grumpyvette

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm read thru this again

"How much performance would you have to give up when building with old heads on the new block in order for the replacement heads to fit properly? Maybe a real simple example?" Ok thats easy STEP ONE the first 383 I built for my current 1985 corvette went from the stock 350s 240 rear wheel hp is based on a flat top piston and these heads with this cam, (below) and a very extensively ported stock TPI intake and plenum plus headers http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114132&lvl=2&prt=5 to 317 rear wheel hp with the mildly ported stock heads and flat top pistons THATS 77 hp for cam , mild port work increased displacement, headers and a mild cam. STEP TWO as soon as the budget allowed I installed heads similar too these heads http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trick-Flow-twisted-wedge-G2-heads-Intake-and-hardware_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33617QQihZ017QQitemZ270117925320QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/trick_flow_twisted_wedge_head_dyno_test/ but extensively ported that flowed 248cfm at .400 lift and 262cfm at .500 lift and extensively ported the stock plenum, then added larger aftermarket runners on that same 383 short block, hp jumped to 380rwh THATS 63 MORE HP FOR MUCH IMPROVED HEADS, and a better intake so the increased displacement and heads worked well together STEP THREE I then swapped to 11:1 pistons and this cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 and an extensively ported stealth ram intake results were 440 rear wheel hp (yes I was forced to install a 3000rpm stall converter and 3.73:1 rear gear and trans cooler to run the new parts at this point) THATS 60 HP MORE fore a MUCH BETTER INTAKE, CAM and HIGHER CPR I then added a 250hp nitrous system jetted for 200 hp and started twisting off drive train and transmission parts so fast I have not got it re-dynoed yet more interesting stuff to read thru a differant guy posted info source http://www.ws6.com/mycar.htm http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0307htp_hollley_stealthram_intake_third_gen_iroc/ http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html'>http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/

I get asked this frequently. the question usually goes something like " look Ive got a VERY LIMITED budget, which should I go for, great heads or a good large displacement short block, IVE only got $1500, or $2000, or $4000 to work with??" first ID point out its foolish to buy parts you won,t want in the finnished engine, and thinking thru the progression and steps will help make sure your not stuck with a non-running car for weeks or months at a time! well having been this route a few dozen times (personally) and many more on other guys engine combos... Id put my two cents worth in, OBVIOUSLY youll need BOTH to maximize any combos potential, and it depends a great deal on how large a displacement increase over stock your thinking about, now if your only going from a 350 to a 383, the heads will obviously be a good value,as better heads and a matched cam can boost the hp noticably,but if your seriously building to maximize the torque and hp in the complete project and your eventually going to build the engine to maximize the power.. and if your thinking about a serious upgrade in displacement , say from a 327, to a 427 in a sbc or a 396 to a 496-632 in a bbc,... I ALWAYS suggest going for the large displacement short block thats well put together FIRST. youll never make killer hp without the good heads but you can use stock heads on a well built short block to make killer low rpm tq UNTILL you can budget and save for the heads you want, ESPECIALLY on a BBC combo as the heads, even the peanut port door stop design heads, flow more than the VORTEC sbc heads ,now of course theres the potential problem of differant clearances, and compression ratios with differant pistons and combustion chambers, but if it will fit and fuction ID go FIRST for the displacement an have a driveable car with the old heads while saving for the better ones. YOULL NEED TO THINK EACH STEP THRU CAREFULLY. example lets assume youve got a 350 hp 396 in your 66 chevelle, nova or camaro, and want a killer combo. youve saved up $3000-$4000 and its burning a hole in your pocket, now you can buy a 496 short block or killer heads and a cam, and theres little doubt that the killer heads and cam sellected correctly will make more power than your old heads and cam on the new 496 short block...but think it thru THEN WHAT? in a few months or years as your budget allows, youll want to upgrade, if the heads and cam were sellected for the 396 its not likely that they are near ideal on a 496 with its greater displacement and lower average rpm range.. if you sellected the short block first, the heads and cam can now be sellected to match. NEXT its simply faster and easier too swap heads on a good short block than it is to swap short blocks out at a latter date when the funds and parts become available keep in mind the displacement and compression dictate to a large degree the torque, while the cam timing and heads flow rates effect the rpm range and peak power potential that displacement can reasonably achieve on a limited budget. http://maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

your choice will depend on which goal is more important to YOU, if it was MY car Id think about installing this cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 its a good power cam, (Im running it in my vette) the cam you sellected will be better for a daily driver but it will leave a good deal of power on the table

"64cc chambers produce 10.2:1 compression with flat-top pistons in 350-inch engines " http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/heads/chevrolet_sb_rpm.shtml I don,t know which transmission or,stall speed or rear gear ratio youll be useing but that cam MIGHT BE slightly MILDER than ideal.(can,t judge untill I know the rest of the info)

the stock pan WILL usually clear but in most cases a few wacks with ball peen hammer on the inside rail corners opposite the rods outter edge are usually required to gain a few thousands IF necessary. BUT bif your going to buy a new pan Id suggest these, yes it might require a few wacks with some rods but its dirt cheap and well built http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=7101R&line=WYS slightly more expenjsive http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM OLD POST BELOW "should I run a couple quarts low on oil to lower windage losses?" "will a high volume pump pump the pan dry?" I love this #$%%^ .....you can,t have it both ways, THINK IT THRU..on one side we have the guys that say run less than 7 qts in an 8 qt oil pan and the next thing you read is some guy who states that the oil pumps pumping the pan dry and sucking air because all the oils been pumped into the heads and lifter gallery.....YOU CAN,T HAVE IT BOTH WAYS, the truth is that about 2-3 qts are in the upper engine under high rpms (depends on the parts used) and that you NEED about 3 qts MINIMUM in the sump to keep the pick-up covered under hard accelleration or decelleration,.....to prevent the pump sucking air. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MIL%2D32250&autoview=sku http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM if theres 2-3 qts in the upper engine ITS NOT in the sump and won,t be causeing windage problems IN A CORRECTLY DESIGNED SYSTEM, at high rpms, because the sumps now got 2-3 qts LESS than at idle. Its not the amount of oil its how well you control that oil that matters as long as there ENOUGHT OIL. I run a 10 qt custom built oil pan, but I also have a oil cooler remotely mounted and a larger than standard oil filter, I run 10 qts but that effectively leaves about 8 qts in the oil pan BEFORE I rev the engine and about 6 qts in the sump at high rpms(well under the windage screen) the milodon windage screen and crank scraper is a whole lot more effective at returning the oil pushed by the crank back into the sump (the real reason a windage screen is prefered over the less effective windage tray,than the stock windage tray thats only function is to limit the amount of oil beaten to a froth by the spinning crank assembly. theres no question that the milodon windage screen is superior in design heres a cost effective pan that fits some cars http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM you might want to think of it this way... one-two quarts too much and youll run the risk of lost power due too windage,losses,lack of oil control and burning excess oil past the rings, one or two quarts too low and you might burn bearings,overheated valve springs, and a wiped cam.....personally Id rather build the oil control system to correctly handle the oil flow and oil return ,keep a very close watch on the oil level and if I must screw it up ID rather be a 1/2 qt higher than lower....add a windage screen and a well designed baffeled oil pan and if you choose too run a qt low, but don,t get crazy, remember most of those guys that are racing with 2-3 qts low in the oil pan want to get every last hp they can and pull the engines for detailed inspection and parts replacement at least once a season and DON,T RUN ON THE STREET or depend on the car for transportation, IN A CORRECTLY DESIGNED SYSTEM,much but not all of the oil flow back to the sump is routed to the rear/front drains and mostly avoids the spinning crank in route to the sump Bearings and oil flow http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html http://data.melling.com/Select/small_block_chevy.php http://data.melling.com/Select/big_block_chevy.php http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/crankinstall.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://data.melling.com/TECH.php http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb110127.htm http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

THANK YOU! thats HELPFUL and a good place to start!

WHERE can I buy parts like the swivel for seats and plans for BAR STOOLS, I built a work bench in my new garage and want to use a few chairs resembling bar stools,the first problem is they should be about 40" seat height and VERY strong, but after pricing them at about a dozen places its glareingly obvious that most are either vastly over priced or constructed like junk. so it would appear I need to build my own, as 40" seat height is not standard, now I can work in wood or steel and can weld so I have options here, but a SOURCE FOR PLANS and the swivel seat bases would be nice EXAMPLE IM open to all options, and surely not limited to this style

LOVE the ENGINEERING, but its OBVIOUS useful input of some taste in design phase was far from a serious concern on some of those cars

while theres a great deal to be learned in doing everything yourself and in MANY cases youll get closer to your ideal combo, its been rare to not find youve saved time and a good deal of money buying a 1/2 completed project from someone who gave up early due to money,time, or lifestyle changes like divorces and job changes. Ive gotten some KILLER DEALS over the years when I just happened to have a few hundred or in some cases a few thousand dollars and some guy got into finacial difficulties, and dumped a project for dimes on the dollar....naturally you NEED to fully understand WHAT your looking at and WHAT its worth TO YOU. youll also need to know what parts are easily sold off at a reasonable projected proffit. just because its a killer deal doesn,t always mean you should jump into the deal. example, Ive purchased several BBC engines in various conditions for between $70-$500 that were worth 2-10 times that EASILY in parts alone. I purchased a nice clean 1970 camaro with a disassembled 454 hipo LS7 in the trunk once for $1600 when I had a friend get divorced, and he wanted out of the marraige and out of state in record time (BTW I offered MORE but had only that in cash)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79628&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79055&N=700+115&autoview=sku Ive found these , or similar sets of TAYLOR 10.4mm matching YOUR application (TAYLOR 10.4mm ) to be the best Ive ever used I had several intermitent computer problems with other wires that were not shielded as well, that caused my EFI controller to get bad data at times from EMD (electric/magnetic field interfearance) ask about the ends and verify before purchase, most big blocks require strait 180 degree or 135 degree plug boots, the 90 degree plug boots most SBC s use won,t work well! BTW IVE had the same set on my race vette for more than 7 years now and they still look like new and work with low resistance, I doubt they would be necessary on a stock ignition, but the vettes hardly stock and the ignition will get your full attention if you pull a plug while its idling if your grounded

the shows BORING! who wants to see a bunch of guys who obviously are lieing, sandbagging SOBs argue over whos cheating less, and who should give who a head start, or compensate for the other cars faults, betting your CAR on a race is STUPID! when you KNOW the other guys lieing about his capabilities. loosing a bunch of cash is bad enought!, but NOT your CAR! they need to have a KNOWN RISK and REWARD structure, and make CHEATING/SANDBAGGING far more difficult! FIRST there should be no ELECTRONICS, TRANS BRAKES,ETC. JUST drivers and cars matching HP and SKILLS DRIVING. they should have each car, put up either a PREVIOUSLY AGREED UPON sum of $3000,(0ver 12 seconds)$5000,(over 10 seconds) or $10,000 EACH (under 10 seconds) ,then run against thier PREVIOUSLY AGREED UPON ,DIALED IN E.T., if your faster by more than a tenth second, you LOOSE! that one race, the winner of best 3 out of 5 runs gets the $6000, $10,000, or $20,000, PREVIOUSLY AGREED UPON , so your risking a PREVIOUSLY AGREED UPON SUM and your FORCED to run against a known ,PREVIOUSLY stated cars potential

I got an E-mail asking how I managed to get the cars/garage, if Im on a budget, well its been a 35 year PLUS goal Ive worked at!, I bought the land when I was 18 years old (41 years ago) and it was a HUGE burden finacially, for several years,but a necessary step in my goal to retire with a decent shop to work on corvettes.... I plan and (DREAM)both (long and short term goals) but the SECRET too ACTUALLY ACHIEVING those goals is to write out a very detailed STEP BYE STEP PLAN detailing whats required to reach those goals...... example if your goal is to install a big block 600hp engine in a 1996 corvette, thats fine....but you need to both make a list of the parts, thier price, the suppliers that have them ,youll need to aquire the skills necessary or line up someone with those skills on your calender and work them into your budget,then, locate the car, make the purchase, and budget all the costs, youll need a place to work, a time table, schedual,a budget that includes so slack for the obvious screw-ups and unforseen , and a calender with each step listed and the finances secured, if you won,t do that and stick to the plan, its a #$%^& day dream, not a realistic GOAL. you should have BOTH a REALISTIC time frame (schedual) and BUDGET, and KNOW exactly when and where EACH component will be available and reached and a check off each step, and NOT think ...SOME DAY, or WHEN I GET SPARE CASH....THAT WILL NEVER HAPPEN, SOMETHING ALWAYS COMES UP!, if you can only afford $50 a month toward your goal, thats fine, it will take longer than a guy who can access $250, but youll BOTH reach the goal, IF and ONLY IF you stick to the detailed plan with the list and budget! spending time and money on other projects will slow or defeat your main goals, DON,T get side tracked, accomplish your MAIN goals, then add new ones but don,t get stupid and un-realistic, if your not willing to schedual, budget and work toward the realization of your goals they are ..DAY DREAMS at best..........the old sayings true... EITHER PLAN OR PLAN TOO FAIL

first welcome to the site! buying a complete converted car is almost always a cheaper route, carefully inspect for rust, and drive the car if you can for at least a few miles, but at least inspect it carefully, and get IN WRITEING a list of components,if you can. so you understand what your getting for the price, and don,t assume your being told the truth on engine parts you can,t easily confirm visually, I.E. buy the car ASSUMING youll NEED to replace the whole drive train at some point and factor that into the deals price, that way your more likely to be in for less of a shock if your engine turns out to be less than advertised

looks like a BAD ACCIDENT , THATS JUST LOOKING FOR A PRIME LOCATION TOO OCCURE TO ME!

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=piston_comp look at and use this calculator (above)carefully if you have a 3.48" stroke like a stock 350 chevy and a stock 350s 5.7" rod and a 9" deck Piston Compression Height 01.560" if you have a 3.75" stroke like a 383 chevy and a stock 350s 5.7" rods and a 9" deck Piston Compression Height 01.425" keep in mind the engines STROKE is the distance the piston travels from TDC (top dead center)(roughtly even with deck height)to BDC (bottom dead center),(as far down as the piston ngoes in the cylinder) the rod length is NOT critical in finding the stroke,the stroke,remains constant, the rod angle and rod to stroke ratio will vary, the rate of accelleration will vary but the total distance the piston travels in one revolution remains the same. http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=step3&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=383 6.0" rods http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=383&RodLen=6 5.7" rods http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=383&RodLen=5.7 5.565" rods http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=383&RodLen=5.565

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=piston_comp the PIN location in the PISTON, VARIES with the stroke and rod length the rods can be 5.7" or 6" but the piston pin height needs to match, if you use 5.55 rods from a 400 sbc you COULD use the 350 rods BUT youll need to reballance in ANY CASE, and may need a differant harmonic ballancer and flywheel read thru this http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/48499_cheap_horsepower_engine_build/index.html http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-1989283802 http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article118/A-P1.htm http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article088/A-P1.htm http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article073/A-P1.htm http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hdrp_0504_454_crate_engine_nitrous_test/

http://www.webwombat.com.au/motoring/news_reports/weineck-cobra-780cui.htm

if you have the room and desire to run a big block ID point out that both the power and the price goes up but the strength of the components in the BBC is significantly greater at least if the correct components are used,that extra 100 LBS is all in EXTRA STEEL , BIGGER VALVES and LARGER PORTS AND stronger rotating COMPONENTS

read thru this, http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ it covers most areas of concern at least briefly

"are they difficult to wire, and plumb?" no,NOT really more good info http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/nitrous-tech.htm

you DON,T NEED OR WANT turbos or a supercharger, its adds a great deal to the cost and you only need the increased hp on tap occasionally. what you NEED is a correctly assembled combo of engine and gearing trans and suspension,that takes full advantage of a nitrous kit WHEN you need it, but runs reasonably well WITHOUT the nitrous in use for the 95%-98%% of the time that you really have no use for max power. ITS NEVER CHEAP, but you CAN EASILY KICK BUTT! and exceed 600-700hp PLUS for under $8000 most guys DON,T think thru thier combos and as a result they have a mixed bag of parts that are seldom designed to work effectively together EXAMPLE, but surely NOT the only route buy a 404 short block http://www.ohiocrank.com/sbc_short.html HEADS http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_131984_-1 cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119651&lvl=2&prt=5 nitrous http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02101NOS&N=700+400047+4294871048+115&autoview=sku the KEY is matching the engine components to the drive train and suspension/trans, with an auto that would be about a 3500rpm stall and 4.56 rear gears and the largest slicks you can stuff in a tubbed rear

after getting the ignition sorted out and timed correctly ,check for vacume leaks, carb adjustment, fuel pressure issues, and valve adjustment, those areas can easily cause the symtoms you list

generally ANY welder for under $300 is going to be highly suspect if quality welds are required , especially a MIG or TIG unit, look, reading material http://millerwelds.com/education/TIGhandbook/ http://millerwelds.com/products/tig/ place to ask questions http://www.weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=10757 products http://millerwelds.com/products/tig/econotig/ http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WD&Category_Code=TW http://www.htpweld.com/ http://store.cyberweld.com/millerwelders.html http://www.weldingdirect.com/tig252helsys.html you get what you pay for and $300 won,t buy anything youll be happy with