Gritz
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Posts posted by Gritz
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Here is a cool idea from supra fourms..
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thanks gritz. The only thing that I am worried about in both of our setups is that running a filter directly on the turbo means that their is no room to have an intake tube with a fitting to suck out the crankcase vapors. We can't run a catch can, but I am thinking that venting the valve cover will be enough to release the pressure.
Yep, your right...Ive seen people run the little auto zone filters...but i would much rather do it the right way...Once i get to a more comfortable spot with my build then I'll figure something out...unless you come up with something first..
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If you don't mind me asking, how much did the entire swap cost? It seems like this would be a great 'poor-mans' alternative to any of the RB or JZ swaps.
To do a swap as clean as his, alot of money and time...well worth it though, just look...
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Cool, i also got my brother to weld up my IC pipes today..Mine are alittle different than yours, my filter isn't as long as yours is, i got the one from advance.....Looks killer, keep up the good work....
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Meh, make it a 6 rotor and shoot for 2k
I don't know that I've seen a 2 rotor dyno half that, so I guess that's pretty damn impressive.
yeah, most ive seen is about 600-650hp..
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The easiest thing to do is do one system at a time.. Charging system, ignition..etc..
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Thought id show how low my friends is. The drop was achieved by extreme boredom. He took the springs out because he "wondered" how it would look.
There is no motor/trans in the car.
Looks cool to me...Although i know a car this low wouldn't handle or ride well without a over haul of the cars supension...which means $$$$$$$
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man, if the lt1 is a nightmare, then the 1jz/2jz should be a piece of cake. i actually thought the lt1 was pretty simple. im all worried about the 2jz and now that you said that, it makes me more confident cause the lt1 was pretty easy for me. alot of reading but easy.
The 2jz is said to be a little harder than the 1jz, im not sure why..but im pretty sure it's easier than any of the fuel injected v8's...Now the vvt usdm 2jz is said to be the hardest out the bunch..because of obdII...Wiring is not hard as long as you know the basics of engine control operation...fuel,spark, volt/amp..etc
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that double din must be in the high dollor range? i wouldnt mind having that in my 4runner. hahaha. you should check out the crazy ass japanese ones on ebay. even more crazy, got so many colors, it looks like a party going on in your car.
i kinda figure 1jz was map. i guess the only way to get away with no maf on 2jz is aem?[/quote
Well there is a jdm 2jzgte(280hp twin turbo) that is also map...You can pick one of those up for about $1500-$2000 but they all come with auto trans and front sump oil pans..For a s30 swap you need a rear sump oil pan...So by the time you buy a r154 5 speed trans, oil pan, bell housing..etc it's just cheaper going with the 1jzgte depending on your power goals....
By the way the picture of the dvd/cd player is one of those ebay ones..I think the price is about $300 shipped
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1jz is map....this cd player has a off button..lol Plus it would be something different..Im a hiphop head so what ever car I'm in, i got to have my music..I agree with the thief magnet coment..i'll figure something out..
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Got some gages in the dash before days end...looks pretty good for about hour worth of work....I got a killer idea for my dash..im just not sure it can be done...I want to get rid of the center vent but i want to direct the vent to the windshield and feet only...no center vent..am i making any sense???
The reason i want to do is then i can run a 7" in dash DVD/CD player..along with having room for the rest of my gagaes..So imagine a large 7" display where the center heat/air vent is..wouldn't that be cool!!! Has anyone done something like this with the stock dash? -
Bump
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Well since i pretty much got the engine bay complete, i figure i should start on the interior and boy i don't know where to start....lol..... I pulled the dash to find all kinds of hacks, rewire, do dads and a kitchen sink...I bought some pretty sweet gages from harbor freight they change about 7 different colors..cool!! I guess i won't be driving it soon cause i got some major rewiring to do...Im going to take my time like i have been so far and aim for 2 weeks to have my interior done, at least the dash anyway...
My fuel cell is a 12 gallon RCI unit with foam...for now it's resting on wood for mock up... i plan to diamond plate the whole rear hatch of the car, i might even throw some diamond plate on the floor panels...or maybe not.. but i think it would be cool in the hatch..very trick!!!
Anyone have any idea where i can put all these gages???!!! lol... i have wide band, oil pressure, temp, fuel, volt, boost and SAFC..i might even do a
EGT gauge... Enjoy the pics!!
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Wiring all done under the hood...yeah!!....i think...lol..
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hey grits, i just noticed you crank bolt position or maybe its just the pics. the center looks to be dead on center position but the datsun engine and rear diff face is offset 3/4 to the passenger side? did you make sure it was positioned 3/4 towards the passenger side as factory positioned? this will make it straight from crank to tranny shaft through drive shaft to diff a dead on straight balanced position. my concern now is vibration issues while in motion!
wait, stupid me, after looking at the other pics of when you first put the engine in, it looks like you already got it handled.
Yeah position is pretty much dead on...however i did almost do what you said when i first started with fitment...either way the engine shouldn't vibrate cause thats what u joints are for..aslong as the drive shaft is balanced shouldn't be a problem...i think...
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looking nice Gritz! Yah its getting harder to find time to finish mine too. By the way, I like the Titan wheels on the Mighty Max, it looks sweet!
Thanks!!! i paid $170 shipped from ebay for the titans..cheap way to have nice looking 18's...I wish it was that easy with the s30's...Im looking for two more supra MK II 14X8 wheels..man are they hard to find..you don't see many MK2's in the junkyards...I'll run those for a while..then ill look at going with 17's or 18" wheels...
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Got my drive shaft today looks pretty good & strong and cook's only charged me $50 bucks to modified it, can't beat that...well see if it will hold 400+whp.... Also thought i would take some pics of my exhaust pieces.. 3" n1 style muffler, 3" resonator and 3" flex joint, which is awesome looking piece..
Got my AEM 6 in 1 wide band in yesterday..got a deal on it..$189 shipped (new)
SAFC 1 also pictured...these supporting mods should support my power goals....if not then I'm thing about maybe going with MapECU...
My stock s30 drive shaft is modified with a Toyota yoke on the front..it works!!
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Thought i would do a little update..I'm about 90% done with the wiring..just trying to figure the charging system and all that jazz...also I'm trying to use the stock 260z fuel relay system on the 1jz harness, but thats not working out to well, so i might have to run the fuel wiring separete...the person that had this car before me really was a hack..i mean nothing is making sense with wiring..lol...It's kinda like he was thinking.."oh my horn doesn't work..i'll straight wire it.." "oh I'm not getting any voltage to the fuel pump...ill straight wire it.." ......lol So trying to do everything right is taking a little longer, but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel..so it's all good..
I bought a 30amp fan relay control kit from advance auto.. It seems pretty good it comes with the probe and eveything... The sensor can be adjusted to come on from 160 to 215 i believe...it was easy to wire up..paid $26 so i didn't expect much but i think it might work fairly well..As long as it used on the low speed (Taurus Fan)
My drive shaft is at the machine shop getting modified..pretty good deal the shop gave me..only $40-$60.. should have that install this week..
I'll try to take more pics.... half the time i don't even have time to work on the car, let alone take nice detail pics like timbo does, my hats off to you bud, great job
Oh crap, i still have to fab up an exhaust and modify me a throttle cable..
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Good call Gritz, the Taurus fan blow insane for a stock fan. I used one when I had my rb20det 240sx and it was great. Got it for 40$ at the junk yard. I am trying a spal fan for this time around though.
Ive read that the taurus fan is alternator hog though..what do you think?
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A good condition stock s30 rad will work(remember it's 3 row)...but if you have cash to burn a aluminum rad is something to concider...Im using a stock rad and a single 4000cfm ford Taurus electric 2 speed fan..
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How so?
My brother which is helping me with my wiring..did a lt1 swap in a 1967 chevy truck..oh boy the harness on that thing was a nightmare..from what i understand, some of the body harness is infused with the engine harness so you have to decifer through all of that...most import engines has a separate engine harness which is far easier to work with....
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well, thats what I am doing right now. The interior is being done right now, and I hate doing it. I hate doing the cleaning ect.,but it will be running soon. The wiring is easy so i am not worried about that.
I agree the wiring is not bad at all once you get a understanding for what your trying to do...One things for sure it easier than any gm swap..
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I didn't know there were fuses in the kick panel. Is this a 260 thing? or does my 240 have fuses there as well?
And, no, I just can't go look at mine, it's 30 miles away (about an hour in our traffic).
Think i found it...check this out..
The reason i want to do is then i can run a 7" in dash DVD/CD player..along with having room for the rest of my gagaes..So imagine a large 7" display where the center heat/air vent is..wouldn't that be cool!!! Has anyone done something like this with the stock dash?
More Cylinders, More Power?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Easy... 6 beats 4, 8 beast 6, 10 beats 8, 12 beats 10...it's really that simple...If you had all these engines on a engine dyno, all built to the hilt, v12 would make the most power...Just like a v16 would beat a v12...But, you do have to realize that v8's are most known...so a v8 would be the cheapest and more bang for the buck alternative..