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Gritz

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Posts posted by Gritz

  1. paint 013

     

    Temperatures here set to hit 38C today thats close enough to 100F, second summer with only one 12 inch fan working,I live near the center of the city, 99% of driving is stop/start traffic light to traffic light,No over heating problems. must replace the dead relay in case the remaining one dies.

    these engines do not run hot.

     

    Thats good to know...I plan on running one 75 amp relay, 10 or 14 gauge wire and a summit fan temp adjustable switch..

     

    Just reconfirm what I'm thinking, do you remember how your wiring genius went about the charging system..adapting the 1jz altenator...

  2. I bought 2X12 inch thermo's of ebay, they came with thermo switches that are supposed to be fed down the top radiator hose, never had much luck with these things, found it easier to drill a hole the size of the sensor in the top tank, feed it in, the wire behind the sensor is usually thinner, get a piece of copper or brass about the size of a 1 cent piece, drill a hole in the centre the size of the sensor feed, hacksaw a cut from edge to centre hole, slip over the wire and silver solder to top tank, probably laws against defacing currency, but why not use a 1 cent piece? nice neat and round. Don't use more heat than you need to solder.

    2 fans? the sensors with cheap fans usually have a narrow switching band, if you need a few degrees separation between the fans coming on, put the second fan sensor into the bottom tank.

     

    Thanks shaggyz,as you have probably found out by now, this is a swap

    the village idiot can do, I did it!:icon6: anyone can.

     

    Cool thanks for the info..Im using one 4000 CFM ford Taurus fan with the stock radiator...Is your stock rad holding up?

  3. I am talking about the one that extends it about an inch or so, its the one the guys use for their s300's w/ r154 trans from a supra. I never purchased the piece, so I don't have one I can sell you. I just flipped my short shifter around backwards and now it feels like a perfect reach. You can buy one from my buddy Aaron at Driftmotion.com , as he sells a custom extension for the r154.

     

    I agree!! mine fits perfect, even with full interior...just fip around the shifter to make the throw closer..bam done!!! Just a warning though i think my engine is a inch or two closer than timbo...might have to trim your console little...

  4. Thanks once again for all the compliments guys! Much appreciated the entire system parts and labor (not incl. the Burns Muffler) was about $775.

     

    If you do a search on YouTube under "Datsun 280ZX Turbo L28ET" I have a full sound clip.

     

    Regards - Yasin

     

    :shock: A bit steep no? Gald im doing my own exhaust..awesome looking exhaust though!!!

  5. Keep in mind you can tune the exhaust note by moving the muffler and resonator around. If/when I finally stick the 2JZ in my 280Z, I'll be putting a single Dynomax 3" muffler in the tranny tunnel and no muffler in the back so it doesn't sound like a Supra. It should be a bit raspier that way, but we'll see...er... hear.

     

    Ok cool, im looking for a deep performance tone, with no rasp..just a smooth high performance sound...like the famous dewgo

     

    http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1jz-SC-exhaust-note_198860.htm

  6. What gear is your diff? im looking for something thats 3.50 to 3.90.....4.00 and up, might make the car a little rough on the highway....some 240sx 1jz swap guys say first and second are useless with 4.11's

  7. Well today my brother and i got my car up and running...and to my surprise the engine started the first try and ran pretty good...Im running an open down pipe right now..I still have to finish running all the wires neat for a clean install...Hell i didn't even have the o2 sensor pugged in, most of the vac lines are not hooked up..still ran fairly decent..im filling pretty good about the project now and where it's going..i just need more time to work on it..

     

    In the coming weeks i need to finish the wiring and mount the ecu...have my drive shaft sent off, make a custom exhaust, weld up the custom intercooler pipes i made some time ago ( I'll take pics of them soon) Finish mounting the gas tank...and project s30 should be driveable..for under $4000... cost of car included i might add!!!:-D So far that is.......:icon51:

     

    Here is a crappy vid..enjoy...

  8. At formula D this year, I was talking to a guy with a 240sx with a vh45 twin turbo that was close to completion, but not running yet, and he was saying that the drawback of the motor was the small chamber heads, and that it needed a a lot of head work to be efficient with the turbos. I work for nissan and have worked on those motors before. They are very smooth in operation, but leak like bitches. They don't offer hardly any aftermarket as far as cams,pistons, rods, ect., and almost everything is going to have to be custom (EFI, turbo manifolds, ect..) An LS motor, will make more power for the price, and is way easier to swap. Plus, you get the benifit of the t56. LS motor hands down.

     

     

    Not to mention if it's tq that you like, the LS motor will make more and sooner...Plus the redline is around 6500rpm i believe..

  9. Yeah my 88 starion with the 2.6lt 4 is a tq monster.. in stock trim it makes like 235tq @2300rpm..i never dynoed with mods i have but I'm sure I'm making around 300ft tq....Top end on those motors suck though...Its fun to dive daily cause i don't have to wined it hard to get up to speed..My z on the other had will be more of a street and strip car..

     

    At what rpm does the 7m make max tq? I know it can vary a little..

  10. This weekend i hope to have her up and running...I still got to finish the fuel system and oil lines for the turbo...I think i might mount my ECU in pass kick panel..i might have to extend some wires, but thats ok..i plan to pull the dash and Rewire a lot of stuff..the previous owner did a lot of hacks and half a** wiring... Has anyone tried any of the ebay FPR on a 1jz? i have two im not using...

  11. The pic on page 1 of this thread shows you have a manual ECU, diagram of pinout on jzgte.com is showing one of the pins on the 4th plug(plug T) as neutral start switch , so this is (probably) a diagram for an auto.

    If you have got the engine to start and run, don't worry about additional wires .-it works, don't fix it.

    I'm running an auto ECU with manual transmission, when it was rewired, probably eliminated about 20 wires, a lot from plug 4.

    can't do pic of what is not used, as

    1) different ECU

    2)wires still running to plug- disconnect was done by simple un-plug at auto end.

    3)Beware! Toyota also changes colour codes of wires,regually! so be prepared for total chaos when trying to follow wire diagrams. first thing to do is get the part number of the ECU, (not visible in your pic) and identify

    the EXACT model car it was out of. (throttle body, and gearbox /shifter indicates it is early Mk3 Supra) looking at pin outs for other cars will only lead to total frustration.There are a heap of different ones out there for 1J engined cars.

     

     

    thanks, for the info....i'll search a little more...where did you mount your ecu?

  12. Guys, need some help..I have a supra 1jzgte( i believe) my ecu and harness has 2 rows..the problem I'm having is the ecu pinout is not matching my harness on the 4th plug http://www.jzgte.com/images/tech/

    jzecu_diagram.gif

    My harness 4th plug is missing a few wires , like (2) BATT, (3) M-REL..ETC

    My brother and I, manage to get spark and ignition and got the engine to hit..but were not sure why my fourth plug is missing the wires...We had to find the missing wires else where in the harness, and were not sure it's right...

    I was hoping i could just follow the pinout and hook up everything that need to be hooked up, and get rid of the other half of the harness(main plug)

    1jz is going into a Nissan '74 260z..

  13. Torquing a stock type head gasket won't get you much. It will go too. I tried. It's a design flaw, not lack of torque. MLS is the only thing that will hold high boost and even then they still go. Most, NOT ALL, on Supramania and SF are 7M nutswingers that don't realize how bad the MKIII or 7M is. Not that it's horrible, just not the basis for a good performance but with enough money you can make anything fast. I would not do the swap again. Unless you get it complete with everything for under $500. There are so many better engines for just a little more that don't have the problems. Crazy long stroke, the heads don't flow that much either, a little more than a 2 valve L head. My stock long block L28 stock, made the same as my 7M with the same boost/ similar turbo and can rev an easy 500 rpm higher. I'm not trying to be negative, just honest on what I think about the 7M. I would sell mine in a second so I could do a VH45 if I could find a buyer.

     

    With a/c my 73 weighs 2550lbs with 7M and r200. Not much more but a little more. It ran 13.0, 109 mph in the 1/4 with 9 psi on stock everything (intercooler, efi, afm, fuel pump, ect).

     

    Has anyone ever found why exacly the 7m blows head gaskets??? Most turbo cars i worked on were fine after a decked block/head..arp head studs and felpro gasket...I wonder if a o-ring block would cure the 7m woes...anyway just asking..

  14. Most the guys here will says it's not worth it..unless you get it cheap and can install it yourself..also the power goals you are trying to achieve have alot to do with it too..Is there anything wrong with your stocker??? In my case, for years i wanted to do a JZ or RB into a s30..so thats what I'm doing...forfilling my dream, whats yours?

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