grumpyvette

the first and sometimes MOST important 10% of any job worth doing is making 100% sure you know the correct way to do something and that you havre the correct tools and parts with detailed instructions, yes you can memorize the correct info but if you need the correct sbc TQ values as an example http://www.torquespecs.com/ http://www.2quicknovas.com/torque.html http://www.cobra-replica.co.uk/html/cobra_54.shtml http://rodshack.port5.com/t_torque_big_block.htm http://www.darklair.com/monte/torque_specs.html http://www.gearheadracing.com/Reference/TorqueSpecChevy.htm http://www.summitracing.com/tech/charts_guides/tz_02cht_gds_mprtrq_p.htm http://www.hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm its alot easier if youve got referances in your data base

"benjlv...wow more links...wow..." heres a few more, (less than 1% of my data base but still, several thousand sub links listed on several of the sites should keep the weekend buzy http://www.racehome.com/partsalphlink.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/org.htm http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/race.html http://www.roadcatalogs.com/ http://www.racingseat.com/links/parts.htm http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/RCSales/main.d2w/report http://www.racepages.com/Race_Engines/ http://www.racepages.com/index.htm http://listoflists.com/Top/Sports/Auto_Racing/Business_-_Racing_Related http://350.streetracing.org/links2.htm http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/partsold.htm http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/race.html http://www.racecar.co.uk/engine.html http://listoflists.com/Top/Sports/Auto_Racing/Business_-_Racing_Related http://roadsters.com/engines/ http://morechevys.homestead.com/fileindex.html http://www.quartermasterusa.com/racing.html http://www.autoguide.net/partsandservices/aftermarket9.shtml http://www.chevyworld.net/links.html http://1951chevy.homestead.com/ChevyResources.html http://www.nolansupply.com/links/racing.html http://www.racejunk.com/tech.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html#jcalc INFO YOU CAN USE buy the listed books it really will save you years and thousands of dollars in wasted effort then look this site over http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm DO YOURSELF A BIG FAVOR buy these FIVE books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start, LISTED BELOW ARE SEVERAL SITES WITH INFO OR PARTS YOU MIGHT NEED http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8 ) http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/index.html http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html first lets get something strait, theres two kinds of timing cam timing, the relationship of when the valves open and http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=298166&fpart=1&PHPSESSID= you want info? we got info! http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/oem/gm/tunetip.html http://www.customefis.com/ http://www.diy-efi.org/subscribe.html http://www.diy-efi.org/ http://www.fuelairspark.com/common/information/presentations/fast/001/Default_files/frame.htm http://pages.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi/ http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET http://www.speartech.com/ http://kevthompson.homestead.com/intakesEFI.html http://www.force-efi.com/fabmach.htm http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html http://home.earthlink.net/~micfly/accel.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/ http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/AF_meter.html http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp http://www.race-technology.com/WebPage/Products/ECU/ECUMain.html http://members.aol.com/bigturbo1/buick1.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/elpar.html http://www.geocities.com/softtailduece01/ http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm# http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/general_instr/general_instr.html http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/ READ THIS!!! http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm READ THIS!!! http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/port-tech-c.htm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/intakehelmholtz.cfm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/intaketuned.cfm http://www.ramairbox.com/ http://www.camaro-untoldsecrets.com/articles/crossram.htm http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyintakes.html http://www.professional-products.com/intakemanifolds.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm http://www.camaros.org/crossram.shtml http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#MinCross http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET http://pages.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi/ http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyBigBlockV8s/images/maifolddimentions502ramjet2.gif http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/perftune.html http://www.hogansracingmanifolds.com/ http://www.eng.ed.ac.uk/~jchick/Y5/thesis/FormulaStudent/public_html/pt7.htm first lets get something strait, theres two kinds of timing cam timing, the relationship of when the valves open and close relative to the pistons location at TDC and BDC and ignition timing which is the point at which the spark plugs fire in relation to the pistons position at TDC on the compression stroke. cam timing in the standard chevy V8 is set/locked in when the cam is installed and the relative timing of that cams lobe duration ,lift and LSA are set when the cam is ground/manufactured ignition timing http://www.centuryperformance.com/timing.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html (pontiac but info the same for chevy) http://www.73-87.com/garage/101s.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm here read this also http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/276g.pdf http://www.msdignition.com/ how come its 180 degs out of phase? I get this question all the time, well heres something I see lots of guys don,t understand,ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR ... while its true that if the timeing marks are possitioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the possition that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timeing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every fireing cycle once on the fireing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselfs open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ""YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT #1 IS FIRING"" cam timing Explanation of Crankshaft timing marks: <P>0 - Indicates standard cam timing A - Advances the cam timing 4° R - Retards the cam timing 4° this is some of the best basic cam info youll find so read this first, http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (lessons 1-8 ) http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://ctfba.tripod.com/main/technical/cams/cambasics/cambasics.htm http://ctfba.tripod.com/main/technical/cams/cambasics/GraphAttack.htm http://moparjimsgarage.virtualave.net/camvalve.html http://www.federal-mogul.com/speedpro/camshafts_speed_pro.html some good general info here look closely at the duration used for each MATCHING rpm range. ALSO KEEP IN MIND THE DCR AND OVERLAP MUST MATCH look here these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap but all engines will need the correct matching dcr for those overlap figures to correctly scavage the cylinders in the rpm ranges that apply to each engines use range http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html plug info here you want plug info? we got plug info! http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.ngkspark.com.au/spark_plug_cross_ref_chart_index3.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.projectbasketcase.com/menus/ignition.html here this will help http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.aera.org/tech/tb1465r.htm http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2016.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2022.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs69720.htm THINK ABOUT WHAT YOUR DOING BEFORE YOU DO IT! measure things 3 or4 times, read the instructions over untill you totally understand everything, and use this info MOST BUT NOT ALL THIS INFO IS VERY HELPFUL FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT TO DO! http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m1185/n8_v32/21148174/p1/article.jhtml?term=chevy+%2Bcombustion+%2Bchamber+design http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/ http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=4503 http://www.hastingsinc.com/Service%20Tips/engine_blueprinting.htm http://www.zianet.com/v8monza/engine.htm http://mysite.directlink.net/ldodd/EngineBuild.htm http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?viewtype=text&id=1004 http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/chp/Welcome.html http://mysite.directlink.net/ldodd/EngineBuild.htm http://www.lmengines.com/rocker_arm_changes.htm http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0204vet_rockers/ http://www.dragnbreath.com/dragnbreath/TechNotesA/TN9RolRocGeom.html http://www.hdcycles.com/rocker1.htm http://www.catpep.com/Products/RollerRocker.htm http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Proform/rocker_arm_pics.html http://www.cranecams.com/master/goldrace.htm http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/RockerArms/ProMagnum.asp http://www.trickflow.com/product/camsandvalvetrain/pr_rollerrockers.htm http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/rockerswap.html heres a simple way to get close to the correct length BUY ONE OF THESE http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3567&prmenbr=361 after making sure the valve springs are correctly installed you drop the checker in place on the rocker stud and install your adjustable pushrod adjust the length to fit and measure the resulting length if its within twenty thousands of the stock length its fine for most applications, if its more than 30 thousands long or short get the closest length set available btw, if your one of the people that still does not own an adjustable push rod! you can easily make your own by cutting a stock pushrod in 1/2 (2 pieces), removeing 1 inch from the total length an then with about 2 " of a 4 inch section of 3/16 or 1/4" thread rod installed and (in one section epoxy it in place leaving about 2" sticking out thread two nuts onto the thread rod and slip on the other end of the cut pushrod,(no epoxy) use the two nuts to adjust to stock length and let the epoxy harded in the one section now you can easily measure and order custom push rods useing the pushrod checker and adjustable push rod as tools AND YEAH IT ONLY WORKS WITH THE CYLINDER HEADS ON AND THE INTAKE REMOVED BECAUSE THE HOLE IN THE CYLINDER HEAD that GUIDEs THE PUSH ROD WON,T ALLOW THE NUTS ON THE ADJUSTABLE PUSHROD TO PASS THRU, UNLESS YOU PLACE THE CUT ABOUT 1" from the UPPER END OF THE ADJUSTABLE TEST PUSHROD BUT I prefer to place the adjusting nuts centered as I like to watch for all clearances with the intake manifold removed while manually checking as I turn the engine over by hand durring assembly, and at that point, while checking all the clearances, I use test springs which apply very little load on the push rod http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3272&prmenbr=361 HERES OTHER TOOLS YOU MIGHT NEED things to read carefully http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Oiltest.html http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3oilfilter.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.seansa4page.com/resource/synth.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.4unique.com/lubrication/lubrication_tutorial.htm http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/tenmythsaboutsyntheticlubrication.htm http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/about_esters.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/auto_technology/2002/8/motor_oil/print.phtml http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil.html SOMETHING TO READ http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ CCA-7705 5.800 in. to 9.800 in. adjustment range, Master pushrod length checker 4 piece kit ... $78.69 here http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/ http://www.topher.net/~bearman/gmheadcomp.html http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html heres some things to read. http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs69720.htm http://www.co.broward.fl.us/aqi03202.htm http://www.motoroilbible.com/five.html http://www.motoroilbible.com/two.html http://www.motoroilbible.com/six.html http://www.exxon.com/exxon_lubes/tigerbytes/documents/brochures/bro0020.htm http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/MobilPDS.nsf/26b7c4b33367a4a086256665004e4266/61638dff7d0453b085256b8400618b40?OpenDocument http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Oiltest.html http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.seansa4page.com/resource/synth.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html http://www.clevite.com/motorhead/techstuff/brgclear.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.aptfast.com/Flyer_HowTo_Dir/HowTo_Folder/Cam_Bearing_Install/Install_Cambearings.htm http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.gearheadtools.com/11148.htm http://www.gearheadtools.com/11249.htm http://www.theengineshop.com/tools.shtml heres the tool I use, I bought it used for $80 http://www.racenet.net/missing.php?url=http://www.racenet.net/valve/pow-cam-install.php http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.aera.org/tech/tb1465r.htm http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2016.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2022.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs69720.htm things that might be of interest http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/ http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/hei.htm http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20injection%20special-distr.%20mods.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/hei1.htm {grumpyvette, hope you don't mind. I made this topic sticky and tried to fix some of the UBB code errors so the links and colors work as you intended. Pete Paraska}

if you have specks of melted aluminum on the plugs you have already sustained some damage, the best way is to have a knock sensor and air/fuel meter when tuneing the engine

you can generally get close to about 1.2hp per inch of displacement before you start running into driveablity problems in most cars provided you gear and cam the engine correctly for the cars weight and compression, quite a bit more if your useing a supercharger,turbo, or nitrous

not many people build 327s any more BECAUSE the 327s mostly used the older small journal cranks and rods that are not as comon now 327s normally cost more than 350s to build now 327s/331s normally DON,T make quite as much hp as a 350- 355 engine 383s cost about the same and normally make for a faster car 327s normally require a solid lifter cam,and good quality valve springs and fairly frequent valve lash adjustments compared to a 383 and hydrolic cam making MORE POWER if your only looking for 350 hp your fuelie heads and 327 will work fine

"the question usually goes, hey, got a chance to buy fuelie heads for $100- $500, is this a great deal or what?" Iget it alot! thirty years ago FUELIE HEADS were the HOT TICKET but your dealing with heads that are thirty year old technology, they will most likey need at least a valve job,new valve guides and new springs and port work, by the time you put that much work and money in those heads youll have more than likely spent more money for worse results than buying the more modern heads that have not had 30 plus years of stress,corrosion,and bad valve jobs http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html HERES AVERAGE FUELIE HEAD FLOW NUMBERS http://www.kendrick-auto.com/462_chevy_head.htm heres two comon performance cylinder heads that are available today measured on the same flow bench http://www.kendrick-auto.com/dart_cs_iron_eagle_215.htm http://www.kendrick-auto.com/brodix_track_i__cs.htm THE CAM AND CYLINDER HEADs are some of the MOST IMPORTANT PARTS ON YOUR ENGINE AS FAR AS DETERMINING YOUR HP/TQ POTENTIAL YES THE FUELIE HEADS ARE BETTER THAN MOST STOCK HEADS, YES THEY CAN BE PORTED BY EXPERTS AND MAKE GOOD HP,BUT BY TODAYS STANDARDS THEY ARE STILL LESS THAN IDEAL. EVEN THE COMON VORTEC TRUCK HEADS CAN EASILY OUT FLOW THEM, http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND IF YOU SPEND MONEY ON ALMOST NO OTHER PARTS BUY GOOD HEADS, LOOK AT THESE ENGINE BUILDS http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html THE ONE THING YOULL FIND OUT IS HIGH HP ENGINES REQUIRE GOOD CYLINDER HEADS AND A MATCHING CAM, I CAN,T THINK OF A MUCH BIGGER OR MORE COMON MISTAKE THAT TRYING TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE WHILE RESTRICTING THE ENGINES POTENTIAL WITH STOCK HEADS a rough FORMULA/gauge to guess the hp POTENTIAL FROM THE CYLINDER HEADS FLOW NUMBERS is (.257 x flow at max cam lift x 8= potential max hp) so if you have 225cfm= about 462 hp if you have 260cfm= 535 hp now your highly unlikely to reach MAX HP POTENTIAL but the better heads will almost ALWAYS SHOW that 15% or better results. on a 400hp engine running fuelie heads that is likely to mean you would have had 460hp with the better heads (15% improvement) look over these heads ALPHABETICAL ORDER AFR BRODIX CANFIELD DART EDELBROCK G.M. PERFORMANCE PRO ACTION TRICKFLOW WORLD PRODUCTS heads they all have better heads

gtmattz look here http://www.thunderracing.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=subcategory&subcategoryid=1125 measure your hood clearance the STOCK HOLLEY STEALTH RAM is just over 10" tall from block to top surface IF YOU NEED MORE HOOD CLEARANCE http://www.fasterdeals.com/vette/ this is only 9" tall and can be dropped to 8 5/8" with minor machine work all sensors,throttle body, injectors, AND CPU, and wireing should be scavanged from a wrecked corvette from a donor 90-91 TPI TOTAL COST SHOULD BE UNDER $1000-$1200. you can resell the stock TPI intake itself to regain much of the money spent on the donor corvette parts

vortec heads can phyically bolt to a modified TPI intake but it is far better to use the correct base,because youll need several modifications to the standard intakes to get them fitted correctly, vortec ports are slightly higher and vortec heads have a differant bolt angle on the center intake mounting bolts, that require intake mods http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=1460 but DON,T USE IT OR ANY TPI stock intake, a TPI is designed for low and mid RPM tq, a 327 is best set up as a high rpm engine, a TPI would seriously restrict hp above about 5000rpm due to restricted air flow, the HOLLEY STEALTH RAM IS A GOOD 60-70 hp upgrade with the correctly matched cam, with its far better flowing runners, and while were at it, a vortec head is not the best high performance head if your building a high performance engine, there are heads that flow better and require far less mods to run high lift long duration cams designed for max hp in the upper rpm ranges. vortec heads are designed for max mid range torque in trucks, true they make good hp BUT... theres other choices that make far better hp/tq http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html

detonation you can,t even hear can and will eventually destroy your engine things to read http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.charles-city.k12.ia.us/high/academics/auto/dap.html http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm http://www.rolexhaust.com/Technical/Analysis/Detonation.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://www.designnotes.com/CIRCUITS/tiknockap039.htm http://www.kempower.be/LECU/knock.htm http://web.mm.rmit.edu.au/Web_Page/ME478_Lecture_Notes_files/Lecture_11.pdf http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0348/printArticle.html http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/scanmaster.html

besides the normal checks for deck height, line hone,and splayed main caps, making sure all the threaded holes are correct, the cylinders honed lifter bores are correct, theres the little things, I paint the inside surfaces of my blocks with http://www.glyptal.com/1209_black_enamel.htm to lock in place any micro dust left after the last total cleaning before assembly, to speed the oil flow back to the oil pan and help prevent corrosion BTW I bought 16 rubber corks to push into the lifter bores to prevent paint entering the lifter bores durring the painting, I placed 16 mini-screw eyes in the corks and strung them on a bead chain to keep from loseing them while in storage or in use! http://www.camtattoo.com/camshop/home.html?target=Piercing_SuppliesCorks_zg_Receiving_Tubes.html Ive used BOTH RUSTOLEUM (BRITE YELLOW) and Glyptal but lately just several coats of BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM ON OVER THE glyptal EPOXY BASE COAT,COVERED BYE BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM APPLIED ON THE TOTALLY CLEANED AND DEGREASED AND DRIED BLOCK, (BTW A TOTAL DEGREASE OF THE BLOCK WITH ACETONE,and LINT FREE CLOTH, AND A heat gun or hair drier to totally dry the block just before cleaning helps the paint get a firm grip on the block surface) and dont forget you should remember the option to J&B EPOXY a MAGNET in the lifter gallery BEFORE painting the surfaces if you want to permenantly afix it on the block. (which do a great job at picking up micro metalic dust) http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet1.html I buy and use the 1 quart size cans of brite yellow paint at the local hardware store <b> keep in mind that YOU MUST ALLOW THE PAINT TO TOTALLY DRY BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE, AND THAT NORMALLY TAKES A FULL DAY IN THE HOT FLA HEAT (85 degrees (F)is a fairly average temp here</b> #7747 Sunburst Yellow http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1 <b> I use brite yellow on both the interior and exterior of the engine blocks I build because it makes finding oil leaks very easy once the engines in use in the corvettes where space is cramped and finding small leaks can sometimes be a problem</b>Actually the idea is to grind away all casting flash (the rough sandy looking surface) from the inside of the block, and then wash thoroughly, dry thoroughly, then apply the paint. This takes a long time and must be done carefully which is why most engine builders don't do it, but engine builders on racing teams do it. It's not only to assist in oil drainback but also keeps the oil from clinging to the block and coking. In racing engines the benefits are slight but apparently noteworthy, check out any GTP type race car engine and you'll see this done as standard block prep.here read. it will help, http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.htm http://www.hardblok.com/info.html http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm http://www.se-r.net/engine/block_prep.html now in addition to that info , heres what I do (1) get the block totally cleaned, DEGREASED and CHECKED by a GOOD MACHINE SHOP BEFORE INVESTING MONEY IN IT! (2) have new cam bearings and freeze plugs , oil plugs,installed only after all other machine work is done and after a extensive recleaning of all the oil passages just prior to starting assembly (3) screens over the oil drain back holes are a good idea ONLY if your willing to change oil and filters very frequently (4) several powerfull magnets in the oil pan and one in the rear of each cylinderhead to trap small metal parts is EXCELLENT INSURANCE (5) polishing and smoothing the valve edges and combustion chambers helps prevent detonation (6) if your pouring the block,never fill the water passages higher than the bottom of the freeze plug holes on a street engine (7) 7 or more qt oil pans with BAFFLES AND A WINDAGE SCREEN like MILODON MAKES are a GREAT IDEA

retired engineer MECH. and ELEC. hobbies SERIOUS ENGINE BUILDING/RACING /ELK HUNTING Ive had corvettes all my life, raced most of them and built way over 150 plus engines in the last 33 plus years,(lost count a few years back) now that might sound like alot but its not, thats only an average of 5-8 a year for myself and close friends, I supported my self for awhile doing it but, it loses most of the fun if theres strict dead lines Ive got 5 bbc and one sbc engine in the garage now, I keep busy but i broke my ankle (crushed) last year so this years been very slow

things to read carefully http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Oiltest.html http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3oilfilter.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.seansa4page.com/resource/synth.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.4unique.com/lubrication/lubrication_tutorial.htm http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/tenmythsaboutsyntheticlubrication.htm http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/about_esters.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/auto_technology/2002/8/motor_oil/print.phtml http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil.html

my neighbor came over with his new 502/1967 chevelle (this applies to BOTH BIG AND SMALL BLOCK V/8s and corvettes too!) he said the engine leaks oil badly when he accelerates hard yet hes replaced the oil pan gasket and no change, and altho the frames soaked the damn engine won,t leak at all while idleing on a lift to find the leak! EXPERIANCE COUNTS I knew the answer before you go pulling the oil pan theres something you should know. on some blocks in fact most blocks theres 4 bolt holes normally used for early marine style front plate motor mounts that bolt to the front of the block, theres two holes on each side, one above the other spaced about 3" apart vertically, on some blocks these holes are blind and can,t leak,but on others one or more are drilled into an area where oil will leak out ,(especially at above 2000rpm)if a 1/2 long 3/8 NC thread bolts not coated with loctite and seated. you sure would not be the first guy thats told me hes replaced the oil pan gasket yet the car still leaks oil under higher rpms but at idle there seems to be no leak?

clearance link

the differance in oil pump primers is that oil pump primer drives that look like this won,t seal both oil passages in the block LIKE THE LOWER DISTRIBUTOR BODY IS DESIGNED TO DO! you need to use the CORRECT TYPE THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS look at the oil passage lay out now look at the distributor lower end, it forms one side of one of the main oil passages when installed in the block, without it that passage can,t build pressure so no oil flows past that opoint under pressure without the distributor in place! those two oil rings on the lower body seal the oil passage, on a stock chevy distributor they allow it to leak so some oil flows to the cam/distributor gears, bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8’s and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030"( thats the diam. that crane recommends on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the cam. This procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed

you want LT1/LT4 we got info http://www.idavette.net/winback/lt115.htm http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/36501/ http://www.protechmachine.net/lt4/lt4.html http://www.thunderracing.com/lt1inteng.htm#CNC http://phil.tobin.net/Hoover/index.html http://www.gmmodernmuscle.com/383/383build.html http://www.h-body.org/people/projects/building_lt1/lt1%20info.html http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm http://www.hashmarks.com/dyno_page.htm http://www.mochevracing.com/Corvette/lt1lt4.html http://www.lt1motorsports.com/396LT1.htm http://www.lt4.com/story.htm http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://www.kendrick-auto.com/lt_1__gm_head.htm http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html http://www.gulicks.com/vette/projects/opti/index.html http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/ http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm http://www.corvetteclinicinc.com/ http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758

before you do ANYTHING ELSE,FIND THE TRUE LOCATION OF TDC, and ADJUST BOTH THE DAMPER AND TIMING TAB TO MATCH THE INTAKE , ON OR OFF HAS NO EFFECT, JUST BE SURE TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT OF GEAR AND PUT THE PARKING BRAKE ON AND REMOVE THE ROCKER ARMS FROM CYLINDER #1 BEFORE STARTING SO YOU DON,T DAMAGE THE VALVES AND REMOVE THE PLUGS FROM THE OTHER CYLINDERS TO MAKE THE ENGINE EASY TO TURN WITH A BREAKER BAR AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY SO NO ONE HITS THE STARTER AND DAMAGES A PISTON http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3316&prmenbr=361" look closely you can easily build your own with a 7/16" tap and an old spark plug and a 7/16" bolt http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyTDC.html ok heres how you do it without spending much money, first get a majic marker and pull all your spark plugs. make a piston stop from an old spark plug and bolt. remove the rocker arms from cylinder #1 install the piston stop and BY HAND NOT THE STARTER rotate the engine untill the piston stops when it hits the piston stop as it almost reaches TDC, take the majic marker and draw a line on your timeing tab exactly even with the timeing line on your damper, now rotate the engine in the other direction untill it stops and again take the majic marker and draw a line on your timeing tab exactly even with the timeing line on your damper the marks will be about 1'-1.5" apart depending on how far down the cylinder the piston stopped., TDC on the tab is exactly in the center of the two marks, now remove the piston stop, rotate the damper to the CORRECT TDC location hopefullly its where the factory line says it should be) if not remark the tab or bend it enough to have TDC on the tab correctly located the further you screw in the piston stop the lower in the cylinder the piston is stopped, and the further apart the two marks will be but TDC will still be centered between the two marks in the timeing tab of course if you stop the piston extremely low in the cylinder the marks will be so far apart that they don,t fit on the timing tab, I try for stopping the piston about 1/8" down in the cylinder

http://www.c4vettes.com/ecm.htm heres what the chart says 1985-1990) Inspect intake system for leaks, Inspect for vacuum leaks, Check MAF connector and wiring, Check MAF for open using digital Ohm meter. Possible ECM failure. 33 (1984) Check vacuum hoses. Check wiring to sensor. Change sensor. Check connections at ECM. now logically the engine pulls EXACTLY the same volume of air thru the throttle body at any rpm reguardless if its a 58mm or 48mm, are you useing the same sensors (IAC,TPS,MAF) on BOTH THROTTLE BODIES ?, are all the same vacume lines hooked up exactly the same in the same places? and have you checked for vacume leaks , I have a BBK 58mm throttle body on my 383, the maf sensor gave me fits for several hours once and it turned out that the bolts holding the stock sensor securely were too long to correctly tighten the BBK throttle body firmly to the front of the plenum and seal the gasket correctly. is the IAC manifold under the throttle body sealing to the throttle body lower surface?, personally Id try swapping the bbk throttle body to a second car, and see if the problem moves with that particular throttle body as a test if all else fails get a copy of chevy TPI fuel injection swappers guide, S/A DESIGN BOOKS has a good trouble shooting guide, proble causes are TPS set wrong idle to low, throttle open less than 4% for over 6 seconds a open connector on ckt 470, swapping sensors one at a time with a known good vehical is a fast way to check suspect sensors

subdermal what was the engine combo used

your engines clearances determine the correct viscosity of oil to use! engine oil preforms best in the 230f-240f temp window, keep in mind mineral base oil tends to break down at temps over 250f-260f over long periods so synthetic oil might be an advantage,oil temps below 215f are a very big NO-NO in that the engine can,t burn off any water vapor in the oilpan/block and corrosion can be a problem. coolent temps durring hard running should not exceed about 220f and 210f is better, but lower temps than 200f tend to cause a slight power drop, now you might look at those temps like I did and say they are all just a little to high! well SMOKEY YUNICK doing testing for G.M. was spending thousands of dollars in dyno testing to find out! Ill take his dyno results over guessing any day!. yes I know, coolent temps of 160f-180f tend to help limit detonation problems, but your giving up a small potential in hp at least in theory youll need to use the MINIMUM viscosity of oil that maintains about 20lbs-25lbs of oil pressure at idle speeds when the oils up to at least 200 degs f, with proper bearing clearances that tends to be close to 10w30 and ID HIGHLY RECOMMEND MOBILE 1 OIL and A GOOD FILTER CHANGED OFTEN matched to a well designed oil pan and windage screen IVE POSTED MOST OF THIS BEFORE BUT IT FITS HERE AS A SOURCE OF INFO FOR THE NEWER GUYS if you have the chance go an get a better baffled higher capacity oil pan that is engineered to control the oil supply better, NOTICE not once did I say spend tons of money, please pay attention while I prove my case! http://www.melling.com/highvol.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. [color:"red"] since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines [/color] that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better,(AS LONG AS ITS TOTALLY UNDER CONTROL ON BOTH THE PRESSURE AND RETURN/SCAVAGEING SIDES OF THE SYSTEMchevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either. Continued (oil Pan/pump) the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the engine clearances allow at the max pressure that the oil pump bye -pass circuit will allow, and no more. for your idea to be correct (which it could be under some conditions)the oil flow through the engine clearances would need to be so great that the pump turning at 3500rpm,7000rpm engine speed(remember the pump spins 1/2 the speed the crank does)and most likely pumping at max pressure could lower the oil level to the point that the pick-up becomes uncovered or a vortex as you call it forms and the pump starts sucking air. now under hard acceleration it is very possiable for the pickup on ANY oil pump to to become uncovered in a oil pan that has less than 5qt capacity and with no oil control baffles as the oil rushes to the rear of the oil pan if the pick-up is located in mid pan or under hard brakeing if the pick-up is located at the rear of the pan on a non- oil baffle controlled pan. I will grant you that it is possiable for ANY oil pump to pump a good amount of oil into the lifter gallery at high rpms IF THE OIL RETURN PASSAGES IN THE HEADS AND LIFTER GALLERY ARE BLOCKED, preventing its normal return to the crankcase , but running a high volume oil pump will have little or nothing to do with how much oil is in the pan if the engines drain back holes are clear and your useing a milodon style windage screen. I have several times had that same complaint about lack of oil pressure under acceleration but it is caused by a non-baffled pan or the pickup mounted so close to the pan bottom that the pump cant get a good intake flow, if you carefully check youll find that on a dyno runs it seldom happens,because the oil is constantly removed by the windage screen is returned to the sump, most of the oil pumped into the system exits at the rod and main bearing clearances or at the cam bearings and from the lifter bores lower ends, its not the constant oil flow or lack of oil into the rocker arms that has the big effect on total oil flow as SMOKEY YUNICKS PHOTOGRAPIC RESEARCH PROVED YEARS AGO,its the oil flowing from the bearings and lifters and that oil flow is quickly returned to the sump by a windage screen scrapeing it off the spinning crank and rods as the spinning assembly passes over the windage screen. in effect most of the oil in an engine works like your timeing chain in that it constantly cycles top to botton and back never getting higher than the cam bearing lifter area. [color:"red"] now what does quite frequently happen [/color] is that the guys installing a high volume oil pump just swap out the standard pump, reinstall the stock or simular pick-up and bolt on the pan with the pick-up in the stock possition on the oil pump. the stock pick-up is mounted about 3/8" off the pan bottom,the high volume pump is normally equiped with impeller gears about .3 inches longer than stock, the high volume pump body is that much lower in the pan, resultting in the pick-up being only about 1/8" from the pan bottom. the result is that on a normal chevy oil pump pick-up this leave a space of about 1/8" x 2.5" for oil to flow into the pump. at low rpms this works but as the rpms climb the pick-up that can,t get any oil to pump cavitates as it spins and fails to pump oil, result oil pressure drops untill rpms are lowered no matter how much oil is over the pick-up. simply checking to make sure that anout 1/2" of space is under the pick-up when the pan is installed cures that problem (a simple trick is to weld a 1/2" thick nut to the oil pump Pick-up base and test fitting the pan BEFORE WELDING THE PICK-UP TO THE PUMP BODY) what it comes down too in every case that Ive looked into so far is a improperly positioned pick-up or a non- baffled oil pan without a windage screen or less than 5 qts of oil in the system, not a problem of all available oil being pumped into the lifter gallery and valve covers like some people would like you to think. the MELLING COMPANY HAS THIS TO SAY Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump. The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing. A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter. The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine. Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster. That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do. It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out. It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top. It will not wear out distributor gears. The load on the gear is directly related to the resistance to flow. Oil pressure is the measure of resistance to flow. The Ford 427 FE "side oiler" used a pump with relief valve set at 125 psi and it used a standard distributor gear. Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment. It will not cause foaming of the oil. With any oil pump, the excess oil not needed by the engine is recirculated within the pump. Any additional foaming is usually created by revving the engine higher. The oil thrown from the rod bearings is going faster and causes the foaming. This is why high performance engines use a windage tray. It will not cause spark scatter. Because of the pump pressure there is a load on the distributor gear. The number of teeth on the oil pump gears determine the number of impulses per revolution of the pump. In a SB Chevy there are seven teeth on each gear giving 14 impulses per revolution. At 6000 RPM the oil pump is turning 3000 RPM or 50 revolutions per second. To have an effect on the distributor, these impulses would have to vibrate the distributor gear through an intermediate shaft that has loose connections at both ends. Spark scatter is usually caused by weak springs in the points or dust inside the distributor cap. BTW > The bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. <P>When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8’s and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030"( <B>thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger groove with no problems</B>)deep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the cam.<P>This procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using.<P> <P> <B> keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed as a general rule youll want to run the thinnest weight oil that will maintain about 20 lbs of oil pressure in a hot (200f)engine at idle, remember oil flow over the bearings COOLS by ABSORBING HEAT and carrying it into the oil pan, oil cooler or letting the cooler block surfaces absorb the heat for the cooling system to remove, to cool the bearings and lifter contact points ETC. the greater the voluum of oil flowing over the bearings the more heat can be carried away and the more constant the surface temp. can be. and be fore someone jumps in with that [color:"red"] old myth that oil flowing over the surfaces to fast will fail to pick up the heat from the bearings [/color] let me point out this chart http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html heres other info, http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/oil.htm http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2023.html here this will help http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89734.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.aera.org/tech/tb1465r.htm http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2016.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2022.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.dragnbreath.com/Clevite/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2028cambrgs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs69720.htm http://www.cryoeng.com/images/EngineDurabilitySecrets.htm http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/engine2t.htm

http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7062/engine.html http://www.advanceadapters.com/newidea.html http://www.engineswaps.com/ http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/length.html http://driveshaftmasters.com/troubleshootingshafts.html http://www.tciauto.com/specialty/adapter_kits.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/gmt56inst.html the BBC 454, pontiac 455 and CADDY 500 are good places to start looking!

How to Build the Smallblock Chevrolet John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget Smokey Yunick's Power Secrects How to Build and Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Camshafts and Valvetrains

your correct the duct with the MAF sensor are not in the picture mounted infront of the throttle body, and the nirtous plate behind the throttle body (THERES A GOOD REASON) I don,t want the info getting out as to what Im testing, IM OLD BUT I LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES ABOUT GIVEING TOO MUCH INFO OUT!

custom 383 full roller , all forged, 11:1 cpr,engine CRANE #119661 hydrolic roller (installed retarded 6 degrees) .021 coper head gasket,cam,ported trickflow 200cc heads,(about 210cc now)custom stealth ram, 32lb injectors,custom chip,custom built plenum,58mm throttle body,6" rods, slp forged pistons,total seal gapless rings 9.5 qt baffled custom oil pan,milodon windage screen,jackson gear drive,1 3/4 , with custom merge collector headers, full 3" exhaust, 1.6 erson roller rockers, 200hp nitrous plate,all forged rotateing internally ballanced assembly,fluidamper ballancer pollished combustion chambers,ballanced engine , splayed 4 bolt block, LS7 oil pump,all internals pollished, try that in DD-2000 BTW a stealthram is a 1050cfm TUNNELRAM intake converted to EFI pictures you might want to look at

read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=397334&Forum=UBB64&Words=LSA&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=3&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=397176&Search=true#Post397334 if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/index.html http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=200511&Forum=UBB64&Words=your%20kidding&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=200510&Search=true#Post200511 http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page05.htm http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html