grumpyvette

guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak! its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block and studs,before you start the assembly, and just dip the total threaded surface on the lower studs course thread end of the stud that screws into the block into the correct sealant. spin it in your fingers slowly as you move the stud to the hole in the block to keep from dripping sealant on the deck, thread it into the block full depth , back it out a 1/2 turn and let it set up for a few minutes before assembling the head gaskets and heads,but assemble the heads while the sealants still fresh/liquid, torque too spec and let the engine set for a few hours (preferably over night) http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=386 the stuff works far more relieably than most thread pastes or thread sealants, it cleans ,off fingers with a scotchbrite pad and gas or alcohol,....provided you have not let it set up on your skin very long, once its started too dry ...good luck YES it works on BOLTS ALSO OLD POST COVERS THAT INFO I can,t believe the stuff I see at times..in the car mags that are SUPPOSED to be articles composed by guys who know what they are doing!!!!!!! I picked up a copy of one of the more comon, chevy based magazines and theres PICTURES of a guy dipping head bolts in yellow weather strip adhesive to be used as a thread sealant on the bolt threads (its not designed to come in direct contact with oil and/or high heat coolant),and its not going to give the correct tq readings either, and on the next page the guys gooping, GOBS of clear silicone like youll use to seal aquariums or bathroom fixtures 1/4 thick on/around the intake manifold ports, NEITHER SEALANT is DESIGNED FOR or is LIKELY to perform correctly IN EITHER APPLICATION, and WHERE does this guy think all that excess silicone will go once the intakes torqued down???? theres only two high probabilitys, it will flow into the port where it will eventually harden and get sucked into the cylinders or it may hang there causing a restriction in the port, or if it flows down, it gets into the lifter gallery where its eventually going to get into the oil pump pick up screen, restricting or blocking oil flow i would not let these guys fix a flat tire let alone work on MY ENGINES all I can do is shake my head and wonder who if ANYONE screens these articles always use the manufacturers suggested installation instructions, as some applications or gasket types REQUIRE differant lubes or sealants but heres a rought guide head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69 or this http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=2&familyid=384 (NOT QUITE AS GOOD BUT STILL OK) then insert and tq heads in place head gaskets #3 main bolts #2 rod bolts #2 oil pump stud and nut #4 oil pan bolts #5 oil pan gasket #6 cam spocket bolts #4 timing cover gasket #6 timing cover bolts #1 intake bolts #1 intake gasket #6 thermostat housing bolts #5 thermostat housing gasket (also do you really need it) usually yes #6 Exhaust manifold/header bolts #1 Exhaust manifold/header gaskets #3 Water pump bolts #5 water pump gaskets #6 fuel pump #6 crank/damper bolt #1 Torque converter bolts #4 flywheel/flexplate bolts #4 bellhousing bolts #2 1 antiseize 2 oil or ARP thread lube 3 copper coat spray gasket sealer or apply dry in some cases (see manufactures suggestions) 4 loctite (red or blue depends on application ,read the lables) 5 http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69 6 black high temp RTV use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS

"are all rod stretch gauges created equal " obviously no more than all girls are equally good looking but most of the gauges are functional, some just have more features or more precise calibrations, some are adjustable in length ,over a wider range, some have digital read outs, ETC. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900015&N=700+4294854225+115&autoview=sku http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0609_using_rod_bolt_stretch_tool/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0710ch_proper_engine_fasteners/index.html

I did a quick DOUBLE TAKE on that graph the first time also....look closer at the edges of the graph, its points out the STRONGER the material USED the SMALLER the dia. necessary for a given tensile strength, your limited in clearance on rod bolt max size so the material needs to have higher yeild strength, and potential durrability, to increase the rod bolt strength FROM ARP "Metallurgy for the Non-Engineer By Russell Sherman, PE 1. What is grain size and how important is it? Metals freeze from the liquid state during melting from many origins (called allotropic) and each one of these origins grows until it bumps into another during freezing. Each of these is a grain and in castings, they are fairly large. Grains can be refined (made smaller); therefore, many more of them can occupy the same space, by first cold working and then by recrystallizing at high temperature. Alloy steels, like chrome moly, do not need any cold work; to do this – reheat treatment will refine the grain size. But austenitic steels and aluminum require cold work first. Grain size is very important for mechanical properties. High temperature creep properties are enhanced by large grains but good toughness and fatigue require fine grain size-the finer the better. (High temp creep occurs at elevated temperature and depending on material and load could be as much as .001 per inch/per hour.) All ARP bolts and studs are fine grain – usually ASTM 8 or finer. With 10 being the finest. 2. How do you get toughness vs. brittleness? With steels, as the strength goes up, the toughness decreases. At too high a strength, the metal tends to be brittle. And threads accentuate the brittleness. A tool steel which can be heat-treated to 350,000 psi, would be a disaster as a bolt because of the threads." http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechMetals.html

that depends on the application thier used in, the under cut studs maintain thier clamp force, more consistantly over a longer stretch distance, let me explain that a bit if you use the standard , studs on a cylinder head the heads get torqued in place at standard temps, when the engine heats up the metals expand, and the clamp loads tend to increase a bit,when it cools the metals contract,and the clamp loads tend to return to original levels, this cycles the stress and clamp loads, on an iron block with iron heads and even with aluminum heads the standard non-under cut studs are fine in most applications,because BOTH the studs and the head gaskets are designed to work with this repetitive cycle, if you have an all aluminum block and heads your probably better off with the under cut studs due to the greater dimensional shifts as the engine changes temp. either design will tend to keep the clamp forces in a useable and predictable range, but the non-undercut studs are less likely to maintain the same exact clamp forces over the temp shifts the engine sees between running and cooling cycles. short answer, on a iron block engine ID just sellect the standard ARP studs and follow the installation info posted earier in the thread, keep in mind aluminum thread strength fatigues far faster than iron or steel and it requires about 2.5-3 times the thread dia. to depth ratio to equal the resistance to stripping threads in aluminum vs about 1.7-2 times the thread dia. to depth ratio to equal the resistance to stripping threads in steel or iron

many guys don,t realize that the rod bolt material and cross sectional area are critical to durrability , especially in a high rpm range combo,while the rods themselfs ocassionally fail, its much more likely that the rod bolts lost thier clamping strength, stretched a bit first and that was a major contributing factor in the bearing failure or the rod failure process. interesting info from ARP Other Stresses It must be realized that the direct reciprocating load is not the only source of stresses in bolts. A secondary effect arises because of the flexibility of the journal end of the connecting rod. The reciprocating load causes bending deformation of the bolted joint (yes, even steel deforms under load). This deformation causes bending stresses in the bolt as well as in the rod itself. These bending stresses fluctuate from zero to their maximum level during each revolution of the crankshaft. Fastener Load The first step in the process of designing a connecting rod bolt is to determine the load that it must carry. This is accomplished by calculating the dynamic force caused by the oscillating piston and connecting rod. This force is determined from the classical concept that force equals mass times acceleration. The mass includes the mass of the piston plus a portion of the mass of the rod. This mass undergoes oscillating motion as the crankshaft rotates. The resulting acceleration, which is at its maximum value when the piston is at top dead center and bottom dead center, is proportional to the stroke and the square of the engine speed. The oscillating force is sometimes called the reciprocating weight. Its numerical value is proportional to: It is seen that the design load, the reciprocating weight, depends on the square of the RPM speed. This means that if the speed is doubled, for example, the design load is increased by a factor of 4. This relationship is shown graphically below for one particular rod and piston http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechWhy.html

studs put less stress & wear on the block deck threads, and provide more consistant clamp loads, the 12 point, stud nuts and washers tend to have less clearance issues in tight areas, than the head on a 6 point bolt, and are less likely to round off as the tq is applied, but be aware that getting the heads up and out in a confined engine compartment is generally a P.I.T.A. over studs that extend up several inches past the block when fenders and brake boosters, etc. are in the way http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=14706 http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=14714 bits of useful info here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137777&highlight=sealant

these look great, and theres little doubt they are a quality tool 1: http://www.emaxaction.com/cdi1503mfrmh.aspx 2: http://www.toolsource.com/torque-wrench-microadj-metal-handle-20150-ftlbs-plain-head-p-95221.html CONSISTANCY and REPEATABILITY ,rather than exact torque, is the key, if your off a ft lb its not catastrophic. Ive used both a SEARS and a HOME DEPOT TQ WRENCHs FOR MANY YEARS. built over 150 engines and had zero problems consistant technique and consistancy in the way you lube and work the torque loads up in stages and having the bolts and studs lubed and cycling, the bolt/stud up to the recomended tq and loosening it and repeating that several times tends t0o give consistant results, USE ARP FASTENERS http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100058237 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944595000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches btw rod bolts SHOULD have a stretch gauge used but its not 100% mandatory, cycling them up to spec and releasing the tq then repeating several times with a tq wrench, following the APR instructions gets you very consistant results IVE checked the tq wrench results with the stretch gauge http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D100%2D9942&N=700+115&autoview=sku

yeah! that sound might be nice, but it tends to loose a bit of its seductive nature when you find your watching tail lights a bit to frequently....we found that out rapidly, want a bit of both,charicteristics, build a 377 (350 crank in a 400 block) but again, the guys that had a 400 block soon found that a properly built 406-421 stroker tended to out run the 377, about the same peak hp but more mid and low rpm tq as the cylinder head and cam technology advanced the ability to feed and use those extra cubic inches proved that added displacement tends to have advantages. 35 years ago the heads and cams available would barely feed a 327-350 displacement at 5500-7000rpm,to make max power, we have made big improvements since then in head flow and valve control. lets say your average well thought thru 383 will make 1.1 hp per cubic inch and a well designed 302 makes 10% more hp per cubic inch 383 x 1.1=421 hp 302 x 332hp plus 10%=365 hp, your still 56 hp lower and that makes a differance THERES EVEN A LARGER DIFFERANCE in useable tq

great PICTURES and a well done thread! BTW the cam we used to get the best results with in the past on retro Z28 builds was a crane 110921 flat tappet solid lifter http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 best with the manual trans and 4.11-4.56 rear gears in a light car. you might find this interesting http://www.camaro-untoldsecrets.com/articles/crossram.htm the offy intakes still available and twin 600 cfm carbs tend to work great...but theres been lots of improvements in things like roller rockers and intakes since then, and a very similar built 383 is almost certainly going to be faster http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=OFY%2D5893&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=OFY-5903 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=OFY-5902

Im running that crane 119661 cam retarded 4 degrees BTW but detonation has not been a problem, remember that the coolant temp, air temps the engine sees, QUENCH distance, type of head gasket and its construction ,ignition advance,plug heat range,piston to bore clearance, exhaust valve seat width, and oil temp and pollishing your combustion chamber and piston domes, and your AIR/FUEL RATIO , and the effective DYNAMIC compression ratio, have a noticable effect on detonation and if you do see detonation, theres octane boosters like TOULUENE http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html

a few dozen shop manuals, and books on engine rebuilding helps a great deal, being a tool freak doesn,t hurt either,and the CD I posted above plus having big dreams and a pitifull wallet brings the skills you need to compensate and do your own work when ever you can into clear perspective.....youll rarely if ever regret buying good tools or gaining skills and experiance........BTW if any of you local guys need help contact me, I do lots of the simpler stuff for the cost of parts/materials and coffee, and more extensive stuff dirt cheap, or free if your willing to do a good deal of the work along side me, plus the cost of parts/materials and coffee, naturally as I generally enjoy working on cars, and you can never have too many friends around to help on your personal projects or contacts either

we ALL tend to remember better and learn more from our own and others ,SCREW UPS than when things go flawlessly...if your not occasionally screwing something up its obvious your not doing much engine rebuilding or many extensive modifications on a steady basis, EXPERT= REQUIRES YOU TO BE EXTENSIVELY EXPERIANCED IN A CERTAIN FIELD OF ENDEVOR EXPERIANCE= VERTUALLY REQUIRES PAST SCREW UPS

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm rods designed like the 3 SERIES generally won,t work with stroker cranks while the 2 series usually will the connecting rods you sellect make a huge differance in the rod to cam lobe clearance, even a small base cam won,t clear some designs, it should be obvious that the connecting rod with the thru bolt has a great deal less cam lobe clearance potentially than the cap screw design next to it., and the cap screw rod probably clears the blocks oil pan rail area easier also

I AGREE IM impressed! nice job! Im sure youll see good results.

I know! youve never done something and your afraid youll mess it up, EXAMPLE the first time I looked over a TPI injection system I was very reluctant to start taking things apart, so as a hedge I took a dozen close up digital photos and labled every connection with masking tape and a majic marker sharpie pen, I had no idea how the injector connectors were released and didn,t realize there was a spring retainer untill Id got four removed, but after about the first dozen, I didn,t even bother looking any longer since things were so familiar. EXAMPLE the wifes MERCURY had the power seat control switch in the door go bad, I bought a new one,but I was very reluctant to disassemble the door panel, as I was sure ID screw it up!, but some careful inspection revealed it could easily be accessed and in 10 minutes I was done doing a job ID been hesitant to start for days. theres a first time for nearly everything and youll be surprised, in many cases youll find you enjoy knowing how to do things better.....think back to how clumsy and hesitant you probably felt when you started dateing,but learning new skills has its benefits now I got asked, "what do you do, who do you call when your about to tackle a job youve never done before?" now most guys sub out jobs to the dealer or a corvette shop when they get into areas they may not be familiar with,but I do ALL the work on my corvettes for TWO good reasons, first I could NEVER afford the shop rates and I can NEVER trust the quality of work many shops do, now ILL be the VERY FIRST GUY IN LINE to ADMIT Im in WAY over my head at times! but Ive always been able to research the processes, tools, and skills and do the work, or find someone too teach me the skills eventually, youll NEVER learn new stuff if your not willing to tackle new projects and get in way over your current skill level....besides it USUALLY requires buying LOTS OF new tools and meeting new friends so you can,t hardly lose! IF you take this advice seriously youll save ALOT of time and money, BUY YOUR CARS FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html how to assemble an engine basics on video these books HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance-Blocks-Budget-Design/dp/1884089348/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231793&sr=1-1 JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter-Modifying-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231760&sr=1-1 SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231724&sr=1-1 How to Rebuild Small-Block Chevy Lt1/Lt4 Engines http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-Block-Chevy-Engines-Hp1393/dp/1557883939/ref=pd_sim_b

your 100% correct if you were looking to cruise at 2500rpm , the cams above will be a P.I.T.A. on a car designed mostly for mid rpm cruiseing, you could get good performance from them but the street manors in traffic will be less than ideal....certainly manageable but not exactly smooth youll be far better off with something similar to these, if street manors and low to mid rpm cruising are a higher priorty, but have a LONG talk with the manufacturer of your choice about your combo and expectations before sellecting your cam and matching your combo gearing and compression, head lift restrictions and flow charicteristics http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module=catalog_page&catalogPageNumber=147&catalogSubCategory=Cams-Hydraulic+Roller ZZ-9 HydraulicRoller: Intake Exhaust This is an emission legal cam which makes Advertised Duration 282/ 287 over 400HP with our CNC"D LT heads and Duration at .050 212 /226 F-car headers. Great with an auto or six Gross Lift .483/.520 speed. Lobe Separation 112 http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00466&x=38&y=9 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1984&Engine_Size=262-400%20C.I.&partNumber=119821&partType=camshaft

BIGGER is NOT always BETTER, and since both the header primairy dia. and length and the collectors , which have a huge effect on the resulting scavaging can,t be changed as we change engine rpms, we need to maximize the cylinder scavaging charicteristics so as to maximize the cylinder filling and extend the rpm band of the torque curve but once your have the collectors and headers primairy designed to maximixe the scavaging in your chosen and intended rpm range and run the collectors to a (X) to induce both increased scavaging and lower restriction to flow theres not much that a larger exhaust past that point can do badly but increase the noise levels while it should be rather obvious that a smaller than ideal exhaust will hurt the upper rpm band as it tends to be a restriction yes if you have a smaller exhaust dia. it tends to act like an extended collector and increase low rpm torque at the cost OF being A restriction ONCE THE RPMS BUILD PAST A CERTAIN POINT. having both collectors empty into an (X) pipe EFFECTIVELY instantly doubles the cross sectional area of the exhaust pulse and significantly reduces the return reflected pressure wave, almost making the collectors act as if its running without any restiction compared to a true dual exhaust IF the exhaust pipes are large enough to provide a very low restriction at that point as I POINTED OUT ABOVE... theres plenty of fluid dynamics math and research out there to show that the distances the exhaust travels between exhaust pulses and the diam. and length are easily calculated, and past that length the second previous pulse has little effect compared to the current and previous pulse energy and reflective wave and lets not forget the cam timing displacement and intake port all effect the cylinder scavaging the headers can effectively provide also http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.headerdesign.com/ http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header LETS ASSUME I WANT MY 383 TO MAKE MAX POWER IN THE 5000RPM-6300RPM BAND (mostly so I can run street gears and pump high test gas and a low maintinance hydrolic roller cam, and IM willing to sacrifice a good deal of street driveability to maximize my corvettes track potential) useing the above calculators we quickly find I should have about a 3 sq inch intake port cross sectional area, the exhaust should be about 39" long in the primairy 1.825 dia,and about 18" -20" long in the collector, about 3"-3.5" dia. a matching compression of about 10.5:1-11:1 and a cam in the 230-235 durration range at .050 lift, heads that have the same 3 sq inch port and flow about 280cfm this will tend to maximize the power at THAT rpm band, and ideally a 3.90:1-4.11:1 rear gear ratio and a 3000rpm-3500rpm stall converter but that above will NOT work nearly as well as a smaller and less radical combo in the 1500rpm-4500rpm most cars spend 90% of thier time in its all a compromise and most people don,t realize how miserable that combo will make the daily driven car that rarely get above 4500rpm, where a smaller and longer exhaust would scavage more effectively but give up some of the potential for max power when the cars raced

I got asked recently what hydrolic roller cam ID suggest for a street/strip 383 combo?(obviously theres a wide sellection that may work,) ONE GENTELMAN pointed out ,after shopping around one of the least expensive deals seems to be the EDELBROCK CAM BELOW http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/22015/10002/-1# SB-Chevy 283-400 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Kit Duration Advertised 296° Intake/300° Exhaust Duration @ .050'' 234° Intake/238° Exhaust Lift @ Valve .539'' Intake/.548'' Exhaust Lift @ Cam .359'' Intake/.365'' Exhaust Lobe Separation Angle 112° Intake Centerline 107° Intake Timing @ .050" Open 10° BTDC Close 44° ABDC Exhaust Timing @ .050" Open 56° BBDC Close 2° ATDC IVE used similar cam designs (durration/lift/)in the past with excellent results and $709 for the cam, roller lifters and pushrods is a good value, naturally the REST of the components and the cars drive train and the cars intended use will effect the choice the only thing that makes me hesitate is the quality of edelbrocks cam cores.AS most IVE SEEN are not billet but cast cores which are less durable and on a 383, PLUS you want a small base circle cam......for rotating assembly clearance issues ,one reason I usually suggest this cam in similar combos http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/119661/10002/-1# http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=0&Ntt=11532-16&Ntk=all&Nty=1&D=11532-16&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallany&Dx=mode%2Bmatchallany&searchTerm=11532-16 Grind Number: HR-230/359-2S-12.90 IG Operating Range: 3000-6500 RPM Duration Advertised: 292° Intake / 300° Exhaust Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 238° Exhaust Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .539'' Intake / .558'' Exhaust Lobe Separation Angle: 112° Max Lift Angle: 107° ATDC Intake / 117° BTDC Exhaust Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 8° BTDC (opens) / 42° ABDC (closes) Exhaust - 56° BBDC (opens) / 2° ATDC (closes) with either cam youll want a 3000rpm stall converter , about 10.5:1 cpr and a 3.73-4.11:1 rear gear to maximize the preformance and a low restriction exhaust, headers and a high flow intake IM currently running the crane 119661 cam in MY 383 and Ive tested over a dozen cams in that engine, so if its a street/strip combo ID suggest going that route, SMALL BASE CIRCLE AND BILLET CORE.....yeah! YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY,FOR and DURABILITY FOR PARTS TENDS TO COST MORE

THE KNOCK can easily be due to poor oil flow to the rockers or CLEARANCE ISSUES that were not properly dealt with durring the assembly process,and you would sure not be the first guy with a loose flexplate or flywheel or a busted valve spring or badly adjusted rocker, a rod hitting the block, or valve hitting a piston, due to faulty assembly or clearancing ,KNOCKING in the engine is not necessarily limited to bad rod bearings STEP ONE either do a compression test, and diagnose the source or pull the engine apart and check, running it will only cause more problems TALLER PUMP,gears MAKE the pump body sit lower in the oil pan, if the stock pick-up was 3/8" from the pan floor, swapping to the longer pump body places it about ON the pan floor and it WILL severly restrict oil flow into the pump, and if you don,t change the pick-up that means the pan floor to pick-up clearance is MARGINAL to critical if the pumps changed from the standard to the high volume oil pump high volume oil pumps SHOULD NOT be used without the other matched components, a matching high volume baffled oil pan, (Id suggest a minimum of 7 qts) and windage screen (like the moroso design) that forces oil back into the sump,and the necessary block clearancing necessary to allow the oil to drain efficently back to the sump BUT if the full system components are used and the clearances verified IVE NEVER seen any loss of oil control or pressure.....naturally if all the factors are not met, problems might occure,if your engines NOT set up to USE the extra oil flow rates theres not much advantage to trying to supply extra oil, but that doesn,t mean the high volume oil pump doesn,t have a function if the engines designed to supply and control the extra oil flow that can be very beneficial if its used to supply extra oil flow rates to high stress areas, like grouving the lifter bores to supply pressurized oil to the cam lobes and drilling the front oil passage plugs to supply oil to the cam drive,slightly larger bearing clearances (a extra half a thousandth in some cases) to provide extra cooling to the bearings, and grouving the distrib to spray oil dirrectly onto the cam gear

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/autotranscrossref.html http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/gear_ratios.asp youll find what you want here

the IDEA is to have as much crud held in suspension when the oils drained as possiable when the plug is removed so that as much crud flows out with the oil as its drained as possiable, that will require the engine oil to have been heated and flowing recently so the loose cruds been recently stirred and mixed, rather than having settled out over night and when the oils thicker and colder, thus allowing some crud to stay on the oil pan floor.......think IM wrong! try getting a pair of CLEAR glass jars,after running the engine for 5 minutes the night before then turn it off, drain THE first pint of hot oil into one , then put the plug back and drain the NEXT pint the next morning, after taking the second sample let the rest drain into the usually oil pan, lable both, then pour out both into the oil pan and look at whats left in the glass containers, DON,T use the last qt drained hot or cold , as that last qts bound to have more crud than the first with EITHER methoed. what youll find is that oil that sits awhile and cools allows some crud to settle out to the oil pan floor, crud that gets put back into suspension when the engines been recently run, and before someone points out that the oil filter is supposed to trap and remove suspended crud, yes thats true, but oil filters rarely get 100% of the crud and the older the filter the more it gets restrictive to flow and the more likely its BYEPASSING a certain percentage of the oil flow untill the oil heats and looses some viscosity easily 10%-20% of your oil byepasses the stock filter if you rev the engine while its still cold

IF your going to use ARP main cap studs THE TORQUE SETTINGS ARE DIFFERANT than the orriginal BOLTS, the STUDS ARE STRONGER, BUT,you might also consider that main studs generally install after cleaning the threads in the block with a tap,blowing them dry with high pressure air, oiling the studs course threads with the thread sealant and fine threads end with the ARP thread lube, when you screw them into the block the full thread depth,by hand, then get backed out one turn, the main caps installed and the nuts torqued in stages to seat and hold the main caps, now LOOK at those STUDS the end in the block threads is SAE COURSE thread, the end your torqueing the nut on is SAE FINE THREAD with a much differant PITCH that requires less tq to give the same clamp loads http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/Catalog.html Why do they get backed out by one turn? I'm trying to think of the physics behind it, but I can't think of any good reason. What is the physics answer, Grumpy? the threads must bear evenly and align correctly with the studs centerline, for the stud to apply max loads over the total threaded surface ,the threaded section must be under tension alone and engage the total threaded surface in the block, if the stud is torqued into place, youve preloaded the threads bearing the load and they are partly under compressive loads ,your basically jacking the bottom of the threaded hole away from the threaded section, and appling THOUDANDS of lbs of extra stress to the blocks web area if you torque the threads to the same 100 ft lbs the original bolts were tightened to, the threads in the block will now have added stress once the full tension loads on the studs and main caps is applied by torqing the nuts on the studs ,theres added stress on the block, if the studs have bottomed out and are pushing on the bottom of the threaded hole making the block web area more likely to crack or the crank saddles to distort. keep in mind FACTORY BOLTS are made slightly shorter to PREVENT the bolt tip bottoming out in the hole, but bolts cause wear on the threads because they are tightened while the bolts still advancing deeper into the threaded block, studs cause far less wear because they fully engage the threads bearing the loads before the tensive load is applied heres what ARP says "STUDS vs. BOLTS ARP recommends the use of main studs over bolts whenever possible for several key reasons. First is the ability to obtain more accurate torque readings because studs don’t “twist” into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis. By the same token, there is less force exerted on the block threads, which contributes to improved block life (very critical on aluminum blocks). Finally, there are factors of easier engine assembly and proper alignment of caps every time" ARP's instructions (for head studs)state that you should thread the studs into the block until they're hand-tight, but with the head on the block, this is difficult. Fortunately, ARP was thoughtful enough to incorporate a fitting for an Allen wrench into the head of each stud. So, using an Allen wrench, I threaded the studs into the head until I could no longer turn the wrench with two fingers. This method seems to have worked nicely 1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in block to ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings. 2. All hardware (and caps) should be cleaned and inspected prior to installation, looking for any shipping damage or defects. 3. Screw studs into block, finger tight ONLY. For permanent installation, apply Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly to threads. Be sure and install the caps promptly before the cement sets to prevent misalignment of studs in block. 1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in block to ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings. 2. All hardware (and caps) should be cleaned and inspected prior to installation, looking for any shipping damage or defects. There are a number of important considerations when installing ARP main studs. 3. Screw studs into block, finger tight ONLY. For permanent installation, apply Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly to threads. Be sure and install the caps promptly before the cement sets to prevent misalignment of studs in block. First and foremost is making sure the block and studs are as clean as possible. Foreign matter and debris can easily affect the quality of thread engagement and cause erroneous torque readings. Do not re-cut threads in the block – use the special “chaser” taps as listed on page 87 of this catalog. This will preserve the integrity of the threads and provide better engagement. Calibrate your torque wrench – even new wrenches have been known to be off by as much as 10 foot pounds! Use consistent tightening techniques. 4. Install main caps, checking for binding and misalignment. Lubricate threads, nuts and washers with oil or ARP moly assembly lubricant before installation. Note that torque specs will vary by lubricant. Moly lube is most consistent. Have block align honed. 5. Using the instructions provided with the studs, tighten the nuts to proper torque values three times. NOTE: If using Loc-Tite or similar cement, proper preload must be achieved prior to it setting up. http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/FAQ.html I usually use this sealant (sparingly)on the course ends of main cap studs that screw in hand tight, and ESPECIALLY on head studs that enter water jackets http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/Permatex_Super_300_Form-A-Gasket_Sealant.htm keep in mind the course thread section is not being screwed in or the threads moved as the nut on the fine thread upper end is torqued to spec. and that thread requires the ARP thread lubricant to get the correct stretch and that stud needs to be cycled up to full torqure then released and retorqued,a minimum of three times to get the stretch/tq correct

IF your going to use ARP main cap studs THE TORQUE SETTINGS ARE DIFFERANT than the orriginal BOLTS, the STUDS ARE STRONGER, BUT,you might also consider that main studs generally install after cleaning the threads in the block with a tap,blowing them dry with high pressure air, oiling the studs fine threads with the ARP thread lube,the course threads with sealant,when you screw them into the block the full thread depth,by hand, then get backed out one turn, the main caps installed and the nuts torqued in stages to seat and hold the main caps, now LOOK at those STUDS the end in the block threads is SAE COURSE thread, the end your torqueing the nut on is SAE FINE THREAD with a much differant PITCH that requires less tq to give the same clamp loads http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/Catalog.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/FAQ.html

place a single rod/piston assembly with well oiled bearings and no rings installed on the first cylinders journal, and have the cam installed to check clearances ,now, rotate the crank thru a couple full rotations so the piston slides freely in the oiled bore, while you look closely at the rod too block clearance and rod too cam lobe clearance, if the cam lobes too close the edge of the rod bolt upper/edge of the bolt or rod itself needs to be filed/ground for clearance since you can,t grind the cam lobe, on the block the block gets clearanced ground, you want about a .060 minimum clearance. a large paper clip can be used as a crude feeler gauge, a 1/2" dia carbide cutting burr in a die grinder can do it in seconds,once thats done you move that piston & rod to the next cylinder and repeat 7 more times, etc. don,t forget to clean up afterwards, and DON,T forget the rodand piston has the exhaust/intake valve and rod bearing radius fit correctly in only one dirrection on that cylinder BEFORE AFTER Small Chevy Fastener Type Torque Spec 7/16 in. outer main cap bolt 65 ft.-lbs. 7/16 in. inner main cap bolt 70 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. outer main cap bolt 40 ft.-lbs. 11/32 in. connecting rod bolt 38-44 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 40-45 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts 65 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (cast iron heads) 30 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt 60-70 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts 18-20 ft.-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 60 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs. Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Exhaust manifold bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Big Chevy Fastener Type Torque Specs Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs. Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs. 7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/Flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs. Bell housing bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs. http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/128_9712_chevy_engine_specifications/photo_11.html