dat240zg

Thanks guys. I guess the hybrid is for me! Now, if I can just get someone to buy that other kidney..... Seriously, thanks SleeperZ. Is Turbonetics a good place to start shopping?

Sorry, guess I meant to say is there a factory application that would bolt up with minor mods..... The thing that got me questioning was that I was looking for a turbo rebuild kit and noticed that Mitsubishi produced some of the t-3's and t-4's (or at least according to the info on the site). If that was the case then I thought that maybe one of the factory apps may work? No Luck? Bryan

Guys: Is there a turbo that can be bolted up to the stock manifold on the l-28t with a minimal amount of work that is better (more efficient, etc.) than the stock t-3? The junkyard motor is going in the 240 this weekend and when I was looking it over more closely and noticed alot more play than will be acceptable. Any thoughts? Bryan

What's the status on the Z that you were working on that had the custom metal bodywork? The drawing and the work in progress looked pretty sharp! Bryan Dat240ZG

Guys: Located a 200 SX with the v-6 package (believe it's the SE?) and auto tranny. Is this the correct rear end to get 4.11 gears? Thanks for the help and info! Bryan Dat240zg

Scotty: Before this 240, I had a '90 Talon AWD/Turbo and had put the K&N on it with a manual boost controller. Some of the guys with really strong motors and way high boost were turning mid to high 13's, but no one that I knew of was turning 12's w/out a 16G and other mods. With my set up, I was running the high 13's/low 14's and that was ragging the heck out of it. Don't think that he was just pushing 18 lbs of boost....

Guys: Im having some trouble with the vacuum set up on the new 260 A/C system in my '240. Everything is hooked up properly except for the friggin "Dash Pot"!!!! What the HECk is the Dash Pot??? Without it, all that I have is vent, and with the recent 2nd flood that we've had, half my time is spent driving, the other wiping the windshield (no defroster ) Anyone with a little wisdom to share??? Please?!?!? Thanks. Bryan Dat240zg

Glad To. I've tried to write up a FAQ that one of these days I'll get around to typing up for everyone. Off of the top of my head, here goes: - I've used the controls off of the '74. - To lessen the amount of new brackets I had to make (I don't have a shop or anything, but still wanted perfection) I used the blower housing from the 240 and mated it to the 260 blower. - In order to use the 260 a/c wiring harness, I enlarged the hole on the top of the blower housing where the sensors go (not certain what their official name is) to fit the 260 sensors in the 240 housing. - I made one bracket for the bottom where the base of the system mounts to the tranny tunnel. - The most painful part was drilling the 4 holes for the A/C lines (on the drivers side) and the heater temperature control unit (where the heater hoses pass through the firewall). The last was the most painful as the holes for the 260 heater hoses were just about an inche and a half to the left of the 240 holes. After this, everything bolted right up . I had the luxury of the 260 wiring harness, so I traced down every wire, bracket, etc related to the AC. Had the brackets powdercoated, new vacuum lines, new AC lines and had to have the AC evaporator lines changed a little to fit the radiator support holes on the 240. As far as the final details, I sanded the edges of the 260 AC face plate just a little, to follow the shape of the 240 dash. It meant taking approx. 1/8 of an inch of plastic off at the top corners of the 260 face plate and smoothing it to clear two screws inside the 240 dash (one on either side). I then replaced the dash, hooked everything up (vent hoses, etc.) and am in the process of having the system charged right now. My 240 face plate was already cracked in several places, so I cut the face plate below the vent and re-installed it. I'm having a local interior shop create a trim piece for the control panel and the radio area. I like the look of the orginal lite and vent and will probably stick with it. The only problem I have found is that the underside of the actual control unit from the 260 has various switches and cables that hang down. That together with the A/C drain pipe that goes out to the tranny tunnel means that space for a radio is fairly tight, depth wise. I'm gearing up for the turbo swap, so instead of placing my stereo back in the usual place, I'm using that space for a turbo timer and several other gauges. For the radio, I made a bracket to mount in out of site in the glove box, where I still have enough room for my CD's and all of the other junk that gets tossed in there. A side benefit is no obvious easy prey for anyone to try to rip off. Soorry for the length! If you guys have any other questions or want pics, let me know and I'll do my best to get you the info. Later! Bryan Dat240zg Oh, BTW, anyone know if there's another blower that will bolt in? Thanks.

Guys: It's finally done!!! Got the swap finished yesterday and it actually works!!! I was able to swap in the entire HVAC stack from a 260 into my '70. Only problem is that once I got power and tested the blower, it squeals like crazy. Anyone know if there is a more powerful direct replacement for the blower motor? Thanks. Bryan Dat240zg

OK Turbo Gurus...I'm in need of help. Finally got my turbo motor(s) and all needed for the swap. My questions are 1. Is there a performance difference between the P-90 and the P-90A head? I have motors with both, is one better than the other? 2. I've collected several pics from turbo swaps and the majority of them have a lot less clutter on the intake manifold than my motor. Which of the plugs, vacuum hook ups, wires and things like that do I need to leave on? 3. Right now, I have the stock fuel pump setup on my '70. Do I need to go to a higher output pump than what I have as well as one of the '75/'76 gas tanks? BTW, I already read the Z Club website article on the swap, but was still uncertain. If any of you who have already done the swap are available to answer any questions, it'd mean alot. Thanks Bryan Dat240ZG

I've been hearing that the Toyota caliper upgrade will not fit on early Z's with the '81 ZX Turbo wheels (the Honeycomb/Snowflakes). Something about the caliper rubbing on the wheels. Anyone experienced this or have any info? I was getting ready to do the switch, but now I'm holding. I've searched, but cant find any past references. Thanks Bryan Holmberg Dat240ZG bholmberg@fayar.net

RacerX: Thanks for the reply. I've gone back and looked at your posts on body work and any tips that you can give me will make my day. I'm not familiar with fiberglass parts prep work or what is needed to bond something like a rear spoiler to the hatch. I'm not a fan of poor fitment, so I'd like to do it the right way. I'll get pics up by this weekend and then???? Thanks for your wisdom. Dat240zg

Guys: Yesterday my wife gave me my b-day gift: the MSA front spoiler w/out vents and the rear low profile spoiler. Did I marry a good one or what??? The front is no problem, but the back looks like it will take some work to get to fit right. Anyone already gone down this road before? In the catalog, the gaps on the side of the wing where it lines up with the body are a lot smaller than mine, from when I test fitted it. I have almost a 1/2" gap. Anyone help? Thanks Dat240ZG

I've got a pic of a kit that was offered in the mid to late '80's that transformed (or something like that) a 240-2?80 Z into a pretty good imitation of a Shelby Daytona Coupe. I don't have any info beyond the pic - which I'll try to get scanned. Anyone know anything about it?

Just got finished installing a new suspension for my 240 this past weekend, but I've got this nagging feeling in the back of my head that won't quit. I used Tokico's, Suspesion Tec sway bars, and Eibach Progressive springs. When they arrived, there were no papers or anything in them to state which were front or rear, and more importantly, which is up or down. Called MSA and they said to install it with the Eibach print on the spring right side up. Does that sound right? Now that they are on, the fronts have the tighter wound coil at the bottom and the rears have the tighter wound section on the top...Is this normal. The car sits right and looks right. Haven't been able to test it yet, because no exhaust on the car... Any thoughts?

Guys: Recently installed the Crane 700 ignition and LX 91 coil on my '70. Since then, I've gone from one problem to another. Before, the car was timed right and ran fairly well. After, I had problems with the car not starting (sounded like the battery was dead) - if I push started it, it ran great! Adjusted the LED a little and got it to start better, ran OK, but super rich and it strangles at the high end. What the Heck!! Before installation, car was baseline timed, splitfire plugs and taylor wires were installed. Anyone have any tips or experience they can share? Thanks in advance....

Guy's: I'm getting ready to do the ZX-T swap into my '70. No problems with the mechanicals, but I'm uncertain about the wiring side of the swap. Anybody come up with a manual or some notes on the swap that they wouldn't mind sharing? BTW, if someone has come up with the notes, why not publish and sell (kind of like the JTR V-8 swap)? Just a thought. Dat240ZG

Try Moss Motors. They've got great customer service and even though their main focus is British cars, they're quick to help with whatever your're needing. Here's the link to their British car mirrors page: http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=32012&PlateID=3596 Their quality is good and the prices aren't to shabby. Dat240zg