nullbound
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Posts posted by nullbound
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cool, thanks for the info
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wow, another nice choice. did you have to do anything special to fit the 240 bumpers?
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nice photoshop work. sato's car is amazing.
originals:
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Borla XR-1 Raceline.
word.
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cool, good info! i'm interested in seeing how to use the two speed fan with that kit and the extra relay. thanks!
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The pics aren't coming in for me...
try logging out and logging back in. i've had this problem before with the pics showing as the notorious red x. it happens on occasion, but logging out and back in seems to solve the problem whenever i've had it.
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was it called the blue max?
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i remember the green machine... but, that's not what you are talking about. it had handles that you moved to drive it. someone told me recently that huffy was going to re-release the green machine.
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sorry man, i cant sell them. i'll either use this spare set on the 280 daily driver or later on my orange 240. if i use them on the 280, i'll be in the market for another set for the orange 240 project after i finish the silver 240 and what i'm doing to the 280.
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what's required to put 240 bumpers on a 280? will the stock early 240 bumper brackets bolt onto the stock location for the 280 brackets? i tried to search for this topic after reading this thread... i recall glancing over the topic sometime within the last year. i seem to even recall someone, maybe fl327(?), mentioning he was going to make brackets for the rear to be able to mount the 240 rear bumper on a 280. i'm thinking of putting my spare set of euro bumpers on my 280 daily driver. and info here is greatly appreciated
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thanks for putting me on the right track, david karey!! i disconnected the throttle position sensor on my car and noted zero change. however, when plugging it back in, the problem went away. the switch itself wasnt bad, but the connection to it was. when i reconnected, i actually pushed the plug in a little farther than it was, as well as wiggled it a bit. i disconnected the switch again and cleaned the terminals on the switch itself, as well as the plug. i also put some dielectric grease on the terminals. the problem was that there was some corrosion on the terminals that was preventing a good connection with the tps. problem solved in my case!! i dont think the car has run this good since 1978
thanks again! -
i replaced the vaccuum lines on mine last night and it helped some, but it's still not exactly right. it still gives the stutters and pops. i know that one of the lines was leaking now and am glad to get that out of the equation.
i'll do the check you suggested david for the tps. thanks for the tip!!
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i'm actually having similar problems with my '78 280 daily driver. it idles fine, but giving it gas gets the pops and stutters until it's revved past 3000 rpms. it accelerates fine if i floor it all the time. normal driving, or anything in traffic, and i get popping through the intake. i had to richen my fuel mixture quite a bit and advance the timing to get it to run better than it was. but, it's still not great.
i was planning on replacing my vaccuum lines... one of mine, (the one that runs from the charcoal cannister to a 't,' and then to the throttle body and distributor) is dry and hardened and seems slightly suspect. i'm hoping that's the problem in my case anyway.... any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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i believe you can get them through mufflex if i'm not mistaken... though i dont see them listed on the site. i seem to recall seeing an ad in a magazine showing oval tubing from them.
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i agree with davidh. it only sounds reasonable as an 1/8th mile time, not quarter.
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beautiful work!!
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i'll second tim's suggestion yet again.
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i'd have to second that recommendation about bowtie overdrives. they really know their stuff. the amount of details and documentaion, as well as the quality of work they did on the tranny i ordered is over the top.
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there are so many things wrong with that i wouldnt know where to start...
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nick, you're more than welcome!
i'm happy to help!! and, at the same time, thank you for sharing the details!!! i'm glad to have been able to read the writeups for your project, as well as to set it up where everyone else here could see. what i did was very basic, as far as webpage design. i'll try to clean it up some this weekend, or whenever i get a chance. i'll email you later with another email address to use for sending the photos. and i'l probably be contacting you later to get in touch with your wheel specialist -
hey guys,
i put together a very simple, basic webpage to post the writeups that nick made for his z club. i'll try to do a little more work to it this weekend and add more of the pics from classiczcars.
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that's great that the old pump mounting loop will work with the carter. while you're at it.... just kidding.
sorry, i cant see your new pic now. up until you asked about this, i saw the pic where you were sitting in the engine bay.
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tim, if you have the packaging and can give me the part number, then that would be greatly appreciated. if not, i'll do like you said and talk to the guys at the counter. either way, thanks very much for your input!
flash, you can use the existing wiring with your car if the wiring is still good. all you need is a ground and an positive accessory line for the pump, same as the stock pump in your car. i'm adding to and redoing some of the wiring in my car... and i got the painless kit for a really good price
did you get an inline fuel filter to go before your pump?
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actually, tim, it's funny you mention that. i was just trying to figure out what to use for mine... i basically want exactly what you described, the pair of studs with a rubber isolator bonded between them. do you have any kind of part number or info on what kind of mercedes that came from?
Well, time to put something REALLY weird here.....
in Non Tech Board
Posted
and he only lasted for a short time with that frosty spray, as it was burning his skin.