grumpyvette

IM AMAZED at times by the newer guys that don,t seem to think the info, tools and books are necessary and money well spent! NOTHING is more important to your success than knowing exactly why and how things work and what parts do and how they do it! it will give you a good grip on the basics and concepts YOULL NEED too sellect the correct parts, it will prevent you spending hundreds of dollars neadlerssly on parts you don,t need,and the video book shows you step by step how to dissassemble & assemble a sbc trust me YOU NEED to read the books and understand the concepts BEFORE buying parts and the $18 for any one book is well spent pocket change youll save many times over by not making mistakes BY KNOWING EXACTLY why and HOW things are done your choice depends on budget and goals???? http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=shopping_cart&number_of_uploads=0 http://www.dougherbert.com/ http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598_cylinder_head_flow_bench_database/index.html Id insist on finding a rotating assembly that was internally ballanced with ARP 7/16" rod bolts and good forged 5.7" or 6" rods with forged pistons, Id VASTLY prefer a forged crank, a 3.75" or 3.875" stroke and ID keep in mind that the heads will need to flow over 240cfm at .500 lift MINIMUM and the cam sellected will need to match both the drive train and compression ratio buy these, READ the books and watch the video. youll be FAR AHEAD, its a crash course in engines and will help you a great deal http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/motobooks_1955_93732534 HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b/103-3486570-0918205?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=SMOKEY+YUNICK%2CS+POWER+SECRETS&Go.x=9&Go.y=12

http://catalog.graybar.com/servlet/BugsEye graybar has 4 awg at $1.25 a foot for a single stranded welder cable (youll need three conductors to wire 220volt single phase)and its fully able to handle a 100-130 amp electrical feed too the welder (more than any 250-300 amp tig USUALLY requires) so 150 feet to give a 50 ft feed will be under $200 I used 2 awg but Ive always prefered a serious safety margin

price differance on a 100 amp male/female electric plug that I could use to plug in the tig welder was even more insane..I got a high near $700,for the matched pair.. a LOW at $60 and AVERAGE near $230 for both plugs keep in mind ALL rated at 100 amps 3 conductor.....and the crazy thing is that the $60 set was much better made and heavier with much larger brass contacts, and IT PAYS to SHOP around

THANKS FOR THE LINK! I ordered the cable ,it should be here tomorrow

how come its 180 degs out of phase? I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT

BTW, standard rubber fuel line and crimp hose fittings and adapters,at auto parts stores generally costs a good deal more each or per foot than a purchase of far better quality low pressure hydrolic hose of similar size when bought in bulk at hydralic supply houses and the hydrolic line generally has several layers, and is far stronger, looks better and is far less likely to leak or get cut accidently, youll need to shop carefully because some types are absurdly expensive but you can get bargins

Plague_oc buy these, youll be FAR AHEAD http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/motobooks_1955_93732534 HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b/103-3486570-0918205?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=SMOKEY+YUNICK%2CS+POWER+SECRETS&Go.x=9&Go.y=12

Lakewood bellhousing isabout $329. This one from Speedway is $249. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/545,36_Explosion-Proof-Chevy-Bellhousing-with-Plate.html#feedback "Lakewood Bellhousings have been tested and meet or exceed S.F.I. Spec. 6.1, when used with approved block plate. Lakewood Bellhousings are designed to contain a clutch or flywheel explosion, bellhousings include the block plate and are marked with an S.F.I. Spec. 6.1 serial number " and have a certification label that some tracks require I think thats a CHINESE COPY, I don,t see it advertised as MEETING the S.F.I. Spec 6.1 which MIGHT mean its not up to the strength, thickness or temper and heat treatment or same level of dimensional tollerance control, its obviously better than the stock aluminum but it might not be nearly as strong as the certified bell housing BTW http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_24568_-1 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D15000&N=700+4294822099+115&autoview=sku theres DOZENS of differant models , SIZES ETC. but LAKEWOODS about the best known brand and JEGS AND SUMMIT HAVE THEM

(3),(16),(18) all come close, yeah failure to do the research,FIRST,decide on a goal, set a goal , thats realistic with a budget and a time table you can expect to work with and staying on the plan is a comon problem

heres a few first timer mistakes I see ALL the time, IVE even made a few like them 35-40 years ago! (1) not supporting a car your working on correctly (2) relieing on guys you don,t really know well to assist you or give advice (3) buying stuff that looks "cool" but that won,t realistically work on your application (4) sellecting a cam for your car based on what worked in your buddies car by sellecting the next larger one from the catalog and expecting to kick his butt because of that cam choice with no knowledge of what REALLY matches your combo (5) buying an intake and carb combo bases almost 100% on a magazine test on a car with an engine that was not even close to your combo (6) renting tools when the rental cost quickly adds up to more than 1/2-7/8ths of what the tool COSTS NEW (7) not owning a decent welder and paying exorbidant prices for minor work you could do for next to zip with a welder (8) TRUSTING verbal instructions will be followed at machine shops (9) trusting ANYTHING a machine shop does without checking carefully (10) not getting detailed reciepts and pictures of all parts signed for and dated for parts left at machine shops. (11) not buying the correct part and trying to make do with something cheaper that you know is not fully adequate (12) believing most of whats in magazine engine build sheets is ACCTUALLY what went into the engine or resulted in the dyno results (13) getting in over your experiance level and not knowing enought to ask for help (14) not buying or renting the correct tool for the job " (15) failing to read and follow dirrections ,make the phone call,and ask the manufacturer questions and take the time to research the answers when youve obviously screwed up or reached a point where your not sure what your doing (16) not researching a realistic total budget before buying expensive parts on a project (17) not joining or forming a local hot rod club so resources and knowledge and parts and experiance and tools can be readily available to the group, and not jumping in to help the other guys every single chance you get (18) wasteing time and money on what you currently have VS working toward owning and building what you REALLY WANT, to own and drive

just info the tig unit I have is an industrial unit that weights over a 1000lbs with the argon tank, its an older unit made in the late 1980s but its a 330 amp tig. it came from a pro welding shop going out of business yeah its a p.i.t.a. to transport, but I welded up a cart with 10" roller swivel wheel so it moves in the shop

that depends almost entirely on if youll use a kit for the swap,for the mounts and factory available headers and exhaust or make your own, in the case of the z/sbc its done so often that most parts are available ready for use, but be aware that while you can do it that way and have excellent results there are options and advantages to going the custom made route. since this is your first attempt the kit route does hold a strong appeal in that your far less likely to screw up.

with a decent welder and some experiance and some skills you can make or modify headers exhaust systems engine mounts cross members suspensions trans mounts acessory brackets oil pans and if its on site the time and expence and constant check,measure,recheck, process is far faster and cheaper than out sourceing the procedures a good welder will pay for itself MANY MANY times over and over again, those $40 here and $100 there little mods ADD UP FAST, and are FREQUENTLY mandatory to getting the car built. besides, buy a welder like this http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312 after your done with the swap You COULD easily sell it for $500 or more, but ILL bet you won,t consider it unless UPGRADEING to a better one http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907046 at one of the corvette clubs, they had 4 guys all chip in $500 each and buy this http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=903868 FOR THIER EXCLUESIVE USE,with the understanding that any of them can ask out of the deal to use and partly own the welder and get $100 EACH from the other 3 guys at any time , so the most they could be out was $200, NO ONES WANTED OUT IN THREE YEARS YET! ITS MORE THAN PAID FOR ITSELF IN CUSTOM EXHAUST SYSTEMS & OIL PANS ALONE

a few basics to get you started http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0703_small_block_chevy_engine_upgrades/ http://www.hotrod.com/tipstricks/44761/ http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9804_cam_shaft_tech/ http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D10067353&autoview=sku

ID STRONGLY advise making the contacts, lineing up a few experianced friends and doing the research, (preferably guys who have done a few engine swaps) and collecting the tools and parts BEFORE starting the project, some type of engine crane and welder are almost mandatory, KNOWING WHATS ENVOLVED and having a plan and a check list and the knowledge is mandatory, Ive done many dozens of engine swaps over the last 35 plus years, BUT! ID no more start that project without a welder, a manual or at least a good check list and a firm goal and a reasonable budget and expected time frame for its completion, than ID expect to do heart surgery on myself!! BTW the more contacts you make and the more clubs you join , the greater the chances youll find helpful & experianced members with tools like welders and lifts/cranes that may help with your project if YOU SHOW a willingness to HELP THEM with THIER PROJECTS, (and youll learn a good deal along the way)

youll need a minimum of a good welder and an ENGINE CRANE, and the JTR MANUAL, and this site to answer questions, but do the research and make the contacts, join the local club and make the contacts before starting or youll be wasting a great deal of time and money http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43550 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35915 http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/19889.htm http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html buy these also http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

the problem is its a very time intensive job and your bound to have some custom features and options, and mechanics tend to charge by the HOUR , I think youll be far better off , taking the time and effort to buy the books, ask LOTS of questions and LEARN how everything works then AFTER joining a LOCAL hotrod or CORVETTE CLUB and making a few friends, who can instruct you and help with the project, especially guys with both extensive experiance and tools like WELDERS AND LIFTS, ENGINE CRANES, ETC. you can ATTEMPT to do the majority of the work and planing and accumulation of the parts yourself to significantly reduce the cost! plus if the car breaks down, its almost mandatory that you know a minimum of what it takes to diagnose and repair the car. look 90% plus of the satisfaction & pleasure youll have is in building and getting the car EXACTLY HOW YOU WANT IT, and knowing YOU built it to match your expectations, if your not willing to do that, then buy a factory hotrod and have the dealer do all the work, at least then you have a warranty and ALL the dealers can work on the car youll spend less and have a more rewarding experiance with a new mustang or corvette than you will on having a mechanic do a first class job useing first class parts on an old datsun, if your paying by the hour to do the conversion.

I need suggestions on where to get/purchase, some FLEXABLE 3 conductor 2awg copper cable about 50ft long to wire up a new welder at a decent price. my local electical supply is on serious drugs as far as prices go...look I know the stuffs expensive but youll never believe what they quoted me, over $1000 for just the cable, plug and socket, and keep in mind thats without mounting boxes,breakers or conduit or instalation. I can easily do all the work, but they are on drugs if they think a plug and 50ft of cable to hook up a welders worth over $1000 specs call for 100 amp 3 conductor 2 AWG copper and I always match ideal or exceed minimum alowable specs Ive never felt its a good idea to scimp on electrical as I don,t need problems or potential fire hazzards in the shop. yes Im well aware the welder will pull far less than the full 100 amp draw 99.99% OF THE TIME BUT IM NOT WILLING TO take any chances its a 330 amp TIG welder

I have a smoked clear roof removeable roof panel , unfortunately the damn things cracked, and will need replacement

yeah its an 85, thats my TOY, the 1996 in the fore ground is daily transportation.

I watched your video, CONGRATS.....YEAH, been there and know the feeling well! btw couldn,t help but notice you appear to be and older geezer like ME! (59) its nice to see that all the younger college age kids on the site are not the only ones posting

http://www.aclifts.com/parking/pss-7.asp

too bad its not in south fla. ID buy it in under 5 minutes once I verified the rear suspension and diff were in great shape

For those who do not receive HotRod magazine, here is a summary of an interesting article about tweaking GM's HT383 crate motor. Some of this may be useful reference material for forum members who are trying to decide on their upcoming engine combinations. Advertised specs: 325 hp @ 4,500 415 lb-ft @ 3,500 "medium-rise GM dual-plane intake with EGR provisions" Vortec heads 4-bolt mains Hypereutectic pistons (9.1:1 compression) Hydraulic roller cam. 196/207 duration @ .050 with .431/.451 lift. Forged crank w/ 3.800" stroke. Std 4.00" bore. Step 1 Initial Combination tested 338 hp @ 4,400 & 444 lb-ft @ 3,400 Headman Tork-Step Headers Petronix Flame-Thrower HEI Speed Demon Carb (625 cfm Road Demon) w/ jets at 70/76 Timing set to 34 degrees Step 2 1.6:1 Roller Rockers 355 hp @ 4,700 & 452 lb-ft @ 3,500 Adding a set of Comp Cams Pro magnum 1.6:1 rollers gained 17 hp and 8.2 lb-ft at peak and didn't lose power anywhere in the curve. Step 3 RPM Air Gap Intake 370 hp @ 4,600 & 466 lb-ft @ 3,700 Gained 15 hp and 14 lb-ft. Step 4 Demon 750 Carb 379 hp @ 4,600 & 474 lb-ft @ 3,700 81/88 jetting. Gained 9.4 hp and 7.7 lb-ft. Step 5 Bigger Cam and thinner head gaskets 455 hp @ 5,600 & 493 lb-ft @ 4,200 Comp Cams XE282HR 230/236 duration @ .050 and .510/.520 (.544/,555 w/ 1.6:1 rockers) w/ 110 lobe separation angle. (The Vortec heads required valve guide modification for this swap due to lift) Swapping to thinner steel shim head gaskets bumped the compression ratio to 9.6:1. The larger cam gave up as much as 25 lb-ft of torque at every data point below 3,600 rpm. Also it formerly idled at 650 rpm and 19 inches of vacuum the new cam idled at 950 rpm and 12 inches of vacuum Gained 76 hp and 19 lb-ft. Step 6 Slippery Oil 463 hp @ 5,600 & 502 lb-ft @ 4,200 Changed from 10W30 dinosaur oil to Royal Purple's 5W30 street oil. Gained 7 hp and 10 lb-ft. They were so impressed with this oil that they're planning a full chassis-dyno test of Royal Purple products for the engine, trans, rearend, and wheel bearings. (you might want to be reminded that 9.6:1 cpr they were forced to work with if far from ideal and that cam is not a good match, to that low cpr, youll need to run about 10.5:1 cpr and change the rear gearing and stall speed to take advantage of the cams characteristics and basic rpm band....you can,t expect to get ideal results if all the components dont run in the intended rpm and cpr they were designed for)

THANK YOU ,I MIGHT need , and DO, appreciate that offer!