Skatekov

Deleted for inaccuracy / insufficient information.

The spoiler is indeed for S30. Its a Victory spoiler, Though I just directly put them on, Slownrusty is filling up all his gaps. Center panel needs cutting 1 inch on both sides and keep in mind the Z31 taillights doesn't fit the arch or even the original hole without modification. 280zx harness does fit into the Z31 bulb holes. needs slight modification on the reverse lamp.

Well, a few years back some guy put mustang tailights and few months back I posted a photoshop request. Here it is in real life. Still a work in progress. Z31 lights are few inches bigger than the S130 so It requires a bit more of work.

drilled holes and bolted em on. but I think combination of both would have been better since they only come with 2 threaded holes. If you ever plan on bolting em on, I'd recomend you slit the hole on the hatch so you can adjust the position. You'd have to put a pretty big hole in the hatch frame to get the washer through though....

Slow and rusty covered this a year ago below http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104588-msa-victory-s30-rear-spoiler-fit-and-feedback-pics/ But here's how it fit with my car. I think the dent on the left corner Is either dependent on that specific spoiler or maybe they fixed the mold. Its not very visible on mine. Purchased few days ago. Came with 3 mounting hole but only 2 bolts. Maybe the center one interfere with the wiper on the S30? Anyways here's the left end of the spoiler. Note that this spoiler is for S30 so there will be parts where lines doesn't match like the C piller, However with light fiberglassing I'm sure it can be modified to perfectly fit. About a can of coke high. I think its slightly more slanted than on the S30. However width and curve matches the S130 quite. Rear shot (also, the spoiler is high enough to be visible from the rear view mirror if that bothers you.) Peace.

I don't have pics but for around 4,000 bucks you can get a custom made S130 Spindle type coilovers from Tein. Saw it on an ad on one of my Japanese magazine.

only around 300 bucks if you live in japan. by that not the Gnose but the Flares

Changed fuel rail design, No change. Shaft isn't leaking. Could lack of fuel pressure cause this? (the regulator has been moved to the return side after this video but no change.

can only check fuel level with it not running. I have the simple style fuel bowl w/o drain plug. and I'm really low on fuel pressure or the Egay gauge isn't working. but I'm suspecting that and the fuel rail design the most. maybe the rear carb is getting fuel first.

nedle valve is brand new and not sticking last time i checked it . will have to check throttle shaft leak. probably why. But will it cause such an dramatic imbalance?

yup, airflow is in sync, used unisyn. did the standard 2.5 turn. with the idle mixture nut Mods are SM needle I took apart everything, maybe I messed up the throttle butterfly clearance. ebay fuel pump... only pumping out like 1.5~2psi F54 P79 stock 280zx L28E engine. I understand how SU's work mostly. but I'm new to it so I lack experience with it.

OK... So I finally got everything on the car and the round top SU carb'd 280zx is running. Idles little high (1000~1200), starts up fine. revs pretty fine too. idles at 170~180F but when I try to tune the A/F mixture and push the piston on the front carbs up, it stumbles and almost dies (but ofcourse I rev it so it doesn't die) while the rear carbs on the other hand even if i push the piston up, nothing changes. no hearable increase or decrease in idle. tried taking the fuel mixture pretty far down but still stumbles and dies on the front carb. I've tried fiddling with the float level. No change so I put it back to the factory setting. all the gaskets are replaced. holes are cleaned. Tried different shoulder positions of the jet needle: one, the z therapy method where you have shoulders flush with the bottom of the piston: too lean, not enough for mixture nuts to compensate and the rear carb is still un-affected. coughs and dies. The straight edge method: flush with the needle mount, starts up without choke and idles but idle is a bit too high, even with the throttle all the way closed the engine still idles at around 1000. spark pluggs are fouled up. the front 3 are dry fouled while the rear 3 (cyl 4,5,6) are wet fouled My guess is: -Throttle shaft leak -"modified" E12-9x ign module ******* up -bad vacuum lines hook up.to dist etc I need help with this . -Me not using choke (but its like 90~100F out side...and starts up...) -needle position (where is the "real" bottom of the piston thats supposed to be flush with the shoulder? the little passage for idle or actual surface of the piston that touches the bridge. -and or bad fuel line and low fuel pressure. by the way this is what my fuel line looks like.. I havent got an chance to go get a OEM fuel rail . As you know many will say "Use the search" but it still havent gave me a clue or answer. little tight on budget and time for a DVD

If I could answer my own question, then I would have never even posted here in the first place... Anyways, I tried it by ear and sight, the engine ran smooth but had slower idle cold and hot when the side connector was disconnected... the belt was obviousely slower even by eye. So I guess It retards when the connector is not connected.... to keep in mind my FI run like crap to begin with so even if i did have a timing light, it probably won't give the best result.

Don't have a timing light.... I guess If it's I could hear the difference... If it retards it with the connection for engine warm up, then if I disconnect the side connector, it should run rougher when the engine is cold... right?

Its one of those topic that confuses people b/c many say not to use it without any supporting evidence..... Anyways. I'm going SU carbs on my 83 280zx, and I will be keeping the stock Ignition. but with the F-I stuff disconnected. The real question is, While some say E12-92 will retard the timing if the side connectors are DISCONNECTED, and Some say that E12-92 retard the timing with the side connectors CONNECTED then later the ECU cuts signal to de-retard it after engine is warmed up. What is true and what is not? I need to gather parts for my project and I don't want to go buy E12-80 for nothing.

OK, so mine is 83, so turns out I have the E12-92 ign module. Since I will be keeping the ECU as an ignition will it still retard the timing 8 degrees? or will disconnecting the side connector make it act like E12-80? I am confused at this matter and would like some info

get 15x9 -15 or -20 if you insist on 9s. for 8's you gotta get way more negative offset for flush. and no, 8 -0et wont touch the strut but it'll be sunk.

Well guess what. I'm from japan. and I AM Japanese.. So yeah, you really piss me off ...EXTREMELY piss me off. There are so many offensive shit in your post I don't know Where to start explaining. Since YOU are so japanese appearently, I guess I'll write my rant in japanese. good luck using google translate cause its written in japanese slang. 日本ã§ãŸã„ã¦ã„S130ã£ã¦ã„ã†ã¨æ¹¾å²¸ã‹æš´èµ°ã€ãŸã¾ãƒ¼ã«ãƒŽãƒ¼ãƒžãƒ«ãªã‚“ã よã€æ—¥æœ¬äººã”ã£ã“ã™ã‚‹å‰ã«ã¡ã‚ƒã‚“ã¨ã—らã¹ã¨ã‘ã£ã¤ã†ã‚“ã よã€ãŠã‚‰ã　 何回もã„ã†ã‘ã©ãªã€äººã«ã¯ãã‚Œãžã‚Œã‚¹ã‚¿ã‚¤ãƒ«ã£ã¦ã‚‚ã‚“ãŒã‚ã‚‹ã‚“ã よã€ã€€ã ã‹ã‚‰ã¡ã‚ƒã‚“ã¨ã„ã£ãŸã˜ã‚ƒã­ãƒ¼ã‹ã‚ˆã¡ã‚ƒã‚“ã¨èª­ã‚ã€ã€€ ãŠã‚Œã¯ã€€ä¿ºã®ã‚¹ã‚¿ã‚¤ãƒ«ã®å ´åˆãã‚ŒãŒæ™®é€šã ã£ã¦è¨€ã£ãŸã ã‘ã˜ã‚ƒã­ãƒ¼ã‹ã‚ˆã€‚ ã‚“ã§ã€ãŸã„ã¦ã„ã®S130ã¯ã‚¿ã‚¤ãƒ¤ã‚’引ã£å¼µã‚‹ã‚¹ã‚¿ã‚¤ãƒ«ã«ãªã£ã¦ã‚‹ã®ã€€ï¼ˆç¬‘）　 ã‚ã‹ã‚‹ï¼Ÿã€€ ã‚ã‹ã‚“ãªã„ã ã‚ーã­ã€‚ Incase you can't read that, which I highly doubt, I'll write it here in english. "In japan, Tuning style of S130 has been increasingly became Boso, or wangan. barely any 280zx's are kept stock wheels now." and I never even said a WORD about R35 GTR and how THEY are modified . SO Stop impersonating The Japanese and maybe do some research and use your head. Like I said MANY TIMES, Its up to the PERSON as to what style He/She likes. of course there are high performance modern car tuners in japan and they don't stretch the wheels because they DONT NEED TO with 17+ inch wheels on modern or more-highly modified cars, What I ment by "most japanese people in japan" was most people in japan riding a S130, stays in 15's or 16's and stretch on wide wheels because thats the kind of modification people around 40's+ (sometimes their children)that ride the ZX In japan do. And also, to note that the stupid hellaflush and slammed scene, came recently, base on ancient BOSO cars from 80's. which are illeagal and unpractical in japan, and not many like them in general. NO ONE used to do THAT extreme of a pull on tires except for BOSO styles ok? Look, I could go on for years and years story telling about old school japanese car scene If I want. So please do your self a favor and maybe research a bit further. or actually read the post. You really offend ME as being Japanese. If you want to actually hear the story and learn about the different car culture and styles, etc of japan, PM me. Seriously. I hate people with misunderstandings.

^lol, PPK, Me and couple of people, + most Japanese people run 15x9, and over 9J wheels with stretched tires. People have their own definition of fit ya know. Its up to Clashez to determine what direction he's headed in really. 225/60/15 ain't a trailer tire is it? neither is 225's and 215's or even 205 (ppk) with 50, 55. they're weird sizes, but some companies still make em.

I don't know if theres a rule for old thread bump, but I run 15x9 -15 and it barely clears the stock perch. (no coilovers) I fit 225/60 but It WILL front will rub hard in a dip. and rear will cut into the treads. also, width differ from company to company so I'd play it safe unless you can do some major mods to the suspension like PPK. also Offset is everything

AIght... Lets hope mine does too... (Is it threaded?)

Thats what I'm hoping... My bet Is that He saw a head that was welded shut, but who knows It might exist, It might not. Maybe just another one of those false info on forums that over time become fact.

O.K So I believe all P79 came off of 280zx N/A (EFI... as you know) But Someone said that P79 came in both intake manifold mounts for Carbs existing and non existant. Is There a specific Year that they didin't put Carb mounting holes for the P79? or was it dependant on theFactories?... Surely, It can't be at random. I need to know b/c I plan on putting SUs on a 83 P79 head and Drilling isn't something I can do at home.

*NOT THE MSA REMAN* but the real jdm ones looks like this.

I guess I'd have to download a 240z FSM and compare it with the 280ZX to see what stays in and what gets removed..