grumpyvette

HERES ONE WAY TO DO IT! http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html HEREs how Ive always done it with hydrolic lifters,AND no it may not be the trick way but it works just fine! bring the engine up to TDC (no it does not matter if its fireing #1 or #6) adjust any loose rockers until a 15 thousands feeler gauge just slips between the rocker and valve stem tip, [color:"red"] now turn the engine 90 degrees and repeat,[/color] (adjust any loose rockers until a 15 thousands feeler gauge just slips between the rocker and valve stem tip) repeat that 14 more times (with a friend working the breaker bar and you useing the feeler gauge and a 5/8 adjustment tool this takes under 5 minutes. now install one valve cover on the side your not finish adjusting and a tall valve cover with the top cut out that your useing to limit oil on the headers on the side you are adjusting the valves on and start the engine, allow it to get up to idle and back off each adjustment nut untill the rocker just clicks then slowly tighten until it just stops clicking, now add a 1/4 -3/8 turn preload and move to the next rocker, after one side is quite swap valve covers and repeat on the other side, once thats correct remove the tall valve cover with the top cut out that your useing to limit oil on the headers and replace with your normal valve cover after the cam breaks in, change the oil and filter and re-adjust after the first hours running time ( the only differance with solid lifter cams is you adjust the clicking with a .017-.022 feeler gauge between the rocker and valve stem (look at your cam spec card for exact lash clearance)and theres NO PRELOAD, just carefully adjust till the clicking JUST STOPS at IDLE with the feeler gauge in place, then lock the adjustment nut and remove the feeler gauge) use lots of moly cam assembly lube and a can of G.M. EOS in the oil when breaking in a new cam http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/005796.html http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/214e.pdf http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm

other options http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm http://www.suspension.com/Must-IRS.htm (you can buy one used from a wreck MUCH CHEAPER) http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0009.html

it can be even about 1/4" above the lower edge of the windage screen while the engines not running because the oil level will drop 1/2-3/4" after the engines running for a minute again

7733 SH1 Steel Shim .015 $10.99 http://www.flatlanderracing.com/perfgaskets.html for a 100 shot back off 4-6 degrees of timing go up about 4 sizes in carb jets if its a dry spray nitrous heres something you may want to look at http://www.ws6.com/mod-13.htm

this is simple if you think about it, the OBJECT IS TO TOTALLY INSURE A STEAD FLOW OF OIL AT ALL TIMES TO YOUR ENGINES MOVING PARTS, measure the lowest point that the crank assembly swings below the lower block pan rails, lets say its 4.23" inches,(not including the windage screen that ideally spaced about 3/16" lower) now thats the highest the oil level should be! your oil pan depth on your car will be determined by the ground clearance needed (on my corvette thats a pan, 7.5" deep maximum) my oil pan has a custom wide baffled sump thats roughly 12" x 14.9" x 3" added to the lower 3" of the oil pan, thats 536 cubic inches, a quart equals 61 cubic inches of volume, or 8.79 quarts I put 9.5 quarts in the car because theres at least one quart in the upper engine while its running , <b> oil is the life of your engine , you must make sure the oil pump NEVER SUCKS AIR OR HAS A LIMITED SUPPLY/FEED INTO THE PICKUP</b> I bought an oil pan that looked some what like this from http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/mms.nsf/pages/Specials for $89 installed it and carefully measured and marked it and had a local welding shop extend the sump forward about 7 inches to increase the oil capacity (MY WELDER WAS BROKEN THAT WEEK, COST ME $80 but well worth the minimum costs envolved) DON,T FORGET ITS A SYSTEM YOU NEED THESE ALSO http://www.melling.com/highvol.html</a> <A HREF="http://www.melling.com/engoil.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.melling.com/engoil.html ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better.chevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely helps The bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8’s and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030"( thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger groove with no problemsdeep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the camThis procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using. keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed

YOU MUST USE A BRONZE GEAR ON STEEL GEAR CAMS UNLESS THEY HAVE A CAST IRON GEAR INSTALLED ON THAT STEEL CAM, A STEEL CAM GEAR WILL QUICKLY WEAR ON AN IRON DIST. GEAR, STEEL GEARS REQUIRE A MATCHING BRONZE DIST. GEAR http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/257g.pdf http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/323e.pdf The bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8’s and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030"( thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger groove with no problems deep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the camThis procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using.<P> keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed

I DON,T HAVE A BIG BLOCK (Z) I said I HELPED BUILD ONE! AND IVE WORKED ON and HELPED MODIFY SEVERAL OF THEM OVER THE YEARS(and about a dozen differant sbc (Z)s ) my cousin had one he bought 1/2 built that we finished building also btw all the roll cage things you mentioned are true " (is that triangulated structures are vastly superior to quadrilaterals, and swing-out bars, such as door X-bars, might be OK for rollover protection purposes, but they don’t help much with chassis stiffening.)" . (My car has welded-in X-bars which tie to the frame rails in the bottom front (diagonals inside the wheel wells), the dash bar in the top front, and the roll bar in back.) SOUNDS GOOD now I have built and raced AND OWNED a full roll cage 68 corvette with a fuel injected 496 big block that ran consistant 10.25/135mph that had extensive mods (IVE ALWAYS BEEN A CORVETTE NUT) now I took a differant approach on the big block (Z) build , what I basically did was remove the front clip/suspension and all of the interior and floor, I took very carefull measurements then built a roll cage and lowered the body skin over the roll cage and welded it in place, the passenger door was partly blocked with a diagonal brace, the drivers side door had a swing out brace.It was made out of 2" moly tube I bent and cut to fit, the lower frame rail was made of 2 -2"moly tubes placed side by side and welded together tha extended forward of the engine to the bumper brackets an tied together and to the rear bumper with diagonal braces

(1) 18 degree trickflow heads? (if I read that correctly your thinking of putting sbc heads on a bbc block?) OR ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT THE BIG DUKE HEADS http://sonnysracingengines.com/flyers/BIGDUKEINDUCTIONKIT.htm heres what your talking about and its too expensive and not necessary http://sonnysracingengines.com/flyers/632CUINBIGDUKE.htm heres a much more realistic engine http://sonnysracingengines.com/flyers/PROBRACKET%20555CUINCHEVY.htm but these are even cheaper and will still get you 800hp http://www.theengineshop.com/engine6.shtml and are a good deal for what you get but heres what Id do BECAUSE I HATE WASTEING MONEY[/b] Id get a merlin block, kit like this http://www.theengineshop.com/sbkits7.shtml add AFR 357cc heads http://www.airflowresearch.com a good 500hp nitrous kit and a crane " http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=138781++&B1=Display+Card and a good edelbrock super vic intake with a 1150cfm holley that puts you well over 1000 hp for about $14,000

with a correctly installed full end to end roll cage includeing suspension brackets ETC, you will not need other tower braces (they will be there already) and most of the suspension connection points will be also dirrectly on the roll cage http://www.swracecars.com/rolbarlist.html#anchor1158811 http://www.upgrademotoring.com/safety/autopower_app.htm http://www.cscracing.com/ck.htm

what would be "BEST" is to re-ring the engine to reduce the loss of CYLINDER PRESSURE GETTING PAST THE RINGS!!!! if DUAL breathers can,t keep up with the crankcase pressure somethings very WRONG!!

get the roll cage correctly installed, it could save your life! next think about this, the car will easily run 10,0@138mph if its set up correctly, if you blew a tire or snapped an axle at 138mph and rolled the car how would the stiffer floor help? most tracks REQUIRE a roll cage on cars that E.T. quicker than 11.0 in the quarter mile. if the door bar is your problem, they make snap out swing bars for door bars(to make getting in and out easy) BTW having built and driven a 454 (Z) I can tell you that theres NOT A CHANCE IN THE WORLD YOULL KEEP THE BODY FROM FLEXING durring SHIFTS WITH 750HP if YOUR GETTING TRACTION WITHOUT A FULL ROLL CAGE!!!!!

heres some info to read, http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/rick/rodstudy.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/rodslength.cfm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/rodsstock.cfm http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/Luke-schreier/unzip/Tension%20and%20Compression%20in%20Connecting%20Rods%20VI.htm http://www.laffey.co.uk/budget/ratios.htm http://www.arp-bolts.com/media/pdf_files/RB_16-18.pdf short answer, if you can afford it the minimum mod to stock rods would be adding ARP rod bolts and resizeing , pollishing and mag. checking the rods for flaws , but youll soon find that the cost of the bolts,machine shop and testing comes to more than a good set of 7/16" rod bolt equiped (SCAT,EAGLE, or CAT rods)ALL of which are stronger than the factory 3/8" bolt rods EXAMPLE, theres no way to even approach the quality and strength of these rods for the same money starting with stock rods and stock sbc rods are optomistically rated at 450-500hp AFTER ROD MODS now most machine shops will charge $120-$150 to install ARP rod bolts, $150 to polish and inspect and resize stock rods at the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM so by the time you add in brass piston pin sleaves, oil holes and rough ballanceing youll have more money in INFERIOR RODS if you use stock factory rods Description: C-C Length: 6.000", Gram Weight: 645 Large Journal: 2.100" Crank Pin, Piston Pin: 0.927", B.E.Width: 0.940" Horespower Range 700+ HP at 8000 RPM Note: Horespower range is affected by Rpm, Stroke and piston weight "ESP" Features and Benifits 2-Piece forging for increased strength ARP 7/16" 8740 capscrews bolts standard (190,000 psi) Silicon Bronze bushings for floating pins. Multi-stage heat treated . Certified 4340 steel, vacuum, decreased remove impurities. Each forging is X-rayed, sonic tested & magnifluxed to insure quality. All surfaces are 100% machined. Shot peened to stress relieve the metal. Stroker Design provides cam clearance for 3.800 on small block Chevy and 4.250 on big block Chevy engines with no modification These connecting rods provide the strength & durability required in unlimited engines at a sportsman rod price. 8 New Rods Ready to run, Installation instructions & bolt lubricant included CNC-Motorsports Grantees's all Eagle products. Please Call 1-605-692-1697 For additional product information $20.00 SHIPPING!!

look at the rods , both the (h) and (I) beam AFTERMARKET RODS are FITTED with bolts that SCREW into the rod body from the bottom of the rod cap the CENTER ROD WHILE NOT A CHEVY ROD shows the built in flaw that that style rod has in that any grinding for extra clearance on the head of the rod bolt weakens the rod bolt at least slightly, its not so much the (I) or (H) design as it is the ROD/NUT method of holding the STOCK style rods together, but to answer your question, [color:"red"] yes as a general rule getting the style rod that has a 7/16" ARP rod bolt that screws into the rod body significantly increases the strength of the rods over the 3/8" stock chevy style rods that use nuts to hold the rods together [/color] also keep in mind that a 7/16" rod bolt is 36% larger in area than a 3/8" rod bolt and tends to be made out of far stronger steel, the total differance in strength can easily EXCEED 200 % stronger rods for the 7/16" cap screw rod verus the stock chevy rod LOOK CLOSELY AT THE LINK BELOW,ALL THE STRESS ON THE LOWER END IS WHERE THE ROD BOLTS OR THEIR HEAD/NUTS NEED TO BE STRONGEST http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/8K.html

your limited to about 4 degrees advance and 6 degrees retard from the standard install marks with any cam before a differant cam will be a MUCH better choice, youll see about a 200rpm shift in the TORQUE PEAK CURVE for every 4 degrees changed, look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf that rarely amounts to a .1 differance in piston location (thats a tenth of an inch ) in relation to valve position and rarely gains or loses you more than 4-6 hp (normally less)

33 years as a mechanical engineer (my job) well over 140 engines personally built , (my full time hobby)mostly for other hotrodders(lost track years ago!) several race cars, both road racing and drag racing best door slammer (personally owned car)ET 10.25 seconds @135mph several other people have run faster with engines Ive built highest speed, 187mph (2 mile run in corvette road racer) but keep in mind I built engines for a part time job for several years to suppliment my income. and most of the engines built were and are for hotrodders/corvette nuts like myself basic corvette nut yeah Im still learning

"I think that my problem was with the low CR I had to get rid of my 4:11 gears. or get a cam so big that I would need a VERY high stall conveter. " that makes no sence! if you needed more dynamic compression you needed EITHER higher static (new higher compression pistons) or a SMALLER CAM, NOT A LARGER CAM!

307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod) 3956632....307.....69....2bolt theres no reason that you cant get 300hp out of that 307, put vortec heads like these http://Parts@sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html and headers and a cam like this http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=113841&B1=Display+Card and an intake like this Performer RPM Vortec ....#7116* and youll have your 300 plus flywheel hp the only problem is it will require several things like head work for extra clearance,new valve covers, new rocker arms,and several other things that will boost the cost to more than its really worth in most peoples opinion, at about $1600-$1700 by the time you add in the gaskets, rings bearings and machine work. now don,t get me wrong youll have about 320hp-330hp for about $1700 so thats not bad its just that youll have about 50 more hp if you started with a 350. and thats with you doing all the work! for a few bucks more you could buy this install the cam and intake and headers and be ahead by that 50hp (350-380hp) http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=128&pid=101

THERES almost ZERO CHANCE of problems if you use safety valves, carefully follow the correct instalation procedures and use safety solinoids and don,t use a bottle heater

http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/randysresume/Headguide.html http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sbch.html http://www.topher.net/~bearman/gmheadcomp.html heres my quick check list I use when pocket porting, It may help, its sure not everything but it will get you started (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias take the time to read this http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/ http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb120121.htm http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_2.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_3.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_4.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Circle_Track-Swirl_Power_5.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_1.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_2.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_3.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_4.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_5.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_6.jpg http://www.theoldone.com/articles/Hot_Rod-Talking_Heads_7.jpg

Your Car is Slow your correct,(Dont scare the dude...the relief valve will give way long before the bottle explodes) true but theres been more than ONE screw up altho everyone has been IDIOT induced, and with just a partly functioning brain would never have happened

things you should KNOW ABOUT NITROUS YOU MUST RETARD THE IGNITION TIMING ABOUT 2 DEGREES PER 50hp NITROUS SHOT never use a bottle heater without an oil pressure overide switch that turns it off if the engines not running, and/or (an over pressure bleed off valve) this prevent you from walking off and letting the bottle cook ( POTENTIAL EXPLOSION TO FOLLOW SOON) without them (its better to be totally safe with them than at risk without them) always run slightly on the rich side of 13.5:1 under a nitrous load on a street engine to save the pistons/rings never hit the button on a wet street at any speed hitting the button before your in second gear when not useing slicks seldom results in anything but tire smoke and SLOWER ETs on street tires. a switch to turn the system (ON) and a SECOND SWITCH to turn the nitrous ON after a .1 (tenth second delay) after second gear is ingauged are great ideas both a minimum fuel pressure cut-off switch and a engine rpm window switch are worth their weight in GOLD on a nitrous system a minimum fuel pressure cut-off switch cuts the nitrous off if the fuel pressure falls (almost instant very lean condition results that burns holes in pistons if the nitrous flows but no extra matching fuel flows) . . a engine rpm window switch won,t allow the nitrous to flow below a set RPM level (usually 3500rp min my engines) or above a second rpm level. the low rpm switch helps prevent busted cranks and pistons from back-fires and filling the whole engine with nitrous before you hit the ignition or flooding the cylinders at just off idle . the higher limit switch prevents things like fried clutchs, trashed converters,busted drive shafts ETC. from letting the nitrous loaded engine from instantly buzzing to a one way trip to 12000rpm I usually set the upper limit nitrous switch about 300rpm lower than the ignition rev limiter cut in point for what should be obvious reasons(you don,t want the ignition cut off allowing full cylinders of fuel/nitrous unburnt dumped into the headers) http://www.lt1f-body.racenet.net/nitrous.php http://www.krcperformance.net/newcontent/fastsystem.html http://www.geocities.com/stevetoppe/nitrous.html http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/september01/nitrous.shtml

I did not write this but took it from my notes, Gas Burn Rate Several factors affect the burn rate (flame speed) of the gas. The air-fuel ratio (a/f/r) affects burn rate. Mixtures with a/f/r of less than 11:1 have little chance of burning (to rich), and a/f/r greater than 20:1 have little chance of burning (too lean). The fastest burn rate is at 17:1 but that is far to lean for reduced emissions, and way to lean for maximum power. Best power is achieved at an a/f/r of 12.6:1. Homogeny of the gas affects the gas burn rate. Homogeny refers to the uniform distribution of air and fuel molecules within the gas mixture. As we mentioned earlier, the a/f/r affects burn rate, so homogeny also affects burn rate. Homogeny also introduces another issue concerning failure of ignition. If the localized a/f/r where the spark plug is located is to lean or to rich due to poor homogeny, then the spark plug will fail to ignite the gas, and that power stroke will be missed. This concept is referred to as the probability of ignition. The better the homogeny, the greater the probability of consistent ignition for each power stroke. Because poor homogeny can cause ignition failure, a longer duration spark discharge into the spark plug is better than a shorter discharge duration. The turbulence and swirling actions due to the intake port shape and piston motion, may very well replace that lean mixture with a normal mixture while the spark is still arcing. When this happens, then the probability of ignition is improved. Multiple sparks can help to overcome the failed sparks (due to homogeny problems) but multiple sparks will not make the combustion gas burn any faster. Dual spark plugs could make the resultant gas burn time shorter because of two burn sources. Sort of like burning a candle from both ends. The candle will burn faster this way, and so will the combustion gases. But each end of the candle still burns at the same rate. A rotary engine is the exception, and uses multi-spark dual spark plugs to compensate for poor homogeny due to the abnormally long combustion shape of the rotor in conjunction with the ported intake gas flow. Turbulence, Squish & Quench As mentioned earlier, the shape of the combustion chamber can help to prevent detonation in two ways. The shape of the piston crown as it approaches the shape of the cylinder head, can create tremendous turbulence in the gas. This squishing of the gas mixture causes swirling and tumbling actions which causes shear tearing of the air & fuel molecules, which results in better homogenization. This improved mixing of the gas makes the gas burn faster. The same gas when burned faster has less time for spontaneous combustion. The faster the burn, the less time that is available for detonation to take place. Another advantage of a faster burn is that ignition spark doesn't need as much advance. With less ignition advance, there is less time to build burn pressures before reaching TDC. This reduces braking action to the piston compression pressure, which increases pumping efficiency of the engine. This results in less power wasted to pump the engine cylinders. Quench is quite another story. It is reasonable to expect that the gas in direct contact with the metal cylinder walls, piston crown, and the cylinder head surface; would be cooler because the metal absorbs heat from the gas (the metal is cool as compared to the burn flame temperature which can reach 5000F degrees). Because this thin layer is cooler, it does not burn and results in what is called a boundary layer of gas attached to the metal surfaces. This boundary layer is only a few molecules thick, but acts as an insulator which keeps the burning gas temperature from direct contact with the metal engine parts. This contains the gas burn temperature and prevents imparting excessive heat directly into the metal engine parts, which could melt aluminum parts. Like all insulators, it leaks some combustion heat into the metal parts and the engine cooling system must absorb that heat. At TDC, portions of the piston crown get within about .040 inch from the cylinder head (squish region), and the close proximity of boundary layers quenches any attempt for gas in that region to burn. The .040 inch gap is hundreds of times thicker than the boundary layers, but the cooling effect quenches any gas trapped there. When that gas cannot burn, it reduces the chamber temperature which results in less heat available to cause detonation during the time from TDC to 16 degrees ATDC (after the squish time). This cooling effect is referred to as virtual octane because the cooler gas escaping the squish area as we leave TDC, steals heat from the burning gas, which reduces the chances of spontaneous combustion. This quenching effect results in a virtual octane increase. It has been found that the squish region has little effect if the piston to head squish clearance is 0.060 inch or greater. The optimum quench clearance is 0.040 inch.

clean BOTH the lower intake pads and the block rails then degrease with a rag damped with acetone,dimple both the block rails and lower manifold matching pads with a center punch several dozen times on each end and each surface, then degrease with the damp rag again , place a 1/4" thick bead on the lower intake surfaces (black RTV) then a 1/4" wide bead on the block rails , then carefully install the intake, the two beads will blend, let them dry inplace for at least 8hrs the little dimples add greatly to the holding ability of the RTV

SMOKEYS NOT AVAILABLE but he did take high speed film of what happends in clear plastic oil covers at high engine speeds an the oil level even at 7000rpm in an engine with a high volume oil pump only gets about 1/2"-3/4" deep (the valve covers don,t fill up provieded the drain back holes are clear)

458hp/460tq is the computers guess