Vandergriff84

I stuck the timing light on it today to make sure that it is at 15 degrees as the tech said it was and I'll be darned if it isn't the same as it was when I took it into them. It's as if it is not going into base mode like it should because when I put the timing light on it at idle tps connected it shows -5 degrees and when I disconnect the tps it revs just a little bringing the timing up just for a second and then it drops back to idle and timing is back to -5 degrees. On other sites people are saying that when they plug their tps back in that the timing may drops to 10 degrees but never have I seen anyone say that their timing is negative. Can anyone make sense of this. Please embellish me with any circumstances where the ecu would retard timing at idle. Does it think there is to much air or not enough fuel at idle? Could the crank pulley be wrong or can it be installed out of time? I can tell that the tech put the timing belt back on too tight as it is making a lot of noise. Is it bad to drive it like this?

So if the tech advanced the exhaust cam one tooth wouldn't that now make the intake cam late or retarded? I got the car back today and it seems to run ok but when I hit boost the wide band goes strait to 10s and the power falls on its face or flat lines and hesitates. Seems like there is still a lot to do to make this right.

So the shop called today. They claim that they were able to get it to 15 degrees with the CAS fully advances in the slots. They took everything apart to make sure that everything was installed right and they said everything was spot on. So they then put it back together with exhaust cam advanced one tooth and now they say it reads 15 degrees with the CAS in the middle of the slot like it should. Does anyone know if this is an acceptable solution? I don't want to drive it like that for very long if that will cause any harm. I am going to go drive it tomorrow and make sure that everything feels and looks good before bring it home.

I have given up on figuring this out on my own. I took the car to a Nissan specialist this morning in hopes that they can figure something out. I will post back when I hear something from them.

Thanks for chiming in on this flatrate. That is the consensus that I am getting from other sites as well. The performance shop in town that is the only shop that I know of that is familiar with the RB motors is telling me that the stock ECU wont work with the aftermarket intake plenum. In turn without even offering to do any diagnosis of the problem they are telling me that the only way to fix the problem is to get a stand alone ECU. I just can't give in to this assessment without hearing it from someone more reasonable.

Ok, So I plugged the Cold start valve this afternoon to see if that would make a difference and again no change. Can anyone verify that a freddy intake manifold or a greddy will work with the stock ECU. I am preferably asking this in hopes that some one who actually has one running on a stock ECU will chime in and confirm or deny. I have ask a few people and I get conflicting answers. Mack from McKinney motorsports says that it should work fine and the performance shop in town says that you have to have a stand alone ECU to run an aftermarket intake manifold.

I moved the MAF in front of the intercooler over the weekend and it seem to make it rev a little better but the timing is still retarding as the temp rises. I am going to plug the cold start valve today and see if that makes any difference.

Can some one explain what the turbulence from the turbo do to the maf signal in detail? I currently have mine about 7-8" from the turbo but mine idles fine. My problem is that the ECU starts to freak out as the car warms up and retards the timing as if it is getting a lot more air than it is really getting. When I first start the motor from cold state everything looks normal. The timing is at 15 degrees like it should be but as the motor warms up the timing starts to pull back until it is below zero. There is a Red/Green indicator at the bottom of my consult that tells you if it is running lean or rich and once the motor has warmed up it stays Red/Lean and the motor wont make any power unless the CAS is fully advanced. I have been frustrating my self with this problem for about a year so if anyone has some insight please let me know.

I am going to go ahead and replace the temp sensor sense on other threads that I have read said that the computer did not give any code or error when it went bad and they were having similar problems as mine.

Yes the consult shows the timing. If you look at the video that I posted earlier in this thread you will see how it is jumping around.

OK so what about the Maf? Does it read air temp? Lets say it is to close to the motor because it probably is and it is getting to hot and there for giving bad info to the computer. I noticed the other day when I started the car up and put the timing light on the crank that at first it was spot on 15 degrees and as the motor warmed up it started to decrease until it was at zero or below.

As far as the temp sensor goes I am assuming it is OK sense the consult is showing the temp at 82 C which if I am not mistaken is the proper temp for the motor.

Ok, so Mack from McKinney says the intake and the BOV are not the problem and that there must be a mechanical knock or some sort of wiring problem. I checked the Knock sensors again today and they ohm out to what everyone says they should so I don't think they are the defective. I have checked continuity from the sensors to the ECU and the wiring is fine. So now my question is what else could cause this except for an actual knock? The check engine light is not on and there are no codes so how do I know if there is knock if the computer is not telling me so?

Ok, so I have been working on this problem now for about a year and I seem to be getting no where with it. I took the car down to a local performance shop that I knew would be familiar with the motor and they are telling me that the problem is the greddy style intake and the non circulating blow off valve. They said I would have to go with a stand alone ecu to fix the timing or put the stock parts back on. Can anyone confirm this? I was hoping to avoid the great expense of a stand alone and the added hassle.

I am pretty sure that the only mechanical difference from S1 and S2 is the plastic compressor wheel on the S2. They switched to built in igniters on the coil packs and they changed the MAF but other than that I believe everything is the same. If someone else knows different please chime in and correct me.

I tried to rebuild the turbo on my MR2 a few years back and it was unsuccessful. If I am not mistaken it has to be rebalanced once you put it back together and that is a job for the experts with proper tools. If someone else has had more success I would be glad to hear their experience and results.

Ok so this video shows you what the consult/ECU is reading. This is after I had started the motor with the tps disconnected and the CAS fully advanced. When I checked the timing with the light it was showing 0BTDC Just minutes before I shot the video I had the CAS half way and it read 15BTDC while the light was showing -5BTDC. I am at a loss with this thing so if anyone has any idea what is going on with this please let me know. IMG_0007.MOV

Pic 1 is just a vacuum hose, pic 2 I believe is the sense plug for the alternator and pic 3 is the coolant temp sensor for the dash. I am not sure of the last one, I may need a better picture to tell for sure.

Ok so sorry for leaving the other half of the problem out. Before I had the consult I was trying to set the timing but I couldn't get it to idle below 800. I now have it idling low enough but when I check the timing with the light off of the wire as rayaap2 had mentioned it shows that it is extremely retarded to around -10 to -15 degrees. I have checked the cams belt and crank so I know that the motor is all lined up with the timing marks so that tells me that ECU is retarding the timing. I read another thread recently that said limp mode from knock only retards the timing by 4 or 5 degrees and I have no fault codes. As far as the TPS I have it set to .47V like it should be it even shows up on the consult. If there is something else that I am supposed to do or check please let me know. I have unplugged the TPS several times when checking the timing with the light and it changes nothing. So the question is what is the ECU seeing that I am not?

So I tried to reset the ECU to see if that would help and that struck out. I noticed something interesting though, when I held the throttle plate closed by hand the BTDC numbers on the consult stopped jumping around and held at a constant 15 degrees which is where it should have been since I had the CAS about half way. Does anyone know if the consult is supposed to read exactly what the CAS is seeing or is it sowing some the ECU is computing? I am still hoping that some one has seen this before and will help a guy out with a magic fix. lol.

Ok, So I have an RB25det S2 in my s30 and most everything is stock except the greddy style intake. The issue that I am having is that the ECU is retarding the timing by 15-20 degrees at idle and I have not been able to find a fix for it. If I set the CAS in the middle the car will run but will not make any power because the timing is to far below 0. If I set it all the way retarded it wont run at all. If I advance the timing all the way the motor runs good but the timing is still only at 1 or 2 degrees above 0 at idle. When I rev the motor the timing advances to 10 or 15 degrees but as soon as it drops back to idle it is below 0. I have checked that my timing bet is on correct two or three times now and everything lines up so there should not be an issue there. I have read a few threads on other sites where guys had the same exact problem but none of them have posted a solution. I know that knock is the main reason for the ECU to retard timing but it is not going into limp mode and the check engine light is not on. I also have to cam angle sensors and it does the same with both and I also have three mafs. So my question is, has anyone on here had this problem and how did you fix it? What could make the ECU want to retard the timing that bad without going into limp mode?

I only have the Nissan consult connector. PIDs?

The battery is plenty strong and the engine is grounded strait to the battery.

Ok I fixed the flange problem but everything else is the same. The timing is still way retarded and it wont drop back to idle when I rev it. At this point I can't do any thing until I can find a consult to show me more of what the ECU is doing and what it is seeing. I am hoping I can find a Nissan expert in the area to take a look at it cuz I am just about spent on this thing.

I am getting no codes for knock sensors so I am leaning towards the idea that it is still some sort of air problem. When I spray carb cleaner at the back of the intake flange the motor sort of boggs down and idles real rough for a seccond and the goes right back to the way it was. Some one told me that if it does anything when you spray carb cleaner there and not any where else then there has to be a leak. So I am going to take the intake off tomorrow and replace the gasket hope that it fixes my problems.