grumpyvette

solid roller lifters tend to be lighter and cost less, but as the cam manufacturer pointed out the lobes ramp varies mis-matching components seldom works correctly (yeah Ive done it, but I quickly smartened up and bought matched components) Im forced to point out that youll be better off using a cam DESIGNED for solid roller lifters and that the push rods may need to be a differant length as the roller lifters themselfs may be differant heights as well as changing the valve springs when you swap lifters. Ive generally had better results with CROWER and ISKY solid roller lifters (IE) they lasted longer under high rpm stress it really is not worth the differance in cost saved vs the potential problems you may have mis matching components http://www.compcams.com/Technical/CurrentCatalog/HTML/282-289.asp http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml http://www.iskycams.com/durathon.php

notice the CADDY V8 ENGINE in the car has the distributor in the FRONT OF THE ENGINE, (one reason its a good canidate for the swap!)

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/All%20Transmissions.htm http://www.montygwilliams.com/ (look under transmission mods)

that 454 EFI engine looks fairly LAME but it has hidden qualities, the main one is the $3500 cost for a new complete engine, its supposted to be a roller cam,low compresion combo and adding a turbo charger.........well lets say its a reasonably cheap base to build o tq monster with the correct parts http://http:/chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/48499/ btw some info to read http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/89618/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/89643/ http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93620 http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg7.pdf http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg23.pdf http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg27.pdf big block info you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1...1234339-0571324 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books heres more bbc info, but don,t let the guys make you think only oval port heads work well! it totally depends on your combo,s rpm range,displacement,gearing,weight,cam timeing,etc http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/ http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm http://www.protopline.com/racingaluminumbbc.asp http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/raceheadbbchev.html http://www.dragraceresults.com/worldcastings/ http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html general big block info! http://www.amotion.com/cbb.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/headbbchev.html http://roadsters.com/bbc/ http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi...CP/Chevy30.html http://www.mortec.com/location.htm http://home.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/pat...udd_article.htm http://www.bigblockchevy.com/Bittne...Alky1500Hp.html http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/7161pp.html http://www.onlineperformanceparts.c...les/ablock1.htm http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/ http://www.directhits.com/ChevyDynoReport.asp http://www.theengineshop.com/techinfo7.shtml http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/crank.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/diabolical540.html http://avs.epix.net/schorrperforman...hevyBB_290+.htm http://avs.epix.net/schorrperforman...ChevyBB_290.htm http://www.diabolicalperformance.co...mevalue468.html http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93650/ big blocks like more compression, bigger carbs and a slightly larger cam than small blocks if thats what your used to building btw

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/sales.html 1996-2000 Model 454 Factory Production Engine They’re back! We are putting 20 more of these engines on sale. Brand new - Fuel injected, exhaust manifolds, water pump, some sensors, distributor, automatic flexplate, and plugs and wires. You can use a carburetor on this engine, but yes, you need an intake and standard distributor. We have 20 more of these engines, we just obtained from GM, to offer to our web site visitors and for $95.00 less than the last time we had them on sale. Only 2 left now! This engine does not include the computer or wiring harness! These can be purchased and are available for non-factory installations. 1996-2000 Model 7.4L, V8, 295 HP and 385 Ft/Lbs Torque $3,500.00

the main reason blocks use siamese cylinder walls is due to clearance issues, the cylinder walls need to be about 0.200 thick,minimum, once the bore exceeds a certain size with the bore center spacing being standard for a certain series of engines, thats not possiable with water flow BETWEEN CYLINDERS, many chevy blocks have "siamesed" cylinder walls, this is not a significant disadvantage if the blocks cooling system (coolant flow)and the rest of the block was designed to move coolant that absorbs and removes heat to the radiator where its lost to airflow thru the cooling system, and as long as the (radiator, water pump,ETC) can remove heat at rates significantly faster than the engine can potentially generate heat, keep in mind well over 70% of the heat comes from the cylinder heads and upper 1.5" in the cylinders theres very little heat generated below the upper 1.5" in a cylinder in comparison heat is increased due to the combustion,& number of power strokes and the increased compression, so it would appear that race engines will generate greater heat, but race engines generally also have improved cooling and much higher airflow rates pulling heat from the radiators and better oil control,all of which tends to potentially allow more effective heat flow control http://www.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system2.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question622.htm

WHY IS IT THAT? "my car made a funny noise" NEVER SEEMS TO BE A GOOD THING????

most truck supply shops have a selection many marine stores and large hardware supply stores have or can order them just look for a minimum 2600lb- 3000lb LIFT RATED(higher is better) 3/8 or 1/2" FORGED parts below is one source http://www.samcosales.com/swivels.htm http://www.samcosales.com/shackles.htm http://www.samcosales.com/hooks.htm http://1st-chainsupply.com/hooks/gr80_slip_hooks.htm just look for 3000lb LIFT RATED 3/8 or 1/2" FORGED parts

I have owned an engine leveler similar in design to the harbor freight design for close to 33 PLUS years, ITs not made in CHINA, I bought it at an engine supply house in the 1970s and its been used for easily 100 plus engine pulls and its still in great shape,the links and swivels are necessary to eliminate any tendency to twist

personally I think pat kellys calc http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html is one of the best heres some differant calculators http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/cranking_pressure.shtml average the results I think the Wallace calculator much less acurate but i usually use all 5 and average the results KNOWING it may be slightly high but that tends to keep you out of serious detonation problems keep in mind the DCR is not an EXACT CPR value that you reach and above that your into engine failure!,its a GUIDE that you use to evaluate your combo, use of things like aluminum heads, mpfi vs carbs,pollishing the combustion chanber and coating the piston surfaces, knock sensors, nitrous/alcohol injection,quench, tumble,swirl, ETC. all result in changes in detonation threshholds you engine may or may not run without detonation at 8.5:1 dcr, but its a good guess that exceeding that level with randomly choosen parts while using 87 octane fuel is usually a bad idea. Ive run 13.7:1 static cpr in a street engine, and without detonation, but there were several other factors in the engine combo that allowed it to work its the total combo and the way all the parts work with each other that makes or breaks a combos effectiveness

Ive used total seal rings in several engines, while I can,t say anything bad,as they worked ok, and Im useing them in my current 383 corvette engine, there was not any significant gains in HP that I could PROVE were due solely to the rings and they took a long time too seat correctly, for the cost increase they are not a big advantage http://www.totalseal.com/gaplesss.html Ive used them,(total seal) I think they are WAY overpriced I have seen about a 10hp advantage over normal rings in some cases youll need to make your own desision as to whether spending $70-$80 more on rings is worth maybe 10 hp to you! I DON,T think the extra cost is justified personally as a good set of standard rings works fine...keep in mind the standard ring gap thats 16-20 thousands on installation is far smaller at operating temps, in fact the rings almost touch durring opperating temps and how much can leak past during the 1/20-1/60th of a second a power stroke takes anyone had a differant experiance with gapless rings????

I was asked to repost this info engine lifting plate safe? usually, yes! if your asking do they drop the engine... BUT PERSONALLY I think its a NO BRAINER! Ive used PLATES in swaps done at some of my friends shops, they bolt with (4) 1/4" or in some cases (4) 5/16" studs in my opinion they flat out are dangerous compared to a tilter that bolts with 3/8" bolts anchored in the courners of the cylinder heads and very difficult to use compared to a good engine tilter like this one below, while the plate seems attractive at $8 compared to $25-$30 or more for a tilter/leveler I have seen the plates destroy manifolds on two occasions by cracking carb mount pads and bending carb studs, especially if the intake is old with coroasion on the stud threads, (4)1/4" or 5/16" studs into aluminum intakes of questionable depth are no comparison to (4) 3/8" bolts into the cylinder heads, and the (4)head mounted 3/8" bolts are under shear and tension while the studs in the intake rely on the thread strength only I now bring my own tilter/leveler when going to a friends to do an engine swap and have YET to find anyone who after useing one that did not go out and by one! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=5402 LOOK THEY ARE ON SALE FOR $25, they are rated at 4000lbs vs 1250 lbs for the plate and they make life far easier durring an engine install at $25 they are a GREAT DEAL[/b] adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES) youll need two of these rated at similar load strength links like these are NEVER to be used under serious loads links like these ARE RATED for LOADS but never use less than a 3/8" steel link http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=2744465&showprevnext=1 but you need a serious safety margin most engines weight well under 900 lbs so a 200%-400% safety margin is advisable, youll want a minimum of a 2600-3000 lb load rated link, Ive used tempered steel 3/8" 3600lb AND 1/2" 4500lb links for years with zero problems if it costs under $12-$16 each ID think they were NOT load rated links load rated links have the manufacturers name and load rating stamped on the link, and are generally sold seperately not from bulk pack boxes links like these can be found rated at 5-10 tons or more

NO they were not ALL FWD some 472-500 caddys were RWD,cars and ALL those engines can be bolted to TH400 transmisions with the correct bolt pattern check some of the links, 400hp/500 ft lbs is easy to get,redline depends on components used but stock 5000 rpm is about max this cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Auto&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CADILLAC&Year=1970&Engine_Size=368-500%20C.I.&partNumber=1020631&partType=camshaft and this intake Cadillac 472-500 V8 Performer Cadillac (idle-5500 rpm) This Performer is designed for 1968-76 Cadillac 472 and 500 cubic-inch engines. For either square- or spread-bore carbs, #2115 is the first intake designed specifically for high-performance Cadillacs using standard heads. Like all Edelbrock Performers, this manifold increases torque and horsepower from idle to 5500 rpm. The broad power band is ideal for high-performance street and engine swap applications. Specs on this non-EGR manifold include a carb pad height that’s 3" taller than stock. Dropped divider wall evens air/fuel ratio throughout the rpm range. Stock air conditioning compressor will not fit. Performer Cadillac .....#2115* work well together parts are available http://www.powerpro2000.com/lb_cadillac.htm http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html http://users.elknet.net/mts/page14.html

maybe this helps http://www.airflowresearch.com/ (articles)(plan of attack) and http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/index.cfm http://www.montygwilliams.com/ http://www.turbofast.com.au/links.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/flowmaps.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html make damn sure they understand which turbo flow map, intercooler , heads,compression ratio,fuel octane, boost controller, waste gates,ETC are being used, if they don,t ask YOU need to ASK for someone who understands why it makes a differance BTW Brad-ManQ45 is correct, CRANE and CROWER do alot of turbo cam builds

IM amazed that theres not several 472-500 CADDY V8 powered (Z) cars, engine size is between the small block and big block chevy, weights closer to the small block, , they came with turbo 400 trans attached in some of the cars headers flanges are available, and 500 ft lbs of tq and 375 hp is so easy to get its ludacris, engines are cheap in salvage yards http://www.500cid.com/ http://www.caddyinfo.com/ http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9364/ http://www.chrfab.com/Engines.htm comments??

more ignition related info links http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system1.htm http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/ignition.htm http://www.motocross.com/motoprof/moto/secontent/seign/ignprin/ignprin.htm http://www.northwestautorepair.com/ignitionsystem.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/index.html heres other options http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/ http://www.msdignition.com/ http://www.proformparts.com/catalog/distributors_GM.html http://www.atlanticspeed.com/store/MSD%20Chevrolet%20Distributors.asp http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IS/ISD/ISD.html http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmdui.htm Spark plug /ignition info http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/car_truck_suv/default.asp?nav=60000&country=US http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.applink.net/cct/tips/plugwires.html http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.ngkspark.com.au/spark_plug_cross_ref_chart_index3.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.projectbasketcase.com/menus/ignition.html http://www.gofastzone.com/techtips/Spark%20Plugs%20Cross%20Reference/Spark%20Plug%20Cross%20Reference.htm http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/advance.html]http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/advance.html]http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/advance.html http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/43300]http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/43300/]http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/43300 http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp]http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp]http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/ignition_timing.htm]http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/ignition_timing.htm]http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/ignition_timing.htm http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/45673]http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/45673/]http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/45673 http://www.lmengines.com/Ignition_Timing.htm]http://www.lmengines.com/Ignition_Timing.htm]http://www.lmengines.com/Ignition_Timing.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm]http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm]http://www.73-87.com/garage/hei.htm [image]http://www.73-87.com/garage_photos/disremov/firingorder.jpg[/image] OPTISPARK info http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0310htp_optispark/ http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html http://www.gulicks.com/vette/projects/opti/index.html http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/ http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm http://www.corvetteclinicinc.com http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758

http://www.msdignition.com/1ignitions.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IS/ISD/890-xxx.html while you may only get a slight increase in ignition system effectiveness over the stock ignitions,with just a coil upgrade the MSD or HOLLEY multi strike ignitions like the MSD 6AL which I use matched to a MSD distributor or HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR (I PREFER THE HOLLEY DISTRIBUTORS MATCHED TO THE MSD CONTROLER AND COIL)THE coil DOES increase spark ,the distributor and MSD controller give you BOTH lower emmissions due to the low rpm multi strike ignition which is more effective at preventing the plugs fouling at low rpms and its stronger spark at higher rpms tends to limit misses in those upper rpms now you probably will not get any huge power increase, gains in the 2-4 hp range are comon, but upgrading the ignition does tend to make tuning easier and you seldom have ignition problems if you install the complete matched ignition system, something that you can,t say about a points ignition or CHEVYs HEI in many cases

this should help http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html http://www.nastyz28.com/perftune.html http://www.shockley.net/holley-jets.asp http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

basically its simple, do a burn out then look closely at the black tire track, if the outer edge is darker it usually means your tire pressures LOW if the track shows the center darker theres usually too much tire air pressure (higher than IDEAL)the tire track left should be full tread width and equally black accross the entire width your tires construction will have a huge effect on results and its rare for both tires to have exactly the same reqirements simply because the engine places a differant load on each, but Id start with about 22-24 PSI and work up or down from that point as the tire tread marks lead you keep in mind doing burn out HEATS the tires and raises the tires air pressure so the tires air pressure drops slightly sitting in line waiting for the next run BTW look at TRACTION COMPOUNDS http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3897&prmenbr=361 no! before you bother to ask, bleach does not work just as effectively

oil temps should reach a minimum of 215F to burn off moisture and lubricate correctly, oil tends to break down at temps over about 250F for mineral oils and about 280F for synthetics, so keep that in mind coolant temps should be kept in the 190F-210F RANGE. transmission fluid tends to work better in the 180F lower range because higher temps tend to lower trans life

while your correct that twin 2.5" feeds have a greater cross section than a single 3" and a single 3.5" would be better matched a single 3" will be reasonably effective and not too restrictive simply because the exhaust voluum will cool/condense by the time it gets that far, yeah a 3.5" will be better but not mandatory and at some point compromises due to clearances/packaging room become critical the baffles don,t pose a huge restriction in a 3.5" single exhaust,and I doubt the muffler will be necessary, using the spiral baffles,in a 3" single your probably better off running the muffler without the baffles I don,t see why you want a single exhaust over a full length dual exhaust with an (X) installed close to the collectors, the dual exhaust has advantages in that you can use dual mufflers, lowering the total restriction in the system yeah it costs more but its low restriction and on a 331 displacement you could even get by with a full 2.5" system with the (X) splitting the flow and lowering the restriction.

"WHEN DOES A CAR BECOME A RACE CAR FROM A STREET CAR?! " when you reach the point in your mods where you can,t take a 300-400 mile trip of combined city traffic and highway driving, running street pump gas with any reasonable hope of making the trip without problems and/or can,t be, legally driven on the road.

twin 2.5" feed exhaust pipes to the twin entrance pipes of the (Y) from the collectors to a 3" single exhaust with the spiral baffles installed should be easily large enought for a 331 displacement and yeah the baffles work like a muffler to some extent but it will be loud, if its too loud for your taste add one of those 3" mufflers. I don,t see why you want a single exhaust over a full length dual exhaust with an (X) installed close to the collectors http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4550989354&category=34203

if I was doning it ID skip the areo mufflers and the cone alltogether header collectors to the (Y) and the spiro baffles in the comon rear larger pipe would be the total system

theres two major factors working on that,layout idea, first the FURTHER from the collectors you place the mufflers the cooler and more dense the exhaust flow becomes and the lower the effective restriction to that flow on any given exhaust size. you want the exhaust to scavage the cylinders and mufflers tend to (by design) break up pulse harmonics that can be used to enhance cylider scavaging, cylider scavaging that the headers are there to promote. you want as little restriction at the collectors as you can get. next the restriction effectively drops off significantly as the pipe inside dia. increases after an (X) pipe on a dual system or a (Y)on a single exhaust that will have a cross section area at least close to the cross sectional area of both collectors, IF your designing a single exhaust,ideally youll want the twin header collectors to enter a (Y) to blend the pulses and not use an (H) and the single exhaust behind the (Y) should have a cross section area at least close to the cross sectional area of both collectors,then one of these slipped inside a 3.5" exhaust pipe should pose little if any effective restriction to a 302-331 displacement engine, especially if its as far back as possiable from the (Y) to allow the exhaust too cool and reduce its voluum, the (Y) will help maintain the peak cylinder scavaging only if its before the mufflers http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/ this design may OR MAY not run quietly but it will effectively scavage the cylinders you may or may not even need a SINGLE muffler past the spiralturbobaffle but having the room to install a system designed like that could be a potential problem some guys have found that welding in a restriction cone listed below in each of the header collector tail pipes exiting the headers before the exhaust pipes leading to each muffler helps with the sound http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/ http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/dynatechdragstore/vortex.cfm http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?query=header+flanges&newu=1&krd=1?keyword=header+flanges http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/Collectors.htm http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeCollectors/mergecollectors.html http://www.cachassisworks.com/header.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESHHA/SplitFlow.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESHHA/Cutaway.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESHHA/HPipe.html http://store.summitracing.com/section.asp?d=8&s=577 And... http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/exhausttubesizes.cfm