grumpyvette

Im not yelling trust me! I never yell, my 25 and 33 year old kids will tell you, that, yeah I get grumpy, but I don,t yell, I tend to talk slowly and clearly when Im making a point, but I don,t yell.....my kids know its time to take a break or disappear at times but they,ve very rarely heard me raise my voice for any reason, the typing of capitals is only meant for clearity and to make a point

"Why is the first one worthless?" LOOK CLOSELY, the top primer has no collar to keep the drive shaft centered over the pump so it can slightly mis-align and bind, Ive seen them bend the pump drive if guys get them mis-aligned and just throw a high torque 1/2 drill on and spin them without checking, the lower primer has an alignment collar that tends to keep things from breaking,,yes both have the alignment collar for the manifold but only the botom one has the lower block support and alignment sleeve that forms the lower oil passage wall, and the drive collar that assure the oil pump drive itself is lined up correctly,keep in mind,the bottom of the stock distributor forms one wall of the main oil passage to one side of the engine, without that passage wall in place you get no oil pressure to one side and darn little to the other due to the HUGE leak the missing oil passage wall presents, the lower distrib is temporarily replaced with that extra aluminum on the lower primer to simulate the correct oil passage config....THATS WHY!

this type above is nearly WORTHLESS this type bellow works just fine http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66896&autoview=sku they are dirt cheap or you can make one from and old distributor be sure you turn the engine over at least two full turns while applying pressure to and lubing the oil passages to get full access to all the lifters,rockers,bearings etc.

read these http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.2quicknovas.com/happytiming.html http://www.fourwheeler.com/howto/67578/ http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/driv...timing101s.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/choosing_the_right_connecting_rods/ http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles.php http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/timing.html http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/hi_po_chev.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/building_a_cylinder_block/ http://www.wickedpontiacs.8m.com/tips.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/32458_build_your_first_engine/ http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blkdiy.aspx http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298_camshaft_lobe_phasing/ http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html http://www.thedirtforum.com/degree.htm http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html

WELL, IT ,looks like its spoken for..... sorry if you waited too long

as a general rule a 383 sbc makes approximately 10% more torque than a similarly built 350, figure at about 40 ft lbs minimum gained on anything even close to a decent performance combo

I picked up a 230 amp CRAFTSMAN stick welder at a local yard sale that some gal said her X-hubby left when he left her, now she sold it to me for $30 and it came WITHOUT the cables but at that price its worth the risk, but Ive already got 4 good welders in the shop so anyone wants it for the $30 come get it! local pick up, it weights more than ID care to pick up (100 plus lbs) so obviously Im NOT shipping it

Ive got mostly dewalt stuff, it usually works near flawlessly,and lasts for years... but what $%^& me off is that to get the tools rebuilt to factory spec at the authourized dealer repair centers.. when they do break, they generally charge 40%-55% of what the new one costs, reguardless of whats wrong, a trigger switch, motor or chuck, arbor, or wiring, it doesn,t matter the charges are the same, they say we replace anything thats a wear part or any that appear broken regaurdless of whats malfunctioning

buy these three books FIRST Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines get this software http://www.compperformancegroupstores.co...;Category_Code= cam sellection software http://www.virtualengine2000.com/DynoOverview.htm virtual dyno software http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html how to asemble an engine basics on video three of the less expensive CDs that are well worth getting, ESPECIALLY the last two! they can easily save a new guy to the hobby a great deal of time and money and screw ups matching parts the top one is a cam sellection program, I have got to say that its a good starting point and seldom makes bad suggestions, take the durration and lift and LCA info and buy the cam for your combo from YOUR FAVORITE MANUFACTURER AFTER TALKING TO THEM ABOUT YOUR COMBO...but the software prediction gets you into the ballpark, and if yout thinking youll be useing a siggnificantly wilder cam your probably looking to screw up! for the more advanced guys http://www.proracingsim.com/dynomationmainpage.htm http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm tools/info to help build a successful car http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/ http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm http://www.speedtalk.com/reher_morrison_books.html http://www.auto-ware.com/software/asgp/asgp.htm http://www.auto-ware.com/software/rsg/rsg.htm http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/designsoftware.html http://racetechprograms.com/jerrybickelschoolentr y... http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi http://pipemastertools.com/store/page1.html http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/ tig201...

"The specs your giving above are they from the red vette in the video? " Im not doing a thing but posting a QUOTE thats the specs the owner of that red corvette states are what went into the engine build.

I ran accrossed this on a differant site,FROM GBAK,thought it might intersest some of you gentelmen http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h64/malarn59/Video/?action=view&current=GBAK.flv whats in it??(its a 383) "Block: 010 , +.060", decked to 9.015" Heads: Trick Flow 64cc/195 cc #TFS-30400003-CNC Headgasket: Mr Gasket 0.028 (quench dist 0.043") #MRG-1134 Pistons: Probe SRS 11.3 comp, forged for 6" rod, #12337-060 Rings: Perfect Circle plasma/moly #315-0033.065 Rods: Manley streetmaster 6" forged (weight matched to pistons) Crank: Eagle ESP cast int balanced (rebalanced) #103503750I Camshaft: CC Advertised Duration 280/ 286, Lift .570/ .576 #CCA-12-771-8 http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-771-8 Manifold: Performance Products Typhoon (same as RPM, but will fit under my hood, matchported) #52020 Carb: Holley 650 dp with milled choke horn, #HLY-0-4777C Lifters: CC Super roller #CCA-818-16 Roller rockers: Crane #CRN-11745-16 Push rods: CC Hi-Tech length 7.700" #CCA-7963-15 Timing kit: Cloyes Hex-A-Just #CLO-9-3100A And a looooot of work....... Most of the # are from Summit. Have I forgot something.........? No dyno no / ET's. Just calculed the hp/torque with Desktop Dyno.(500hp/550 tq) I will take it to the track later this summer. ET will not be to good, as I don't have the grip, just spinning and spinning and...... " I can tell you that a CROWER 00471 would probably produce MORE mid and lower RPM tq but give up a few peak hp

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/92966/ read thru these (above) as to your compression ratio, you need to figure that with the components youll use, keep in mind most decks are about .023 over stock minimum deck and youll want a .038-.043 quench so youll want a .015-.021 thick head gasket

Ive built BOTH 6" and 5.7" 383 engines many times, the differance in power might be 3-5 hp and a few hundred rpm differance in the torque peak at MAX LOOK over this chart carefully http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf the 5.7" rods that DON,t have the pin intersect the oil ring are more stabile, the 6" rod combos are slightly lighter in weight and have a slightly better rod angle, not much gained either way read http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/Luke-schreier/unzip/Tension%20and%20Compression%20in%20Connecting%20Rods%20VI.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/choosing_the_right_connecting_rods/ http://www.me.metu.edu.tr/me426/notes/Conrod/sld001.htm

TFS-30400013 ID ask them a few questions first but the 72cc combustion chamber head looks good, but ask questions before spending your cash as to what 72cc head and spring combo works with flat tappet hydrolic lifters the 6" rods are fine but don,t overlook the 5.7 the differance is very minor, the main thing you want is an INTERNALLY ballanced assembly with 7/16" ARP rod bolts if you can get it!

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_99_147&products_id=547 $999 http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_99_147&products_id=547 read thru http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/383ci_chevy_small_block_build/index.html http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_mustang_head_swap/index1.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/97538_small_block_cylinder_heads_basics/index.html notice the better combos ALL require decent heads http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm 49CC combustion chambers???? the first heads you sellected had 72cc chambers, on a stroker kit you listed with the 5cc flat top pistons that kit has , that will give a 13.4:1 cpr with the correct quench in the .042 range with a .o21 thick head gasket on most blocks, it will NEVER run on pump gas without detonation problems, go to a rediculus .040 thick head gasket and it will still detonate at 12.7:1 cpr but with no quench it will be just as bad at that lower cpr

if you do only one mod GET THE BETTER HEADS and youll NEVER BE SORRY keep in mind the reason those IRON EAGLE heads are on sale is they are being phased out as the newer PLATINUM IRON EAGLE DART HEADS replaced that design AND the 230cc size is a slow mover, in that only a really radical race motor can effectively use that port cross sectional area and only at high rpms and large displacements, below about 5000rpm on a 350-383 they will generally be less efficient than a 190cc-215cc port

"What cam would you recommend?" the cams a TOTAL mismatch, to the heads as mentioned, what transmission , stall speed?and rear gear ratio does the car have? those heads will work great with a reasonably wild cam PROVIDED the other components match but youll be far better off with these heads and this cam http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php yes IM well aware the aluminum AFR heads cost aprox $1450 but they will MAKE a HUGE DIFFERANCE in the performance http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=1969&Engine_Size=262-400%20C.I.&partNumber=110591&partType=camshaft matched to a manual trans or auto with a 3000rpm stall converter and 4.11 rear gears, especially if its an overdrive trans like a 200R or 4L80E

yeah but do they or anyone else make a similar big block chevy engine rectangle port head version?????

$3300 is AVERAGE ,and that doesn,t include injectors or CPU THE BEST KINSLER system will cost closer too $10,000 HILBORN about $5000 If you want cheap...holley goes for between $1500-$2000

http://www.katicore.com.au/default_files/Page1477.htm http://www.katicore.com.au/default_files/Page1597.htm CROSSRAM or standard IDIVIDUAL RUNNER EFI for SBC....I wonder if a holley EFI controller will work with it? comes with NO injectors or CPU but compared to a HILBORN EFI..... like this its similar once its up and running http://www.hilborninjection.com/product.asp?Id=52&CatId=37 or KINSLER http://www.kinsler.com/newproducts.htm first http://www.firstfuelinjection.com/products.htm HOLLEY http://www.holley.com/types/Stealth%20Ram%20Multi-Point%20Systems%20-%20Complete.asp http://www.holley.com/types/Chevrolet%20Small%20Block%20Commander%20950%20MPFI%20Systems. http://www.force-efi.com/price.htm

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58964 http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93124 read thru these..........btw youve got a private message

Id skip the gapless rings I don,t feel the gains are worth the added expence, Im currently running thier gapless second rings in my 383 and the gains are minimal from the standard moly rings they replaced on my last rebuild, a good quality ring of standard design, and gapped correctly in a properly honed cylinder, cost less than 1/2 the cost and does the job about 98% as well, the total seal rings are better but not enought better to justify the cost increase unless your determined to get every available hp, frankly Id spend the cash elseware in the engine and gain more power or relieability

sure, anything Ive posted is free to use,but keep in mind its CHEVY V8 RELATED,

Why you don,t use the stock nylon coated aluminum gears on a high performance engine build BTW, if your still not convinced, think about WHERE all those little pieces of nylon go and what they do,if your clueless...they tend to block or restrict the oil flow into the oil pump pick-up and get ground up and forced into the oil passages by the pump gears The CLOYES true roller style is vastly superior how come its 180 degs out of phase? I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT