BlueStag

I suppose I should be posting this over at "driveline" but for some reason I cannot start a new topic there. Is there a list of numbers applied to the various transmissions installed on L6 Zs anywhere?

Yeah, my MAPP torch was not going to get the job done, I am nearly sure an experienced welder with an OxyAct rig would be required to get enough heat going. I'll have it at the shop soon enough. I would not be surprised to see them pull out an 18" vice grip and wrench it right off.

From elsewhere on the site: "Detailed experiences online show that modified SU carbureted L28s on 93 octane seem to max out around 160-170 at the rear wheels (210 hp flywheel)." Essentially a NA 2.8L with SU's will be doing good to put 165hp to the wheels.

About 165hp? I think you will find a very similar engine described here: http://datsunzgarage.com/dyno/index.htm

I am inclined to agree, but open flames concern me, and the block is one enormous heat sink, I don't think even the largest heat gun is going to deliver heat as fast as the block can draw it away.

Yes, the pipe wrench did not bite. I'm an electrician but I have done enough plumbing to be able to work a pipe wrench, I'm gonna say the blasted thing in in there but tight. I'm sure that anything like a punch would just snap.

A good idea but there is not a very good angle of attack. And I don't want to be creating lots of metal shavings, this engine is installed and I don't want to take it out and hot tank it!

Still not a lot of room. I had to fabricate a pair of engine to mount adapters back in the day. The one just ahead of the oil filter also has a big lug to assist in hoisting the engine in and out. I'm pretty sure this is going to come down to stuffing a bolt down the center of the existing nipple and welding it in place.... Although I will be applying some heat from my heat gun and whacking it.

And do you think there is any chance the oil residue will ignite if a torch is presented to it?

Not LOTS of room to work. I tried a big pipe wrench, no luck. My largest vice grips are not huge.

If I don't have it out by Monday I'll take it to a shop and they can weld a bolt to it..... Stuff it down the bore and weld it but good and then get an air wrench on the blasted thing. My shop is good about those sorts of things. They tend to charge less the more interesting the problem is. Anyone near Burbank CA would be well advised to know them: Tyerman's on Magnolia.

OK, now I am screwed. For those following my little saga, I swapped a Z drivetrain into my Stag some many years ago. When I bought my house, the stag went up on stands for near-on a decade. When I tried to remove my oil filter it was frozen to the nipple; it had gauled itself to the nipple. When I removed it it left all sorts of metal in the threads, and running a die over it accomplished nothing. I recently bought a new nipple for a swap out. Now I cannot budge the dratted original one out of the block, and of course have thrashed the threads: there will be no running a filter back on that one. I have some pretty big tools to grab the damned thing, but it is not budging. Thoughts?

It took me about half a year to put an L6 into my Triumph Stag. Assuming that you have other things you need to do on occasion, work, make woopie with the wife, glare at the kids, you will be doing well to get it done in 6 months. Again, assuming you have no experience of such a thing. Good to be going down a path that is well trod, unlike what I attempted. That will help.

The pics of Glenn's engine bay illustrate the correct position of the master cylinders and the brake booster. I have my brake booster and master about 1 1/2" away from the center line compared to stock. Otherwise the stock 240Z air cleaner box will not open up. Actually, I have over a 1/4" to spare. And I have two sets of phenolic spacers between the carbs and the manifolds, I could delete one. And while I am changing out the transmission, possibly I could move the engine and trans to the right by about 3/4"? I think I will call that a plan for now. Now all I need to do is source the trans and flywheel at a price that does not get me killed by the wife.

I just sourced the correct pedals for a manual arrangement on a stock Stag, although I still need to resolve the conflict between the brake master cylinder and the air cleaner. At a crazy price, too. They are rarer then hens' teeth. $25 for the pair.

Not yet. It is a longish way off for me.

France? You bastard! Have you had any duck confit yet?

Hmmm. Blue, you speak with wisdom beyond your years. Hey, when are you going to come round and drive my Stag?

Guys, So, I am still pondering swapping out my automatic trans for a 5 sp (Datusn drive in my Triumph Stag) One issue that I have had is that the air cleaner box cannot come off the back plate without having the brake pedal and the pedal box about an 1 1/2 to the left of stock, meaning that there is no room for a clutch pedal. Datsun fitted excellent air horns to the back plate, and I don't want to do without them. I could perhaps cut the air box and back plate such that they only just cover the filter, but I am not sure that would solve anything, and that would increase the temperature of the air the carbs are consuming. I'm seriously considering altering the way the backplate secures to the carbs: Drill out the threads in the carbs and have a bolt pass thru the front carb at the front, and the rear carb at the rear, threaded into nuts welded onto the backplate The original wing nuts that hold the air cleaner to the back plate would still do that, but the receiver nuts would be set aside and a pair of coupling nuts welded to the backplate. I wonder if I will get enough of a seal of the back plate to the carbs if I am only securing it with two bolts, front and back?

I have a better pic, but am struggling to get it posted.

I think a remote reservoir might help. Got a lead on one that would perform well with a Dutsun Slave cylinder?

Ask and yea shall receive:

Picked up some very rare fittings at Luky's a while back, and the driveshaft place that you mentioned has made me two driveshafts: one to tie the Datsun engine/trans to the Triumph diffy, and the second to tie the engine to a new Datsun diffy a year later.

The driveshaft is custom indeed, as it is fitted not to a Datsun, but to a Triumph.

One issue that might not be obvious is that I mounted my L6 all the way back against the firewall practically. Which created a conflict between the SU air cleaner box and the brake master. I was forced to mount the brake pedal box and the brake master about an 1 1/2" to the left of stock, meaning that a clutch cylinder will be nearly impossible to fit and the pedal as well.... The Datsun SU aircleaner is a very effective unit with good air horns and a good cold air intake that fits right against my front bulk head, in which I have cut a good air hole. I gotta figure out how to fit a clutch master cylinder. I'd like to move the box back to where it belongs, but I don't know how I'll be able to remove the air cleaner....