grumpyvette

thanks! good link!

depends on application, most weld some bolt into place

the (choke) is used to temporarily richen the f/a ratio, making the engine easier to start on cold conditions, restricting the flow rates , with the choke, typically increases the vacuum signal the venturies see and richens the effective f/a mixture ratio, as it tends to draw more fuel. if your running better with the choke partly closed richening the jets usually tends to solve that. now obviously the type of jetting and the float settings, adding differant boosters, discharge nozzels,fuel pressure levels, accellerator pump settings,the type of carb, engine size, cam timing or other factors might come into this in some applications http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/choke.htm "Carburetor Choke Operation A choke is used in conjunction with a carburetor. It is a valve that opens and closes and used to restrict air flow. The restriction enriches the fuel/air mixture to aid in the initial startup of the vehicle. The choke creates a stronger vacuum to pull more fuel from the jets and into the air/fuel mixture. When the engine warms up the choke slowly releases and stays in the wide open position." http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0508_carburetor_showdown/index.html IVE ("wasted" A ton OF CASH GAINING A GREAT DEAL OF EXPERIANCE) I guess I would not know 1/100th of what I know without having done that though!:rofl:

to realistically expect 400hp youll be better off starting with the 383 vs the 350, while both engines can do it, the extra displacement and ease of building compression with your current heads, (or better ones) makes the 383 the better choice provided its in decent mechanical condition, and youll surely need a cam upgrade, now you didn,t post specs on the 383 short block and cpr but your best off begining the combo with about a 10:1 cpr if you expect to realistically reach 400hp. just keep in mind anything your can do with a 350 can usually be done more effectively with a 383, and a flat tappet solid lifter cam in the 240-245 durration and .500-.530 lift range, matched to a 10;1-11;1 cpr and a decent intake and heads is generally required to be sure youll get that 400 hp exceeded easily on a budget build, something thats not going to give great gas mileage or be particularly traffic friendly but it will kick butt over about 3500rpm-6500rpm something like this crower with the 1.6:1 ratio rockers in that 383 should get you there! http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00321&x=10&y=5 brouse thru these http://rustpuppy.org/chp/ http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139908 this should help, if not make a set out of plex-glass,MEASURE CAREFULLY, drill , THEM WHERE THEY NEED BOLTS, glue them up, after carefully measuring what you want and take the proto-type to a local welder shop to duplicate in 1/4" -3/8"steel

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/405_Engine-Motor-Mounts-Conversion-Kits.html http://www.tperformance.com/street_rod_store/engine/universal_crossmember_motor_mounts/ http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/motor.htm http://www.sachserodshop.com/pdf/5.pdf http://www.tdperformance.com/categories/?id=3102 http://www.campbellenterprises.com/motorplates.htm http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/enginemounts.html do I know where to get an engine too trans adapter? I just might, but WHICH transmission exactly are we talking about? i know of lots of adapter bell housing manufacturers, theres even blank bell housings available for custom machineing http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm http://www.advanceadapters.com/ http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/101879-mcleod-industries.html http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/100778-trans-dapt-performance.html http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/100771-tci-automotive.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/vw_por.htm#8CYL http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/engineadapters.html http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/engineadapters.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/other.htm http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5325 http://www.pacificcustoms.com/1ENGADP.html http://www.offyparts.com/index.php/cPath/77

yeah! my very low 10s second corvette was impressive especially back in the 1970s but its was a P.I.T.A. to drive with a full roll cage, a 4 link dana 60, tubed rear, and 700 plus hp, the crower injectors sticking thru the hood seemed like they screamed, ("DROP CRAP IN HERE" to MORONS) and the cops tended to follow me almost everyplace I had far more fun with a `1965 tempest/GTO clone with a BBC engine in it, even thou it was not nearly as fast! my first real fast car, was a 1965 GTO that I purchased dirt cheap in 1970 with a blown engine, but a good 4 speed for $900 ,and a decent rear (I THOUGHT) I had a plan and friends, it soon had a 1969 corvette 427 tri power engine from a wrecked vette, that engine didn,t last long, (bad bearings) I replaced it with what at the time was a custom deal, a 4.25" stroker crank and 6.385 rods and .60 over 13.7:1 cpr pistons, a ZL1 cam with solid lifters and chevelle headers added, remember this is 1970 and SUNOCO 260 gas cost about 40-50 cents a gallon, the rear differential went out, and I got a dana 60 from a wrecked hemi challanger to which I had 4.88:1 rear gears added, and had the correct suspension brackets and drive shaft fabricated, the car destroyed street tires and ran high 11s which was screaming fast for the time (especially for a guy who barely knew how to tune it at the time.) I had almost every dime I made, or could borrow or do odd jobs for parts for, go into the car and I was getting sweet discounts at the time because I did work at a repair shop, at the time part time at nights while I was also working at southern bell, tel. I painted the engine PONTIAC BLUE and had the pontiac tripower decals on the chrome valve covers and corvette air cleaner assembly,and 421 decals on the fenders...I was amazed at the number of people who believed it was a 421 poncho! I got STUIPID and sold the car (without the engine that I kept)when I got a sweet deal on a 1968 corvette, with a blown up engine, the goats engine was evenually installed in the vette......after a few others ,it was faster but it was a source of constant problems and a bottomless money pit this car looks vaugely similar

and several other sites, also, SO! (thats hardly new info) I don,t mind helping out guys that have fast cars!

we all seem to be on a constant quest to make our cars faster, now having been this route over and over for fourty plus years and many cars, dozens of engines ETC.and having spent a small fortune on cars and engines over the years it EVENTUALLY sinks in that YOULL NEVER have the fastest car around and you only get to ENJOY your car when its running correctly. So, whats a realistic goal, whats IMPRESSIVE to you? and what will make YOU happy? now I sat down and spent some time thinking this thru, thinking about what it takes, to have a good car, and for ME its not all about speed or E.T., Ive owned a very low 10 second corvette, Ive had several 11 second cars, but the cars Ive enjoyed the most were the ones I got to drive on the street with both performance and FEW PROBLEMS,CARS that while faster than average, were also cars that appeared to be nearly stock, and didn,t attract a good bit of attention, its just a P.I.T.A. to drive a car when your constantly needing to think about keeping the plugs from fouling or the local cops hearing it running,or one thats about to get stolen if you park it,without constant supervision,ETC. and when the local track requires a certifed roll cage, trans blanket,blow proof bell housings, and battery disconnects, ETC. and you can,t drive to the track, it fast becomes a P.I.T.A. most of the cars Ive really enjoyed driving were big block cars that would run in the low 12s or high 11 second range on street tires, they could be driven on trips to the store, or on vacation,, DEPENDABILITY was a HUGE PLUS, what made them so great was that they were both dependable and faster than ALMOST all the cars they got to play with on the street,you could EMBARRASS the local street screach ricers and mustang crowd, and there was little worry about breakage or problems, and you could park them without needing to watch them every second. I just thought ID point that out for the newer guys here! don,t get so worried about running fast! build your car so you can ENJOY it and DRIVE IT. having 600-700 hp is nice, but nearly useless if you can,t go anywhere with the car............think it thru......you may really want 400-500 hp and a dependable car rather than a 600hp-900hp garage queen! having a larger displacement engine generally means you can run with the engine slightly out of perfect tune and still have impressive performance, as in most things a compromise needs to be struck, but having a car you can enjoy on the street beats having a toy you can rarely get to drive, and only at the track, in most cases. Ive worked on hundreds of cars over the years and the trend seems to be that a skilled driver in a good ,well thought thru combo can have a relieable car in the high 11 second range,to the low 12s, but once you get into a much faster car the problems opperating it on the street muiltiply to the point where you don,t enjoy driving it and spend an enormus amount of time and money just maintaining it. and a guy who knows how to tune/adjust,a large displacement big block or car with a power assist like a turbo, nitrous,or in some cases a supercharger makes the goal far easier because your engines not putting all its potential power out all the time at a given rpm range. now Im certainly not saying you can,t build a good 9-10 second combo, but its going to take a good deal of thought and an enormus amount of money if you want it relieable, and your driving & mechanical skills better be good:D the one factor I didn,t touch on was power to weight ratio while its very unlikely you can do it starting with a nearly stock corvette due to the weight, the LIGHTER the WEIGHT the easier it is to ACCELLERATE AND SLOW a car and the LESS STRESS the suspension and drive train will be under, so there ARE OPTIONS if you want a fast street car, but they may NOT be a corvette, there are some kit cars, t-buckets, etc. that can be built that weight easily a full 1000-1500 lbs less than a stock corvette, that will allow a 500hp engine to produce astounding performance. http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/

just as a point of interest, its not all that difficult to fabricate an adjustable belt tensioner and a coaster wheel bracket for serpintine belt drives, or to get one from a salvage yard that can be modified to fit and work correcly

post a couple detailed pictures of your spark plug condition and PLEASE POST SOME ENGINE DATA,like, the intake/carb or injection system your useing, IT helps a bit to have some CLUE what IM working with??? Im going to assume its a EFI untill you say differant have you adjusted the IAC and TPS and verified all the injectors are working correctly and the maf,mat,and coolant sensors are functioning correctly and theres no vacuum leaks?

some of you gentelmen can obviously weld better than I can much of the time as far as appearance goes!

thats expected and normal if your not running both a large capacity baffled oil pan AND a cooler with an electric powered fan, as it takes time for a non-fan equiped or small cooler to disapate the oils heat, I used to run thios dual cooler http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D13318&N=700+400006+115&autoview=sku but I found this transmission cooler alone was better http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D12318&N=700+115&autoview=sku as the oil temp was not a problem, but the trans temp was!

your correct! a 3/8" inside line size is marginal too useless depending on what percentage of the oil is routed thru the coolers or remote filters, a 1/2" inside dia, line would be in my opinion the minimum that should be considered. my trans cooler uses a 3/8" line , my oil cooler used to run a 1/2" but I found that the oil cooler was not necessary once I installed the trans cooler and 10 qt baffled oil pan on the car

the standard high voluum oil pumps for the chevy v8 easily handle the requirements these are the correct pumps to use on a sbc high hp build in many cases http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D18770&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MEL%2D10555&view=1&N=700+150+

theres several great/well proven pontiac engine combos tell me what youve got and Ill be glad to assist you in the planing stages and parts sellection, just be aware the connecting rods, intakes and heads almost always need to be upgraded for major hp improvements

oil pressure, gauges are usually connected to the engine block, generally to the access port over the oil filter or near the distributor base, depending on the application Id suggest a new gauge and sending unit, if you don,t know the condition of the old stock parts, it generally requires a sending unit, and a connecting wire that connects the gauge to that sending unit, but naturally the pair must be a matched set a few oil pressure gauges use two wire connections, many just a sensor and a single connection, most need a MATCHED pressure sending unit and a gauge http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM-2241 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM%2D5727&view=64&N=700+ theres a port for the sensor near the distrib and you could also install it near the oil filter in a few blocks normally a 1/8" pipe thread theres also mechanical gauges available that require a tube for oil to reach the gauge, but they tend to be a P.I.T.A. and subject to leaks

lots of guys add oil coolers and or dual remote mount oil filters to add voluum and give the oil more time to cool before its pumped back into hot engine parts, IF and when you do get the filter mount adapter do some serious thinking about both access, heat and where the oils likely to spill as the filters swapped out, one of my less intelligent friends , mounted his with the filters facing strait up rather than hanging down...easy access, never thinking thru the obvious flaw that spinning off a hot and full oil filter full of old oil results in it emptying all over the place! http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD%2D1222&N=700+115&autoview=sku [color:red] also keep in mind the designed dirrection of oil flow,some adapters and some the filters have anti drainback valves that will starve the engine of oil flow if you get stupid & sloppy and get the lines reversed, they still flow SOME oil but not hardly enought to prevent bearing damage if the lines are reversed, check BOTH the block adapter and filter mount adapter, ID suggest a 1/2" inside dia. as a minimum hose size to and from the cooler or filters[/color]

your link doesn,t work for me, but thats not critical at all, if you ask the supplier in most cases they will know if the hose, lines they supply are compatable with current fuel, and at what pressures,but keep in mind current fuels have a bit of alcohol in many of the blends and hose that handles gas may not handle an alcohol blend /gas fuel long term...I see guys experiance leaks from degraded rubber/synthetic fuel lines that held up fine with just gas, far more frequently with todays fuel lines than in the past

http://gallery.barrymorrison.com/albums/userpics/10001/SHP_Brochure-1v2a.pdf http://www.dartshp.com/shpassemblies.html http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1029740/10002/-1/10719 AT $1456 there not CHEAP but they a certainly a BARGIN compared to putting $1000 in machine work into a 35 plus year old chevy block thats noware near as stong and very likely to be rusted internally and one that might have cracks and at $1000 less than thier full race block its a deal for a street/strip engine combo http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1064093/10002/-1/10719 whats the differance? its got a bit less machine work, its not quite as thick and its got less nickle in the casting, and theres less options "from CNC BLOCKS New Dart Shp Block (pics) Finally got one of the new SHP block in from Dart, So far I have measured the lifter bores and they measure .8443 no taper, The center main cap came with no washer under the head of the bolt. I disassembled the mains caps cleaned caps and hardware and relubed the washers and the bolts with CMD-3 and retorqued and the rear main cap was 2.6407 the 3 center caps were 2.641 and front cap is 2.6408 as this will have to be addressed with a line hone. I noticed the freeze plug holes on the sides of the blocks are chamfered and the freeze plug holes in the front and rear and cam plug are not chamfered. It does look like the cam tunnel can be machined for BBC and 50MM cam tunnel with no issues. "

NO!, IVE met bill jenkins but thats not me! "GRUMPYVETTE", is a contraction, or NICKNAME, based on my wife always bitching about my attitude over the years, if Im under the corvette working and she calls me to do some darn silly thing like answer the phone while Im under the car, as in (WHY ARE YOU SO DAMN GRUMPY EVERY TIME YOU HAVE TO GET OUT FROM UNDER THE HOOD OR OUT FROM UNDER THE CAR (CORVETTEs) are what I usually work on)shes told more than one person over the years ("OLD GRUMPYVETTES UNDER THE CAR,ILL HAVE HIM CALL YOU WHEN HE GETS OUT OF THE SHOP!")

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ read thru this and pay attention to all the sub link info

most of the under hood gauges screw dirrectly into fuel rails or fuel line fittings and read dirrect pressure, they are used for tunning and trouble shooting, dirrect pressure while accurate does pose safety issues inside the cars cab so they use remote electric sensors and wiring to in cab dash gauges for safety reasons, (you don,t want fuel leaks inside the cars cab, especially durring a traffic accident, so get the remote dash gauges if its in the cab) you should own a DEALER SHOP MANUAL for your car,that will provide the ideal fuel pressure info, but generally youll want about 4.5-5.5 psi feed on carbs and about 40 psi on chevy tpi or lT1 injection systems read this first http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp Ive had 750hp cars with a single 1/2" inside dia fuel line loop from tank sump too pump too regulator and back as a return line that worked just fine BTW 1/2" inside dia. fuel line measures about 5/8"-3/4" outside, I buy mine from the local hydrolic supply house, SPECIFICALLY ask for HIGH TEMP,MID PRESSURE FUEL LINE with the metalic braided shield, 250-300F and 150PSI MINIMUM rated, measure VERY CAREFULLY then have them install the AN fittings with thier hydrolic press thats designed to do the job correctly, and don,t get it near, or install it near hot engine or exhaust parts ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS PUSH FUEL FAR MORE EFFICIENTLY THAN THEY PULL FUEL, so place the pump low and close to the fuel tank, but inside the frame for impact protection in accidents looks like this.... http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SAE_100R5_General_Purpose_Truck_Hose_p/r5-hose.htm BTW THEY ALSO MAKE A SIMILAR FUEL LINE WITH STAINLESS BRAID on the outside http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_752578_-1_10019 look thru this link I provided http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp and just because youve installed a bigger dia. line and a better pump thats not the end of the deal, you can still have problems if the fittings and routing are less than ideal or the filters restrictive, the fitting most guys use cause a problem because the passages thru those fittings are to small and restrict flow ,that may or may not be the souce of your problem, you must install a return style fuel pressure regulator and a return line or the fuel flow rates won,t cool the electric fuel pump,but ID point out that fittings and routeing effect results, most guys don,t understand that the return line is designed too have and supposed too have nearly zero resistance too flow back to the tank, the factory line is marginal,and restrictive at best. and of to small a dia. on even the stock engine in my opinion, a 1/2" feed and a 3/8" minimum,or better yet a 1/2" return line would be a far more realistic match in a performance application, and be aware that the cheaper fittings have smaller internal passages, adding a 3/8" return like does little good if a fitting in that line has a 1/4" or 3/16" internal passage like some do! it does very little good to run a 1/2" fuel feed and return line and hook it up to the factory 3/8" or 1/4" fittings at the factory tank , if the flow gets restricted at any point youll see problems HERES ONE SOURCE OF FITTINGS http://www.holley.com/division/Earls.asp#21 http://www.holley.com/types/Ultra-Flex%20Hose%20Ends%20(standard%20length%20nut).asp generally when Ive added a sump to a tank Ive used a steady flush of CO2 to fill the tank and make it totally inert if I had doubts, but several flushes with hot water with some dishwashing soap mix generally removes the vapors/residue. then after your done welding, just let it dry out in the hot sun with the air compressor flushing the interior. keep in mind youll be drilling 4-6 holes in the tank and welding the sump over the holes so fuel dropping thru the holes is trapped in the sump under high G loads, you DON,T want to cut one huge hole it weakens the tank and makes it far more flexiable, btw if your not 100% sure all the pin holes in the weld seam are filled you can silver solder over the welds, or get cheap and dirty and use J&B epoxy as an exterior sealer, use something like this http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit-P88C38.aspx?UserID=1045409&SessionID=PoOgOUlfTTIo3wZCT7yV to seal crud inside the tank naturally if your bucks up, you avoid the work buy purchasing a aluminum fuel cell, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D293220%2DS&N=700+115&autoview=sku keep in mind its does little good to run larger 1/2" lines in a high hp application and then install fittings or filters ETC. with internal passages significantly smaller than the 1/2" lines feeding them. Ive seen many installs where decent line size was rendered nearly useless with fittings or filters of significantly smaller internal dia. rendering the line size almost inmaterial to the flow restriction the fitting pressented to the flow of fuel a 1/2" fittings with 5/16" internal passages effectively make a 1/2" like flow at a 5/16" line rate I can assure you fittings like these restrict flow rates more than CORRECTLY SELLECTED and SIZED /MATCHED FITTINGS LIKE THESE

ID suggest pulling the intake and filling the radiator and heads very carefully just to the point where the coolant level is at the lower edge of the coolant transfer port in the rear of the heads, then check for leakage in the oil pan, its not unusual to have NEW heads and head gaskets on an old block leak if the correct gaskets not used or the surfaces were not properly cleaned, you might also have a cracked head or block, so youll need to track down the source, not just assume its the intake manifold to head gasket area leaking (WHICH MIGHT BE TRUE) Ive seen mismatched gaskets with new heads leak frequently, you generally want to use the head gasket specified by the head manufacurer unless your sure exactly what your assembling, and have carefully checked for miss-matched coolant ports, etc.

face it, many, maybe, most muffler shops want you in and out of thier bays as fast as possiable and want to use the least expensive components they can find , and want to take the least effort and time they can, yet derive the most proffit, from the work. you can totally avoid that by either buying top quality components and paying big bucks, or...if your budgets like mine.... if something BREAKS , well,thats a P.I.T.A., and probably a badly designed or improperly installed component, but thats what WELDERS are designed for.....learn to weld and things like that are at most a minor repair that will usually take well under 30 minutes and its almost certain that you can put some thought into the repair and make it darn near "bullet proof" and very unlikely to re-occure:thumbsup: no part is immune from a bad installation. in fact! once you learn to weld and you can weld up a totally custom exhaust that will exactly match your design and application goals for far less than you can buy one for, in cheap aluminized steel or the far better stainless steel http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=exhaust+kit&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=6&x=32 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_11525_-1_10245 http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/universalsatinxl.asp http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/mufflers.html http://www.borla.com/products/universal.aspx you can build your own stainless steel exhaust system and personally install it and its very unlikely to cost nearly what youll pay a muffler shop, and if you shop for components carefully youll find that a stainless exhaust will cost only slightly more than the muffler shop charges for inferior aluminized steel if yourgoing thru the work do it correctly, buy and install decent components so your not back doing it again in a year or so! BUT THEN I ONLY BUY AND INSTALL STAINLESS COMPONENTS IF GIVEN AN OPTION, INSTALL THEM MYSELF, AND CAN,T REMEMBER HAVING PROBLEMS INSTALLING OR HAVING A COMPONENT FAIL IF ITS PROPERLY INSTALLED...QUALITY EXHAUST HANGERS DON,T GENERALLY FAIL AND QUALITY WELDS DON,T GENERALLY BREAK, AND IF YOU INSTALL IN CORRECTLY YOURSELF AND CAN WELD YOULL SAVE MONEY AND HAVE THE EQUIPMENT AND SKILL TO FIX IT IN THE UNLIKELY EVENT IT DID BREAK:thumbsup: JUST ONE MORE REASON TO LEARN TO WELD AND HAVE ACCESS TO A GOOD MIG,TIG, OR OXY-ACETOLENE TORCH:D :thumbsup: