Gritz
-
Posts
251 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Gritz
-
-
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Roll-Racing12-Viper-Turbo_164205.htm
A friend of the blue 03 cobra came up from S.A. with a fully built 06 GT to beat me... it didn't work out so well for him.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Roll-Racing13-Blown-06GT_166599.htm
This civic went 11.3 @127. I was on pump gas and street tires.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Roll-Racing14-Turbo-Hatch_169099.htm
More to come. I hope you all enjoy.
Very cool man, i used to own a 1986 turbo z31...loved that car!!!
-
Younger brothers
As a Z owner I thought you'd know that newer is not always better
(2JZ>7M in performance, no doubts there, but in terms of soul, 7M wins by leaps and bounds)
In stock form jz's are better..but the 7m is a powerful motor and i aways knew that...
-
Poorly maintained ones previously owned by morons AREN'T! That motor was rebuilt properly to spec by a shop using a factory Toyota bottom end.
I don't know, honestly. The same reason people build 2JZ bottom ends? (None at all) Quite sure, dyno sheet and vids from a reputable member. 100+ track passes on the motor since it was rebuilt, all above 500rwhp, the 700 number is fairly recent so I can't comment on longevity just yet!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72016
Shouldn't need to log in to read it, as it's in general. I personally know two guys making well over 500rwhp that have been doing it for years with no issues, stock bottom end.
500hp is what i expected...but 700whp is a whole different story...good to know, that the old 7m is just as strong as the JZ brothers.....
-
www.supramania.com has more information and more knowledgeable people than any place listed yet.
7Ms are undersquare (83x91), 2Js are square(86x86). Both have a displacement of just shy of 3l, both have extremely tough factory internals. 2JZ heads flow a lot better, both stock and otherwise. In fact, a fully ported and +1mm oversize valve (biggest you can get) 7M head is still out flowed by a stock 2JZ head after 5500RPMs (might be 6500 RPMs, can't recall for sure). 7Ms come with under torqued head gaskets from the factory, and the oiling system leaves much to be desired.
That said, 7Ms aren't bad motors at all. Factory internals have been proven to hold over 700rwhp. They're also a LOT cheaper than a 2JZGTE, and very easy to find. An alternative to the expensive 2JZGTE is the 2JZGE-T, basically an NA-T setup. A thicker headgasket (at least 1.3MM, most use a 2MM) is used, and that's basically it. The factory motors have also been taken over 700rwhp (once the compression was lowered, of course). 2JZGE heads don't flow as much as the GTE heads, but they are still very good.
700+whp on stock 7m internals ...are you sure about that? If so for how long...im inclined to think if 7m's are so stout why even build them then?
-
Nice!
Are you using the supra or the soarer 1JZ?
Mario
This is a supra 1jzgte....
-
Today My dad and I got he 1jz into the s30, but it's only for mock up and is blocked up for now...Yesterday, I made a cross member from 1 1/2 box tubing and 1/4in thick( i think) angle iron....Now that the engine is in place i can put my cross member in place and make ajustments....I still have to make the actual mount on the CM, might do that tonight or tomorrow, hope to have pics of the cross member tomorrow...
check it out....It looks cozy!!!!
-
i dont trust anything that has to do with 2jzswap.com
Explain......
-
Nice motor and hot rhymes man! Holla!
Thanks and thanks!!! you car is killer also, any track times?
-
Just thinking out loud.. i wonder if i could modify a supra mk3 cross-member to work...Stay with me here...Being that the 260z already has a Cross-member that ties in the front end, the supra CM would only be used to hold the engine in place...I would have to measure the supra CM and even if it's longer than the 24in wide that the s30 frames rails are i could cut it down weld on "L" bracket then weld it to the frame rails.....Anyone have a pic of a late 89-90's MK III CM?
-
after you said you painted and all, but...
The two holed thing on the firewall needs to be moved back.
ok, for what reason?
-
Well as planned my brother and i pulled the engine today.....And what a mess it was...35 years of grim and dirt....
Pressure washed everything down...and finished with fresh coat of gloss black....sorry for the crappy pics... -
This is my proposed supercharger set up.
Just bought the turbo engine a couple of months ago so have a back up if I blow up the old 280 engine.
I don't like computers either. In most way I think I perfer points in the distributor and carbs. If it doesn't start I can always figure out what is wrong.
Thats cool..but one thing to remember when you turbo carb set-ups.. you don't need as much fuel as a stock n/a setup because the fuel is sucked in..My uncle had a turbo 305 in a montcarlo, he only needed a 650 carb to make the power you would need a 750 or better on a n/a setup...
-
I'm leaning toward the 1j at this point, simply because my hp goals are where yours are. I want to autocross, and have fun with it in the mountains. Keep it TT. The 91 supra is being stripped down for drag, so the 2j with a big single may be a better fit for that one. that's where my logic is right now anyhow...
You have awesome logic!!
-
Wow, let us know how that budget works for you. I have a 1jz, and a 2jz in my shop. I've got 7 months left in Iraq to decide which one to put in the Z... everytime I think i've made a choice, i change my mind for some reason. I guess that's a girl thing
Really can't wrong with either one...most here will say 2jz...but to me a 1jz has a perfect cathartics for a light car.. but being that you have both engines i guess the 2jz is the better choice....
-
If the gearbox has been on that engine since the factory,both will have come from a JDM Mk3 Supra,(the only other cars Toyota fitted the R154 to, Soarers and Chasers used the R154 with the longer extension housing)
Bargain price for the pair:lol: Just the box in this part of the world costs $1400-$2000+ and ECU for a manual very hard to find.
This is only a standard 1jz, not vvt like you have,,Also my engine set didn't come with a map sensor or igniter...which is about $250-$300 for the pair..still a ok deal...if the motor turns out to be good...
-
Can't wait!!!
-
Good job Grtiz! Nice to see that you are serious about the swap. 1jz is the only way to go!!
Thanks!! Im aiming for about 350-400whp So nothing to crazy..
So far the engine looks pretty good, although it did arrive with a broken tps housing..know where i can buy one? The oil looks very clean, spark plugs look pretty good, but i can tell it was running a little rich..Most of the sensors look brand new, coil packs the same...The harness look kinda ragged, but it is complete and uncut...The ECU looks fine, but i have not had a chance to open it up..The twins all spin freely with only minimum shaft play...This 1jz seems to be a second gen version because of the way the vent on the valve cover is designed, so it is a newer 1jz so thats all good....
Will prolly try to pull my l26 this weekend, and paint the engine bay...
I'm now trying to decide should i just pony up the money and buy the mounts i need of just make custom...I stared this project with the idea that i could do this swap for cheap..my budget was $3500-$4000 including the price of the car!!!! Now i know some of you may think that I'm crazy...but i am on my way...so far i have paid $600 for the car, and $2000 for the engine set..total of $2600 so that leaves me $1400 to get the 1jz in the car running good!!! Of course that is if everything goes as plan which rarely happens..
I believe in build to what the car is for...So i wont be spending money on fancy this and fancy that...I will imitate or maybe better stock design..for example a good piece of fuel line works fine as fuel line, don't need steal braided fuel line..lol...If i was building a track car then it would be diffrent...just clean stock form factor...
-
pics...56k beware...sorry
-
If you are using a standard 1jz-gte (91-93) you have to get a 2jz water pump if you are running ele fans correct?
-
it all depends on how much money you want to put in. personally, i dont know if an l28 can handle that kind of hp on stock internals. my guess would be no. but even if it could, i'd spend the money and replace the internals anyway. i'd rather be safe than sorry.
also, upgrading to turbo depends on your car setup already. will you have to buy a new fuel pump? pressure regulator? how nice do you want it to look? it's all money, and how much you are willing to spend to make it right.
... which is the stage i'm at. look up, research, read, test, ask, etc etc etc. and do my homework before i take any action. there was a 280zxt for sale here in so cal. complete car for $600. i was 1/2 tempted to go buy it for necessary parts. but then i have to think, will i need a bigger turbo than the T3 it came with? do i want a p90a head for the quieter lifters as compared to a p90. the car wouldnt turn over, what is wrong with it before the swap goes in? simple wiring problem or is it something worse like a fried ecu?... so i waited.
and part of it is, my z-mentor doesnt know much about the l28et's, all the racing he did with z's was in the late 70's, before the turbo car even came out.
all hail the internet?
this site was pretty helpful for me for the basics, and in getting a general idea of what could be used from stock and what would need to be upgraded and replaced.
ok, well thats sorta problem you might face with any engine...So far in this thread everyone seems to think doing a l28et is the cheapest route..which is the reason i ask that question.. i honestly didn't know...I think I'm still going to go with a 1jz..300whp for about $3000 installed is a pretty good bang for the buck.. and that will be reliable power..my goal is 400whp though but starting off with 300whp will hold me until i save enough to buy a good single turbo upgrade( 60-1 or gt35r)
Goog luck, post any new news!!
-
About how much would it cost to convert a l28 turbo...and would you have to rebuild to do so if your aiming for 350-400whp?
-
About the SCCA, you can go to their site, you can call them and talk to the staff, I am not going to do what you can do. It is as simple as you contacting them, what I told you about the rotary engine is a fact, and I am behind it 100%. If you want to corroborate that fact, contact SCCA, it is up to you, as easy as that.
Thank you for explaining my point to your Z audience. A piston engine and a rotary engine have the same cooling requirements and risks. A rotary engine is not prone to, nor has any engine tempereture problems inherent to it's design. Some people like to make phony statements about rotary engines, and say that rotaries overheat....among the list of ignorant comments.
Rotary engines are not the norm, because only one company was able to master it's design well enough to be marketable. Many tried, ( including Nissan/ Datsun ) , and most failed.
I am leaving this thread, it is obvious this is a ridiculous argument in which people take sides, when there is no side to take, these are combustion engines, options available.
Suddenly I become the enemy and the rotary engine is something to retort at.
Bon Voyage.
____________________________________________________________
Which is the reason i gave up...people will think one way...and not appreciate something for what it is..One thing for sure, there not many 1.3lt piston engines that can make 600whp-700whp....
-
-
With a 10K buget..I would go Ls1...
Ls1 6 speed motor set cost about 5k???? so it should be doable if you do all the work yourself
Pressure washed everything down...and finished with fresh coat of gloss black....sorry for the crappy pics...
my 1jz 260z
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
Yeah so far i have the shifter about the same place yours is at...I can shfit into any gear though with the interior in, so i might just keep it that way...it does kinda look funny though...