grumpyvette

http://www.peachstatechevelles.com/muncieid.html http://www.4speeds.com/muncie2.htm http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/muncie.htm http://www.5speeds.com/kit.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/saginaw3_4sp.html http://members.rogers.com/mlvd/muncie_rebuild.htm http://www.pontiacracing.net/trannyratios.htm http://www.pro-touring.com/t56/index.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/gmt56inst.html

What is that minimum allowable clearance after any cam timing change as opposed to the original 0.100" settings??? IDEALLY you should HAVE GREATER THAN .100 clearance to start with so that changing the timing (ADVANCE/RETARD within about plus or minus 6 degrees from that SPLIT OVERLAP POINT still allows that .100 minimum piston to valve clearance. BTW youll normally find that the valves reach their closest point to the pistons at about 10 degrees before and after TDC, NOT at TDC Ive seen guys go as tight .060 but thats nuts in the long haul if your expecting that engine to live very long at high rpms look carefully at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf now look at this cam card http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119681&B1=Display+Card at two points those valves are damn close to the piston if that lifter is .050 off the base at 11 degress BTDC the ROCKER ARMS 1.6 ration lifts the valve .080 thousands, the piston is only .035 thousands down the bore, with a common .025 deck and .021 head gasket that means the edge of the valve is .001 thousands froum touching the piston without valve relief cuts for additional clearance on a flat top piston. heat expansion allone would cause them to hit BEFORE the TIMEING EVER THOUGHT OF GETTING ADVANCED

For only $141.00 a pop you can get a set of these... lets see...$141 x 8=$1128 for rods youll need to throw away after at the most one hard season of racing or about two years of low stress street/strip driveing, then if your smart your replace them or your risking the rest of the engine or!!!!!! you can buy rods like these and for all intents forget about rod failures http://www.oliver-rods.com/products/ForgedSBIndex.html http://www.flatlanderracing.com/crower_lightweight.html http://www.flatlanderracing.com/carillo_rodssbc.html

aluminum rods are DESIGNED to be used on engines running nitro-methane ,or running high nitrous loads and act as shock absorbers, they are DESIGNED TO BE replaced on a regular basis because they tend to stress fracture after severe or prolonged useage, engines RUNNING LARGE LOADS OF NITROUS and NITROMETHANE don,t worry about QUENCH to any great extent because they are normally only running at extremely high rpm levels durring racing events and detonation has little chance of damageing the engine at those rpm levels ON A PROPERLY TUNED ENGINE simply because most RACING ENGINE RUN ON THE RICH END OF THE FUEL AIR MIXTURE SCALE NEAR 12:5-12.8:1 rather than at 13.5-14.7:1 like an engine that runs on the street todays technology alows QUALITY steel or TITANIUM CONNECTING RODS to be built as light or lighter than aluminum rods for engines designed for ENDURANCE EVENTS.............................SHORT ANSWER! YOUVE GOT NO BUSINESS BUILDING AN ENGINE THAT WON,T BE PULLED DOWN FOR FREQUENT INSPECTIONS OR CRUSES AT LOW RPMS OR NEEDS ACCURATE QUENCH TO RUN LONG DISTANCES USEING ALUMINUM RODS, YEAH , IM WELL AWARE THERES GUYS DOING IT ALL THE TIME, THAT DOES NOT MEAN THAT THEY ARE USEING THE BEST COMBO OR UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY ARE DOING! THERES GUYS RUNNING CAST CRANKS, STIOCK RODS AND 300HP NITROUS KITS IN NEARLY STOCK ENGINES TOO! STRESS IS CUMULATIVE ITS JUST A MATTER OF TIME

I found this info and I figured you guys might like to look it over, now the first thing I want to point out is where the DATA came from. and KEEP IN MIND ITS REAR WHEEL HP AND The TPI INTAKE IN THE TEST consists of 58mm TB, fully ported plenum, AS&M largetube runners, and highly ported Edelbrock base WHICH MEANS ITS ALREADY MAKING AT LEAST 25HP-30HP MORE THAN A STOCK TPI INTAKE) http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/ The engine was basically the same,in all the test except for the intake manifold, consisting of a ZZ4 crate motor, AFR190 heads, LT4 HOT cam, and SLP 1-3/4" SS headers. Trans is a 700r4 with a Vigilante 2800 stall converter. The Engine Control Module (ECM) was a '92 TPI stock ECM (MAP/speed-density) with a modified EPROM. I HAVE GONE TRU AND WILL PICKED OUT THE IMPORTANT POINTS TO SAVE YOU TIME IN THE CHARTs AND GRAPHS ON THE SITE TPI engine.....283 PEAK rwhp @4800rpm peak AVG. TQ 291.5 AVG HP 269.5 miniram 303 PEAK rwhp @6200rpm peak AVG. TQ 285.8 AVG HP 269.1 IT LOST 29 HP at 3800 rpm and MADE 48 MORE HP THAN THE stock TPI at 6300 RPM stealth ram 342 PEAK rwhp @6400rpm AVG. TQ 319 AVG HP 300 it lost 28 hp at 3600 rpm BUT GAINED 66 HP AT 6600 RPM over the stock TPI 342 rear wheel hp is aproximatly equal to 427 flywheel HP FROM A 350 SBC ENGINE, figuring a 20% driveline loss rate. the use of a longer duration cam and only measureing PEAK HP would tend to benefit the miniram and STEALTH RAM intakes to a MUCH GREATER extent than the TPI, THATS HOW claims of gains of 100hp are made for some intake combos, while its TRUE that you can make in excess of a HUNDRED EXTRA hp at 6600rpms is due more to the TPI not being able to flow air (LOSSES) keep in mind that a LARGER ENGINE DISPLACEMENT WOULD BENEFIT EVEN MORE from the steathram link to c-4 stealthram

that "POP" could be very bad news, it might be a cam lobe from the next lobe in line lifting a valve with its edge as the cam moved forward, at the wrong time and hitting a piston, if I were you ID do a compression test to see if any damage was done BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE OR replacing the cam and only if that proved ok would I install a new cam and lifters without tearing down the engine for inspection

the ONLY thing keeping the cam in the standard sbc is the slight bevel on the cam lobes that is there to keep the lifters spinning in their bores, if those lobes start to wear, the cam can and sometimes does walk forward in the block, if you want to be sure to keep it in place youll need to install a cam button like the roller cams use. always a great idea on any sbc engine BTW the large washer goes behind the timing gear and awround the cam to protect the block,you also need this plate to hold that button in place and its a very good idea to drill a .040 thousands hole in the forward lifter gallery plug to spray oil on the back of the timing gear

my computer only shows these results rpm.........350...............383 ...............afr/crower/edelbrock 2000......151/397.........171/448 ...........157/412 3000......242/423.........269/470............256/447 4000......337/442.........365/479 ...........376/493 5000......405/425.........422/443 ...........473/497 6000......404/354..........396/346...........503/440 but in the real world a 40hp/40ft lb gain over most of the rpm range is quite common btw those heads and cam/intake are holding you back,look at the results for a super ram intake,crower 00471 cam and afr95cc heads

$6700 for 345 hp of mopar? ID RATHER SPEND $7500 fo 540hp/575tq of chevy http://www.theengineshop.com/engine3.shtml thats 19.4$ per hp for the mopar or $13.8 per hp for the chevy, or put another way that mopar should cost $4792 for the same hp per $$

"Did you write that yourself, or pull some of it from your archives?" a little of each!

YOU MIGHT BE A RACER IF ... You think the primary purpose of wings is to PREVENT flight. You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses or check out cars. You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to racing depth and the wear bars are showing. When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you just saved. Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you. You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining. You bought a race car before buying a house. You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house. You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture! The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of importance): 1) 8 car climate controlled garage with an attached shop. 2) Outside parking for 6 cars, a motor home, a crew cab dually, a 28' enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel. 3) 3 phase 220V outlets in the garage for your welder. 4) A grease pit. 5) Deaf neighbors. 6) Some sort of house with a working toilet & shower on the property - or - hookups for the motor home. You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make car noises and shift and practice your heel and toe, while waiting for your motor to get back from the machine shop. You have enough spare parts to build another car. More than one racer supply store recognizes your voice and greets you by name when you call. You think the last line of the Star Spangled banner is: "Racers start your engines!" People know you by your class, car number, and car color. You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped breaker bar every other week or so. Your family brings the couch into the garage to spend time with you. A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query, "Synthetic or organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn." You enjoy driving in the rain on the way to work. You always want to change something on your street car to make it handle better. You've tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix the air filter on her station wagon. You save broken car parts as "momentous". You've found your lawnmower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but doesn't particularly care for alcohol). The local police and state highway patrol have a picture of your car taped to their dashboard. Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have time slips. You quote your street tire wear life in weeks rather than miles. After you tell your wife where you'd like to go on vacation she answers: "Why...is there a race there?" You know at least three 1-800 numbers to aftermarket parts houses by heart. You are on a first-name basis with owners of every local speed shop. You want to take apart and rebuild things, even though they are not broken. You have the monetary equivalent of a lunar rocket invested in it, but your car still won't cut a good light or run the number. You own a vehicle that has at least 500 horsepower more than when it came out of Detroit. You look for hi-po cars in the movies and try to guess what engine size, tire size, and whether or not it has nitrous in it. You are the type of person who goes postal when you have to sit in a traffic jam for more than five minutes, yet you can spend five hours in the staging lanes. Every stoplight becomes a practice tree to test your ability to tree the guy in the other lane's eyes out. You wash your car like it was your firstborn child, you tend to its needs like it was your own body, you protect it like it's your family, then you drive it like you stole it. You understand racing is a way of life, not just a means of transportation. 1. You set off car alarms throughout any parking garage you drive into. 2. Neighbors mistake you driving by for either thunder or a low flying jet. 3. Your neighbors either hate you or want rides in your car, or both. 4. You exclaiming "Warp 9, number one!" before standing on the gas does not elicit laughs. 5. The smell of unburnt fuel from your exhaust at idle makes eyes water at 100 yards and kills small birds and insects much closer. 6. WOT has another nickname: Tire Fry. 7. Judicious use of the throttle has become more than just a good idea. 8. You have more gagues in your vehicle than any three of your friends, combined. 9. Your entire driveline has been replaced with more durable parts for fear of catastrophic failure of stock parts. 10. On a ten hour drive you only age 2 hours. 11. Your pastor tries to explain what one of the seals of the apocalypse breaking is like by using your car as an example. 12. When confronted by your car police either laugh or cry. 13. you refer to pump 93 octane as tow truck fuel 14. you buy fuel in 55 gallon drums 15 you know the octane rating of toulene and xylene by heart 16.you had no idea marvel mystery oil was sold in containers smaller than 1 gallon cans 17. you think spark plugs life expectancy is one race 18. you can,t believe it takes those pit crews the whole 15 minutes to swap engines 19.you can,t believe the tire ballance guy won,t believe the tires have a harmonic shake at 218 mph 20. you know the exhaust temps plus/minus 10 degrees by the shade of red the exhaust pipes glow

What about Mike's question? How much HP NOS shot can hyperutectic pistons handle? easily 100hp with 125hp -150hp being very do-able as long as you jet it to be slightly rich in the mixture. and watch the ignition advance curve carefully, I ran 150hp setting on hyper pistons for over two years untill I got dumb one day and both over advanced the timing and leaned the jets slightly, (but I doubt even forged pistons would have handled that too much better! ) BTW that was about 10 years ago and the pistons and the nitrous controls have improved a good deal since then, and just for your info, at the time I had another engine ready to install, and I was just trying to see what I could get away with on the old engine before I pulled it! here read this http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page14.htm hyper pistons are not "AS STRONG AS FORGED" but they are NOT TOTAL JUNK EITHER

"Comp Cams XR288-hr-10 I believe. It was 236/242-520/540 with 110 LS, that said when I pulled the cam out it was in 10 to 12 degrees advanced." IF you still have that cam in good shape ,its not a bad choice, your correct, its designed for about 10.5-11:1 compression and it works well in most engines installed strait up and it works OK with nitrous. mid to low 11s with that 236/242 cam and a shot of giggle gas should be easily within reach ONCE EVERYTHINGS INSTALLED AND TUNED CORRECTLY I can,t even remember when a cam ran better ADVANCED (HELL MOST COME 4 DEGS. ADVANCE BUILT in FROM SPLIT OVERLAP possition AS IT IS,YOU NEED TO RETARD MANY to get them to run correctly! Im kinda shocked the damn thing even ran if it was 12 degrees further advanced!

I think this may be of interest! http://www.pavtek.com.au/ls1_graph.html http://www.zracer.com/camaro/baseline.htm http://www.installuniversity.com/1999z28/ http://www.c5-corvette.com/C5Dyno_1.htm#LS1%20Power%20Pak LOOK AT THE NUMBERS YOUR DOING JUST FINE! short answer.. don,t get all weird worrying about dyno results. the only things that matter, are does your car run well? can you beat most of your buddies? does the car run like you expect it too? can you afford to throw away money to make it run faster? keep in mind this is not IMPORTANT IN YOUR LIFE LIKE MAKING A LIVING, GETTING AN EDUCATION, OR RAISING A FAMILY, its JUST A HOBBY! yeah its fun to go faster than your buddies but don,t go crazy over going a tenth faster at all costs,there will ALWAYS BE FASTER CARS SIMPLY BECAUSE SOME GUYS HAVE MORE TIME AND MONEY TO WASTE THAN YOU DO! now that being said.... a cam swap to something like the cams below and adding a 250hp nitrous plate will make all right in your world again, and would be my choices to improve that combo.. http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=36&y=7 http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119841&B1=Display+Card

yes 10:1 will be LESS likely to detonate,YES 10:1 is a better choice if your not willing to run 93 octane gas and possiably a bit of octane booster (LIKE I DO!) but keep in mind that the ENGINE ONLY SEES DYNAMIC COMPRESSION NOT STATIC COMPRESSION the piston compresses nothing on its way up on the compression stroke UNTILL BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED, so the cam you pick is the determining factor in the true working compression, with the correct cam and gearing you can easily run 11:1 compression on 93 octane pump gas the cam listed above works with aluminum heads, if your running the correct ignition advance and fuel/air mix, you will of course need to figure the dynamic compression ratio OF YOUR PERSONAL ENGINE COMBO BEFORE ORDERING/ASSEMBLING THE PARTS, (youll want to stay under about 8.3:1 dynamic with aluminum heads and about 7.9:1 with iron heads)for 93 octane pump gas but a little carefull tuneing and octane booster will allow some leeway BTW retarding the cam several degrees not only delays the valve closeing and lowers DYNAMIC COMPRESSION, it tends to move the whole tq curve slightly higher in the rpm range, (good to know if your running right on the edge of detonation with the cam installed on the factory index marks)

btw guys , in this book they do a comparison between a 383 and a 377, built as nearly the same except for bore and stroke as possiable, the 383 makes more hp/tq untill about 5000rpm and even at 6500rpm the 383s slightly larger displacement and longer stroke keep it within 16hp of the 377 http://www.bookstrip.com/book_detail.php?isbn=1557884005&source=ink&keyword=1557884005 heres a combo I think youll like if your just starting to plan 383 (4.030 bore/3.75 stroke)11:1 cpr AFR 190cc port heads STEALTH RAM EFI (OR SUPER VIC AND 800cfm carb if you prefer carbs) crower #00471 cam milodon windage screen 7 qt oil pan 5.7" rods internally ballanced very similar combos have worked very well in three engines now, one (with webers made over 530 ft lbs of tq)

heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build, you can print it out as a check list (is everything clean and degreased before you start? Do you have all the tools youll need?) heads are the pushrods perfectly strait? do the pushrods flow oil? rocker studs/guides torqued correctly? do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use? have the heads been pocket ported? combustion chambers unshrouded? intake ports gasket matched" are the valve guides cut to the correct length? are the heads pocket ported? is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct? are the valve guide oil seals installed? is there valve spring seats installed? inner damper springs installed? spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.) oil return holes cleaned of casting flash? were steam holes in heads necessary? were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber? rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ? retainer to valve guide clearances? spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure? valve lash/preload ? are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia. keeper the correct angle? style? size? valve seats the correct angles? valves back cut? valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam. strait? rockers the correct ratio? were the valve to valve guide clearances checked? were the heads milled? did the head gasket overlap the bore? what are your valve train clearances? is the rocker arm geometry correct! chambers CC,ed port work..(some steps optional) (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias block do you have enough assembly lube! is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/ is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/ is the pick-up brazed to the pump body? has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension? is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears) has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly? has the block been aline honed? is the crank strait? are the damper install keyway and threads ok? counter weights clearanced? MAGNAFLUXED? OIL PASSAGES CLEANED? GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY? has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked? piston to valve clearances checked? piston to bore clearances? TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? what were the piston ring to slot clearances? RING GAPS? were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in? were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove? what were the back clearance on the rings? were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag? were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap? total cam lift and remaining clearanceS? WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN? main bearing clearances? what is the main bearing run-out clearance piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?) head gasket to coolent holes checked? magnets installed? rod bolt to block clearances? what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached? are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?) did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment? what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance?? are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper? did you use moly lube to assemble? correct bearing crush? did you pre-lube before start-up? did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely? was the distributor oil flow mod done? was the correct style distributor gear used? did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance? did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight? if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons? was the engine ballanced? cam button installed?, and lock plate installed? were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait? piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed? were the rods checked for length? is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down? did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft? was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots) does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed? whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance? is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok? is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/ are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/ what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts? were the bores honed with a torque plate in place? was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used? was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED? was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/ were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow? were the lifter bores checked? cam to timing cover clearance? cam journal to cam bearing clearances? was the cam journal run-out checked? was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks? has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked? does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen? was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED? is the deck square/level? whats the cross hatch hone angle? what grit hone was used? are all the threads clean/clear? brass freeze plugs installed? block painted? do the oil return holes have screens epoxied in place if necessary besides the normal checks for deck height, line hone,and splayed main caps, making sure all the threaded holes are correct, the cylinders honed lifter bores are correct, theres the little things, I paint the inside surfaces of my blocks with http://www.glyptal.com/1209_black_enamel.htm to lock in place any micro dust left after the last total cleaning before assembly, to speed the oil flow back to the oil pan and help prevent corrosion BTW I bought 16 rubber corks to push into the lifter bores to prevent paint entering the lifter bores durring the painting, I placed 16 mini-screw eyes in the corks and strung them on a bead chain to keep from loseing them while in storage or in use! http://www.camtattoo.com/camshop/home.html?target=Piercing_SuppliesCorks_zg_Receiving_Tubes.html Ive used BOTH RUSTOLEUM (BRITE YELLOW) and Glyptal but lately just several coats of BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM ON OVER THE glyptal EPOXY BASE COAT,COVERED BYE BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM APPLIED ON THE TOTALLY CLEANED AND DEGREASED AND DRIED BLOCK, (BTW A TOTAL DEGREASE OF THE BLOCK WITH ACETONE,and LINT FREE CLOTH, AND A heat gun or hair drier to totally dry the block just before cleaning helps the paint get a firm grip on the block surface) and dont forget you should remember the option to J&B EPOXY a MAGNET in the lifter gallery BEFORE painting the surfaces if you want to permenantly afix it on the block. (which do a great job at picking up micro metalic dust) http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet1.html

yes you file a groove in both lower bands about .050 wide x.030 deep directly in line with the cam gear when the distributor is in its installed position, youll need to get the car started and timing set then mark the distributor, pull it and correctly cut the groove in the possition to spray a constant stream of oil onto the contact area of the steel cam to bronze dist. gears contact point. The bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8 and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030-.050" wide x .030deep thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger .050 x .030 groove with no problems deep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the cam This procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed

while I have not tried it yet theres no reason it would not work, hey if you got the money, try it!

I SWEAR YOU GUYS JUST DON,T READ THE LINKS!!!!, HERE ILL TRY AGAIN read and take notes http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/257g.pdf http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/323e.pdf

order this catalog, they have some exceptionally good deals on oil pans/oil pump/pickup combos and they have 8 qt oil pans that fit corvettes that have exceptionally tight engine compartments even with full length headers Ive used over a dozen of their pans over the last few years ,they clear the milodon windage screen fine and don,t leak, the baffles keep oil at the pick-up, they are only 7.5" deep and youll have a really hard time beating the quality for the price http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/mms.nsf/CatalogOrder?openform

ITS not that simple, a good check list to follow is to find the AVERAGE rpm level that your cars gearing keeps the engine in durring aceleration,look at the cylinder head flow and displacement and cam durration . if the cams intake duration is at LEAST 230@.050 lift, if the displacement is at least 350cid,if the compression ratio is at least 10:1, if the cylinder heads flow at least 240@.500 lift and the engine spends MOST of its time between 4000rpm-7000rpm than a single plane intake will in most cases be the better choice, if the combo does not meet most or all of those limits a dual plane intake normally tends to work better!

well the first thing ID check is that pressure regulator sensor by disconnecting it and having a friend in the pass seat for one hard run and having that friend watching your oil pressure gauge carefully durring a hard run,. to see if the problem remains,my guess is that the oil pump pick-up is getting uncovered, by the oil running away from it due to inertia durring those hard (G) acceleration/turns/brakeing ETC, the pressure sensors cutting off the ignition when it sucks air! OR theres a loose connection in the wireing shorting out,because, carb problems normally cause an engine to miss due to overly lean or rich mixtures, NOT shut OFF! the second thing Id check is that you have BOTH 6-7psi of fuel pressure AT THE CARB INLET PORT durring a full acceleration run thru a full 1/4 and all gears,AND a fuel pump that pumps a MINIMUM of 1 quart of fuel volume in 30 seconds into a test bottle when the engine idles with zero back pressure.( 2 qts would be about NORMAL) notice you said "Any ideas why it stumbles and wants to die under moderate to hard braking and cornering?" but not hard accelleration, where the oil tends to run TOO the oil pump pick-up

spacers add plenum volum and a more gradual change in direction to the air flow which tends to lower the airflow speed very slightly but boost the air fuel mixture time . each engine will require testing to see which combo is best.as a general rule any engine that runs much better with a spacers is seeing a restriction in the runners and/or plenum and might be better off with a differant intake or port work, spacers are a tuneing aid not generally a huge help in making hp unless your combo is restricted in its air flow or needs that extra height to aid the fuel air mix time. If they see a gain like that , changing intakes or doing port work would most likey further boost the power curve, its NOT that the spacers "MADE POWER" its that the intake in use was COSTING POWER WITH OUT THE SPACER DUE TO A FLOW RESTRICTION that 14.9 hp represents a 3% peak differance, a change easilly bettered with a bit of port work and a differant intake design the differance the spacer made was that the tq at the higher rpms held up better, a sure sign that the cylinder fill efficiency was slightly better, while the spacer obviously helped a swap to a better intake would more than likely improve things even more. as an example I rarely see spacers help on a correctly ported edelbrock super vic single plane intake because they flow exceptionally well but I comonly see the dual plane rpm style intakes on radical engines benifit at the upper rpm ranges simply BECAUSE the dual plane intakes design is not meant to operate at that rpm level efficiently so the spacers extra plenum volum helps, but keep in mind that its normally a trade off... the spacers normally hurt low rpm /off idle tq NOTICE THE DATA STARTS AT 5000RPM, BELOW THAT THE SPACER MORE THAN LIKELY HURT TQ ..always ask WHY was the data not from idle to engine red line on any dyno info thats only showing results over 1500rpm???????

There's a company producing a magnet wrap that goes around the oil filter and captures the metal particles in filter for easy disposal think about it carefully!....in order for a filter magnet to work the bits of broken metal MUST pass thru the oil pump, providing an EXCELLENT CHANCE for those bits of metallic crud to damage the oil pump impellers, jam the pressure relief valve and scar the gears, and get crushed between the gears,then AFTER they pass thru the oil pump theres a VERY GOOD CHANCE they will get routed thru the bye-pass into the oil passages NOT into the filter,REMEMBER a differance in oil pressure of only 5-10 lbs allows some or most oil to bye-pass the filter, and if your not aware of it, the addition of a bunch of free floating metallic dust from a ground up cam WILL CLOG THE FILTER so only the first few bits are likely to be trapped by the filter!! carefull placement of those powerfull magnets in the oil pan sump,traps the metallic dust BEFORE it can even enter the oil pump! having a magnet wrap on the filter is a bit like having a trama surgical team on stand bye if you know your going to get shot, it helps but a bullet proof vest , that PREVENTS the damage helps more (THE MAGNETS IN THE PAN) and not getting shot at at all is the best plan (useing the correct cam,dist gear,installation and properly built lube systen PLUS the magnets as a back-up is an even better idea!!) CAREFULL INSTALLATION,AND ENGINE BUILDING, PREVENTING TROUBLE BEATS FIXING PROBLEMS EVERY TIME!