grumpyvette

don,t forget you need the fuel rail assembly and a small dia. HEI type dist. the holley 890-160 is the correct one for a corvette, but any camaro remote coil mount hei small dia. can usually be made to work

I may be one of the few who has run and tested most of the available EFI intakes, TPI both with and without high flow base and runners, the SUPER ram,THE mini ram,the standard single plane intake modified for EFI, and the factory holley EFI single plane intake, and tested them, the STEALTH RAM HAS THE MOST POTENTIAL,OF ANY I TESTED ..PERIOD! and makes excellent power in exactly the right rpm band 3500rpm-6500rpm PLUS for max power useing the 350-406 size sbc Ive tested them on when anything close to the correct cam and compression is used BTW theres even more flow to be had with mild porting to the intake runners, the stock stealthram flow enough air for well over 500hp but mild port work allows it to flow enough air voluum to support close to 600hp heres some data you might use http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0307htp_holleystealth/ http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2826 http://www.crossedflags.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=4411 heres a stealth ram with a custom plenum like I run to fit under my C4 corvettes hood http://www.fasterdeals.com/vette/engine1.jpg BTW heres an EMAIL I GOT LAST WEEK Paul, I just finished installing the Stealth Ram and your custom plenum on my 89 Vette. I always wanted something different when I opened the hood and now I have it. The performance is awesome! I want to thank you for your efforts in making this a reality! I am very happy with your plenum and the end results. Feel free to use me as a reference if you would like. Thanks again for your hard work! John Dwyer

"by the way, 2 of those sites just copied the numbers from the first site " true , but so few people research the sub-link info I felt it would help

yes it appears to be just about correct, keep in mind I will be shorting it so I CAN USE IT IN MY BBC ENGINE SWAP IN MY CORVETTTE but I will also be useing it to transfer 600-700hp so that 4" dia. is likely to be usefull THANKS AGAIN,.. ITS NICE TO HAVE FELLOW HOTRODDERS HELP EACH OTHER OUT AND ITS REALLY APPRECIATED!!!!!

http://www.angelfire.com/ar/dw42/engfyi.htm http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.jeepgod.net/enginewts.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7062/engine.html http://www.transmissioncenter.net/TransmissionMeasurements.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm

spdsk8r thank you! the driveshaft arrived today!

and keep in mind, your not the only one on a limited budget! I broke my ankle 26 months ago and have not been able to work since! "Im still recovering from the SECOND surgical rebuild of my ankle" I have a project corvette that Im SLOWLY gathering the parts for the necessary 600hp/600ftlbs,big block engine, dana 60 rear suspension,4L80e trans, swap to make it into my dream car, trust me, a larger budget would help a great deal. but one piece of advice that Ive learned the HARD WAY OVER YEARS AND HUNDREDS OF PROJECTS, " if your going to have the kind of results that make you proud of the car you built,youll need too make a list of the parts youll need to realistically build your dream car, then aquire those parts as the budget allows, NEVER SUBSTITUTE PARTS that were a" DEAL" simply because they were cheaper, thats the number one most comon mistake! after just not doing any homework and buying random ("cool" but totally mis-matched parts)youll spend the least total amount of money and get the best results by only buying the correct parts,ONCE, buying parts you need to upgrade later is flat out a waste of time and money

I sent the money yesterday

I get that question every week, and every case differs quite a bit, especially in the sbc cylinder heads potential your talking about and costs envolved, but in most cases lets face facts those stock sbc iron heads or small port aluminum performance heads, just won,t get you to your goals economically now that even includes some aluminum ones, even after the expensive port work they don,t measure up to the better large port aftermarket performance cylinder heads, yes your heads can be ported by a reputable shop, and yes Im aware you just payed $400 or $600 or even $1000 to get those race ready heads from (EBAY,XYZ SPEED & CUSTOM,ETC. and in fact those heads may be exactly what you really need and they don,t need any further work to reach your goals, so keep that in mind but heres the problem,if your looking for max performance, and by that im assuming youll want, 470hp plus, lets assume you can sell those heads for about $600-$800 IF THERE IN GOOD SHAPE, AND IT COSTS ABOUT $600-$1000 FOR A GOOD CAREFULLY DONE PORTING JOB, THAT INCLUDES NEW SPRINGS,CLEARANCE WORK,ETC.! your looking at about either spending $600-$1000 to get them set up correctly or selling them and adding $600-$1000 exactly the same out of pocket expence for $1200-$1800 new better flowing heads, either way your adding $600-$1000 exactly the same out of pocket expence but buy selling the heads and starting with better heads like the AFR or DART PRO-1,PRO-LIGHTNINGS,ETC,you find, some or all of the following advantages, thicker castings,new less stressed heads, better port designs, larger or more efficient ports, larger or lighter weight valves,better quality springs, greater clearances,more efficient combustion chambers,an generally an easy gain in overall potential. now if your looking for less than about 450hp the stock or mildly ported and reworked heads may be fine as they are! example of porting costs http://www.castheads.com/heads_folder/1heads_set.html http://www.chrracingproducts.com/ and heres something few shops will tell you " the intake and exhaust flow, and the cam you match to them, can easilly limit the air flow reaching the cylinder heads to such a great extent than no amount of port work on the heads will have a major beneficial effect"

I am runing the trickflow heads on mine, every comparison of the standard street edelbrock heads show the trickflows are a better hp/tq production head, HOWEVER edelbrock does make better high hp heads if your looking for them, and Id swap in an instant for these

spdsk8r I still have not recieved the driveshaft or the shipping cost? please contact me if your having a problem shipping it, as I said before just let me know the shipping cost? ill send a cashiers check/money order or other payment prlangevin@hotmail.com

I seriously doubt a soldering iron gets hot enough to melt silver solder correctly, normal solder is not going to stick or hold

careful work with a flat file on the pickup tube to slightly reduce its outside dia. is what I do first, I then install the pump in a vise useing wood to pad the jaws and find a open end wrench that JUST fits the pickup tube shoulder and place it their then just a few taps on the wrench drives the tube into the pump body I normally use a oxy-acetolee torch to braze the tube into place,J&B weld will not hold up! I also use these AFTER BRAZEING http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=107138&prmenbr=361 btw if you use this use a LOCK NUT ON THE ASSEMBLY BOLT, the kind with the nylon ring in the threads works well.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=146671&prmenbr=361 I bought two of these (from chevy) this year alone!,(you can,t correctly build one for this much) they make a good starting place if your on a limited budget, just some port work a cam swap headers and an air gap intake will get you an honest 280hp-300hp remember the stock tpi engine only puts out (245hp/330tq) GM Goodwrench 350 Crate Engine View larger image Product images may differ from actual product appearance. This universal 350ci engine uses a brand new block and can be used as a replacement for most GM vehicles from 1970-85. It produces 260hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque with a 4bbl carb and headers. It can be used as a replacement or as a retrofit into almost any vehicle. This brand new crate engine comes with a GM warranty and is covered for 3 years or 50,000 miles in applicable GM vehicles only. Specifications: 4 bolt main with 2 piece rear main seal Cast iron crankshaft LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods Cast pistons (dished) Hydraulic flat tappet cam, (.383''/.401'') and a 112° lobe separation Cast iron cylinder heads with 76cc chambers 8.5:1 compression ratio Left and right hand dipstick 4 quart oil pan Timing tabs for a 6-3/4'' or an 8'' balancer

oil pump pick-ups don,t normally just slide in. you MUST remove the spring from the bye-pass system in the pump BEFORE welding or brazeing (I prefer brazeing or silver soldering because it tends too allow metal to flow around and seal the pickup tube better than a tack weld does, sealing off even minor posiable air leaks in the oil pump feed. and don,t drop the hot pickup/oil pump cover in water to cool it it can slightly warp the mounting surface, allow it to air cool) and you MUST be very sure the pump pickup is 3/8"-1/2" above the oil pan floor when the pump is installed with the oil pan in place,(don,t forget to reinstall the bye-pass spring or to install the high pressure spring) http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1763&prmenbr=361 most problems are caused by not brazeing the pickup so its at least 3/8" above the oil pan floor or failling to remove the spring durring the welding/brazeing process (that un-tempers and weakens it!) oh and while talking oil pumps don,t forger to loctite the mounting bolt/stud and nut that holds it in place and to radias the oil passage entrance into the main cap, oh and be very sure that the pickup does not extend into the pump enough to jam the impeller gears if your useing a 5 bolt bbc style pump http://users.erols.com/jyavins/solder.htm http://www.tinmantech.com/html/faq_brazing_versus_soldering.html http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm silver soldering is basically lower temp brazeing , the soldering metal flows over the surface and into micro cracks in the surace of the other metal forming a almost unremoveable bond to the other metals surface it allows you to stick iron to steel or brass to steel, it works more or less like normal solder does on copper but at higher temps and has a much stronger grip in addition too working on iron and steel http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0001 one of these in each corner of the oil pan is a big help in capturing metalic dust The bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8 and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030 thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger groove with no problems deep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the cam This procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008887.html BTW I always stick four of these magnets in the corners of the oil pan sump , you will be amazed at how much metalic dust they pick out of the oil and keep from getting to your bearings,(either one works fine) these are NOT THE REFRIFERATOR MAGNETS YOU PLAYED WITH AS A KID!....ONE OF THESE CAN PICK UP A CYLINDER HEAD high volume oil pumps are a part of a SYSTEM,of matched parts,you should not run JUST a high volume oil pump high volume oil pumps are designed to be run in engines with a windage screen that speeds the oils return to the pump AND a BAFFLED oil pan that has at least 6 qts with 7-9 qts being even better,the stock big block pump SHOULD WORK FINE IF CORRECTLY INSTALLED. SHIMMING the return spring will not accomplish a damn thing and may cause problems, because that spring holds a small piston in place that covers a pressure relief port in the oil pump that only opens after the pressure reachs about 65psi-75psi depending on the type of oil pump and spring in use, since the engine never even gets to 65 psi shimming the spring to up the pressure threash hold at which the bye pass port opens is a waste of time. your problem is more than likely bearing clearances that are to large or a pump pick up thats mounted to close to the oil pan floor. don,t forget your oil pressure guage could also be wrong (NEEDS TESTING) and that some oil filters cause problems . and theres a plug in some big block oil passages under the rear main cap that needs to have been installed correctly (the mark V & mark VI)engines I think BTW, before you weld or braze a oil pump pick-up to the pump body you should remove the bypass spring and piston from the pump, and re-install them AFTER the pump COOLS to prevent the spring and piston from being heat damaged , and let the parts air cool slowly, dropping hot parts in water could potential warp alignment of the pump parts. it also helps to install the gears with a light coating of vasaline, then coat the pump all over with oil, to allow the pump to get a good suction seal almost instantly and to prevent rust if your not filling the oil pan and priming the engine within a day or so! oil pumps rarely make much noise, unless, the drive shaft driving the oil pump, is rubbing on the block which will happen if you install a standard drive shaft in a 400 type block which requires the drive shaft with the smaller diameter midsection. Or you forget to install that little metal or nylon collar that keeps it aligned Or the clearances inside the oil pump or not checked, and is partly binding or in some cases of the oil pump has ingested, some small bits of metal or other foreign material.the standard high-performance oil pump drive shaft looks like the one below ,it has a steel collar and is made from a stronger than normal steel It should never be used in a 400 type blocks, and I don't use them on any engine builds the AARP style with the reduced cross-section of metal is the preferred type, when you do get around the checking the clearances between the gears of the oil pump, and a removable floor plate, the end play clearances should be no more than .003 maximum, .002 preferred, you'll see one driven gear and one drive gear, I normally pull off the driven gear and carefully drill of the 1/16 inch holes in the bottom of the gear tooth slot, at three places spaced vertically, and horizontally one third of the way around an up-and-down on those seven to 12 gear teeth have(depends on the pump your using) if done correctly and carefully this modification at least in theory aids the oil flow sporting that driven gear, as in most engine mods, no one thing does tell a lot, but the accumulation of a lot of little things and modifications, makes for a winning engine combination. another potential source of problems and noise that you should but know about is that, YOU must always install and aluminum bronze distributor gear on a steel cam normally these are roller cam's than normal distributor gear is made of what looks like cast-iron will not work on a steel roller cam a steel roller cam will quickly destroyed a standard gear that's why you must use the aluminum bronze gear.... unless , the steel cam has had pressed on cast-iron gear to match the standard distributor gear. almost every sbc engine I build uses a standard voluum big block pump or a high voluum standard pressure oil pump with no problems at all, my 383 in my 1985 vette gets pulled out and checked , new rings and bearings just as a standard rebuild about every 18 months and not once has either the distrib. or cam gear show excessive or for that matter even measurable wear, the fact that I run a 9.5qt oil pan, with magnets that pick up all metalic dust, good oil filters, and 90% plus synthetic oil, a groove in the lower distributor oil band, that sprays a constant stream of oil onto the contact point I think is the main factor READ THIS http://www.melling.com/highvol.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.melling.com/miscon.html now think it thru, (1)pressure is the RESULT of resistance to oil flow (2) the high voluum pump can push about 25% more oil (3) the oil pump bye-pass circuit limits the max pressure in either size pump to about 65lbs-75 lbs MAXIMUM before it BYE-PASSES all additional oil voluum (4) the engine can accept and use only the max flow voluum that the engine passages can flow at the max pressure the pump provides , at any point less than max pressure the passages can flow only what the pressure and voluum provided by the pump supplies (5)if the bearing clearances can flow more than the pump provides in voluum and pressure at any rpm level the film of cooling oil that provides a cushion between the bearing surfaces are at risk of not being supported and seperated by that cushion of oil (6) now since the sweep voluum is greater with the high voluum pump it will reach that bye-pass circuits max pressure at about 25% lower rpms and supply a POTENTIALLY higher voluum of oil to the supply passages/bearings SO... (7)all a high voluum pump does is provide the maximum oil flow the engine can use up to the max pressure allowed by the bye-pass circuit at a 25% lower rpm level if the system can reach max pressure, but it also supplies 25% more oil at every rpm level below that point to provide additional cooling and protection for the engine. and if the engine can flow more than the stock pump can provide the high voluum pump helps fill the need faster (8)oil flow through the bearing clearances INCREASES at a faster rate as the rpms increase (9) in most engines the oil flow can be provided by the stock pump IF the clearances are close to stock AND THE RPM LEVELS ARE KEPT IN THE idle-6000rpm range but if rpm levels exceed 6000rpm,or if bearing loads greatly exceed the stock hp levels, or the clearances are greater than stock the high voluum pump is a good idea

the best deal for the money may be the vortec heads but it will depend on your goals. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/index4.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/index5.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/index6.html now you might want to keep in mind that while airflow is not directly related to potential hp it is a good indication of potential the vortecs can get about 430hp with some work they are limited in air flow potential compared to other options here read this http://sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/ http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110128.htm http://www.73-87.com/chp/gm3504.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb120121.htm http://sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/512e.pdf http://www.summitracing.com/ CCA-982-KIT Chevrolet: 262-400, conical valve spring kit http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/115/ http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index1.html http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias (13) have a local machine shop clearance the retainer to valve guide distance and add aftermarket springs and valve seals (14) there are valve keepers available that add .050 extra clearance(USE THEM) but make sure the valve springs you use and the rocker/valve train geometry are set up correctly to work with the larger valve spring height and clearance! (15) use the CORRECT matching rockers (16) adding, machining for, screw in rocker studs is a good idea! (17) your wasteing time and money runing a vortec head engine with an extreme high rpm cam,and intake, especially on a larger 383-427 displacement engine, the heads are designed to make massive torque in the 2000rpm-5500rpm range on a 350 displacement engine, they will not efficiently feed a 7000rpm combo on a larger engine so build your engine with that in mind (18)if you intend to build a killer 383-427 sbc with vortec (STYLE) heads ID STRONGLY SUGGEST UPGRADING TO E-Tec 200 Edelbrock E-Tec 200 heads have 200cc rectangular intake ports and 78cc exhaust ports. They outflow the “fast burn†aluminum heads by 10% on the intake and 17% on the exhaust, making power up to 6500 rpm. 64cc combustion chambers produce approximately 10.2:1 compression when used with flat-top pistons in 350-inch engines. E-Tec 200 heads come with 2.02" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves. E-Tec 200 Chamber Size Bare (single) Complete (single) 64cc #60969* #60989* heres a few things that you should read http://www.zianet.com/v8monza/engine.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/32458/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm http://www.gearheadracing.com/Reference/TorqueSpecChevy.htm if you do nothing else buy and read these books BEFORE starting the engine build, and buy ,or borrow a quality engine stand I will save you hours of wasted effort,make the engine assembly far easier,SAVE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS WASTED and YEARS OF LEARN TIME check list if theres any one tool you need its a good engine stand stand info you don,t need anywhere near a full selection of tools but be very carefull checking clearances and I highly advise buying a damper installation tool IF THERES ONE RULE YOU MUST NEVER IGNORE ITS CHECK ALL CLEARANCES TWICE AND MAKE DAMN SURE THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY SHOULD BE AND WHY http://www.73-87.com/chp/chp.htm http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index.html http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS

having used several differant models all I can suggest is that you buy a matched kit , or matching parts and NOT try to cobble something together expecting good readings that you can trust http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D6593 http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10101&productId=70&catalogId=10101&langId=-1 but keep in mind the pre-heated three wire O2 sensor types and the placement of the sensor as close to the engine as possiable in the collector of the header tends to give better info you can use!

go through your standard check list, check that theres spark at all the plugs and the plugs are burning cleanly check that your getting the correct voltage at the coil/ignition and plugs are not loose and gapped correctly, check that the wires and coil are not arcing or shorting out check that the throttle linkage opens fully look for coolent on the plugs or coolent leaks under the car look for loose vacume hoses, crimped lines, ETC, check your oil level is correct do a compression test if anything looks bad on the plugs or engines seems to not be running on all 8 cylinders look for rocker arms that are not moveing correctly,bent push rods, loose rocker arm studs, broken valve retainers, or valve springs check that your getting good oil pressure at idle(pressure switch can turn off ignition) check that cam and ignition timeing is ok/not changed (timeing light, loose timeing chain on cam drive, check that the distributor has not moved, check with a timing light)check that the rotors not loose under the distrib. cap and the distrib. cap itself is not loose or cracked check that you have not wiped a cam lobe, broken a valve spring or valve spring damper. look for loose rocker arm adjustment look for vacuum leaks look for loose electrical connections, fan belts or accesories that might be having a bearing or electrical failure putting excessive drag on the engine look for low fuel pressure/clogged fuel filter, bad fuel, water in gas, rust in the gas or just low on fuel. look for plugged up air filter/bad pvc/egr check catalitic converters not plugged/restricting the exhaust flow check for moisture in distributor cap. check that the damper on the crank has not come loose and moved the timeing marks on the outer ring by having the elastic break loose between the rings on a stock style damper or that the key in the crank has not sheared allowing the damper to move possition do a CYLINDER LEAK DOWN test make sure the fuel pressure is correct and the fuel supply system is working at 6psi-8psi before the pressure regulator and about 5psi-6psi at the carb http://www.centuryperformance.com/timing.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html (pontiac but info the same for chevy) http://www.73-87.com/garage/101s.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm look for spark plug wires that are loose or not correctly connected

I can,t answer your E-MAIL,your links got problems PLEASE send the driveshaft Ill pay the costs, call me at 1-561-792-5308 to work out details THANK YOU!!!!!

spdsk8r " if you need a driveshaft, my donor vehicle had a 4L80E trans and I still have the aluminum driveshaft with yoke. You can have it for cost of shipping." thank you! please send me shipping weight/cost so I can send you the money for the driveshaft, I can use it!

Mike C I got a good deal on a NEW 4L80E still in the factory shipping container, direct from chevy,I fully intend to make it full manual control also, the main reason I picked the 4L80E was that its an overdrive trans AND I know two corvettes that DYNOed over 1000 hp(not a mis-print yeah,1000 rear wheel hp and over 1000 ft lbs of tq useing that trans with no problems) yeah twin turbo intercooled big block chevy engines now if it handles that the 650-750hp big block Im planing should be fine look, at what the upgraded version sells for, http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L80E.htm they told me I can upgrade the stock trans to those specs and it will still cost less with what I payed for the stock trans plus with the upgrade than what they ask for the new trans

use the code #: M26100 and your get 10% off any purchase over $300 from now to dec 31st? at http://www.summitracing.com/

thank you , please call me, (COLLECT) at 561-792-5308 just say your calling GRUMPYVETTE/PAUL or EMAIL ME SO WE CAN TALK prlangevin@hotmail.com

ok all you transmission guys, IM also VERY interested in the answers because I purchased a 4L80E to install in my 1985 corvette when I do the swap to the big block engine , because theres no 700r4 thats going to handle the torque numbers that engine will produce, so any info will be greatly appreciated, on how to find cheap ECU/TRANS controllers OR how to modify the 4L80E trans to full manual control. hopefully theres some knowledgeable trans guys on THIS SITE that can help!!?? converters available ? lock up/non-lock-up? performance shift kits? ETC. IM SURE MOST GUYS CAN USE GOOD INFO! heres all the links Ive found......... NO! NOT ALL THOSE QUESTIONS ARE FULLY ANSWERED IN THE LINKS does anyone have the part number for that manual converion KIT,? or other usefull info?, instructions on the conversion? programing and installation info on the electronic controllers?, part numbers and prices? other options? does anyone know where a diagram for the connections can be found? differances between the differant year 4L80E transmissions? how do the 4L80E trans differ from year to year? what are the part numbers for the TRANS CONTROLLERS WHAT STALL SPEED CONVERTERS ARE AVAILABLE and with lock-up? which are the best built? what cross members fit? what drive shaft yoke? part #? HERES SOME INFO ON THE 4L80E http://www.atg-autotrans.com/4l80hous.htm http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L80E.htm http://www.transtec.com/specific_trans/4l80e.htm http://store.yahoo.com/hardparts/4l80e.html http://www.drivetrain.com/4l80e.html http://www.fbperformance.com/transmissions/gm4l80e.html http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Transmission_Control_Modules/4L60E_4L80E.html http://www.compushift.com/ GM PART # 24200161 (wire harness) http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims_tables.htm#4L80E http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/transmissions/hydra/apps/4l80.htm this might help PLEASE HELP OUT ,ANY USEFULL INFO IS WARMLY ,and GREATFULLY RECIEVED THIS IS INTERESTING http://www.kdsperformance.com/tranhigpersh5.html The ultimate high performance shift kit!! Includes detailed instructional video. Engineered for the 'perfect shift' - firm muscle car shifts. FULL manual shifting. Perfect for heavy duty/towing applications. Stops direct clutch burnup. Prevents hi-pressure damage. Holds shifts and downshifts to any RPM. Contains detailed instruction booklet. Can be installed with transmission in vehicle. Requires no specialized tools. 100% Made In USA! Engineered/Designed by Gil Younger - the father of the shift kit. TR10101 $179.95

Adlashwa do you have a fully functioning ls1 powered 300z ? what transmission was used? does the manual give a step by step procedure on how to do the swap? where /how does one order the manual? do you offer engine and trans mounts, cross members, ETC. for the swap? are the instructions made for the advanced hobbyist or can any idiot do the swap if he follows directions carefully? is a welder needed?. is the swap a bolt in deal if the correct engine mounts, trans mounts are used or are extensive body mods necessary?