grumpyvette

remember this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122643 well I got off my old retired butt and did the phone calls, necessary too everyone I know and found a very similar deal and purchased it.(always wanted a decent 300 amp TIG) and after watching the previous owner weld a small aluminum bracket just to be sure it functioned at least some what,and at a very good price ,very similar miller 330 amp tig above but with water cooled torch,extra tips ETC. but I want to have one of the three,the local MILLER WELDING shops in the area/suppler guys check it out and adjust it before I start playing with it. my question, is whats the average cost for a shop to send a guy out on premiss for an inspection, and if I need any major parts/components, wheres the best place to get them at a good price __________________

"But what is the application for an Infrared Thermometer that goes to 1850F ?" its a quick way to isolate cylinders that are not firing or cylinders running LEAN, clinders that misfire tend to run cooler, cylinders that run lean tend to run hotter, and all your cylinders should run reasonably similar temps, generally youll be looking for header temps between 1000F and 1200F anything way outside that temp range tends to point to a problem

Id start by checking for vacuum leaks and verifying the timing curve Id start by dropping or raiseing the fuel pressure to 5.5 lbs and verifying your getting a minimum of a 1/2 gallon a minute unrestricted flow Id start at all four jets #70 Id install a NEW power valve and ID buy several,if your carb uses them, so I could play/exchange/test start here, theres no sence in guessing http://www.themotorbookstore.com/holley-carburetors.html http://www.themotorbookstore.com/motuhocavo2.html http://www.themotorbookstore.com/holley1.html http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D36%2D181&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://www.professionalequipment.com/extech-high-temperature-infrared-laser-thermometer-501-ds-42545/infrared-thermometer/ http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/carb_tuning/ heres where a infared non-contact thermometer helps diagnose mixture problems very quickly, but youll need one that reads into the 1400F range for the headers for quick diagnoses http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm temperature range from -58 to 1832°F I use this one (above) and youll need to learn how to read plugs (this may help) http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...rue#Post1448415 heres A/F http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm http://www.mummbrothers.com/SRF_Stuff/Secrets/Driveline/Air_Fuel.htm http://www.airfuelmeter.com/english/ http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php http://thedynoshop.net/prod01.htm http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html http://fastrides.com/articles/DoItYourself_AirFuelRatio_Gauge.html http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/Information/AirFuelMeter.asp http://www.3barracing.com/product_3.htm a few places to look for plug/ignition info http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp?nav=31000&country= http://www.gofastzone.com/techtips/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.htm http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.autolite.com/framer.cgi?page=http://www.autolite.com/products/racing.htm http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.pajjakid.com/ubipa/sparkplugs.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html http://www.bullittarchive.com/Maintenance/Sparkplugoverview/ http://www.powerarc.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/64378/ http://www.wakularacing.com/TechnicalInfo.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3877/spark.html http://www.rmlautomotive.com/ignition.html http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/JET_AV8R/Vision/Ignition/CDI.HTML http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system1.htm http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/ignition.htm http://www.motocross.com/motoprof/moto/secontent/seign/ignprin/ignprin.htm http://www.northwestautorepair.com/ignitionsystem.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/index.html heres other options http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/ http://www.msdignition.com/ http://www.proformparts.com/catalog/distributors_GM.html http://www.atlanticspeed.com/store/MSD%20Chevrolet%20Distributors.asp http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IS/ISD/ISD.html http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmdui.htm Spark plug /ignition info http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/car_truck_suv/default.asp?nav=60000&country=US http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.applink.net/cct/tips/plugwires.html http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.ngkspark.com.au/spark_plug_cross_ref_chart_index3.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.gofastzone.com/techtips/Spark...20Reference.htm http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/adv...01/advance.html http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/43300...harticles/43300 http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum....com/vacuum.asp http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articl...tion_timing.htm http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/4567...com/howto/45673 http://www.lmengines.com/Ignition_Timing...tion_Timing.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm]http.../garage/hei.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html OPTISPARK info http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0310htp_optispark/ http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html http://www.gulicks.com/vette/projects/opti/index.html http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/ http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm http://www.corvetteclinicinc.com http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758

http://data.melling.com/Select/small_block_chevy.php http://data.melling.com/Select/oil_pumps.php http://data.melling.com/TECH.php http://data.melling.com/Tech%20pdfs/HIGHVOLUMEPUMPS.pdf http://data.melling.com/Tech%20pdfs/PRESSUREVSFLOW.pdf personally I prefer the 3/4" input bbc style part #10990, but it won,t fit all oil pans and at about $115 some guys don,t think its worth the cost, (it IS) yes IM well aware you can get a M99HVS for about $50 but the castings noticably thinner and prone to breaking under some conditions

well I hope everything works out better this time around...CONGRATS on the quick turn around guy!

finding a 330 AMP TIG that can weld up to ANYTHING in steel, or aluminum,a car hobby might EVER encounter, for under $1000 in a MILLER TIG is a #$%^%^& STEAL of a DEAL! hey I might just drive up and grab it! but Ill look for one locally first. look at what the more modern tig of similar amps goes for, yeah, its got more features but at 6-8 times the price its not a huge bargin http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907194041

you might want to look at this, its an older model but Ive used them and they are a very good basic TIG at a reasonable price if your close enought to drive over and test & inspect it may be worth the time, but don,t even consider shipping it, its close to 450lbs http://cgi.ebay.com/Miller-A-BP-AC-DC-TIG-Welder-Package-Plug-Play_W0QQitemZ180125997809QQihZ008QQcategoryZ113743QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

BTW HERES AN OLD POST ON THE SAME SUBJECT "just some info, see these, at least in theory a twin remote mount oil filter with an oil cooler can increase the oil capacity , maintain the oil temp at lower levels, and reduce the resistance to flow the oil system sees by doubling the filter surface area, with the added benefit that the filters can be mounted in a more accessable location. well a fairly comon way to kill an engine is to INCORRECTLY install one of these remote filter adapter kits, look at the top picture and keep in mind that those two connecting hoses COULD be flipped as to what end(in/out ) on the remote filters gets hooked to the bypass adapter (IN/OUT) ports, hook it up correctly and everything works just fine! but swap the two hoses on only one end and YOUR OIL PUMP tries to push OIL PAST the ANTI-DRAINBACK VALVES on the oil filters,(and most of the time is marginally successfull in that a trickle of oil does get to the bearings and rocker arms at idle) now at idle youll still get good oil pressure (about 15 lbs) but rev the engine and the highly restricted oil flow pressure goes up very slowly but the oil VOLUUM getting into the block is so low youll spin a bearing in about the first 20 minutes ( and 99% of the time the guy that does this blames the guy who built his engine for putting it togeather WRONG when in fact the engine could have been PERFECT but with no oil reaching the bearings under load the engine is history within at best about an hours running time!

heres a differant build, notice the differances ,and how the lower cpr hurts, even thou hes got slightly better flowing heads but a milder cam "here is my 383 with specs.... ENGINE -383 stroker 442hp/470ft lbs of torque ) -Chevy 350 bored 30 over and stroked to 383ci -Scat crank 3.75 Stroke Cast 9000 series -Scat 5.7 forged I beam rods with 7/16 arp cap screws -Forged Flat top Probe Sportsman Race Series Pistons -Comp Cams Roller Cam Duration-Intake 230deg Exhaust 236deg @ .050 / Lift Int .510 Exh .520 and 110 lobe separation -Air Flow Research 195cc Heads 74cc chambers -9.7:1 compression -Headman Block Hugger Headers -Edelbrock Fuel Pump -Speed Demon 750cfm Carb Vacume secondaries -Polished Air gap Intake -Edelbrock aluminium water pump -MSD Plug Wires -All Bolts Are ARP -Mini Starter -Edelbrock double roller timing set -Comp cams roller lifters -Crane cams roller rockers -Full Mandrel bent Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust With 50 series deltaflow mufflers and dyno sheet... Intake cener line 105 1/2 jets 76 front 85 rear vac sec spring short yellow timing 35 deg RPM----HP----TQ----A/F--- Vol Eff% 3900 - 328 - 442 - 13.3 - 97 4000 - 340 - 447 - 14.0 - 97 4100 - 356 - 456 - 14.2 - 97.3 4200 - 370 - 462 - 14.0 - 97.5 4300 - 381 - 465 - 13.9 - 97.5 4400 - 390 - 465 - 13.9 - 97.4 4500 - 397 - 463 - 13.8 - 97.4 4600 - 404 - 461 - 13.7 - 97.2 4700 - 410 - 458 - 13.8 - 97.1 4800 - 416 - 465 - 13.8 - 96.9 4900 - 422 - 452 - 13.8 - 96.7 5000 - 427 - 448 - 13.8 - 96.3 5100 - 430 - 443 - 13.8 - 95.8 5200 - 433 - 437 - 13.9 - 95.2 5300 - 435 - 431 - 13.9 - 94.9 5400 - 436 - 424 - 13.8 - 94.6 5500 - 437 - 418 - 13.9 - 94.3 5600 - 439 - 411 - 14.0 - 94.0 5700 - 440 - 406 - 13.9 - 93.5 5800 - 442 - 400 - 13.9 - 92.8 5900 - 442 - 393 - 14.0 - 92.1 6000 - 440 - 385 - 14.0 - 91.5"

screwing up the in vs the out on an oil cooler or similar adapter or reversing the flow, or useing the wrong oil filter are unfortunately fairly comon screw-ups the vast majority of problems I see are directly or indirectly the result of guys getting CHEAP and cutting corners on parts sellection to save a few buck$ or not bothering to verify each and every detail durring engine assembly. things like that reversed flow adapter screw-up are comon and WE ALL lear the hard way about how easily they occure when you don,t make a check list and VERIFY each step rather than ASSUME its done correctly, Ive seen many a cam lobe wiped when it was assumed that the coil bind height or rocker slot to rocker stud, or piston to valve clearances were correct with out checking them and several engines destroyed when oil pump pickup placement from the oil [pan floor was not verified correct at 3/8"-1/2",or the pickup not brazed correctly ETC. you can never assume that just because the old and new parts LOOK similar that they work in an identical fashion with the same clearances, specs, etc. I know one guy who spent $12,000 on a performance engine rebuild, dumped 7 quarts of oil into the valve cover , checked the oil level was correct and jumped in the car to break in the cam durring a short drive, he went for a spirited test drive, that lasted about 180 yards, before it seized up, seems you actually NEED to install an OIL FILTER and spin it on so it touches the adapter firmly and seals,or all the oil drains out........ he told me later he thought there was alot of oil smoke but he thought it would burn off quickly................yeah your not alone, everyone screws up,(NO! THAT WAS NOT ME!....THANK YOU LORD!!!) but a close friend, Ive had my own list of screw-ups and I learned the hard way on more than one occasion to never trust machine shops or assume things are correct without verification

"I'd hate to see the advanced tool list." yeah! it gets depressing when you see the costs http://www.radautomachine.homestead.com/Rottler_HP6A.html $35k for a cylinder hone then theres crank ballanceing machines line hones hydralic cylinder presses sonic testers, lathes mills decking mills magnaflux and zyglow testers sonic parts cleaners ETC. you could $pend a couple million DOLLAR$ and not have nearly a full equiped engine shop!

more bearing info http://engineparts.com/solutions/US-C77-03.pdf http://engineparts.com/solutions/US-C77-02.pdf http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm'' http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2070.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2071.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2072.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2073.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2074.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2075.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2076.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2077.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2078.pdf http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bulletins/TB2079.pdf http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.maintenanceresources.com/ReferenceLibrary/OilAnalysis/oa-m.htm http://www.circletrack.com/tipstricks/4636_crankshaft_rod_bearing_installation_tips/

that may be true but if your serious about the hobby youll spend $20 and put one in your TOOL BOX

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL btw use this oil http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/press_release_2006/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/press_release_2006/cj-4_intro_1006.html and these additives on cam lobes http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99002%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku added to oil http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA%2D153&N=700+304552+115&autoview=sku

the crane 110921 looks like a valid sellection, perhaps someone here with far better computer skills than I have can do a dd-2000 software dyno,and compare both your current and the crane cams power curve

what are the heads flowing at .400 and at .500 lift? whats the TRUE compression ratio? whats the header primairy size and length,COLLECTOR dia. /length are you useing roller rockers and what ratio? what rpm are you currently shifting at/, crossing the lights at? whats your average launch rpm? are you manually controlling the shiofts or if not at what rpm does the cars trans shift at in each gear? at what rpm are you dumping the nitrous in?, do you have a rev limiter? does the nitrous have an rpm window? IE does it open at full throttle at less say 4000rpm but cut off if you hit 6800rpm?

since you didn,t give all the info Id need its hard to suggest exactly, but Ive had excellent results in similar combos with this cam (below) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D110921&autoview=sku keep in mind the solid flat tappet lifter and 106 lca with the 244/252 dur and .518/536 lift makes a great deal of power in the 3500rpm-6700rpm band in similar combos, and it tends to breath and control the valves better than hydrolics of similar durration over 6000rpm btw when you install it, if you have the hood clearance ID certainly try a 2" open carb spacer, those vic jr plenums are on the small side for max power http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1409&N=700+115&autoview=sku

http://www.mortec.com/journal.htm (look at the lower chart) Gen.I, "Small Journal" 265...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00" 283...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00" 302...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00" 327...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00" Gen.I, "Medium Journal", includes "Vortec" 305 and 350 thru '98 262...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 267...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 302...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 305...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 307...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 327...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" 350...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10" Gen.I, "Large Journal" 400...Mains-2.65"-rods-2.10"

IF the kits in decent shape I think your well ahead! congrats just be sure you get it ballanced, the block clearanced, and all matching components like ballancer and flexplate , purchased and sent to the machine shop,as a package deal. before having to ballance the assembly and clearancing the block ETC. keep in mind a cheap price is not a reason to buy something if its not exactly what you want, if the kits cheap ,but still , it requires extensive machine work and its not exactly what you want it might not be a great deal. example, if its a cast crank, stock rods and cast pistons, its a wasted $100 if your thinking of beating on it at 7000rpm or heavy nitrous.. but just fine as a daily driver with increased torque over a similar 350... its a bargin if its what you want, its a wasted $100 if it won,t meet your needs hell, ID donate the exhaust manifolds if he takes the heads for $100, so anything he gives for the manifolds is gravy

IM running a all forged 383 with 11:1 cpr and this cam (notice its similar to yours in durration and lift) http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 a highly modified & extensively ported stealthram and a 250hp max nitrious system currently, but jetted for 200hp id start at 75 hp and get that tunned correctly then bump up in no more than 50hp steps at a time, changing the jets and timing and getting everything correct before advancing at each step. youll learn more and be far less likely to melt parts, or bust drive train components, keep in mind you could have in excess of 700 ft lbs of tq instantly hitting the drive train and parts fail rapidly and your driving and tunning skills better be adapted to those levels slowly in stages, and keep inspecting your oil level and things like u-joints and spark plug color and condition after each change btw this may help http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html read thru these http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/49752/ http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/editpost.php?pid/1174022/

these might help

theres no question that the TRICKFLOW, BRODIX, or AIR FLOW RESEARCH are FAR better quality cylinder heads and WELL WORTH the extra cost, in fact I run TRICKFLOWS currently ,but I should have bought the more expensive BRODIX or AIR FLOW RESEARCH, simply because I spent more in porting and springs than the differance in cost that I saved to get them flowing only slightly better than the BRODIX or AIR FLOW RESEARCH do out of the box. youll NEVER regret getting better heads but you might always regret not spending alittle more up front

mine looks similar but I welded a 1/2 drive socket to the upper end so I could use the air compressor powered air ratchet to spin the sucker without having my drills potentially over heat

if your serious about the hobby and have been as envolved as Ive been for over 40 years youll be close to having most of it....the plazma cutters and the 300 amp tig welder are next on my list

no, but at less than $20 I can,t see anyone not buying one new for thier personal tool set btw heres a basic tool list, (no I don,t have everything YET but IM getting much closer..) A set of quick release tools for late model gm fuel lines and a/c line disconnects. ACETYLENE TORCH ADJUSTABLE LENGTH PUSH ROD ADJUSTABLE POINTER , Adjustable stand, for dial indicator Assorted pliers/vise grips Air compressor Air ratchet Allen wrenches ASK QUESTIONS ASSORTED FILES ASSORTED SOCKETS,OPEN AND BOX WRENCHES 1/2",3/8".1/4" DRIVE Ball joint press tools Ball joint separator forks Battery charger(full size shop type) Bench grinder w/ wire wheel Big huge screwdriver which doubles as a pry bar BORE GAUGE Brake spring pliers and retaining spring tool CAM BEARING INSTALLER CAM DEGREE WHEEL CAM HANDLE CARBIDE BURRS CC Buret Kit/PLUS STAND Checking springs chisels (assorted sizes/types) clamp for compressing calipers CLUTCH PILOT Coil spring compressors Compression tester COMMON SENSE CRANK SOCKETS Creeper Crows feet wrenchs CYLINDER HONE both 280 and 400 grit DENT PULLER DEPTH GAUGE Dial indicator, and stands Die grinder Differential Set-up Kit Distributor wrench DRIFT PUNCHES (assorted sizes/types) Drain pans all sizes Dremel tool set to cut rivets etc. DRILL PRESS Drop light (florescent preferred) Dwell meter for the older cars EASY OUTS ELECTRIC SOLDER GUN Electrical tape Engine hoist/crane ENGINE LEVELER with swivels ENGINE STAND Feeler Gages FIRE EXTINGUISHER Flexible dwell key for point distributors FREEZE PLUG INSTALLER FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE Full set of assorted hammers all the way up to 5 lb hand held full set of tap and dies metric and standard Full set of torqze tip screw drivers and sockets male and female all sizes Full size vice Gasket scraper Gear Pullers GM disk brake caliper Allen key 3/8 and 5/16 Grease gun Harmonic balancer puller HARMONIC BALLANCER INSTALLER HONING STONE 12 ton Jack stands (4) minimum)and a 2 1/2 -3 ton full size service floor jack JEWELERS FILES LAPTOP COMPUTER Leakdown tester LIFTER BORE HONE LIFTER GROOVE TOOL LUIS TOOL Magnets (several) MAGNETIC PICK UP TOOL MAGNIFYING GLASS MANUAL LUBE PUMP MICROMETERS MIG WELDER Mini Valve Spring Tester MIRROR modeling clay (2 lbs) Multimeter (both analog and digitay types) Normal screwdrivers all sizes & type NUT SPLITTER number stamps in 3/8" and 1/4" sizes OIL CAN Oil filter and regular spin on filter wrenches. Oil filter wrench Oil Pump Primers ONE NEW SOLID LIFTER PB BLASTER OIL Pipe cutter PISTON RING COMPRESSOR Piston stop, Pitman arm puller Plasma cutter , at least 150 amp PLASTIC HAMMER Pneumatic chisel Pneumatic impact guns 3/8 and 1/2 drive Pressure bleeder for brakes PRY BAR PUSHROD CHECKER Putty knife , 2" and 4" Ramps (oil change type at least 12 high) Rear caliper piston turning tool REFERENCE MANUALS RIFLE CLEANING ROD AND BRUSHES FOR OIL PASSAGES Ring expander pliers RING GAP FILER Rochester idle mixture adjusting tool ROD BOLT GUIDES ROD BOLT STRETCH GAUGE SELF DARKENING WELDING HELMET SCAN SOFTWARE Sledge or mall hammer SMALL FLASH LIGHT Snap ring pliers internal and external SPRING COMPRESSOR Standard set of drift pin punches,alignment punches,[censored] and centering punches. Steering column lock plate compressor Steering wheel puller Stethoscope STUD INSTALLER TAPE MEASURE Test light Three or four of every type and size socket and wrenches in both metric and SAE Timing light, (advance type ) Tire Pressure Gauges TORQUE WRENCH (at least two) torx bits, both long and short, sizes t-10 thru t-50 Transmission jack Tubing cutter Tubing flare tool Tubing bender Utility knife VACUUM GAUGE Wire crimper Wheel chocks (keep cars from rolling) GOOD KNOWLEDGEABLE FRIENDS Other things to keep handy - TheBandit -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Additional items that may come in handy - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gasket scraper Plasma cutter Drill press (stand alone) Allen wrenches 12pt sockets Deep sockets Impact sockets Compressor Retracting extension cord Safety glasses Bench grinder w/ wire wheel Die grinder Wire crimper Valve spring compressor Breaker bar Distributor wrench Taps & dies Oil filter wrench Line wrenches Crows feet Shorty wrenches Tire iron Cutting torch FIRE EXTINGUISHER Throw-away vinyl gloves Plastic zip-lock bags Permanent marker Duct tape Electrical tape Torque wrench Oil pump primer Speed wrench Carburetor stand Tire pressure gauge Compression gauge Sandblaster Paint gun Utility knife Transmission jack Mallets , lead, rawhide and rubber Stethoscope