grumpyvette

"I'm sure that the AFR180's will be down on that power and TQ somewhat." those numbers are close to what I got useing EA PRO but surprizingly the 180 cc heads HELPED the 302s power curve and only HURT/RESTRICTED the 383 slightly,(6% lower rpm port stall on the 180cc vs the 210cc) keep in mind the low lift flow is better and runner velocities higher on the smaller ports, and flow potential above .550 lift is meaningless as the valves never reach that lift, plus everytime the valves open they flow at .200-.0300-.0400-.0500 but don,t have the slight (6%)lag in flow the larger port would have at low rpms, I also matched the combo to 1 5/8" headers and cam LSA to improve mid rpm flow/scavaging so the actual flow would be better on the smaller heads in that range also keep in mind the 383 with its aproximately 27% larger displacement reaches the same port flow velocities at 27% lower rpms

can someone with the computer skills necessary PLEASE.. PLEASE ! post the picture of the power curve for both the 302 and 383 using the parts just as I listed them above???...damn I wish I could do it!.....LOOK I don,t throw random parts together, theres a reason those parts were sellected " Id start with AFR 180cc heads http://www.airflowresearch.com/ a short block with 11:1 cpr, and Id prefer 6" (H) style rods and FORGED PISTONS are MANDATORY a CRANE 114681 flat tappet solid lifter cam installed retarded 4 degrees http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 id run a rocker stud girdle a holley intake HLY-300-110 Holley Keith Dorton Signature Series Intake Manifolds add a 750 holley or demon carb Id run full length 1 5/8" headers (open) since ideally youll have a low restriction tuned exhaust Id use comp cams steel roller rockers (1.5:1 ratio) Id run 4.56 or 4.88:1 rear gears perhaps someone can run you a DD-2000 results ????.........then Id love them to post the results of the exact same combo changing only the stroke to a 3.75" as a 383 would have just so you can see why we build 383s"

vortec heads are designed for low and mid range TORQUE not higher rpm power, will they work, yeah but not nearly as well as the better flowing AFR or similar BRODIX heads that are preferable look, its a compromise, and a 180cc-200cc heads a good match for a 302 spinning 6500rpm-7500rpm, yet not too large for decent power lower in the rpm range vortec AFR holley heres a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some comon cross sectional port sizes (measured at the smallest part of the ports) ...........................sq inches........port cc edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170 vortec......................1.66.............170 tfs195......................1.93.............195 afr 180.....................1.93.............180 afr 195.....................1.98.............195 afr 210.....................2.05.............210 dart pro 200................2.06.............200 dart pro 215................2.14.............215 brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221 dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230 edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238 edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266 tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250 as the displacement and rpms increase the ability to fill the cylinders falls off rapidly if the cross sectional area is restricted, this becomes very obvious on a dyno, if the ports too large only the upper rpm range will work effectively, too small and the upper rpms power suffers. BTW theres a 206cc vortec heads that will work read this http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/index1.html

heres what Id build, if I was dead set on a 302 and keeping the costs at the minimum levels...keep in mind the idea here is to get the best results for the least cost, not to spend a great deal of money to get a few extra hp Id start with AFR 180cc heads http://www.airflowresearch.com/ a short block with 11:1 cpr, and Id prefer 6" (H) style rods and FORGED PISTONS are MANDATORY a CRANE 114681 flat tappet solid lifter cam installed retarded 4 degrees http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 id run a rocker stud girdle a holley intake HLY-300-110 Holley Keith Dorton Signature Series Intake Manifolds add a 750 holley or demon carb Id run full length 1 5/8" headers (open) since ideally youll have a low restriction tuned exhaust Id use comp cams steel roller rockers (1.5:1 ratio) Id run 4.56 or 4.88:1 rear gears perhaps someone can run you a DD-2000 results ????.........then Id love them to post the results of the exact same combo changing only the stroke to a 3.75" as a 383 would have just so you can see why we build 383s

no ware in the description that I can see were double hump fuelie heads mentioned,nor was the cam specs,compression ratio ,4 bolt mains,and type of parts (cast vs forged) youll be getting a remanufactured basic 327, that will probably barely make the advertized flywheel hp but thats IT! I think youll be far better off buying a 4 bolt block from a local machine shop and a set of performance cylinder heads and a cam/lifters for that $2000 you can buy a BRAND NEW 350 with a 3 year warrantee from chevy for about $1700 http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html?/sales.html 12499529 - 350/290 HP V8 Crate Engine (youll at least start with a NEW 4 bolt main block) btw read this its worth the effort http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html

305 sbc engines are considered FAR LESS desirable than the 350 engines and the reason is that ANYTHING you do to a 305 would work even better on a 350 or 383 which will cost a similar amount to build (OVER HERE, but since you may have difficulty finding a basic engine to modify..... what you do is up to you, personally ID wait and build a 383 from a 350 block) that being said, heres some info you may need maybe this will be of interest , the main reason 305s have rotten STOCK performance is the combo of low cpr, junk heads that flow like crap and mild cams, ALL THAT CAN BE CHANGED, what can,t be changed is the smaller bore and how it restricts the engines ability to breath at higher RPMS while youll never match a 350-383 sbc you might be surprized at what COULD be done http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/325_horsepower_305_cid_chevrolet.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/projectbuild/48358/ http://www.carcraft.com/howto/854/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0312_proj/ http://www.hioutput.com/tech/400hp/400hp.html now I don,t know the costs over there but generally you can find rebuildable 350 sbc engine cores for well under $400 USD, Ive purchased whole running cars with 350 sbc engines for that amount ,frequently. Id look around and find a donor car or 350 block to start with and skip the 305, but like I posted, its NOT hopeless. a 305 can be made to run hard, but you can figure your giving up 70-100hp building a 305 vs a 383 that 305 TPI engine has little or no true high hp potential,theres basically no parts youll want to use in a true high performance engine build

"He claimed the the overly polished surface will cause the oil to flow out between the bearing and the journal too quickly" NO! in fact the flow of oil between the bearing clearances absorbs and transfers heat away from the bearings and the clearances and width of the bearing surface, the end radias, plus the viscosity and pressure of the oil effect the flow far more than the surface finish (within limits of course) but keep in mind that ideally under operation the journals never touch the bearing surfaces because they are seperated by presurized oil. since the pump supplies an endlessly pressurized flow of oil, the only possiable way that the oil can flow out "to QUICKLY" is if its not SUPPLIED FLOWING IN at a SLIGHTLY HIGHER RATE, since PRESURE is a measure of the resistance to FLOW thru those clearances, if it was flowing out too quickly youll have little or no OIL PRESSURE,simply increasing the flow voluum or viscosity will increase the pressure readings, but thats seldom if ever a problem with a correctly set up pump and bearing clearances,in fact thats why your pressure tends to go up as the rpms increase, the pump is a possitive displacement pump, whos voluum increases as the rpms increase but the rate oil can flow thru the clearances does not increase as quickly as the engine speed increases so the resistance to flow increases, IE the pressure goes up! http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb20232.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/bearingwear/bearingwearanalysis.htm http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/clearances.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.micropolishing.com/article1.htm the smoother and more consistant in the dia. and surface consistancy the journal has the more actual bearing surface supports weight http://www.manufacturingcenter.com/tooling/archives/0902/0902auto.asp http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/1005ex2.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...78068d0a9d87139 the smoother and more consistant in dimension,taper and circumferance the better,the radias on the edge where the journal meets the cranks counter weights must also be consistant these links provide more info http://www.nb-cofrisa.com/docs/web_fallos_ing.PDF http://www.carrilloind.com/tech_archives3.html

upgrading to a decent TIG unit from a marginal MIG unit is a total no-brainer in my opinion, TIG may be slower, but the increase in potential QUALITY of the welds beats production speed for personal work 100 to zip in my opinion

correctly setup and tunned NITROUS is like good SEX, if youve never had it you don,t miss it......but once youve had it!!! you don,t seem to ever want to do without it! my corvettes got the engine built from the start to maximize the nitrous, I only have about 475hp before the shot, and a custom 200hp system, but once youve got up to about 50mph and hit the giggle gas, your an instant believer, with about 600 plus hp and about 650 ft lbs of tq,OHHOO YEAH, PINS you in the seat too well over 100mph and the grin lasts a good while! the only problem is the frequent half shaft and u-joint failures btw Im working slowly towards my goal of swapping to a 500 plus displacement big block with nitrous

when you get into the C3 corvettes and earlier your looking for over-all condition, age and options, like engine,trans and special features as the factors that determine price. on the older corvettes I look for frame and suspension damage, rust, and pulling a CARFACTS report is MANDATORY look in the gas tank for rust, look carefully around the windshield for rust and signs its replaced, put the car on a lift and look CAREFULLY at the frame and suspension components, stand at each end and look at the glass in the body for indications of body work,look behind the seats and under carpets for signs of water damage, look for un-even tire wear, oil leaks, brake fluid leaks, rust,cracked fiberglass ,spin the tires while its up on the lift look for wobbles and listen for noises,look for welds, cracks, repairs, bad u-joints, bubbles in paint, do a compression test if they let you, check the dipstick for water in the oil,dirt,sludge, check the trans for a burnt smell in the lube, play with the shifter, it should move firmly and smoothly,check the brake fluid it should be clear not dark/rusty, drive the car, it should track strait, not pull to one side, and the engine should idle steadly and evenly, the exhaust system should not be rusty or leak,the radiator should have clean coolant, no rust or oil and no bubbles when the cars idling (naturally this needs to be checked before it heats up)no take it on the highway,up to the speed limit for several minutes, look for overheating, brake problems, strearing, leaks, problems, don,t forget to drive in reverse, check the air conditioning is cold, lights work,headlights go upand down smoothly (SEVERAL TIMES) etc. now realistically on a 30 plus year old car there not going to be a perfect check list but you should minimize the work and replacement parts youll need to do.

Thank You!!!!!! ILL HEAD DOWN TO SEARS AND SEE IF THEY HAVE TWO SETS AVAILABLE

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeTroubleshoot.htm brake problems, this may help

thanks THATS GOOD INFO!!!

Im looking into that option now, hopefully the damn lock itself can be removed/replaced with a similar lock and you can purchase matched SETS/KEYED alike

Ive got 6 large CRAFTSMAN PRO tool boxes that lock with those circular keys, thats 6 diffearant keys, meaning IM always finding the wrong keys on the key ring, now obviously I can and have found a way to match keys/locks by painting the key and matching lock with a dab of differant color paint but does anyone know how hard it would be, and expensive to replace all the locks with keyed the same replacements? it would make a minor anoyance go away

http://www.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/view/432441/BBC-572-598-Short-Block-DART-EAGLE-assembled.html yeah, but start with 598 cubic inches add a good set of heads, a pro nitrous fogger, ETC. and a roll cage, a dana 60 rear diff., slicks, etc. and you can eat turbos for breakfast, you just don,t get the same tq curve, a high compression nitrous big block near 600 cubic inches has, and theres always those aluminum blocks if weights a big deal http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg7.pdf http://www.brodix.com/Alum%20Big%20Block.html then Id look thru the ADDS on USED RACING ENGINES http://usedracingparts.com/cgi-bin/...s.cgi?md=search http://www.autoracingtrader.com/racing_engines.htm http://www.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/browse/6/ starting with a base like this is a senceable start http://www.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/v...-assembled.html did I ever mention I build a lot more BIG BLOCK ENGINES??? theres a REASON!

http://www.westechperformance.com/dimensions.htm http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html'>http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/ http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.jeepgod.net/enginewts.html the distance from the firewall to the distributor changes very little between the bbc and sbc, motor mounts generally bolt up to either block but can be differant, most of the differance in length is forward of the engine mounts, useing aluminum heads,intake and water pump on a bbc can get the weight down significantly (generally within 50-80 lbs of a sbc) use an aluminum block with those parts and a bbc can easily weight less than a sbc with an iron block aluminum bbc blocks generally cost $3600-$5600, or about $1800-$2300 more than the same quality iron block, that $ saves you about 100lbs and the ability to easily weld/repair the block if its damaged while cast iron blocks generally get dumpstered if seriously damaged the aluminum blocks are actually a good deal if you can afford the differance in price http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg7.pdf http://www.brodix.com/Alum%20Big%20Block.html

http://ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html

having used a few of the intakes I can say that they can be made to work reasonably well,the examples Ive seen were not quite as well manufactured as the EDELBROCKS they were a copy of but with some carefull port matching and some grinding in the plenum area under the carb too the runner enterances they were a viable option. the single plane even made slightly better power than the edelbrock vic JR once BOTH were ported in the lower rpm ranges, while only giving up a few hp at the peak rpm. Ive seen several dyno tests where they got similar results to what Ive seen with that single plane intake BTW Satin 52031 HURRICANE for 23° Heads http://www.professional-products.com/manifoldsProductSBchevy.php

http://www.gojaks.com/?OVRAW=wheel%20jacks&OVKEY=jacks&OVMTC=advanced JUST SOME INFO......GARIOTS GARAGE IS CHARGING YOU EXTRA! THE MANUFACTURES LIST PRICE IS LE$$....IN FACT ALMOST $130 LESS FOR A SET OF FOUR YOULL NEED FOR THE 6000LB SET THAT ARE WIDE ENOUGHT TO FIT THE CORVETTE RACING TIRES MANUFACTURER PRICE FOR four $800 GARIOTS PRICE FOR FOUR $938 OR $777.40 FOR 4 FROM THESE GUYS http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/gj6000.html BUT DON,T FORGET TO FIGURE IN SHIPPING COSTS TO SEE WHO REALLY GIVES THE BEST DEAL

"There is a guy on EBAY making some out of 1/4" plate with nice casters that looked really nice " GOT A LINK TO THE ADD???

"IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR CAR NEEDS WORK!" "IF YOU BOUGHT ALL YOUR PARTS,VS MADE MOST OF THEM YOUR OBVIOUSLY A ENTRY LEVEL HOTRODDER" HAVING THE SKILLS AND A GOOD TIG WELDER AND PLAZMA CUTTER CAN BE ALMOST AS FUN AS SEX OBVIOUSLY IT REQUIRES MODIFICATION IF IT WONT GET TO 100 MPH IN UNDER 5 SECONDS

wheel dollys are a tool that many shops use that allow you to slide the car in any dirrection easily so you can effectively move cars and maximize the use of floor space, with cars on wheel dollys you don,t even need to allow room to open the doors between cars as you can easily slide the car in and out of location with a carefully guided shove. but like all tools theres a vast differance in quality between the differant styles/types available. around the shop its frequently a P.I.T.A. to move cars around to get the necessary room to do some types of work if you have limited floor space as most of us know. now one neat little semi- fix is to put the cars your not currently working on , on wheel dollys that allow you to slide the car forward,back,sideways,diagonally ETC. without needing to find the keys or push in back and forth several times to get the angles correct, so many of the better shops have wheel dollys in use. they come in vastly differant QUALITY ranges and price ranges heres a few, notice the differance in the carry capacitys http://www.automotivepartsnetwork.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=94&idproduct=18984 http://www.toolweb.com/AutoBodySupply/store.cfm?catID=26239&subcatID=42775&do=itemslist&expadd=1&cfid=2423733&cftoken=73840808 http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...p;x=36&y=13 my question is simply this, I HAVE USED THE CHEAPER ONES LIKE HARBOR FRIEGHT SEELS AND THEY ARE CRAP IN MY OPINION, HAS ANYONE FOUND A VERY GOOD QUALITY WHEEL DOLLY SET THAT THEY LIKE? iM REALLY TEMPTED TO PURCHASE SEVERAL SETS OF THE 2400LB RATED SETS FROM SUMMIT RACING, (SUM-G1048-2 ) BUT WANT ADVICE/INFO FIRST

heres a very small sellection of anti theft devices, you really need some basic deterants to theft, while I won,t get into what I use in detail for obvious reasons, you need a multi layered approach, where defeating one or two layers still does not alow the car to be driven AND YOU NEED TO ACTIVATE those devices EACH TIME YOUR NOT IN THE CAR!! http://home.att.net/~email.id/ADESystem.doc http://www.wheelboots-immobilizers.com/wheelgrips.html http://www.wheelboots-immobilizers.com/immobilizers.html http://www.eastpointpolice.org/devices.htm http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=1079&sc=3364 http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=3507 http://www.autobarn.net/rodi/2anstwhlo.html http://www.lojack.com/?engine=adwords!2603&keyword=%28auto+anti+theft+device%29&match_type= no you can,t make the car theft proof but you can make it more difficult than its worth to steal, things like hidden kill switchs and wheel locks WORK, simple things like parking your car where you can see it easily in a locked fenced yard, owning a few dogs, and parking a second car with an alarm ,blocking the more valuable car ALL potentially help, if for no other reason than the more time it takes the less it will look like a good target personally I wish you could just shoot the theiving S.O.B.s and let them ROT on the curb in the trash where they belong

ANYTIME your running a supercharged combo, your better off useing a set of FORGED pistons simply because DETONATION,EVEN MILD DETONATION will eventually destroy pistons.. ANY PISTONs but it will DESTROY HYPER OR CAST pistons far faster than FORGED PISTONS ....the differance in cost is only a few hundred dollars ($150-$250 in most cases, but the expence youll incure should the piston come apart at speed is far greater and the chances iit will occure far higher with hypereutectics than forged, personally I would not consider anything but FORGED PISTIONS in a supercharged application