Overkill Z
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Posts posted by Overkill Z
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I KNOWW SHAGGY i feel like im trowing money at the problem.....
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PS i just wanted to post a little about my experience with WORKS. Im upset that they were unable to track down my wiring problem BUT SO WERE THEY... It means so much when you find a group of guys that want to solve a problem with as much effort as they did. It shows how AWESOME they are as a shop and i want you all to know I hold them in the highest respect!!!!! if you need anything worked on I recommend them in a heart beat!!!
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well we have tried a couple differnt aem ems's and they all still rev limit at around 250-3000 rpms. Im tired of this problem and bit the BIG bullet and got a NEW wiring harnes ordered today from toyota. yes i bought it straight from toyota! I hope the harness is my saving grace...because im at wits end about this goast rev limit. Currently the car is at my friends house. He is a 2jz gurue and sitting next to my car is a lexus sc300 with at least 800hp that does 10's....so i feel im in good hands.
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Is the car still having the same problem? Do you have a copy of the calibration you can send me? Go to Sensors>Cam/Crank Sensors>Advanced Cam/Crank>Advanced Pickups and do a log of the problem occuring, see if the parameter Timing Errors increases rapidly. Its normal to see a few timing errors during startup, but during idle and any kind of driving there shouldnt be any timing errors. If your getting timing errors email me the calibration and I will take a look at it. xeviltomx at hot mail dot com
i will have to get back to you on that
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Oh i was hoping it was something i did....
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Alright guys I just got off the phone with WORKS. They told me that the car revs to redline now but still has problem areas they cant seem to figure out why it breaks up at those rpms. They have done a basic tune....and have had them go through the wiring harness to the best on their abilities. After 1400 dollars the car still does not rev smoothly and they feel its still something in the wiring harness (most likley something i have not touched). They have tested all the sensors and say that "everything they can check says the car should be runing great".
so at this point im frustrated at spending money with not alot of progress. I still reccomend WORKS because they were great to work with but im a little bent out of shape because my problem has not been solved.
i have been told i should "start over with the wiring"
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Just by reading about your wanting a daily drive i would REALLY consider a L28et. IT will BOLT in... you put big injectors, big turbo,maybe cams/intercoolers....you will pull from an SR at half the price AND half the difficulty scale. Parts will be cheaper and easier to get your hands on... your car will be down for HALF the time and you can drive it to work.
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nope considering its just in parts i couldnt imagine paying someone to build a car like this lol......i was hoping to do the build for 10 grand tho
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So far I have spent
THE LIST
76mm turbonetice turbo $2000
exhaust manifold $150
1jz bell housing $350
Gasket kit $65
Intake manifold (custom) 1000
100mm throttle body $300
Godzilla BOV #250
boost Controller $300
rearsump pan $200
beta motorsports engine mount crossmember/tranny mount $300
port and polish head $0
Cut and grind valves $150
Aem ems fuel managment $1800
Greddy/getrex 2.0mm head gasket $350
RC 1000cc injectors $700
Sard High rise fuel rail $300
arp stud kit $150
5speed tranny $600
HKS GD PRO twin Disk Clutch $1800
intercoolers/piping 450
radiator 300
fans 150
Exhaust$500
custom driveshaft 300
Wiring run trough #1 600
Wiring run through/tune #2 (works) 1400
====$$$14,765 and thats just the stuff i can think of......
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Good Q... i had to track down a REAR sump pan
Did you use the front sump pan or the rear?? Just wondering. -
Just look at my thread and see if its something you want to undertake LOL
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WORKS sounded like they made some progress on the car today. There were many small issues it seems. Some Of the pin outs on the ECu block had to be moved around. MANY grounds Were not flowing voltage well. The Stock tune on the ecu was not good enough for my motor. PLus im sure MANY other small things they didnt even go into. But Apparently the car Revs completey to redline now 6-7000 rpms. It still has some hiccups along the rpm band tho....should i let them continue with a tune?
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LOL you have not been used!!!!!!!!!!! the car is still at Works....i talked to them Yesterday and they said they found "anomalies" in the wiring. I have no idea what that means but they said they tested the sensors and found them to be working properly. BUT i just talked to a good friend today (who has a 800hp+ lsc300) And he told me to ask them if they used a Lab scop on the crank sensor to see if the single was changing at all at the rev limit. Apparently you can test a crank sensor's restisntance and it still be in spec but still be a bad sensor. So i have to call them back tomarrow and check and see what kind of test they did to my sensors.
Boys, we've been used. -
ya iv already changed it once and works plans to change it again. They told me yesturday that they had a couple guys on the car and came up with some ideas we are going to go over today.
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Wow, that's pretty rich for vacuum. As in, close to washing the cylinders rich.
It could easily be a compound problem, too. One issue could have caused a second problem, etc.
i do have a feeling its going to be multiple little problems that need to be attacked one by one
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Sounds like a MAF problem, injector flow, fuel pump, etc. What is the A/F ratio when it's doing this?
i dont know what the AFR is but i do know it USED to be 10-1 lol
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it did rev perfectly until 2000 rpms then hit the "brick wall". But since WORKS changed the tuning on the ecu it now revs to 3500rpms and hits a "brick wall". Wouldnt this fact alone cancel out a mechanical problem like the teeth not meshing up with the sensor correctly?
Also they stated when driving the car under load it seems to limit around 2500 rpms now.
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Well WORKS has the car now and they have gone trough the maps extensively. The car now revs to 3500 rpms instead of 2000 rpms. So we have come to the conclusion there are at least two problems. --- the tune was making it limit at 2000rpms. Which is now fixed. By swappn ECU's with my friend it limited at 3500rpms as well.
but it now limits at 3500 so they are going to go into the sensors.
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Not it wouldnt slowly get worse before the rev limit....it would reve just fine until it hits a "brick wall". Right now the car is at WORKS getting run through...i hope they can find something. where are you located?
It sounds exactly like a standalone car hitting the next load cell that is way too lean. It will act like a brick wall; almost. Does it feel like you can be a hair under the 'limiter' before it breaks up all of the sudden or does it seem like it gets worse and worse over a short span of rpm and then it takes a bit more throttle to push it another hundred or two rpm? If so, it's probably just dead lean in the next cell. That's why the other ECU was different. Different map. What are your AFR's when it's doing this? Did you try fattening it up?Big fat injectors don't need to be very far off to be dead lean. Make sure you bump fuel by percentages with those fat squirters. I've idled 1200 cc injectors on a 2 liter 4 cylinder with the AEM.
Mark
(AEM cert tuner)
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My goals for now are to make around 350hp of reliable street power. This wont be a dally driver but it will be driven often. The budget is about 10 grand but we all know how that goes. As for welding skills I have some and my best friend is going to school to be a welder so I got that covered. I’m planning on using the beta motorsports 2nd cross member and fabing my own trans crossmember. I’m also planning on a set of bad dog frame rails. Trying to find a motor has been causing some problems. I’m nervous about just ordering a motor online without any idea about its history. Has anyone tried any of these sites?
I got my motor off a company that was on ebay..but they had a PHONE number so i called it in!!!! search and search and only by from a phone number...i got mine from some canadian company but just talking on the phone with someone you get a feel for what they know/dont know bout the motor they are selling you.
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i know when i got it to rev to 3500 it let out a HUGE blow off....it sounded RAD but i stilllllllll cant drive the thing yet..... but when i get it respectably boosting and driving i will make a tire shredding video!
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if you go 2jz defiantly get the betamotorsports cross member..... it saved me many hours in my install!
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well that would be a "change" to the ecu then
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umm im pretty sure you will need to do some changes because the boost comes on a a completely differnt time then stock twins...more boost=more fuel needed and im sure the stock ecu cant handle the extra boost.
2JZGTE wiring
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
use the search function....I have a thread for the past year of my build