grumpyvette

Ive played around with different versions for years, results vary with the design features and how well the systems thought thru and built, but correctly designed they do get impressive results, badly designed they can hurt performance. keep in mind your cam timing, intake runner design,displacement,compression, and other factors help or hinder the results youll get. low and mid rpm torque increases are comon in a well designed set of AR headers,high rpm power loss is comon in badly designed headers for those that don,t know what were refering to its headers/exhaust designed to flow only in one direction, baffles are designed into the primary and collectors to break up or retard reversion pulses. your goal is to keep the exhaust speed/energy high to maximize cylinder scavaging yet restriction low to reduce back pressure to the minimum and to control and direct reversion pulse energy to assist in that scavaging generally its done by extending the primary header tubes at some point into a larger primary tube (steping up, so as to leave a sharp edge that the reversion pulse generated at some rpm ranges has difficulty traveling back over. or installing venturis (tappered cones) in the exhaust headers that accomplish the same effect or BOTH yes you really do need to read thru the links http://www.headerdesign.com/extras/design.asp http://www.burnsstainless.com/Xdesign/xdesign.html http://www.vetteguru.com/mods/headers/ http://www.boatheaders.com/reversionbody.htm http://www.burnsstainless.com/dynosys/dynosys.html http://www.headersbyed.com/bildbetr.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.headersbyed.com/stepped.htm http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeCollectors/mergecollectors.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESHHA/SplitFlow.html as a simple example of a mod that usually gets results if the reduction is smooth/gradual, if its fairly abrupt the reduction acts as a restriction or even causes reversion to some extent install one of these venturies in the 3" exhaust pipe(small end toward the rear)where the 3" collector mates to the 3" exhaust pipe to form a lip or step in the exhaust so any reversion pulse tends to have difficulty traveling from the exhaust to the collector adding an (X) just past the anti reverion venturies reduces or at least tends to reduce reversion pulse strength also

thanks guys, Im figuring on 36 sqs does that sound about correct?? btw heres a link that may help some guys reading this thread figuring the surface area is easy, the problem is that SHINGLES are installed overlapping and I did not know the percentage wasted durring the average installation http://www.pbs.org/teachersource/mathline/concepts/outdoors/Act1Solution.pdf

perhaps I stated the 6:1 wrong, IM refering to a 6" raise in height for a 1 foot length of roof, aproximately a 30 degree slope?

Im in the process of building my new garage (owner/builder) I need to order shingles, the garage mearures 36 feet x 74 feet in floor area (2664 sq feet) Im installing a HIP ROOF 6:1 with a 2 ft overhang vaugely similar to this (roof not the garage) ,and I need to know the approximate numbers of SQUARES of roof shingles to order, but never having built a garage before Id be guessing at about 34 squares worth of shingles???? to allow for the usually % of screw-ups , fitting ETC,?? any help from guys that do roofs or contractors who build garages ETC. for a living would be appreciated guys yeah I have hired experianced roof guys to do the actual work, buy they have aggreed to do all work and supply everthing but the shingles BECAUSE I wanted MUCH BETTER QUALITY than the average job they usually supply or install so they ask me to get them delivered to the job, they gave me an estimate on the number of squares but it seemed to be low in my estimation, so I wanted to check before ordering the shingles

your 17? ok step 1 buy AND READ SEVERAL TIMES the JTR swap manual http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html STEP 2 get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...F8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...2699400-6836852 . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS STEP 3 read this http://www.chevyasylum.com/chp/Welcome.html step 4 buy and start with this engine, as its the LEAST EXPENSIVE way to start, and you start with a NEW engine with a factory warranty, at least up to the point you start modifications so you atleast start out with a good basic engine http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3508/products/228960/290HP-350-Long-Block-Pre-Emissions-GM-Crate-Engine.htm

If you are starting from a bare block BUILD A 383 or 396 stroker the differance in cost is only a few hundred dollars but the power potential is significant If you use an internally ballanced rotating assembly to build that 383 , that allows you to use the 350 style damper and flywheel/flexplate all the parts like trans and mounts fit and function the same and youll gain about 40hp/40ft lbs over a similarly built 350 engine don,t sweat the small amount of clearance work on the block, especially if you use (H) style STROKER DESIGN rods as they are designed for MAX clearance and the block work is easily done with a carbide burr and a ellectric drill YOU MAY NEED A SMALL BASE CIRCLE CAM, IN SOME APPLICATIONS FOR EXTRA CLEARANCE TO THE CONNECTING RODS heres a old post that will help Ive built dozens of 383 and 396 sbc engines and the clearancing can be done BY YOUR OWN HANDS with a standard HAND HELD drill and a few CARBIDE BURRS OR GRIND STONES in that drill in well under two hours if you take your time and total expence even if you need to buy that drill and burrs will be well under $50 total http://www.click-onsource.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=OVAL_1-4_Shank buy a 1/2" burr and a cheap drill http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20776&item=4358782476&rd=1 place you old bearings in the block an place the crank in those bearings after coating them with axle grease slowly rotate the crank and grind a minimum of .060 clearance anywhere the counter weights might touch the block and try NOT to grind more than about .070 any place it touches the block (use a JUMBO size paper clip as a gauge if you don,t have feeler gauges) next assemble two connecting rods and pistons, one connecting rod and piston for the left one connecting rod and piston for the right, use old bearings coated with axle grease and no rings on the pistons, assemble them to the crank and grind anyplace the rods touch the block, grind minimum of .060 clearance and try NOT to grind more than about .070 any place the rods touche the block (use a LARGE size paper clip as a gauge if you don,t have feeler gauges)move them to the next journal and repeat untill all 4 journals and 8 connecting rods clear. now assemble all eight rods and pistons without rings and install them in thier correct locations and recheck everthing carefully. next intall the cam and index it correctly with the timeing chain/gears, rotate the engine slowly and look for clearance issues, between the cam and rods/rod bolts ,youll need to use a small base cam if there are major clearance issues and thats almost always a good idea when building a stroker combo but in most cases if your cams lift and duration is under about 230 at .05 and .500 lift there should be minor if any clearance issues, usually the outside edge of a rod bolt head is the only area needing a touch up. once everything clears, wash all the parts VERY CAREFULLY ,TWICE and re-oil then send out to be ballanced [/color]now you might ask why do that! well, first youll know its done correctly, and that a correctly built 383 will have a very significant hp and torque advantage over any similar 327 or 350 http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm http://www.prewittracing.com/newpage2.htm http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post676922 "Pardon me for being dense GRUMPY ..but what is being grinded upon, the block?" this may help the comon areas are the area near the block oil pan rail where the rod bolts touch and the lower inner cylinder walls and where the cam lobes touch the rod bolts upper shoulder on some types of rods, now you can,t grind on the cam, but you can grind the edge of the rod bolt and you can use a small base circle cam to give greater clearances http://www.karl-ellwein.org/2005engineprojects/388project.htm

Corzette ?? what cam are you currently running? whats your current engine combo? what other cams have you tried?

ZFANs correct the extra 65 lbs means very little to your performance . in a 2800 lb (Z) the differance would add about 2.3% to the weight, but having an overdrive top gear means a great deal to both engine life and top speed. plus it allows you to run a MUCH higher (NUMBER RATIO) rear gear and still run highway freindly rpms. you can play with these calculators and get a good idea http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm Turbo 700R-4 3.06 1.63 53.268% 1.00 61.350% 0.70 70.000% btw the 700r4 AUTO transmission and drive train absorbs about 20% of the power rarely higher, manuals absorb about 17%-18% so the differance is reasonable, and many cars with auto transmissions are faster due to the tq multiplication a torque converter allows at launch and the more consistant shifts, and Id also point out a 700r4 has a tq converter that locks solid in od for increased mileage while a th350 always has slippage, and that slippage adds a good deal of extra heat to the trans fluid lowering trans life stick a 3.90 rear gear ratio and 26" tires on that (Z) and youll run 3000rpm at 59mph with a th350 stick a 3.90 rear gear ratio and 26" tires on that (Z) and youll run 2100 rpm at 59mph with a 700r4

"IM building a 496 stroker from my 454 engine in the corvette, I read somewhere that the 4.25 stroke of this engine will boost the compression a little more than the standard 4.00 stroke. Is that true? I thought that if I used the 10-1 pistons that are MADE to be used with the 6.385 rods, my compression would be the stated 10-1. Any thoughts? " first Id point out that your comparing apples & oranges to some extent, if you had flat top pistons designed for either engine with the came deck height, valve notches,etc, but the correct pin hight for the application, or for that matter any pistons with identical dome displacement, and you use the same cylinder heads with the same combustion chamber size, increasing the stroke will increase the compression simply because youve increased the sweep voluum between bdc and tdc, play with this calc, change only the stroke on any combo and look over the results http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html now once you understand that approach, you need to understand that the compression and dome height IS by design DIFFERANT on the 10:1 pistons for a 4" stroke and a 4.25" stroke piston designed to have 10:1 compression. both will have aproximately 10:1 cpr in thier intended application, but the pin heigh,ETC. will differ a great deal now it may help if you play with these calculators (below) http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=piston_comp http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=deck http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=piston http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 keep in mind the blocks deck and crank centerline stay constant if the blocks deck is 9.8" from the crank centerline and you have a 4.0" stroke with a 6.135" rod youll need a 1.665" pin height in the piston if the blocks deck is 9.8" from the crank centerline and you have a 4.25" stroke with a 6.385" rod youll need a 1.29" pin height in the piston

"your rear main cap you gave me while in Okinawa almost three years ago is still holding up fine" GLAD TO HEAR THAT IT WORKED FOR YOU!

http://www.ratsun.com/ this may interest you

ok how do i adjust them now? http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html http://www.jimcookperformance.com/TechNotes/TN7ValvLash.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89720.htm http://www.boostandfuel.com/support/setting_valves.htm http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/87998/index2.html http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/valveadj.html btw if your totally new at this the tappet feeler gauge measures the lash clearance between the valve and rocker on solid lifter cams I just don,t think adjusting the valves without the oil pressure and the block up to operating temp. is the best way to adjust valves , but yes you can do it just fine with several methods discribed above how do you adjust valves at idle without the mess of oil getting all over the engine and headers HIT A FEW YARD SALES, SWAP MEETS UNTILL YOU FIND A DIRT CHEAP SET OF TALL CAST VALVE COVERS LIKE THESE, the CONDITION THEY ARE IN ,WITHIN REASONABLE LIMITS OF COURSE IS NOT THAT IMPORTANT you simply cut the ribbed center section out of the valve cover, and glue the synthetic valve cover gaskets on them in the normal location, when you go to adjust the valves you first remove the standard valve covers and install your VALVE ADJUSTMENT COVERS, they retain about 80%-90% of the oil that would normally be lost over the edge of the cylinder head while adjusting a running engine, they also catch much of the splashed oil, just leave a 1/4"-3/8" of the rolled top for strenth around the perimiter of the top surface. I bought my set for $10, they were old and slightly discolored but I could not care less! I took them home and used a drill and saber saw to remove the center ribbed area, theres several brands that are very similar in appearance, all will work! and Ive used them for over 25 years, if I remember correctly they are mickey thompson brand now if the lifters are hydrolic of course you just back the adjustment nuts off the rocker studs with a wrench, slowly until the rocker JUST starts clicking , then slowly tighten the nut just up to the point that the clicking stops then add 1/4 to 3/8 turn to preload the lifter and move to the next rocker and repeat, the only differance with solid lifters is you use a feeler gauge inserted between the valve tip and rocker after they click slightly,to measure the lash distance recomended on the cam spec. card (normally .016-.028 thousands) and you tighten them just to the point at idle that the clicking stops... then you remove the feeler gauge and move to the next rocker if your useing jam nuts dont forget to lock the allen key Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF! with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF! If you have noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way. with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve or if your really lazy (you can use this method on hydrolic lifters)install the tall cut valve covers and just turn the engine about 20 degrees (start anywhere )and take the slack out of any loose rockers, repeat for 720 degrees,(twice around) then go back and give each rocker nut one turn OUT(LOOSER) and start the engine,(yeah it will be messy and noisy) and then go back and turn each rocker IN (TIGHTER) untill it just quits clicking plus 1/3rd of a turn past that point Post Extras:

"what I'm getting is that machining or cylinder honeing without a torque plate to simulate exactly where the block will be when the heads are on, can, may & or will cause deviation from true spec after final assembly?" yeah thats the IDEA!

thanks to CNC BLOCKS N/E This is a pic of a 454 block that has come in for some work as it only has about 3200 miles on it since the rebuild and it was making some lower end noises. We line honed it and squared and decked it flat and bored it and we blued up the 2 center cylinders installed the gasket and torque plate and went in for 6 strokes on each cylinder as you can see the results and look at the piston as it has blowby right to the oil controll rings as we could measure .003 distortion on the cylinders. notice the torque plate which simulates the stress on the block with the heads bolted on distorts the cylinder walls significantly, honeing without torque plates results in a cylinder surface thats not strait and round when the heads are bolted on. I have done blocks this way and gone trade shows and guys are amazed at what a torque plate does to a cylinder and on the after market blocks the distortion is minimal compared to the OEM stuff. The other side http://www.bhjinc.com/redirect/03HoningPlateApplications/Applications-PSHP1001.pdf Comments are welcome

http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg7.pdf http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=083111&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=34&y=12 http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg23.pdf http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=083111&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=34&y=12 http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg27.pdf now it does not take much thought to figure out that an all aluminum BBC that would weight less than an all iron small block enginewith 80cc chamber heads that flow 400cfm plus is slightly cheaper potential idea now, than the average aluminum blocks that usually run in the $5000-$5500 range, the new block costs $3700, while thats a big jump in price over the similar iron aftermarket big block, block that generally costs about $2000, its still a good deal lighter in weight, and with flat top pistons high compression combos are easy now (11.2:1 with typical flat top pistons on a 496-632 displacement stroker that could easily produce 700-900hp without a domed piston. in fact on the larger displacements a reverse dome is required)

BLUEPRINTING" an engine basically means cleaning up/and minimizing the normal machining clearance and dimensional variations that occur durring mass production, its basicaly done to make sure all the parts function correctly with minimal and EQUAL stress levels you might want to buy and read this http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?...&kid=281466 http://hpbooks.carshopinc.com/product_in...6119779a324aaa8 http://sabooks.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/46840/06 you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...F8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...2699400-6836852 . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS [ http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1...1234339-0571324 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.idealhowtovideo.com/engine.html http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...ks&n=507846 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books

thanks to CNC BLOCKS N/E I can repost this info have been emailed several times asking what it takes to do the job correctly. First we start with the main line add caps if needed line bore and finish with a line hone. This is a pic of a 010/020 block with 2482 center caps being line honed. Next we blue print bore the cam tunnel for over size bearings or roller bearings as this fixture locates center to center distance of the main line and cam center line and keeps the cam tunnel in line with the main line. This is a pic of a Dart Aluminum block with a .391 raised cam tunnel that we bored out for 55MM cam shaft. From ther we install it in our CNC machine and index it in the machine. And before we do any machine work we probe the block for deck heights, Cylinder locations in X and Y and cylinder size as it tells us how far its of to blue print. This is a pick of a Dart Little-M block being probed out. [ From there we machine the decks 45 degrees from the crank and cam center lines. Next we blue print bore the cylinders or on some of the older 010 blocks that are out of blue print we can bore to the preprobed location Dart block being bored to blue print. Once bore we can chamfer the tops of the cylinders yo a desired depth Next we blue print bore the lifter bores to .875 or .904 or bush back to standard. Dart Little-M block being machined for .875 lifter bores. From there we install the block in our Sunnen Hone intall the torque plate and hone the cylinders to the desired size. Dart Little-M block being honed Finished products. Dart Little-M block This is a pic of a blower engine our engine shop builds for a pulling team. Comments are welcome.

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/index1.html look 1/3 down the page but before you get crazy... look at the DART PLATINUM IRON HEAD FLOW NUMBERS on this same page....a similarly priced aftermarket iron head http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy

25534431 SB Chevrolet Complete Large Port Vortec Bow-Tie Cylinder Head $499.95 EACH http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3129/GM-Performance-Parts-Cylinder-Heads.htm look the new heads are now approved for some racing , they flow enought better that many teams are currently swapping to them, simply because they are an excellent value in a iron production cylinder head NEW CHEVY HEAD RULE -The new Chevrolet Vortec Bow-Tie Cast Iron Cylinder Head will be approved for competion without any weight penalties starting July 1, 2005. After reviewing performance information from the New Vortec Bow-Tie Heads not available in Nov. 2004 when the PASS 2005 Rules were released, PASS Officials view them as "The Possible GM Head of Choice" starting the 2007 season. PASS will review performance again after the 2005 season and inform competitors if this "GM Head of Choice Rule" is adopted in 2007. The GM Vortec Bow-Tie numbers are 25534351 & 25534371 (bare castings) or 25534421 & 25534431 (fully assembled) and only allowed in "as produced" condition. Valve size must remain stock (2.00" & 1.55"), only normal valve machining, & 1/2" max. port matching.

some flat crank v8 engines fire two cylinders at a time, effectively making them an 8 cylinder engine operating as a 4 cylinder with two pistons firing at the same time, others fire in a similar manor to a typical v8 but not with the power strokes spaced 90 degrees apart but in 4 groups of two closely spaced power strokes , keep in mind the twin cylinder banks on a V8 or V12 do not need to be angled at 90 degrees, 60 degree,120 degree blocks exist you get a VERY unique sound at higher RPMS with these layouts

chevy has just announced NEW versions of the vortec heads which are designed for increased flow and are similar to the FASTBURN heads but the new vortec 206cc heads are CAST IRON with a 64cc chamber PART # 25534371 bare# 25534431 assembled theres also a slightly improved 175cc version part# 25534351 read this http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/ these new heads are drilled and tapped for both old and new valve cover and both old and vortec style intakes, they have 2.00 intake and 1.55 exhaust valves and 65cc chambers GM has also released a new 383 425hp crate engine part # `12498772 25534431 Vortec Bow-Tie Large Port Cylinder Head, Complete GM Performance Parts' latest and most powerful iron cylinder head with "Large Port" for Street or Racing. This Vortec design Special Performance cast iron cylinder head features revised intake and exhaust ports and includes 2.00" hollow stem intake valve P/N 12555331 and 1.55" sodium filled exhaust valves P/N 12551313. The deck surface is .450" with 65 cc combustion chambers, 206 cc intake and 77 cc exhaust ports. All Vortec intake ports are taller and narrower than early model Chevrolet heads. The valve cover mounting holes are for both early model flange and late model center. This head also includes intake manifold mounting holes for both early model 6 bolt main and late model 4 bolt Vortec design. The head has screw in rocker studs P/N 12552126, large valve spring pocket machining, and will accept up to .530" lift camshafts without modifications. Heads are identified with the Bow-Tie logo on the exterior of the head below exhaust flange and Vortec logo on top of intake port area. They also feature GM logo cast into bottom of intake ports. Includes valve spring P/N 12551483, valve seal P/N 10212810, and spring cap P/N 10212808. Technical Note: You must use a raised runner design intake mainifold P/N 10051103 (6 bolt mounting), or Vortec design 12366573, 12496820, 12496821, 12496822, and 12499371 (4 bolt mounting) with this head. You can use production Vortec intake gaskets P/N 12529094 (torque spec. 11 ft-lb/ 15Nm) for mounting Vortec design heads or use P/N 12497760 (torque spec. 30 ft-lb) with conventional material when using on early model raised runner or Vortec design intake manifolds, this gasket has both 6 bolt and 4 bolt Vortec attaching holes. Head casting P/N 25534371C.

thanks GUYS! if you think of anything else please post, IM always willing to learn new stuff!

"So the bb and sb pumps are swappable?" yes! but thats not always a good idea, stock, or nearly stock engines won,t require it,even many race engines, as has been pointed out and oil pan clearance issues may prevent it in some application, theres ,heres an old post that has this discussed http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB64&Number=1129419&Searchpage=1&Main=1129364&Words=pump+grumpyvette&topic=&Search=true#Post1129419

Id need to point out that the differance between a standard and a high pressure pump is usually only the resistance in the bye-pass springs resistance, standard pumps generally have bye-pass springs that allow the bye-pass circuit too open at about 60psi-65psi HIGH PRESSURE pumps generally have bye-pass springs that allow the bye-pass circuit too open at about 70psi-75psi SPRINGS CAN BE SWAPPED! http://users.erols.com/jyavins/solder.htm http://www.tinmantech.com/html/faq_brazing_versus_soldering.html THE QUICK WAY TO IDENTIFY THE DIFFERANCE BETWEEN THE BIG BLOCK PUMP AND THE SMALL BLOCK PUMP IS THE SMALL BLOCK PUMP USES A 4 BOLT COVER AND SMALLER 7 TOOTH GEARS AND A 5/8" FEED TUBE FOR THE PICKUP THE BIG BLOCK PUMP IS THE BIG BLOCK PUMP USES A 5 BOLT COVER AND LARGER 12 TOOTH GEARS AND A 3/4" FEED TUBE FOR THE PICKUP THE DIFFERANCE BETWEEN A STANDARD VOLUUM AND A HIGH VOLUUM PUMP IS THE TYPE AND LENGTH OF THE IMPELLERS, BELOW THE IMPELLERS LENGTH IS SIMILAR, LONGER IMPELLERS AND LONGER PUMP BODIES ARE AVAILABLE braze the pick-up tube to the pump body so the pick up is 3/8" MINIMUM, 1/2" maximum from the oil pan floor and use a large lump of MODELING CLAY (every mechanic should have some its great for checking clearances)on the pickup then install the pan temp. with no gasket and remove to measure the thickness of the clay your local arts/craft store sells it in 1 lb blocks I usually use brite blue or black but suit your self, a digital caliper or even a ruler will get you the thickness measurement your looking for) http://store.yahoo.com/teacher-parent-store/modelingclay.html http://www.guildcraftinc.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=102-500 once its correctly possitioned ,remove the bye pass spring and gears from the oil pump,and have the pick-up brazeD or welded to the pump body, then after it SLOWLY AIR cools (DON,T DROP IT IN WATER LET IT AIR COOL)replace the byepass spring and gears, lube the pump,with assembly lube on the gears, check the clearances, check clearances again! and install! just be damn sure its brazed or welded in the correct location as that 3/8"-1/2" is critical to good oil voluum feeding the pick-up http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm silver soldering is basically lower temp brazeing , the soldering metal flows over the surface and into micro cracks in the surace of the other metal forming a almost unremoveable bond to the other metals surface it allows you to stick iron to steel or brass to steel, it works more or less like normal solder does on copper but at higher temps and has a much stronger grip in addition too working on iron and steel I vastly prefer the 5 BOLT BBC style pumps with the 12 tooth gears and thier larger 3/4" pick-up VS the small 4 bolt pumps with thier 5/8" pick-ups and 7 tooth gears. the oil flow is both higher pressure at low rpms and smoother in pulse presure spread,no! you don,t need it on a non-race combo, or even on some race combos but its nice to have and I willingly will loose a few hp pumping oil for better engine lubracation

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/629333/an/0/page/0#629333 heres a thread (ABOVE) that will answer most of your nitrous questions (BELOWS your combo) 385 sbc Forged 4340 crank forged 4340 6" H beam rods Forged JE ultra light pistons 11.0 to 1 compression Comp cams camshaft 236/242 duration-520/540 lift, 4 degrees advanced, with 110 lobe seperation. Cam card is XR288HR-10 1.60/1.50 roller rockers bring lift up to 553/540. Canfield 200cc heads with cnc chambers/bowls blended and full radius valve job 1000 miles ago. Victor jr. intake/port matched. Holley/Proform 750 dp carb- jets are 75 primary and 81 secondary. Hooker super comp long tubes 2.5" dual exhaust with H pipe. Transmission Built 1989 Corvette 700r4 with a 9.5" Edge racing converter 3500rpm stall. 1987 300ZXT 3.70 LSD rear end B.F. Godrich drag radials 235/60-15's obviously you did your homework, as its well matched, if it was my car ID seriously consider a 150-250 hp nitrous set up with direct port injector foggers and a nitrous controller..........and retarding your current cam to 4 degrees retarded, BTW, theres just no way to get that much of a boost in power for any where close to the money N/A I found adding a nitrous system to my 383 corvette to be one of the most effective mods I ever made, my combo is similar to yours , ported trickflow heads,11:1 cpr crane 119661 hydrolic roller cam,extensively ported stealthram intake, with nitrous BTW youll get the best results running a solid lifter roller cam specifically designed for nitrous but your current cam should work fine!, youll be wasting a few hp to pumping losses comp[ared to a nitrous design but Im sure youll be impressed with the nitrous anyway,once you get it dialed in correctly, (think retarded ignition, timing,controller, and rich mix) http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3771&prmenbr=361 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3776&prmenbr=361 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3866&prmenbr=361 I run a 200hp nitrous system on my corvette and have for several years with no problems at all,(other than twisting off drive train parts very regularly) but I am very careful to retard ignition timing and kept the mix ratio at the richer end of the range at close to 12:1 and check the plugs very carefully and worked up in 25 hp jumps/stages from a 50hp to the 200hp level the only reason I don,t increase past that is it currently breaks drive line parts regularly and Im currently building a new garage so all my money/efforts are concentrated on the garage currently