grumpyvette

a great deal depends on the storage conditions the engines been subjected too, but if it is in reasonable shape and was stored even close to correctly, the marvel mystery oil in the upper cylinders, new spark plugs and new coolant and fresh oil and a carb rebuild may be all thats needed. personally Id pull the oil pan and look closely at the lower engines condition., and rebuilding the carb if its been sitting that long is almost a given, but generally rings and bearings will have few if any bad effects from sitting for years PROVIDED they were covered in oil and not subjected to moisture, Id sure suggest pulling a couple main caps and inspecting at least the #3 & #4 main cap conditions

http://www.goodson.com/ http://www.goodson.com/technical_support/ Got questions? We've got the answers. Call 1-800-533-8010 from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm (central time), Monday through Friday YOULL NEED TO KNOW YOUR SPRING DIA. SPRING BIND HEIGHT,, MAX CAM LIFT, CURRENT RETAINER TO VALVE GUIDE CLEARANCE, THE TYPE AND DIA OF THE VALVE SEALS YOU WANT TO USE, IN MOST CASES ALL THAT INFO CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE CAM MANUFACTURERS AND THE PARTS THEY SUGGEST TO USE WITH THIER CAMS, THE VORTEC HEADS DON,T FLOW EXTREEMLY WELL OVER .550 LIFT SO THERES LITTLE SENCE IN EXCEEDING THAT AND THE PORTS WON,T FLOW WELL ON A 350-383 AT OVER 6000RPM EVEN PORTED SO THATS GOING TO LIMIT THE CAM SELLECTION ALSO crane Tech Line - 386-258-6174 CROWER http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml ERSON CAMS http://pbmperformance.com/store.php?catId=327 both tools and info here(ABOVE)ANY TIME YOU NEED TOOLS OR ENGINE MACHINING ADVICE ASK THESE GUYS, THEY USUALLY KNOW EXACTLY THE RIGHT INFO. this might help http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/vortec_valve_spring_upgrade/index.html http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=4716 http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html http://www.chevymania.com/tech/vortec.htm http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D5306&autoview=sku ported vortecs (POSTED BY http://www.maxracesoftware.com)

the material the heads are manufactured from will have a big effect on thier ability to disipate heat quickly from the combustion chamber,increasing compression tends to increase the heat generated durring combustion, aluminum transfers heat much faster than iron into the coolant, and its that factor more than most that forces you to reduce the effective compression slighly compared to an aluminum head IF your getting into the detonation range due to heat, of combustion, compression,and the ignition advance the surface finnish and shape of the combustion chamber and piston dome,coolant temp. air temp,the combustion chambers tumble and swirl, the fuel octane, the quench/squish distance, spark plug heat range, also will effect your engines tendency to reach detonation as a general rule on pump gas the temp in the combustion chamber is the limiting factor on reaching detonation. http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/92966/ short answer, aluminum tends to allow you to run about 1/2 point more effective compression, IE, if iron heads get into detonation at 10:1 ALUMINUM might ALLOW YOU TO RUN 10.3-10.4:1 BEFORE GETTING INTO DETONATION, BUT ON THE PLUS SIDE AT LEAST IN THEORY IRON HEADS AT ANY GIVEN CPR WILL HAVE A SLIGHT ADVANTAGE IN HP but in my real world testing the differance is much closer almost non-existant the main advantage I see in aluminum heads is lighter weight and thier much easier to repair when damaged http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Dynamic%20Compression%20Tech.htm http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=36

look if your only installing a distrib after a manifold swap, ITS not complicated, pull the #1 plug and put you thumb over the hole tightly, turn the engine in the normal dirrection of rotation, with a breaker bar and scocket untill you get compression in the #1 cylinder, as the damper TDC line approches the TDC timing tab, drop the distributor in with the rotor facing the #1 cylinder,compensate for the way the distrib gear causes the rotor to rotate as in seats,so its seated pointing where you intended, if it won,t fully seat turn the oil pump drive with a very large flat blade screw driver untill it will,with the distrib removed and try again, once it seats,facing the correct dirrection, install and tighten the distrib clamp so its difficult to spin the distrib easily by hand but still possiable to spin the distrib by hand, re-install the #1 plug and wire, install the cap and all ignition related wires, use your timing light and set the ignition timing,per the shop manuals instructions, tighten the distibutor hold clamp so it can,t move, IF it takes more than 10 minutes your in need of more practice or nearly hopeless as a mechanic.The CLOYES true roller style is vastly superior to the factory link belt design how come its 180 degs out of phase? I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm drop the distrib in with the rotor pointing at the #1 cylinder, and YEAH! it physically possiable to get the distributors rotor to point at any place you want it too by changing the oil pump drive shaft alignment with a large flat blade screw driver while the distributors out of the engine and thats easily changed, but to do it correctly,you want the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke, so pull the #1 plug, get a large ratchet/socket on the damper and put your finger over the open plug hole and slowly rotate the engine by hand in its normal rotational dirrection untill you see pressure build under your finger as the rotor approaches #1 cylinder location on the distributor base which you should have marked as its supposed to be in dirrect alignment between the distrib and the number 1 cylinder on the engine, remember the distributor and cam gears are heilical and the rotor turns as it seats so compensate slightly. and the rotor should be just coming into alignment as pressure builds under your finger, once thats done re-install the distrib cap and plug and use a timing light to set the timing, you normally want about 6-12 degrees BTDC at idle and watch it advance to about 37 degrees as the rpms build to about 3000rpmok, then have you checked the distributor to oil pump drive shaft length?, IF YOUR DISTRIB LEAKS OIL AROUND THE BASE GASKET.. it seems the distrib is not seating fully against the intake ring gasket and the distrib to oil pump drive is suspected of being a bit to long, there should be about .050 slack MINIMUM between the oil pump drive shaft and the distrib gear

I just might, but WHICH transmission exactly are we talking about? i know of lots of adapter bell housing manufacturers, theres even blank bell housings available for custom machineing http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm http://www.advanceadapters.com/ http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/101879-mcleod-industries.html http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/100778-trans-dapt-performance.html http://www.streetperformance.com/m/cats/204-transmission-drivetrain/4732-bellhousing-adapters/100771-tci-automotive.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/vw_por.htm#8CYL http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/engineadapters.html http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/engineadapters.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/other.htm http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=5325 http://www.pacificcustoms.com/1ENGADP.html http://www.offyparts.com/index.php/cPath/77

differant engine families, it won,t interchange, without an incrediable amount of expensive machine work

there ARE adapter bell housings for most transmissions on a SBC http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/performance_parts/index.html?item=1117 http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=80&products_id=885 http://lakewood.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/34445/15005 http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=98387 http://www.accel-ignition.com/brands.aspx?BrandID=5 http://www.hpsalvage.com/st.htm

is there a time limit on posting good info?

its a week end toy! its main use is keeping my wallet thin, hands greasy, tools from rusting and my blood pressure high!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200259978556 Id like too swap too a 200 amp Alternator on a corvette and this APPEARS to be an option at a good price, BUT on close examination the stock Alternator has one main red wire connecting to the positive battery like this but the replacement on e-bay doesn,t also have the extra plug connection the stock Alternator has, please clue me in guys as Alternator are not my strong suit.???

THANK YOU! ILL ADD THE INFO TO MY DATA BASE!

it will tend to limit wheel spin on launches just a bit better, giving you a slightly faster 60 ft time in many cases, it will lower the tendency to run into detonation on bad fuel just a bit better it will increase the usefull tq curve about 150 rpm higher Ive found that cam runs better in my 383 that way when I tested it,(maybe because I had a mis matched 3000rpm stall converter speed) it costs very little to do and you can easily reversed if you don,t like the results http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119651&lvl=2&prt=5 btw for those guys reading this, and thinking of using one, that don,t know, its NOT, in my opinion, a good street performance choice, but it makes very good upper mid and high rpm power on the track, where its designed to be used and it LOVES a 150-200 shot of nitrous added above 3500rpm (Id suggest you set the rev limiter at 6500rpm)

it should be obvious that a trailer should be used rather than a tow strap when towing your car, if thats an option, but even on a trailer the car needs to be secured in place to prevent the weight shifting, most cars don,t have a easy access location to hook up a tow strap ...or firmly lock the car in place on a trailer and randomly hooking straps or hooks to suspension components is asking for damaged parts, yet another excellent reason to own a welder http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_371258_371258 http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/cPath/51_995/products_id/24689?osCsid=887efdc6ab2c4c8f67f8921794f30119 buy at least two (fours going to be much better) and bolt and weld them to the frame for easy access and security on a trailer transport, and emergency towing http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/Extreme_4x4/Keeper_towhooks.htm

could you post a component parts list(engine and drivetrain specs) Im sure many guys would be very interested

IF you take this advice seriously youll save ALOT of time and money DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html how to assemble an engine basics on video these books HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance-Blocks-Budget-Design/dp/1884089348/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231793&sr=1-1 JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter-Modifying-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231760&sr=1-1 SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231724&sr=1-1 How to Rebuild Small-Block Chevy Lt1/Lt4 Engines http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-Block-Chevy-Engines-Hp1393/dp/1557883939/ref=pd_sim_b

thats an old and OUT DATED trick,like useing 2" lincoln 430 v8 intake valves for exhaust valves in a bbc, because they were made from exhaust steel TRW http://www.ferrea.com/ and similar companys makes better valves now maybe some of this will help See also Rover V8 engine GM experimented with aluminum engines starting in the early 1950s, and work on a production unit commenced in 1956. Originally intended for 180 in³ (2.9 L) displacement, Buick was designated by GM as the engine design leader, and decided to begin with a larger, 215 in³ (3.5 L) size, which was deemed ideal for the new "senior compact cars" introduced for the 1961 model year. This group of cars was commonly referred to as the "B-O-P" group — for Buick-Olds-Pontiac — or the Y-bodies. The 215 had a 4.24 in (107.7 mm) bore spacing, a bore of 3.5 in (88.9 mm), and a stroke of 2.8 in (71.1 mm), for an actual displacement of 3533 cc. The engine was the lightest mass-production V8 in the world, with a dry weight of only 318 lb (144 kg). It was standard equipment in the 1961 Buick Special. Oldsmobile and Pontiac also used the all-aluminum 215 on its mid-sized cars, the Oldsmobile F-85, Cutlass and Jetfire, and Pontiac Tempest and LeMans. Pontiac used the Buick version of the 215; Oldsmobile had its own. The Oldsmobile version of this engine, although sharing the same basic architecture, had cylinder heads designed by Oldsmobile engineers, and was produced on a separate assembly line. Among the differences between the Oldsmobile and Buick versions, it was somewhat heavier, at 350 lb (159 kg). The design differences were in the cylinder heads: Buick used a 5-bolt pattern around each cylinder where Oldsmobile went to a 6-bolt pattern. The 6th bolt was added to the intake manifold side of the head, one extra bolt for each cylinder, meant to alleviate a head-warping problem on high-compression versions. This meant that Oldsmobile heads would go on Buick blocks, but not vice versa, and that changing the compression ratio on an Oldsmobile 215 required changing the heads, but on a Buick 215, only the pistons, which was less expensive and simpler. For these reasons, the more common Buick version has today also emerged as more desirable. Later Rover versions of the aluminum block and subsequent Buick iron small blocks (300, 340 and 350) went to a 4-bolt-per-cylinder pattern. At introduction, Buick's 215 was rated 150 hp (112 kW) at 4400 rpm. This was raised soon after introduction to 155 hp (116 kW) at 4600 rpm. 220 ft·lb (298 N·m) of torque was produced at 2400 rpm with a Rochester 2GC two-barrel carburetor and 8.8:1 compression ratio. A mid-year introduction was the Buick Special Skylark version, which had 10.25:1 compression and a four-barrel carburetor, raising output to 185 hp (138 kW) at 4800 rpm and 230 ft·lb (312 N·m) at 2800 rpm. For 1962, the four-barrel engine increased the compression ratio to 10.25:1, raising it to 190 hp (142 kW) at 4800 rpm and 235 ft·lb (319 N·m) at 3000 rpm. The two-barrel engine was unchanged. For 1963, the four-barrel was bumped to 11:1 compression and an even 200 hp (149 kW) at 5000 rpm and 240 ft·lb (325 N·m) at 3200 rpm, a respectable 0.93 hp/in³ (56.6 hp/liter). Unfortunately, the great expense of the aluminum engine led to its cancellation after the 1963 model year. The engine had an abnormally high scrap ratio due to hidden block-casting porosity problems, which caused serious oil leaks. Another problem was clogged radiators from antifreeze mixtures incompatible with aluminum. It was said that one of the major problems was because they had to make extensive use of air gauging to check for casting leaks during the manufacturing process, and not being able to detect leaks on blocks that were as much as 95% complete. This raised the cost of complete engines to more than that of a comparable all cast-iron engine. Casting sealing technology was not advanced enough at that time to prevent the high scrap rates. The Buick 215's very high power to weight ratio made it immediately interesting for automotive and marine racing. Mickey Thompson entered a stock-block Buick 215-powered car in the 1962 Indianapolis 500. From 1946 to 1962 there hadn't been a single stock-block car in this famous race. In 1962 the Buick 215 was the only non-Offenhauser powered entry in the field of 33 cars. Rookie driver Dan Gurney qualified eighth and raced well for 92 laps before retiring with transmission problems. Surplus engine blocks of the Oldsmobile (6 bolt per cylinder) version of this engine formed the basis of the Formula One Repco V8 used by Brabham to win the 1966 and 1967 Formula One championship. No other American stock-block engine has won a Formula One championship. Buick 215s have been engine swapped into countless sports cars, especially Chevrolet Vegas and MG sports cars. The engine remains well supported by enthusiast clubs, specialist parts suppliers, and by shops that specialize in these conversions. The Buick 215 was used in a small sports car known as the Apollo from 1962 to 1963, and also in the Asardo 3500 GM-S show car. Although dropped by GM in 1963, in January 1965 the tooling for the aluminum engine was sold to Britain's Rover Group to become the Rover V8 engine, which would remain in use for more than 35 years. GM tried to buy it back later on, but Rover declined, instead offering to sell engines back to GM. GM refused this offer. http://www.mgcars.org.uk/v8_conversions/engine/general/general.html http://www.team.net/TR8/mp/html/body_buick_215_conversion.html http://www.taperformance.com/ http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/GM-215-Engine-Identification.htm http://www.rebuiltcrateengines.com/buick-215-v8-engine-p-2095.html

the 383 uses the far more comon 350 block, as its basis with coolant between the cylinder walls, the 377 uses the far less comon 400 block, they make aproximately equal hp but the 383 makes it at about 400 rpm lowerin the rpm band, the 377 has less valve shouding, and a better bore to stroke ratio, and I used to build lots of them BUT THAT WAS BEFORE WE FOUND that building a 406sbc useing the 383s 3.75" stroke with a 4.155 bore in a 400 block you get even more hp and torque so if youve got a 400 block thats the route we usually suggest

Im 60 and look it!, I remember ALMOST all the mistakes and what worked TOO!(plus I cheat I keep notes and records on all the engines and cars Ive built, or worked on!) Ive come bye most of the scars and info by experiance and watching closely, both my own and others experiances

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119651&lvl=2&prt=5 useing your figures, youve got approximately a 10.7 static and 8.6 dynamic cpr ID retard the can 4 degrees btw

ITS A COMON MISCONCEPTION,THAT YOU MEASURE PORT CROSS SECTION AT THE PORT ENTERANCE,BUT ITS NOT the port area at the enterance , you need to use in the calcs, ITS the MINIMAL port cross section at the SMALLEST point in the port, usually near the pushrod area. LIKE a funnel, its not the largest part of the opening but the smallest thats the restriction to flow SO HOW do you MEASURE THEN?? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5649 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900014&N=700+115&autoview=sku runner LENGTH and CROSS SECTION plus PLENUM VOLUME (if there is a plenum)effects the intake harmonics and how effectively you can ram tune the intake runner charge to fill the cylinders, and don,t forget exhaust scavaging , compression ratio and cam timing, and valve curtain area,and drive train gearing must match the intended combos effective operational power band http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html

I CAN,T EVEN TELL YOU HOW INSANE SOME CONVERSATIONS ARE! GUYS TELL YOU A 210CC afr HEADS GOING TO KILL TQ ON A 383 BUT ITS FINE FOR A 400 SBC, WHAT b.s.,, the guys that tell you you should have used 195cc heads on your 383,sbc will all point to the larger 210cc head as having lower port flow speeds, while thats true, the amount of the port flow reduction is all but meaningless, AT ANY RPM POINT, if you ask them how much the port flow was reduced youll never get a firm intelligent answer because they don,t have a clue, and are just repeating , like mindless parrots,crap they heard. DO YOU REALLY THINK SUBTRACTING 4% FROM THE DISPLACEMENT OR ADDING 1% TO THE PORTS CROSS SECTIONAL AREA WILL HURT THE TORQUE NEARLY AS MUCH AS THE ADDED PORT FLOW HELPS THE UPPER RPM POWER CURVE the differance is about 1% the 210cc heads superior,, PORT FLOW SPEEDS WILL BE EQUAL OR HIGHER JUST 200RPM HIGHER IN THE POWER CURVE WITH THAT 383 VS A 400SBC. and your correct the cam, intake and other factors far out weight the differance in port cross section and flow speed differances, any reduction in torque is due to lower compression, a differant cam or the intake or header design not the port size differance, and the 210cc head has a marked advantage with the larger cams JUST REMEMBER THE 210CC HEADS ARE DESIGNED FOR sbc combos WITH CAMS WITH OVER .575 LIFT AND OVER 245 DEGS DURRATION AT .050 LIFT, AND COMPRESSION RATIOS OVER 10.5:1 IF YOUR LOOKING TO GET THE FULL ADVANTAGE FROM THE PORT DESIGN, AND DISPLACEMENTS OF 377 PLUS here http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1737510521 http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm here’s a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some common cross sectional port sizes (measured at the smallest part of the ports) ...........................sq inches........port cc edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170 vortec......................1.66.............170 tfs195......................1.93.............195 afr 180.....................1.93.............180 afr 195.....................1.98.............195 afr 210.....................2.05.............210 dart pro 200................2.06.............200 dart pro 215................2.14.............215 brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221 dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230 edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238 edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266 tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250 Potential HP based on Airflow (Hot Rod, Jun '99, p74): Airflow at 28" of water x 0.257 x number of cylinders = potential HP or required airflow based on HP: HP / 0.257 / cylinders = required airflow

your rpm level will be determined in large part buy the combo of heads, cam and engine stroke, a 383 will generally peak some where in the 6300rpm-7300rpm band if its properly assembled....if you want to smokem from a 60mph roll your looking at building an engine thats not really designed for street use, and your more than likely talking a bbc with high cpr and possiably useing nitrous in a sbc. my 1968 vette used to do that easily, but a 13.7:1 cpr full roller 496 BBC with CROWER injection is hardly the ideal engine in traffic

heres info you will need http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcomp.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/Drag.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/turbochargers.pdf http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbotech.html http://www.automotivearticles.com/Turbo_Selection.shtml http://www.m-p-c.com/turbomap.htm http://www.mez.co.uk/turbo1.html http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Real-World-High-Performance-Turbocharger-Systems/dp/1932494294/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1222963874&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/Turbocharging-Performance-Handbook-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760328056/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b http://www.amazon.com/Turbocharging-Performance-Handbook-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760328056/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b http://www.amazon.com/Street-TurbochargingHP1488-Installation-High-Performance-Turbocharger/dp/1557884889/ref=pd_bbs_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1222963874&sr=8-3

thats a question similar to (how pretty is the next girl youll pass in the hallway in the mall?) look its very unlikely that 6 psi of boost will hurt a stock LT1 but factors like ring gap, ignition curve, coolant temp, air temp, oil level,oil temp.,octane of the fuel used, etc. will effect the results generally Id say 6 psi of boost is unlikely to hurt much,if you back off, on the ignition advance curve and use high test gas, but you know that theres always that tendency to run at the upper limits, push the ignition advance,etc. and at some point youll get yourself into detonation and damage parts, with those little tweaks, used too get just a bit more hp from the combo, your far better off , building the combo for its intended use!

the basically stock (Z) body has had a 300hp-350 hp even a 400hp, sbc installed hundreds of times and the quality of the drivetrain components, motor and transmission mounts, the radiator, etc., that were used and the care taken durring the swap process will determine the results, get this manual before you start http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/5_speed_prices.html http://www.advancedracing.com/car_parts/gears/manual.php http://www.classicchevy.com/product.asp?pf_id=08-400&dept_id=1857 http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticles/corp_0808_tremec_tko_600_the_shift_is_on_tech/index.html and if you want to push things and learn to fabricate??? http://ywnv.vidiac.com/recentvideos/7/8398a7ec-f655-4e70-9d11-99ab012eba03.htm I thought you guys might like to look this over,a NICE CLEAN INSTALL, and A VIDEO, its an interesting installed 572 BBC swap that goes 8.30's at 165 on the giggle gas,and is STREET LEGAL,"TAGGED" (hes now installing wheelie bars for obvious reasons)