grumpyvette

yeah , if youe cat is partly plugged and crumbling it can hurt performance big time, get a large screw driver and break up the core and clean it out, if the car runs much better you will of course need a new cat

take the magnets out and totally clean them EVERY TIME you drop the oil pan then REPLACE THEM,into the oil pan, you should not be running an engine without magnets in the oil pan because they do prevent a great deal of metalic dust fro getting into the oil flow and prevents that metalic dust from getting embeded in the bearings

most engines have thermostats that block coolant flow,untill the engine reachs the designed temp range, a good trick is to drill several 3/16" holes in the perimiter edge allowing a limited amount of coolant to flow at all times and makeing trapped air under the thermostat a non-issue Why Drill Holes in Your Thermostat? I guess the obvious reason is to keep your car cooler therefore controlling KR. However the holes only reduce overall engine temps by about 5 degrees so we have a much more important reason for this. While at the track you open the hood, maybe ice the charger and let the motor cool down between runs. This may bring your coolant temps down to very low levels, which is good however these cool temps may actually slow you down. With the coolant and engine cooled down there is no coolant circulating until the engine temps reach the temp of the Thermostat. This would normally be OK however when you're racing the combustion chambers heat up very quickly. So the coolant around the cylinders and heads might reach 250 degrees before the stat even begins to open. This is very bad and can cause high levels of KR in the back half of the ¼ mile. By drilling the holes in the thermostat you can eliminate this problem because you will always have a small amount of coolant flowing.

I know you already checked ALL YOUR CLEARANCES ARE CORRECT!RIGHT? READ THIS FIRST BREAK IN PROCEDURE 1.) Drive normally but not a continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. AVOID LUGGING!!! TRIPS AND TOWING are not recommended until after 1000 miles. NOTE: Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies. 2.) IMPORTANT! AFTER 500 TO A MAXIMUM OF 1000 MILES OF SERVICE, change oil and filter and readjust the valves, except hydraulic. We also require that valve adjustments be done again after a total of 6000 miles. We require a maximum of 3000 miles between oil changes and factory recommendation on valve adjustments thereafter. NOTE: Add oil at 1/2 quart intervals on small capacity engines. OIL AND WATER LEVELS ARE A DRIVER OR OWNER MAINTENANCE RESPONSIBILITY, THEY MUST BE KEPT FULL. We realize that this means extra effort on your part, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance. 3.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use. NOTE: In past years, it has been common practice to use non-detergent and straight weight oil during the "BREAK-IN" period because it was felt that the rings would seat quicker without the film strength additives. More recently, there has been a trend to high speed and high temperature engines, cam lobe and tappet loads also have increased to a point where it is important to use heavy duty oils which contain a EP (high pressure) additive right from the start. Rings will seat properly when moderate loads are applied as noted above in section one. 4.) Keep your engine in tune. Tune-up specifications should always be to the manufacturers recommended specifications. 5.) PLEASE! If you experience any trouble or even suspect a problem please contact us IMMEDIATELY! It is easier and cheaper to fix a little problem than a big one. IMPORTANT ITEMS TO LOOK FOR WHEN INSTALLING A REPLACEMENT ENGINE TO AVOID EARLY ENGINE FAILURE 1.) Determine why old engine failed. Check catalytic converter or computer controlled parts, check engine warning light codes, radiator, water pump, etc. Do not install replacement engine with defective components, this could cause premature failure. 2.) Compare rebuilt engine with old engine as to crankshaft flange, pilot hole and bearing, oil pan, timing cover, engine mounting provisions and cylinder head mounting holes. 3.) Prime the oil pump in any acceptable Industry Standard Method! This is very important. 4.) All related parts not furnished by us should be thoroughly cleaned. 5.) If original engine has blown and scattered pieces, such as piston particles, you Must thoroughly inspect intake manifold for foreign material to avoid destroying the new engine. 6.) Make sure that dipstick tube and dipstick are of proper length to register required amount of oil. 7.) Check motor mounts for oil soak and parting of rubber from metal. 8.) Radiator should be flow tested and thoroughly cleaned if necessary. 9.) Check radiator cap for application and operation. 10.) Replace thermostat to avoid possible failure. 11.) All hoses, radiator, heater, and by pass should be replaced if necessary. 12.) A heavy duty detergent oil is required. Use a good quality brand oil, Some Manufacturers require 5/30, others recommend 10/40 for 20 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and use 20/50w for higher temperatures and heavy duty use. 13.) Always replace oil filter cartridge and flush any cooler lines. And replace oil cooler if contaminated. 14.) Oil pressure and temperature sending units may need to be replaced because they have a tendency to leak oil and register improper after a reinstall. 15.) Always install new spark plugs of proper heat range and check to make sure the spark plug wires are in good condition. 16.) Check distributor, advance controls and distributor cap for cracks. 17.) Water pump should be checked for signs of leaking. 18.) Clutch fan should be checked for proper operation. 19.) Fan belts should be checked for cracks and other defects. 20.) Check fuel pump for oil leak at pivot pin and also for fuel leaks. 21.) Check heat riser valve for proper operation. 22.) Replace paper air filter or clean oil type. 23.) Check smog components and computer sensors. Replace defective or old parts. 24.) VERY IMPORTANT!!! Make sure radiator is full of coolant (at least 50% water and 50% antifreeze) and Engine Block is filled full before attempting to start engine. CAUTION: Air Locks can ruin a new engine. 25.) When filling radiator make sure it is filled to proper capacity and that there are no air locks, as this can cause cracking of cylinder block and heads. 26.) Start engine, check oil pressure, adjust ignition timing to manufacturers specifications and adjust carburetor after engine has warmed up fully. Also, at this time be sure to check for any water or oil leaks. 27.) Take the car for a road test. After road testing the vehicle recheck installation, oil and water levels, look for any leaks, recheck timing and adjust carburetor if necessary. Please refer to "BREAK IN PROCEDURE" sheet for further information. See Warranty Addendum #8 NOTE: After at least 1 hour running time and engine has cooled, retorque head and adjust valves to manufacturers specifications. On Required engines if you are not sure if this is required on your engine ASK! http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/005908.html ok first make sure the ignition timeing , coolent levels are correct, all the hoses are conected ETC and a good oil filter is installed, add a can of G.M. E.O.S. to the oil(G.M.part #1052367 ) ENGOILSUP EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication.) fill the engine with a good brand of MINERAL BASE OIL of about 10w-30 weight (VALVEOLINE, ETC. anything with a S/G or S/H rateing next prime the oil pump while turning the engine over BY HAND SLOWLY untill oil runs out of all the push rod/rocker arms (if it doesn,t find out WHY BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE) this is a good time to roughly adjust your valves if you have not yet done so. once everything checks outget the garden hose running if you might need it to cool the radiator and if you have one keep a fire extinguisher handy, check the float levels in the carb and fuel pressure is ok and fire it up with a timeing light on the motor, finish timeing it correctly and get it to at least 1500rpm-2000rpm and keep it at least that high for 15 minutes, if everything looks good take it for an around the block tour for an hour too 90 more minutes, bring it home, let it cool and change the oil filter(after 100 miles change the oil and oil filter again to mobile 1 synthetic in what ever weigth will keep 25lbs of hot oil pressure at idle, after you have changed to mobile 1 synthetic and broken in the rings and cam your ready to run the crap out of it at the 100 mile mark, by that time everthing is lapped in BTW I always stick four of these magnets in the corners of the oil pan sump , you will be amazed at how much metalic dust they pick out of the oil and keep from getting to your bearings,(either one works fine) http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet2.html http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet42.html synthetic oil has much greater film strength that it slows the lapping in of the lifters to cam lobes and rings to cylinder walls to a great extent, yes you can use synthetic oil to break in an engine but it will take longer and in some cases the rings don,t completely seal to the cylinders for about 500 miles while breaking in on mineral oil everythings lapped in by 100 miles or 3 hrs of running time. and yes constantly vary the engine speed durring break in but it must be in the 1500rpm-4000rpm window for proper oil flow/splash lubracation of the parts, btw this tool adds greatly to the oil flow to the cam lobes, http://www.compcams.com/catalog/335.html and read this http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.melling.com/highvol.html Im NOT recommending you rev your new engine to 4000rpm, I Am saying its ok to let a new engine get to 4000rpm MAX for brief periods OCCASIONALLY going from gear to gear shifting under light load as a max rpm level as you accelerate going thru the gears in the car during that first 3 hours or 100 miles and during the first hour of running time there is FAR MORE HEAT ON THE CONTACT POINTS AS THE RINGS AND LIFTERS LAP IN and those magnets I mentioned pick up lots of metalic dust, and that can get embeded into your bearings without those magnets. BASICALLY what your doing durring that first hour and to some extent the first hundred miles is letting all the high spots wear away and the metalic dust formed wash into the sump in the oil pan where its picked up by magnets if your smart or by the oil pump and hopefully trapped by the filter BEFORE IT GETS TO THE BEARINGS ETC.another reason they tell you to keep the engine rpms low durring breakin is to try to insure the oil filter bypass valve stays shut by keeping the oil pressure in the mid ranges to hopefully allow ALL the metallic dust to pass thru the filter,btw the main reason they tell you to keep the rpms at at least 1500rpm is because the cam is mostly lubracated by oil thrown from the spinning rods/crankshaft and below 1500rpm there is significantly less oil being thrown around in the lower block by the rotateing assembly and that the cam lobes on a flat tappet cam need to have that oil film on the lobes for the metal to lap in and work harden the mateing surfaces between the lifters and cam lobes. that tool I refered to causes high pressure oil to constantly spray on that lobe surface greatly increaseing the oil flow to the contact area and helping to prevent lobe failures, it also helpd spray extra oil on roller wheels on roller cams/lifters, look here at lifter #866 http://www.compcams.com/catalog/261.html notice the oil groove! that is there to do the same job!

it will depend on how you set up the rest of the engine heres some other choices http://www.procylinderheads.com/ http://www.dartheads.com/ http://www.airflowresearch.com http://www.brodix.com/ http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/sbc.html http://www.worldcastings.com/. http://www.canfieldheads.com/ http://www.trickflow.com/ http://www.indyheads.com/ http://nascarheads.com/chevy_heads.html I mostly use TRICKFLOW,DART,AFR but have used ALL of the others at times over the yearsbtw 383s tend to run better with heads in the 195cc-210cc size flowing at least 245cfm @.500 lift. ask lots of questions like the intake port gasket size ,if any special rocker arms or push rods are necessary. ETC.

Ive blown a radiator and hit 267 degrees before I could get it shut down with ALUMINUM heads WITH ZERO RESULTING DAMAGE! your unlikely to damage aluminum heads unles you get really dumb and try to add cold water to a overheated engine. if you start running over 250 degrees because you blow a hose, pull over and let the engine cool to air temp before adding fluid to the cooling system. engines normally run best at about 190-210 degrees so try to get your cooling system to stay in that range while racing, keep in mind a large oil pan volume helps a great deal in taking heat out of the engine

ID STRONGLY advise everyone ORDER a catalogs from these people http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/ http://www.competitionproducts.com/

the symptoms sure sound like lack of fuel, first check that you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, if not find out why not, some fords have a fuel pressure cut off switch that cuts the power to the fuel pump if the cars read ended (bumped)(look in the owners manual for the reset button in the trunks location and reset proceedures) then check that the throttle possition sensor is adjusted correctly, if you have fuel pressure a clogged fuel filter or air filter or clogged injector might be the problem or a loose injector connection to the wire harness or to some other sensor like the tps oh btw on several fords the plug into the computer control modual and ignition can come loose check that also

pparaska your correct but remember thats a 300%increase is at 4500rpm over the same engine with a milder cam at 1500rpm SPIIRIT If 'N' is a factor in this formula then why dosen't it appear as a function in the progression? the formula for hp is (torque x rpm /5252=hp) if you had 400ft lbs of tq at 1000rpm 1000 x 400/5252=76hp move that same 400ft lbs to 5000rpm 5000 x 400/5252=380hp

theres hundreds of choices, all can be made to work if they fit over the carbs with at least a couple inches over the carbs, post pictures of your first top three choices and well talk! these I like http://www.up22.com/scoopw1.htm http://www.up22.com/scoopw2.htm http://www.up22.com/scoopw3.htm http://www.kenlowe.com.au/raceglass1.htm http://www.usbodysource.com/new%20cover.htm hey your in luck they have a big sale going last time I checked this downdraft was $2999 and the horizontal weber set up was about $5500 look INGLESE CHEVROLET V8 SYSTEMS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part No. System Description Price IA1114H S/B, IDF, 44mm Carbs $2,995.00 IA1118H S/B, IDF, 48mm Carbs $3,395.00 IA1018H S/B, IDA, 48mm Carbs $4,495.00 IA1245H S/B, DCOE,45mm Carbs. "Moon" Crossram $4,450.00 Includes: 4 x 44 IDF Carbs Stainless steel braided Fuel Lines Adjustable linkage Intake Manifold 2 1/2 Stacks Comes Assembled $1995.95 http://www.injector.net/Weber/wildv8.asp this has got to be a huge hp improvement over a cfi setup .they normally have a 20hp advantage over a well set up 4 barrel carb at peak and more torque and throttle responce at all rpm ranges

let me add to that info above looked at in another way. lets look at the example Kevin Shasteen gave you above, lets assume (to keep things simple) that you can make 1 ft lb per effectively burn cubic inch of fuel air mix! now that would mean that at 1500rpm with a 350 displacement youll have 750 x 350 cubic inches burning (every other stroke is a power stroke remember) 350 ft lbs at 1500rpm or 99.96hp the formula for hp is (tq x rpm /5252=hp) with a cam that closes the intake valve at bdc. now look at this chart and this cam, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card the intake valve closes at about 77 degrees past bdc and according to the chart runs at a torque peak near 4500rpm. now look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf that means that you needed to delay closeing the intake valve untill 77 degrees past bdc to leave enought time to fill the cylinder but by doing so you have effectively lowered the VOLUME COMPRESSED BY THE PISTON to an effective stroke of about 2.4" or reduced the engines effective volume to 241cid but effectively raised the NUMBER of power strokes to 2250 or 241ft lbs x 4500/5252=206hp thats a 206% increase in hp! but theres other factors at work here! remember this diagram well at 4500 rpm if you have a tuned intake and well designed header scavageing the cylinders a effective cylinder filling boost in air pressure filling those cylinder due to ram tuning could effectively raise the pressure filling the cylinders from 14.7 at sea level by 10% or more which could very easily boost that 241 displacement to an EFFECTIVE displacement of 265 cid boosting that 206 potential hp to 227hp, or a a 227% increase in hp YEAH I KNOW YOUR THINKING IM NUTS! LOOK AT THIS DYNO! IVE REALLY SERIOUSLY UNDERSTATED MY CASE!......... INCREASES OF over 300% due to a combination of increased RPM,a cam change and improved cylinder scavaging are comon btw read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm

safety equipment INCLUDES blow proof bell houseing drive shaft loop fire extinguisher helmet with face shield/break proof glasses fire proof gloves/jacket safety harness all of which you can buy with careful swap meet shopping for $350-$500 and ALL of which can SAVE YOUR BUTT! and if you normally exceed 450hp/120mph/12 seconds or less ID HIGHLY RECOMMEND A ROLL CAGE and FULL FOUR WHEEL DISK BRAKES

let me explain what Im saying and why, the driveshaft safety loop is mandatory to be placed, in the car and where its placed . its way to late if you bust a drive shaft at 80mph while your passing someone on the interstate, the u-joint busts and you find yourself rolling over and over because the driveshaft pole vaulted your car into a sideways roll to say"CRAP I SHOULD HAVE INSTALLED THAT $350 DOLLARS WORTH OF SAFETY EQUIPMENT" the basic idea of a driveshaft safety loop is to keep the front end of the drive shaft from falling down in the case of a front drive shaft U-joint failure and jaming into the ground, pole vaulting the car and flipping it! if the rear U-joint fails the drive shaft normally makes a hell of a lot of noise beating the transmission tunnel, flailing around untill it works loose and slips out of the transmission, by the engine untill the driver turns the engine off,pushes in the clutch or having it falling out on the track! (trust me I know) but if the forward U-joint fails the rear end flails the driveshaft in a similar manor untill the car stops moveing, now ideally the loop completely incircles the drive shaft and holds it almost exactly in its normall alignment so that all you get is a bunch of noise and no damage to the car, placement should be carefully though out to limit the ability of the drive shaft from doing damage if it comes loose under power! http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LAK%2D18000&view=257#largerimage btw dont forget http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=87837&prmenbr=361 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LAK%2D15003

NO! look at the specs of the 119661 http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119661&B1=Display+Card they are 230/238 dur..538/.558 lift your cam http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119821&B1=Display+Card your cam with 1.6 rockers would be about 220/228dur. .520/.540 lift now it should give you a slight increase in both hp and tq ABOVE 5000rpm but not what a cam change would potentially give you, but it will get you close to the next larger crane cam, specs, the 119831 so you might want to try it but only if your present combo lacks power above 5000rpm and has too much wheel spinning torque at just off idle with your cam now. http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119831&B1=Display+Card

it depends on the cams ramp rates and total durration and lift, it can be as much as 7-8 degrees of effective durration or as little as 3-5 degrees, from what Ive seen, keep in mind that 1.6 ratio rockers tend to work much better on mild cams and lower lifts because the total flow change is greater and the stress levels on the valve train is relatively low. once you get over about .550 lift and about 235 dur.@.050 lift and 5000rpm the resulting improvement in flow tends to be less than the resulting stress on the valve train compared to just getting the correct cam with a slight durration and lift increase that is better designed to run above 5000rpm due to the more controlled rate of lifter acceleration which can in a cam orriginally designed to run 1.5 ratio rockers get to valve float rpm. look what your trying to do,... what 1.6 rockers are is a nice tuneing aid that allows tweaking the cam timing, they are in no way a valid replacement for the correctly matched cam and 1.5 ratio rockers but they ARE an easy way to get a few cfm of extra airflow in the ports IF the ports potentially flow better than the cam your useing allows. where I see the best results is in nearly stuck engines where the cam severly restricts airflow at the higher rpms, Ive even seen LOSSES in hp in engine with fairly hot roller cams when 1.6 ratio rockers are added. also sometimes only adding the 1.6 ratio rockers to the intake or exhaust can sometimes gain more than adding the rockers to both when I was running a crane #114142 cam they helped , when I swapped to a 119661 roller cam they added zero hp over 1.5 ratio rockers in my 383 here look this over but keep in mind PONTIACs have restricted exhaust ports http://www.lmengines.com/rocker_arm_changes.htm

http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf

http://www.thirdgen.org/ http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/ubbthreads.php http://www.crossedflags.com/community/viewforum.php?f=4

SPIIRIT you seem to have the basic idea BUT... the exhaust flowing away from the cylinder causes a negative cylinder pressure the incomeing charge tries to fill theres nothing pushing except the standard 14.7psi of sea level outside air pressure trying to fill the cylinders to normal air pressure untill a ram tune rpm is reached and even then it rarely exceeds 2 psi during the most efficient peak rpm range where volumetric efficiency peaks (about 300-700rpm) I was asked about a previous post,my example of how do headers work? what I think your refering to was when I was trying to explain how headers help pull the exhaust out of the cylinders by useing the energy from the previously fired cylinder mass of exhaust rapidly moveing away from the exhaust valve causeing a negitive pressure at the exhaust valve that helps scavage the cylinder. what I said was you can demonstrate that negative presure caused by a rapidly moveing mass by getting a 2.5"x5' long section of pvc pipe hold it horizontally and insert a full coke can with some tape wrapped around it so that it just slides easily into one end of the 5' long pvc pipe, now put your hand over the end of the pipe you just installed the full coke can into and rapidly drop the other end strait down, as the coke can slides too the floor you will feel the negitive pressure on you hand caused by the falling mass. now a cylinders volume of exhaust moveing through a primary header tube works in much the same way, while it weights much less than the coke can its moveing far faster and carries enought energy that the same negitive pressure is formed at the exhaust valve by the slug of exhaust gas traveling in the header primary tube, [color:"blue"] now ideally if the header primary tube is long enought and of the correct dia. to still contain the mass of exhaust gas at the rpm that matches the cam timeing and cylinder volume,a peak of that negative pressure will be forming behind the exhaust valve as it opens during the rpm range where the engine spends the majority of its time, now temp. cylinder volume, compression ratios,cam timeing and interior pipe dia. all effect the rpm range that this effect peaks at effiency wise but in most v-8 engines a dia equal too the exhaust port and about 32"-39" will put that negative pressure wave caused by the previous fired cylinder at the exhaust port in the 4000-6000rpm range, look at this chart, http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html now figure that exhaust is 1300f or 977k so thats about 25" at 6000rpm and about 39" at 4000rpm to get that pressure wave to work for you scavageing the cylinder(helping to pull exhaust out and the new intake charge into the cylinder.)hers stuff to read, http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles/Theory/theory.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page5/page5f.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page5/page5f.html BTW it should be obvious why shorty headers don,t make as much power,....the primary tubes being much shorter are also much less effective at controling that negative pressure wave timeing and strength over anywhere near the same rpm range. read this http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html keep in mind the same thing is happening on the intake side of the engine in that properly designed intake ports use the inertia of the coluum of air moveing into the intake/port/cylinder to INERTIALLY RAM the the coluum of air into the cylinders durring some rpm ranges, if the two effects can be matched to the correct cam timeing the cylinders can be packed with more that 100% of the air normally filling the cylinders voluum/space at outside air pressure[/color] there bye allowing the engine to build exceptional torque by burning greater amounts of fuel/air mix for its size at that rpm range http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html [/url] some good general info here look closely at the duration used for each MATCHING rpm range. ALSO KEEP IN MIND THE DCR AND OVERLAP MUST MATCHlook here these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap but all engines will need the correct matching dcr for those overlap figures to correctly scavage the cylinders in the rpm ranges that apply to each engines use range.[/b] http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html , don,t forget that the longer your rods are (closer to the ideal 2:1 rod to stroke ratio) the wider the lsa should be and the longer the stroke the wider the lda (lobe displacement angle) should be[/b]http://www.compcams.com/Base/Images/Articles/CC_CC0101-001-2.jpg"[/img] http://www.compcams.com/Base/Images/Articles/CC_CC0101-001-2.jpg if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/index.html http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html

https://www.spoperformanceparts.com/store/dbimagecache/667.gif heres my favorites

IF YOUR POSITIVE your not getting into minimal valve float (which sounds likely) and yout fuel pressure is stead at about 6lbs or better during the whole 1/4 mile pass heres what Id try add a 1" -2" thick 4 hole carb spacer retard the cam 6 degrees retard the ignition timing about 1-2 degrees in top gear add a tappered merge collector with about 15"-20" long extension http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeCollectors/mergecollectors.html drop back to a 4.88 rear gear

Im sorry if you think Im KNOCKING what you did, WHILE I do see why you might think that way, Im really not ,IM JUST TRYING TO POINT OUT I DID THE SAME MODS,SPENT LOTS OF TIME AND MONEY TESTING, Im just pointing out that after doing all those mods on my own corvette , that I found that they were a boost over the stock TPI the same as you did find! BUT the boost was not all that impressive compared to the boost I got with a fully ported base and SLP runners ported full length and siamese ported 3" into the upper runners, as that mod retains the ram tuneing effect. I also am pointing out that after years of working with the TPI restrictions and porting several engines intake system,trying the super ram, and mini-ram and stealth ram , I found the stealth ram to be the best of the bunch by a WIDE margine, (BUT YOUR CORRECT IN STOCK FORM IT WON,T FIT UNDER A 1985-1996 corvette hoodline) SO I DID SOMETHING ABOUT IT now Im sure youll take this as Im trying to sell something and thats not totally incorrect BUT THATS NOT THE MAIN REASON IM POSTING THIS,THE MAIN REASON IM POSTING IS TO LET YOU GUYS SKIP YEARS OF TESTING AND GET A TPI THAT WILL FIT UNDER A 1985-1996 corvette hood(like the STOCK TPI INTAKE) THAT DOES POTENTIALLY PRODUCE LARGE HP GAINS DUE TO GREATLY REDUCED AIRFLOW RESTRICTION , RETAINS THE RAM TUNEING, AND REQUIRES LESS WORK,WITHOUT WASTING TIME AND MONEY, after all this is not even a corvette forum and 99% of you guys will opt for a stock stealth ram anyway <b> HERES THE STANDARD HOLLEY® STEALTH RAM AT 10" PLUS IN HEIGHT ITS ABOUT 1/2" TO TALL TO FIT UNDER THE STOCK C-4 HOOD</b> <b>LOTS OF TESTING SHOWS THAT POWDER COATING HELPS PREVENT CORROSION, and GREASY FINGER PRINTS UNLIKE BARE ALUMINUM, THIS IS A QUALITY PIECE</b> (1) Designed to fit under the 1984-1996-corvette hood line, (2) Powder coated for corrosion protection and no greasy finger prints (3) This custom plenum is designed to give a significant boost to your TPI ENGINES ability to breath efficiently at higher rpm ranges (4) Has a huge potential horsepower advantage due to a significant increase in air flow over even a ported Chevy tuned port injection intake manifold thus increasing the engines effective rpm range (5) Mounts to a HOLLEY® STEALTH RAM ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION BASE, and uses the HOLLEY® fuel rails and either Chevy or aftermarket throttle body and injectors (6) Adds a true custom fabricated high dollar race engine look and air flow potential to your engine (7) Solid welded construction with no seams to leak, easily works with turbo or Naturally aspirated or nitrous, while each engine combo will vary, this flows enough air to support well over 500hp <b>heres the plenum just sitting on top of the HOLLEY® base(the mounting bolts are just screwed in part way AT ONLY 9" TALL IT FITS AND HAS THE POTENTIAL AIRFLOW TO BUILD AN ENGINE FAR OUT POWERING A STANDARD TPI</b> (1) The combo of a HOLLEY® STEALTH RAM ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION BASE, not only adds a significant potential horsepower gain due to its greater airflow, it makes both maintenance of the injectors and the removal of the intake manifold far faster and easier,(a big advantage on a racing engine based on the Chevy TPI style ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM ) unlike the stock Chevy TPI the custom stealth ram and plenum can be removed with far less disassembly time, fewer parts and has greater access to those parts plus a far straighter and less restricted path for that air flow into the cylinders (2) Now you can add the custom PLENUM to the HOLLEY® and fit it under the stock 1985-92 L-98 corvette hoods (3) Comes with step by step mounting instructions, bolts, and performance helpful hints this is a custom welded plenum, similar to the ones the pros pay $2500 and up for from the custom builders. now the HOLLEY® STEALTH RAM PLENUM flows far better than the stock TPI but IT WON,T FIT UNDER THE STOCK HOOD LINE ON A C-4 CORVETTE, there were a few ways I found to improve things in the tight C-4 engine compartment (1)the plemum is slightly longer and much lower than the HOLLEY CAST PLENUM (2)THE THROTTLE BODY IS ANGLED SLIGHTLY DOWNWARD FOR BETTER HOOD CLEARANCE (3)THE THROTTLE BORES ARE LARGER THAN A STOCK TPI FOR MUCH BETTER AIR FLOW. (4)AIR IN A STOCK TPI MUST CHANGE DIRECTIONS OVER 270 degrees AFTER IT PASSES THROUGHT THE THROTTLE BODY, THIS CUSTOM PLENUM AND STEALTH RAM BASE REDUCES THE DIRECTIONAL CHANGES TO ABOUT 1/3 OF THAT OR ABOUT 100 DEGREES. (5)THE STOCK TPI FLOWS ABOUT 200cfm LIMITING POTENTIAL AIR FLOW AND THE ENGINES EFFECTIVE RPM RANGE, THE COMBO OF THE HOLLEY STEALTHRAM BASE AND CUSTOM PLENUM ALLOWS A MAJOR INCREASE IN EFFECTIVE RPM RANGE (RESULTS VARY WITH YOUR COMBO OF COURSE) (6)THE INTERIOR SUPPORT TUBES FOR THE MOUNTING BOLTS are MUCH THINNER (7)the REAR OF THE PLENUM IS SLIGHTLY ANGLED TO HELP REDUCE INTERIOR TURBULANCE (8)THE INTERIOR SURFACES ARE SMOOTHER (9)THE FITTINGs FOR THE SENSORS ARE MOVED TO AREAS OF NON-CRITICAL AIRFLOW AND SEATED SLIGHTLY FURTHER OUT TO REDUCE TURBULANCE IN THE PLENUM INTERIOR (10)THERES MUCH MORE ROOM FOR WORKING ON THE DISTRIBUTOR AS THERES NO FITTINGs MOUNTED ON THAT TIGHT REAR SURFACE (11)THEREs NO UPPER DECORATIVE RIBS TO INCREASE THE PLENUMS SURFACE AREA,(ALLOWING IT TO MORE QUICKLY ABSORB ENGINE COMPARTMENT HEAT LIKE THE STANDARD PLENUM) or to collect dirt (12)THE PLENUM IS POWDER COATED TO PREVENT CORROSION AND FINGER PRINTS AND MAKE CLEANING EASIER (13)PROVISIONS HAVE BEEN MADE FOR A FUTURE KIT TO FIT THE 9TH COLD START INJECTOR WANT a custom plenum ? $249.95 + $20 S&H call 1-561-798-9067 for details on ordering and this is just a service to fellow hotrodders, I contracted for several dozen to be made and at that price Im just clearing about $20 on each of them, if they sell , Ill make more, and maybe make a profit, but as it is Ive spent 7 months getting it correct with far less than $500 in potential profit if I sell ever one I had built!

heres an interesting dyno comparing the TYPE OF MODS YOU DID, to the STEALTH RAMS LONGER AND BETTER DESIGNED INTAKE SYSTEM NOTICE THE 66HP GAIN OVER AND ABOVE WHAT YOU GOT WITH THE SIAMESE INTAKE MODS http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html

if your oil pressure is less than 10 psi per thousand rpm you have a problem that MUST BE FOUND AND FIXED, PRESSURE IS THE MEASURE OF RESISTANCE TO THE OILS ABILITY TO FLOW IF YOUR OIL PRESSURE is at only 5LBs at IDLE your clearances someplace in your engine must have opened up reducing the restriction to oil flow if you continue to run the engine at that low level of oil pressure it becomes only a matter of time before some part in your engine is starved for oil that cools and forms a barrier between the moving metal parts. now if you pull the engine down and find that reason the pressure dropped BEFORE the engine fails you may only need to replace the deffective parts MOST LIKELY THE ROD, CAM OR MAIN BEARINGS, but don,t overlook the oil gallery plugs and lifter bores as possiable sources of a leak BTW one of the most common reasons for a sudden drop in oil pressure is due to a rocker or push rod failing allowing the cam lobe to flip a lifter out of its lifter bore, a single lifter thrown out of its bore will have the effect of dropping your oil pressure drastically, if its a new rebuilt engine you might have forgotten these plugs like greimann poined out in the other post

READ THIS http://www.fammllc.com/htmlpub/PDF%20Files/LUBE_Bulletin12.pdf http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/auto_technology/2002/8/motor_oil/print.phtml BTW as a general rule youll want to run the thinnest weight oil that will maintain about 20 lbs of oil pressure in a hot (200f)engine at idle, remember oil flow over the bearings COOLS by ABSORBING HEAT and carrying it into the oil pan, oil cooler or letting the cooler block surfaces absorb the heat for the cooling system to remove, to cool the bearings and lifter contact points ETC. the greater the voluum of oil flowing over the bearings the more heat can be carried away and the more constant the surface temp. can be. and be fore someone jumps in with that old myth that oil flowing over the surfaces to fast will fail to pick up the heat from the bearings... let me point out this chart http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html heres other info, http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/oil.htm http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN%2023.html http://www.cryoeng.com/images/EngineDurabilitySecrets.htm http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/engine2t.htm BTW on the high voluum pump versus the standard pump, what Im saying is basically this if you push the oil at a low enough pressure and voluum accross the bearing surfaces the limited , stock oil voluum ,compared to the higher , voluum pumped by the aftermarket pumps, passing over the surface will ,pick up a higher heat transfer per oil voluum in contact with the bearing surfaces due to its longer contact time. that poses three minor potential problems that might be major potential problem depending on the temp. range and oil quality (mineral versus synthetic) (1)as the oil voluum passing over the bearing surface heats up it can absorb a lower percentage of the bearings heat (2)as oil heats up it breaks down and by the time mineral base oils hit 260 degrees they have lost significant luberacation (3)oil picks up and carries micro trash (carbon,acids, metalic dust,etc.) that can embed in the bearing surfaces, a slightly higher pressure and voluum flowing accross the bearing surfaces TENDs to keep them cleaner because the FILTERED oil PUSHED OVER THE BEARING SURFACES tends to be run through the FILTER more often so if your pushing 20% more oil at 10% greater pressure accross the bearings the oil will tend heat slower,have a greater time in the cooling off cycle and stabilize at a lower total heat absorbsion level. what most of the guys that tell you a stock pump is all youll ever need FORGET to TELL you is that the high voluum pumps pump oil to the bearings faster at startup, helping to prevent wear, pump ONLY what the engines CLEARANCES ALLOW, have a more constant pressure level, and they also don,t seem to understand that the hydrolic lifters in most engines have internal valves that limit the oil flow voluum, in almost every case where someome says the valve covers fill up at high RPMs, your talking to someone whos just repeating something they heard, or someone whos FAILED tO CORRECTLY PREP THE BLOCK AND/OR USE A WINDAGE SCREEN not someone thats actually tested the engine to see if what they are talking about is true read this part of that big post above now what does quite frequently happen is that the guys installing a high volume oil pump just swap out the standard pump, reinstall the stock or simular pick-up and bolt on the pan with the pick-up in the stock possition on the oil pump. the stock pick-up is mounted about 3/8" off the pan bottom,the high volume pump is normally equiped with impeller gears about .3 inches longer than stock, the high volume pump body is that much lower in the pan, resultting in the pick-up being only about 1/8" from the pan bottom. the result is that on a normal chevy oil pump pick-up this leave a space of about 1/8" x 2.5" for oil to flow into the pump. at low rpms this works but as the rpms climb the pick-up that can,t get any oil to pump cavitates as it spins and fails to pump oil, result oil pressure drops untill rpms are lowered no matter how much oil is over the pick-up............ valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that BTW WHILE WE ARE TALKING ABOUT OIL SYSTEMS, just some info, see these remote adapters, a fairly comon reason people install high voluum pumps is to use these remote adapters well a fairly comon way to kill an engine is to INCORRECTLY install one of these remote filter adapter kits, look at the top picture and keep in mind that those two connecting hoses COULD be flipped as to what end(in/out ) on the remote filters gets hooked to the bypass adapter (IN/OUT) ports, hook it up correctly and everything works just fine! but swap the two hoses on only one end and YOUR OIL PUMP tries to push OIL PAST the ANTI-DRAINBACK VALVES on the oil filters,(and most of the time is marginally successfull in that a trickle of oil does get to the bearings and rocker arms at idle) now at idle youll still get good oil pressure (about 15 lbs) but rev the engine and the highly restricted oil flow pressure goes up very slowly but the oil VOLUUM getting into the block is so low youll spin a bearing in about the first 20 minutes ( [color:"red"] and 99% of the time the guy that does this blames the guy who built his engine for putting it togeather WRONG when in fact the engine could have been PERFECT but with no oil reaching the bearings under load the engine is history within at best about an hours running time! [/color]