 500hp at a narrow peak at 6500rpm if your stall speed and gearing and trans shift points limmit your engine to the 2000rpm-5500rpm range. WELL YOU ASKED WHY!!! AND HOW TO FIGURE IT OUT!!

SBC 407 · Block, 509, +30, Zero deck, Blanked water passages, Clearanced oil ways, Lifter valley vents, ARP main & head studs, Durabond cam & Clevite 77 main bearings. · Crank, Scat 4340 forged steel, 3.75â€, internal balance, Pioneer SFI balancer + ARP bolt. · Rods, Comp. Products 6.00†H beam bronze bushed + ARP bolts Clevite 77 bearings. · Pistons, SRP #4032 flat top, 5cc relief, Speed Pro plasma moly file fit rings. · Complete rotating assembly balanced. Including - Flywheel, Clutch, Balancer & Crank pulley. · Heads, AFR 210 Race Ready, 76cc, 2.080/1.600 valves, drilled for steam. FelPro #1014 gasket. · Cam, Comp. Cams ‘Magnum’ #12-450-8 (286HR) Hydraulic roller. 230/230 @ .050, .377 lift 110 LSA 106 ICL. · Pushrods, Howards Cams heavy wall 5/16†7.4†long. · Rockers, Pro Magnum roller, 1.6, 7/16†stud. · Lifters, Pro Magnum hydraulic roller. AFR Hydr-Rev kit. · Comp Cams Springs #950 + #740 retainers installed at 1.875†· AFR rev kit, AFR stud girdle. · Lube, Melling M99HVS pump, Canton 7qt 5 trap pan with inbuilt windage and scraper, Cooler, Accumulator, oil stat, remote filter. · Holley 800cfm #4780C, 1†spacer, Victor Jr single plane. · Static CR 10.32, Dynamic CR 7.9. · Quench 0.0415†(Gasket .039†+ .0025†down hole). · MSD Pro Billet Street Dizzy, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD 8,5mm leads. After several pulls followed by adjustment and re-jetting we arrived at:- RPM BHP Torque 3800 367.3 507.7 3900 384.0 517.1 4000 395.1 518.8 4100 407.9 522.5 4200 418.9 523.8 4300 429.4 524.5 4400 439.6 524.7 4500 449.6 524.7 4600 462.1 527.6 4700 467.4 522.3 4800 476.6 521.5 4900 485.4 520.3 5000 489.2 513.9 5100 498.5 513.4 5200 496.0 501.0 5300 506.1 501.5 5400 508.4 494.5 5500 508.7 485.8 5600 505.6 474.2 5700 505.8 466.0 5800 505.8 458.0 5900 494.6 440.3 6000 491.9 430.6 its not my engine but I thought you guys would like the combo and results info notice that hes not running a huge cam, or crazy high compression, or extreme lift, but he is running a good set of high flow heads and a well matched combo like the last post I had suggests with a dynamic compression ratio close to 8:1 and the cams durration matches the rpm range, damn similar to the cam Im running, (but closer LSA since hes running a carb not EFI ) Id like to point out something here! LOOK CLOSELY AT THE TORQUE CURVE RPM BHP Torque 3800 367.3 507.7 3900 384.0 517.1 4000 395.1 518.8 4100 407.9 522.5 4200 418.9 523.8 4300 429.4 524.5 4400 439.6 524.7 4500 449.6 524.7 4600 462.1 527.6 4700 467.4 522.3 4800 476.6 521.5 4900 485.4 520.3 5000 489.2 513.9 5100 498.5 513.4 5200 496.0 501.0 5300 506.1 501.5 5400 508.4 494.5 5500 508.7 485.8 5600 505.6 474.2 5700 505.8 466.0 5800 505.8 458.0 5900 494.6 440.3 6000 491.9 430.6 Id like to point out something here to those of you who keep insisting that your required to run small ports sizes and dual plane intakes to make decent mid range torque look closely at what the combo uses Heads, AFR 210 Race Ready, 76cc, 2.080/1.600 valves, drilled for steam. FelPro #1014 gasket. · Cam, Comp. Cams ‘Magnum’ #12-450-8 (286HR) Hydraulic roller. 230/230 @ .050, .377 lift 110 LSA 106 ICL. Holley 800cfm #4780C, 1†spacer, Victor Jr single plane like IVE CONSTANTLY SAID, ITS THE CAM AND PROPERLY MATCHED COMPRESSION RATIO THAT HAS THE LARGEST EFFECT ON THE ENGINES TORQUE POTENTIAL, while its true that smaller ports can increase the volumetric efficiency at low rpms, they are not always required, and the tend to hurt the high rpm performance, you also don,t need a great deal of duration in the cam you pick,if the heads your useing flow decently, notice hes only running 230 @.050 lift LARGE ports matched to the correct compression ratio and cam can make very good torque. as always its the total combo OF PARTS and how the parts match the displacement and intended rpm range, NOT the result of a SINGLE PART choice!

BREAK-IN" PROCEDURES FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES perhaps this will help I normally pour it in just before starting the engines cam break in,procedure. because I want to make sure that nothing in the oil/E.O.S. mix can settle out from sitting over a long period of time. now if your running a flat tappet cam you should have also used a moly cam lube on the lobes and be useing a mineral base oil for the break-in procedure, and youll need to do an oil and filter change after about the first 3-4 hours running time to remove that moly cam lube from the engine after its served its purpose of protecting the cams lobes and lifters at start up, aND AS THE LOBES/LIFTERS LAPPED IN. MOSTLY to prevent that moly grease and E.O.S from potentially partially clogging the filter after that mix cools down,but also because both those lubes might leave deposites in the combustion chamber ,over time that might aggravate detonation. even G.M. suggests that E.O.S. is not a great long term oil suppliment, and that its main function is to add extra oil film strength durring new engine break in. 1052367 ENGOILSUP EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube<BR>Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication don,t forget a few magnets in the oil pan goes a long way towards trapping unwanted metalic dust formed from the cam and rings lapping in durring break-in that might otherwise get imbedded in your bearings or cause other problems heres the magnets I use in every engine http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0035 This engine has been rebuilt to give long, satisfactory service. Protect your investment by following these instructions before installing or starting the engine. Suggested PreCAUTIONs for Remanufactured Engines This engine has been carefully remanufactured to precision standards, and will perform properly if certain steps are taken by the mechanic making the installation. Following is a list of causes for a remanufactured engine to fail early in service, and suggested procedures to prevent failure. When a properly remanufactured engine fails to give satisfactory service, it is usually due to: burning piston heads caused by detonation, pre-ignition or "lugging"; piston scuffing or seizing usually caused by overheating or excess fuel; bearing and crankshaft wear caused by under-lubrication, dirt or coolant seepage; excessive piston and cylinder wear caused by dirt, ineffective air filtering, coolant seepage or excessively rich, air-fuel ratio. The customer and the remanufacturer have a mutual interest in this engine. We both want it to perform and give long and satisfactory life. We recommend these precautions: Be sure to prime the oil pump, oil lines and fill the oil filters with oil using an auxiliary pump, operating the internal oil pump with a hand drill, or an external pressure tank connected to the oil pressure gauge or sending unit fitting before starting the engine. It is desirable to fill the crankcase in this manner. If using an air pressure tank be sure it does not run out of oil and blow air through the lines. Proper air-fuel ratio is vital in today's engines. Be sure the carburetor or fuel injection system has been remanufactured to manufacturer's specifications. Manifold and cylinder head surfaces should be checked and in good condition (resurface if necessary). Be sure the cylinder heads and manifolds are torqued and retorqued in proper sequence if required. Air seepage can cause lean air-fuel ratio which causes detonation. Check fuel pump for proper pressure. Ignition or diesel fuel injection system should be properly serviced or calibrated, and engine timing corrected. Proper valve lash or clearance is very important. Be sure to use spark plugs of the correct heat range and gap as specified by the engine manufacturer. Check electronic sensors and sending units for proper operation. Vacuum lines must be properly routed and connected to the appropriate fittings to ensure operation of emission control devices and related engine controls. Check the exhaust thermostat control (commonly called the heat riser) to be certain it is free and operating properly. Check the exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR valve) for proper operation. Clean the intake manifold to remove deposits from the various passages. Rebuild or replace the radiator and hose lines to ensure they are free from deposits so that the cooling system can function properly. Restrictions can cause overheating. Thermostats should be checked or replaced with one of the correct temperature. Use the proper pressure cap as specified by the engine manufacturer, and make sure it is properly seated. Important - replace filter elements. Thoroughly check engine accessories which are to be reused. Clean them internally and externally before installing. The coolant used should be compatible with aluminum engine components and blended to a mixture of no more than 60% antifreeze and 40% water. We recommend that a good sealer with rust inhibitors be added to the cooling system. This will tend to prevent rust and scale deposits and guard against coolant seepage. Before releasing the engine for regular service, check the air-fuel ratio. Caution the driver against "lugging." RECOMMENDED "BREAK-IN" PROCEDURES FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES Protect the investment you have in your engine. Take the time to read and follow these recommendations. CAUTION Before starting the engine for the first time, be sure it has been properly pre-lubricated. Never add cold water to the cooling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature. Start engine and run at fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check the oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though coolant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. Adjust tappets, if required, carburetor and ignition timing. If the coolant should "boil over," stop engine and allow to cool. Then start again and proceed as above. When required retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to engine manufacturer's specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary. Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 MPH in "drive" range or select the proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically accelerate to 50 MPH and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above. NOTE: Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "breaking-in" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and ring assemblies. Engine or Vehicle Service Recommendations Passenger Cars Drive normally but not at continuous high speeds or under heavy loads for the first 500 miles. Change oil and filters after 500 miles. Trucks Operate the vehicle with light loads up to 500 miles and avoid "lugging." Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this period is advisable. Change oil and filters after 500 miles of service. Industrial Engines Follow the above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours. Change oil and filters after approximately 20 hours of operation. As required by the engine or gasket manufacturer, after 1000 miles of service, retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Readjust tappets when required. We suggest this be done again after 5000 miles. We know that this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. DESIGNATION, IDENTIFICATION AND DESCRIPTIONS OF OIL CATEGORIES API Engine Service Description Letter Designations: SA, SB, SC, CA, CB Oils with this designation are considered obsolete and should not be used unless specifically authorized by the engine manufacturer. Letter Designation: SD 1968 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service ...typical of gasoline engines in 1968 - 1970 models of passenger cars and some trucks operating under engine manufacturer's warranties in effect during those model years. Oils designed for this service provide more protection against high - and low-temperature engine deposits, wear, rust, and corrosion in gasoline engines than oils which are satisfactory for API Engine Service Categories SC and may be used when category SC is recommended. Letter Designation: SE 1972 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service ...typical of gasoline engines in passenger cars and some trucks beginning with 1972 and certain 1971 models operating under engine manufacturer's warranties. Oils designed for this service provide more protection against oil oxidation, high temperature engine deposits, rust and corrosion in gasoline engines than oils which are satisfactory for API Engine Service Categories SD or SC and may be used when either of these categories is recommended. Letter Designation: SF 1980 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service ...typical of gasoline engines in passenger cars and some trucks beginning with 1980 - 1988 model years operating under engine manufacturer's recommended maintenance procedures. Oils developed for this service provide increased oxidation stability and improved anti-wear performance relative to oils that meet the minimum requirements for API Service Category SE. These oils provide protection against engine deposits, rust and corrosion. Oils meeting API Service Category SF may be used where categories SE, SD or SC are recommended. Letter Designation: SG 1989 Gasoline Engine Service - Service typical of gasoline engines in present passenger cars, vans and light trucks operating under manufacturer's recommended maintenance procedures. Category SG quality oils include the performance properties of API Service Category CC. (Certain manufacturers of gasoline engines require oils also meeting API Service Category CD). Oils developed for this service provide improved control of engine deposits, oil oxidation and engine wear relative to oils developed for previous categories. These oils also provide protection against rust and corrosion. Oils meeting API Service Category SG may be used where categories SF, SE, SF/CC or SE/CC are recommended. SH This oil classification came to the industry in 1992 to replace the SG oil and provide better protection against rust, oxidation, sludge, varnish as well as providing extended component life expectancy. It is currently still available, however it is obsolete for PCMO licensing. It can be used only with API CF, CF-2, DF-4 and CG-4 when displayed in the API service symbol and the C category appears first. SJ This oil classification came to the industry in 1996 to replace the SH oil with continued refinements to the SH oil. It is currently available and acceptable for use in engines manufactured previous to the year 2,000. ILSAC GF-3 (ILSAC, International Lubrication Standardization & Approval Committee) This oil meets the current automotive manufacturer requirements for their newest lines of engines and will be used in 2,000 automotive engines. There were earlier versions used before the year 2000. The ISLAC grades are described as SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30. These oils have improved overall oil performance while increasing fuel economy while providing emission systems protection. Letter Designation: CC Moderate Duty Diesel and Gasoline Engine Service - Service typical of certain naturally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged diesel engines operated in moderate to server-duty service and certain heavy-duty gasoline engine. Oils designed for this service provide protection from high-temperature deposits and bearing corrosion in these diesels and also from rust corrosion, and low-temperature deposits in gasoline engines. These oils were introduced in 1961. Letter Designation: CD Severe Duty Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of certain naturally aspirated turbocharged or supercharged diesel engines where highly effective control of wear and deposits is vital or when using fuels of wide quality range including high sulfur fuels. Oils designed for this service were introduced in 1955 and provide protection from bearing corrosion and from high-temperature deposits in these diesel engines. Letter Designation: CD-II Severe Duty Two-Stroke Cyclic Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of two-stroke cycle diesel engines requiring highly-effective control over wear and deposits. Oils designed for this service also meet all performance requirements of API Service Category CD. Letter Designation: CE Severe Duty Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of certain naturally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged heavy duty diesel engines manufactured since 1983 and operated under both low speed - high load and high speed - high load conditions. Oils designed for this service must meet the requirements of API Engine Service Category CC and CD. LUBRICANT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR "BREAKING-IN" REMANUFACTURED ENGINES Follow the recommendations of the engine manufacturer for the proper viscosity and type of oil to be used during and after the "break-in" period. It is important to use heavy-duty detergent oils which contain an EP (extreme pressure) additive right from the start. Special "break-in" oils should not be used unless specified by the manufacturer. Older engines without oil filters may require special considerations, such as the use of non-detergent oils unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. Consult the owner's or service manual for the latest manufacturer's recommendation on oil selection. See the accompanying chart for additional information on the type of engine oils currently in production and available for use with today's engines SAE Motor Oil Viscosity Classifications Since 1911, the petroleum industry has used the SAE Crankcase Oil Viscosity Classification System to describe and classify motor oils according to their ability to flow at various temperatures. The grades in common used today are: 5W, 10W, 15W, 20, 30, 40 and 50. The "W" indicates the oil is suitable for use during low ambient temperatures such as during the winter months. For instance, oils designated at 5W-30 provide adequate lubrications at -13°F (-25°C). Multigrade oils are able to maintain their viscosity over a wide range of temperatures. An oil designated as 10W-40 performs as well as a 10W designated oil at low temperatures, and as well as a single grade 40 designated oil at high temperatures. Synthetic Motor Oils The introduction of synthetic motor oils dates back to World War II and they are often described as the "oil of the future." Synthetic oils are man made, manufactured in a laboratory rather than pumped out of the ground and refined. They offer a variety of advantages over natural oils from better fuel economy, stability over a wide range of temperatures and operating conditions and longevity. However, the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the "break-in" period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between moving components is not desirable for a "break-in" oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper "break-in" of piston and piston rings. AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service. Thereafter it is up to the vehicle owner to weight the cost of more expensive synthetic motor oils, manufacturer's oil classification recommendations and drain intervals. http://www.aera.org/consumer/breakin.htm Abbreviations and Symbols API - American Petroleum Institute SAE - The Society of Automotive Engineers Step Box 1) Safety first! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall out of gear. 2) Be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system. 3) Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM’s, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 min. 4) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible. 5) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary. 6) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing according to the timing specifications. 7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle of high RPM. 8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. 9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. 10) Change the oil and filter with recommended oil (10w30SG in most cases) and filter. 11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM’s (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. 12) Change oil and filter again. 13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!

heres a tool list that might come in handy. I have many but not all the tools listed (IM WORKING ON IT)and yeah I more than likely left a few important ones off the quick list A set of quick release tools for late model gm fuel lines and a/c line disconnects. ACETYLENE TORCH ADJUSTABLE LENGTH PUSH ROD ADJUSTABLE POINTER , Adjustable stand, for dial indicator Assorted pliers/vise grips Air compressor Air ratchet Allen wrenches ASK QUESTIONS ASSORTED FILES ASSORTED SOCKETS,OPEN AND BOX WRENCHES 1/2",3/8".1/4" DRIVE Ball joint press tools Ball joint separator forks Battery charger(full size shop type) Bench grinder w/ wire wheel Big huge screwdriver which doubles as a pry bar BORE GAUGE Brake spring pliers and retaining spring tool CAM BEARING INSTALLER CAM DEGREE WHEEL CAM HANDLE CARBIDE BURRS CC Buret Kit/PLUS STAND Checking springs chisels (assorted sizes/types) clamp for compressing calipers CLUTCH PILOT Coil spring compressors Compression tester COMMON SENSE CRANK SOCKETS Creeper Crows feet CYLINDER HONE DENT PULLER DEPTH GAUGE Dial indicator, Die grinder Differential Set-up Kit Distributor wrench DRIFT PUNCHES (assorted sizes/types) Drain pans all sizes Dremel tool set to cut rivets etc. DRILL PRESS Drop light (florescent preferred) Dwell meter for the older cars EASY OUTS ELECTRIC SOLDER GUN Electrical tape Engine hoist ENGINE LEVELER ENGINE STAND Feeler Gages FIRE EXTINGUISHER Flexible dwell key for point distributors FREEZE PLUG INSTALLER FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE Full set of assorted hammers all the way up to 5 lb hand held full set of tap and dies metric and standard Full set of torqze tip screw drivers and sockets male and female all sizes Full size vice Gasket scraper Gear Pullers GM disk brake caliper Allen key 3/8 and 5/16 Grease gun Harmonic balancer puller HARMONIC BALLANCER INSTALLER HONING STONE Jack stands and a 2 1/2 -3 ton full size service floor jack JEWELERS FILES LAPTOP COMPUTER Leakdown tester LIFTER BORE HONE LIFTER GROOVE TOOL LUIS TOOL Magnet MAGNETIC PICK UP TOOL MAGNIFYING GLASS MANUAL LUBE PUMP MICROMETERS MIG WELDER Mini Valve Spring Tester MIRROR Multimeter Normal screwdrivers all sizes NUT SPLITTER OIL CAN Oil filter and regular spin on filter wrenches. Oil filter wrench Oil Pump Primers ONE NEW SOLID LIFTER PB BLASTER OIL Pipe cutter PISTON RING COMPRESSOR Piston stop, Pitman arm puller Plasma cutter PLASTIC HAMMER Pneumatic chisel Pneumatic impact guns 3/8 and 1/2 drive Pressure bleeder for brakes PRY BAR PUSHROD CHECKER Putty knife Ramps Rear caliper piston turning tool REFERENCE MANUALS RIFLE CLEANING ROD AND BRUSHES FOR OIL PASSAGES Ring expander pliers RING GAP FILER Rochester idle mixture adjusting tool ROD BOLT GUIDES ROD BOLT STRETCH GAUGE SCAN SOFTWARE Sledge or mall hammer SMALL FLASH LIGHT Snap ring pliers internal and external SPRING COMPRESSOR Standard set of drift pin punches,alignment punches,[censored] and centering punches. Steering column lock plate compressor Steering wheel puller Stethoscope STUD INSTALLER TAPE MEASURE Test light Three or four of every size socket and wrenches Timing light Tire Pressure Gauges TORQUE WRENCH Transmission jack Tubing cutter Tubing flare tool Tubing bender Utility knife VACUUM GAUGE Wire crimper Wheel chocks (keep cars from rolling) GOOD KNOWLEDGEABLE FRIENDS, especially ones with time, spare parts and skill [/b] Additional items that may come in handy - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gasket scraper Plasma cutter Drill press Allen wrenches 12pt sockets Deep sockets Impact sockets Compressor Retracting extension cord Safety glasses Bench grinder w/ wire wheel Die grinder Wire crimper Valve spring compressor Breaker bar Distributor wrench Taps & dies Oil filter wrench Line wrenches Crows feet Shorty wrenches Tire iron Cutting torch FIRE EXTINGUISHER Throw-away vinyl gloves Plastic zip-lock bags Permanent marker Duct tape Electrical tape Torque wrench Oil pump primer Speed wrench Carburetor stand Tire pressure gauge Compression gauge Sandblaster Paint gun Utility knife Transmission jack Mallet Stethoscope

heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build (is everything clean and degreased before you start? Do you have all the tools youll need?) this is a start.... there are other things to check., remember, if your not sure ask questions BEFRORE assembly NOT AFTER PART FAILURE, BELEIVE ME ITS CHEAPER THAT WAY heads are the pushrods perfectly strait? do the pushrods flow oil? rocker studs/guides torqued correctly? do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use? have the heads been pocket ported? combustion chambers unshrouded? intake ports gasket matched" are the valve guides cut to the correct length? are the heads pocket ported? is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct? are the valve guide oil seals installed? is there valve spring seats installed? inner damper springs installed? spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.) oil return holes cleaned of casting flash? were steam holes in heads necessary? were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber? rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ? retainer to valve guide clearances? spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure? valve lash/preload ? are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia. keeper the correct angle? style? size? valve seats the correct angles? valves back cut? valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam. strait? rockers the correct ratio? were the valve to valve guide clearances checked? were the heads milled? did the head gasket overlap the bore? what are your valve train clearances? is the rocker arm geometry correct! chambers CC,ed port work..(some steps optional) (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias block is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/ is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/ is the pick-up brazed to the pump body? has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension? have you carefully checked the true compression? have you carefully computed the true dynamic compression? is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears) has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly? has the block been aline honed? is the crank strait? are the damper install keyway and threads ok? counter weights clearanced? MAGNAFLUXED? OIL PASSAGES CLEANED? GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY? has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked? piston to valve clearances checked? piston to bore clearances? TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? what were the piston ring to slot clearances? RING GAPS? were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in? were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove? what were the back clearance on the rings? were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag? were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap? total cam lift and remaining clearanceS? WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN? main bearing clearances? what is the main bearing run-out clearance piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?) head gasket to coolent holes checked? valve to piston clearance with the cam and heads installed? magnets installed? rod bolt to block clearances? what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached? are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?) did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment? what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance?? are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper? did you use moly lube to assemble? correct bearing crush? did you pre-lube before start-up? did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely? was the distributor oil flow mod done? was the correct style distributor gear used? did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance? did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight? if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons? was the engine ballanced? cam button installed?, and lock plate installed? were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait? piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed? were the rods checked for length? is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down? did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft? was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots) does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed? whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance? is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok? is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/ are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/ what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts? were the bores honed with a torque plate in place? was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used? was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED? was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/ were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow? were the lifter bores checked? cam to timing cover clearance? cam journal to cam bearing clearances? was the cam journal run-out checked? was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks? has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked? does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen? was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED? is the deck square/level? whats the cross hatch hone angle? what grit hone was used? are all the threads clean/clear? brass freeze plugs installed? block painted? do the oil return holes have screens epoxied in place if necessary besides the normal checks for deck height, line hone,and splayed main caps, making sure all the threaded holes are correct, the cylinders honed lifter bores are correct, theres the little things, I paint the inside surfaces of my blocks with http://www.glyptal.com/1209_black_enamel.htm to lock in place any micro dust left after the last total cleaning before assembly, to speed the oil flow back to the oil pan and help prevent corrosion BTW I bought 16 rubber corks to push into the lifter bores to prevent paint entering the lifter bores durring the painting, I placed 16 mini-screw eyes in the corks and strung them on a bead chain to keep from loseing them while in storage or in use! http://www.camtattoo.com/camshop/home.html?target=Piercing_SuppliesCorks_zg_Receiving_Tubes.html Ive used BOTH RUSTOLEUM (BRITE YELLOW) and Glyptal but lately just several coats of BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM ON OVER THE glyptal EPOXY BASE COAT,COVERED BYE BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM APPLIED ON THE TOTALLY CLEANED AND DEGREASED AND DRIED BLOCK, (BTW A TOTAL DEGREASE OF THE BLOCK WITH ACETONE,and LINT FREE CLOTH, AND A heat gun or hair drier to totally dry the block just before cleaning helps the paint get a firm grip on the block surface) and dont forget you should remember the option to J&B EPOXY a MAGNET in the lifter gallery BEFORE painting the surfaces if you want to permenantly afix it on the block. (which do a great job at picking up micro metalic dust) http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet1.html

YOU DO GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR BUT IF YOUR JUST LOOKING TO GET TRENDS THE $40 DD-2000 IS A GREAT DEAL HERES SOME CHOICES http://www.rapidline.com/pcver.htm http://www.donsautopages.co.nz/software.htm http://www.motionsoftware.com/minigide.htm http://www.proracingsim.com/ http://www.engineprosoft.com/ http://www.virtualengine2000.com/ http://www.themustangshop.com/downloads.cfm just keep in mind software is good for showing potential trends, and pointing out flaws in combos,ITS NOT RELIABLE FOR PREDICTING ACTUAL RESULTS BECAUSE THE QUALITY OF THE ENGINE PARTS,TOLLERANCES.AND CARE OF ASSEMBLY plus the limits of the software itself make its results only an educated GUESS

"did I overdue it? " no ! in fact it it appears to be about perfectly matched to the cam and aluminum heads, if your running temp is normally under 200 degrees http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-433-8 heres your cam with that cam retarded 4 degrees you should be almost able to run lower than 93 octane if your ignition timing comes in slow enough, because my computer shows about a 7.9 dynamic compression from that cam and a static cpr of 11.15:1 btw I normally run a crower 00471 hydrolic roller in similar engine builds look at the specs http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=35&y=13 and yes I also tend to install it retarded a few degrees

[lets look at a 350 with either 8:1 like you would normally run in a supercharged engine or 10:1 like youll want to run in a non-supercharged engine,with a cam that matches that 10:1 compression ratio in both combos will it run? can I use it? will I be able to drive around town? yes! will it make decent torque? no! theres not a chance in $%^$% that it will make good tq, at 8:`1 compression,and heres why the work your engine can do or the rate at which torque can be applied is directly related the both the average rpm range and average torque applied, and torque is basically the result of cylinder pressure. lets look at the differance between an engine set up to run the correct dynamic compression and a low static compression ratio, both with a average performance cam. now like I stated,lets pick a 350 chevy and a comp. cams xe274 cam. heres the cam http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-246-3 heres a chart with piston location in crank degrees http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf heres a compression STATIC ratio calc. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm heres a DYNAMIC CPR CALC. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html heres things to read carefully http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://www.crossedflags.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=6490 now I could get technical in the extreme and work it out for you to the exact psi for a given cylinderhead and gasket, etc. but the basic concept here is that if you compare the differance in dynamic compressed volume vs expanded cylinder volume youll find aproximately this an 8:1 STATIC compression engine with that cam should have aproximately a 6.36:1 dynamic compression ratio while a correctly matched 10:1 STATIC compression ratio with that cam would have approximately a 7.9 dynamic compression ratio or the 8:1 cpr engine have about 25% less cylinder pressure. now on the surface youll think thats a 25% lower cylinder pressure but because the cylinder volume is significantly less in the higher compression engine when the ignition fires the true differance between the two engines effective working cylinder pressure is more than 30%. so its not at all unlikely that a 10:1 compression engine that made 350 ft lbs of tq would make a minimum of 30% less at about 245 ft lbs with that cam thats badly matched to the compression available in the non-supercharged 8:1 compression engine. remember the cylinder pressure in a supercharged engine is significantly increased with the super charger boost.and a 8:1 compression engine needs that boost to effectively make the correct cylinder pressure and tq, yet without that boost it has little potential to build cylinder pressure effectively. but once supercharged,it gains extra power due to the greater volume of fuel/air mix burned. remember that formula fo hp? torque x rpm /5252= horsepower well given the 30% PLUS loss in torque that lower compression is a significant handicap to making the necessary cylinder pressure(torque) and yes Im well aware that you should only gain or lose about 8%-10% if the cam is a reasonable match to the lower compression ratio due solely to the loss in cylinder pressure alone! but if you miss match the cam and it bleeds off significant cylinder pressure due to a delayed intake valve closeing in relation to the piston possition the engine performance falls far faster that the loss of compression alone would normally cause!

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=553481&Forum=UBB64&Words=webber&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=551251&Search=true#Post553481 you might want too look this over

heres what I bought for my efi bbc swap in the current corvette engine swap yeah its going to cost me about 20-25 hp over a converted kinsler injection but it will also fit under the hood and can still make about 700hp befor the intake starts to limit the engine without porting it

first you can on occasionally buy those bbc constant flow mechanical injection units for about $1500-$2500 used on EBAY second you can convert to EFI for under $1000 if you do the work third if your willing to use vertical stacks those are more comon systems and sell used for under $1000 frequently fourth http://www.azspeed-marine.com/azspeed/gmraup.html http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Photos/accp.html

it can be built, Id use the HOLLEY base simply because its cheaper and flows better than any heads Ive seen,but youll have one huge problem, even the mono blade throttle bodies max out at about 1250cfm while the intake flows well over 2000cfm you might want to think it over for several reasons heres a bbc constant flow injection systtem I convered to EFI on my 1968 corvette, converted too EFI the intake is available now, it makes great torque, has a better throttle responce than any comom plenum efi can IVE also built and tested my own design of custom sbc EFI intake like the one below, so having worked with both Id say a BBC needs the other design or twin throttle bodies

sure ID be glad too! AND I WILL AS SOON AS ITS COMPLETE, but since moneys tight and im still unable to stand as Im recovering from ankle surgery it will be awhile I sorry to say, trust me I want to complete the project badly, but reality keeps getting in the way for me just like it does for some of you gentelmen

http://www.hastingsinc.com/Service%20Tips/cylinder_bore_refinishing.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar90058.htm http://www.aera.org/Tech/tb687r.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar110060.htm http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar129832.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us20114.htm http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar49852.htm http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/honing98.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb110242.htm http://www.reconengines.com/clip7.html http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdcylinderbores.htm http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/82438/ http://www.sporttruck.com/howto/40619/

some of you are forgetting that the bbc potentiall has far better flowing heads and larger ports than the sbc engines and can potentialy make a good deal more hp if the correctly matched parts are used. its not at all unusual for correctly ported bbc heads to allow flow numbers that sbc heads can only dream about, look even stock iron oval port heads once ported can moke way over 650hp http://home.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/patrick_budd_article.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/96198/index7.html http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html

yes it maters, how the intake flows! a restricted intake does have a negative net effect on the engines power output compared to a unrestricted intake ,EVEN UNDER BOOST!

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