Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I just run a stock turbo oil pump, it's been fine for me but shimming it is easy as it's outside the pan. Start small. I wouldn't pay Kameari to do it.
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It is 12.25" from the ground to the top of that crossmember. I don't know how much these cars settle with an engine and interior but I would think it would go down a bit. I also measured the top of the strut on the engine side (lowest point) to the ground. It was 31".
Clifton. Can you get the measurement from the ground to were the back cross member bolts to the frame? Like you did with the front. It seems to be a bit lower. I think this setup may work for me without sectioning the cross members since I'm replacing the frame rails anyways and the yz kit is 6 inches wider. So I should be able to use a higher offset wheel than normally used with this kit. Any help on the measurement is greatly appreciated. -
Hey, well forged internals should let you run the boost. The head can be taken care of.
I definitely agree with your 1-5 list, but you don't need forged internals to get away with 30 psi especially with c16. Most on here will do the 1,2, and 4 but not the big turbo and big boost, which is exactly what he did in the vid.
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1. custom turbo cam
2. extensively researched fully ported head with oversized valves and upgraded springs, retainers, etc.
3. 30+ psi on C16
4. custom tubular exhaust manifold and big intake manifold
5. rev the snot out of it with a turbo big enough to truly flow that
I'm not trying to come down on you, but that is exactly what a 600+whp honda/neon has in it.
2 and 3 are the easiest.
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I would check the ohms first. Make sure it's not zero. Injectors that have sat a while can stick. I have had it happen on rebuilts that sat for only a year. Ran them for a few minutes with a really rough idle and they unstuck. Had it happen on others too and did the same, let them run for a while(5-10 minutes). Never had one not come loose.
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I guess I'm a little late as you found they are the same model. The ratios aren't exactly the same though. I know first is a little shorter. I can't remember the rest or the ratios. I also don't think they are shorter but the shifter is in the trans, like an earlier Z. Would make the swap alot easier in an S30 with out the extended shifter.
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When mine blew at 20 psi I had a 1976 l28 out of a junk yard that I got for $100 N/A, dished pistons, P90 head. My timing was 12 BTDC, holset turbo, 93 octane, 20 psi 440cc injectors, MSnS...ping-ping good night Johnny, its over. My C/R may have been higher?? My true turbo motor I have now I can run 17 psi at 20 BTDC with the same turbo (have not pushed it any higher)
You had knock with 20 psi and 12* total or at idle?
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What was Phils timing? What octane was Phil running? What turbo was he running? If you have deto on stock pistons you will have it on a forged bottom end too and it still won't last.
Big Phil's motor also blew up at 20 psi, due to detonation I believe. Pushing 20 psi on a stock motor (not electronics) is very difficult in my experience. Seems no matter what I do there is some gremlin at 18 to 20 psi that random detonation occurs and thats all she wrote for your motor.It would be nice if there are some of you guys out there that could share some input on how to achieve 20 + psi on stock mechanics.
As Ron says "give it what it likes", so what are you doing that your motor like so much?
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The ET isn't impressive to me as it's an auto and I'm not a 60', 1/4 mile guy but mph takes HP and a good launch will only go so far.
To those that think 24 psi or 28 on a stock block (pistons) is alot, it's not. Cylinder pressure is your only limit (detonation). As long as it doesn't knock it will last. You can control timing and octane. Anyone on here could do the same and run the same trap speeds he did. He is running a big turbo which most on here won't (fear of lag) and big boost which most are afraid to do because they were told it's dangerous. Do that and just add fuel. I wouldn't run 550's with a stock ecu but that might of been all that was left in his budget.
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Mine idles lean after 1/2 hr plus restarts. I ended up setting my idle fuel very rich (11.0) and then let the wideband setting pull it back to 13.0. It won't idle smooth in the 14 or even 15's like the stock ecu did. It works as a band aid fix. I'm running the flyback and want to go to resistors to rule out a problem there. It may also be an injector problem on mine but I do miss the stock ecu at times.
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If you are still looking, some one on here would know. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 If you find out the deck height please post here. I don't think there is a diffeence though as atleast one guy on there used a VH45 crank in a VH41.
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After looking at Justins first pic I see what you are talking about. I will measure it this weekend.
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I didn't see this until now. I haven't even pulled my VH from the parts car yet. I did find they made an awd version though:icon15:
Go here http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 . I know gs14racer on there is using the Mazworx adapter.
Hey clifton, for the Z32 tran to go on the VH, What do we have to do to the Crank since it has a weld on counterweight from the auto tran that it came with. I still cant think of a way to take out counter weight with out touching the crank? I hope I'm making sense. -
So 600 hp on stock rods is possible as long as it is not an endurance road race car being spun at 6-8k for hours on end. Perfect, as Bryans car is a street car.
If I had the financial backing Electramitive had I would not use stock rods either or even cranks. Money makes those decisions alot easier.
I may be wrong, let me know, but I would think that Bryans engine only seeing 17 psi would be less detrimental to longivity than say another engine seeing 22 psi (mine) and making less horsepower but similar torque. The load on the internals would be the same at peak torque, his just breathes better up top making more power. I would also think 22 psi would easily have him to 600 crank. I ran 22 psi when I road raced and never had a rod failure and it saw some revs.
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That was on SF awhile ago. Nice power band:(. Supposedly it was a head gasket that let go on the third pull.
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Why did they say it wouldn't work? Dave at AZC used to run a blow through with his manifolds along time ago. The first turbo Z (2fiddy's car) I had a ride in had one on it too.
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Is it a race only car?
Ya. That's why I'm not sure of when the boost comes on. I can't drive it on the street around here to check when it comes on. Too much traffic and it kinda stands out.
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Above 4k it makes boost fast. I don't think it got below that other than the start. It's a 30 psi gauge. The first white number is 0, then 10, 20, and 30. Boost was set to 18 psi. I put a few pics in the begining. Here's the a vid. http://media.putfile.com/71-240Z
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I have video, just trying to figure out were the lowest rpm I'm at when it comes on. Most of the time my revs are up. I'll see if someone can host it full size so you can see.
On the O trim, .58. I would not do it. There really isn't a need to have full boost below 3000 rpms. If the compressor is suited for higher horsepower it will surge in the higher gears at those rpms. I've done it with a O trim .70 P T66 in 4th at 3500 rpms. If it were an n/a car one wouldn't expect much below 3500. Same should be expected for a decent sized turbo.
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600 HP is all the stock rods are supposed to be good for? Hmm. I remember when people said that about stock 2JZ pistons and rods a few years back. Now people make an easy 800+rwhp on them. My 91mm stroked 7m with a rod that can't be any stronger than an L rod has been easily doing more than that for years.
Bryan, I would talk to Joel. It might not be too much to buy just the cold sides you want.
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It depends on what you are doing with the car. IMO, if it is a 400rwhp track car I wouldn't even think about stock brakes or Z31 brakes. If it is has a mild engine and see's only street and auto X, I would run stock brakes with a decent pad. If it is in between or has boost, I would atleast run the Z31 vented/ toy caliper. I wouldn't even mess with a solid rotor and Toy caliper. The problem is the solid rotor.
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I've seen video of some of those Dubai Patrols. They were newer ones. Not L powered but fast as fck.
Those MK4 ct's are barely good for 500 rwhp.
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My fronts are 17x8, 25mm offset. The arms are 10mm longer, They didn't make the wheels in the offset I wanted so I had to add it at the arms. With 10mm less wheel offset my track would have been the same though.
Justin, I can get the tire to frame rail to tire measurement next weekend If there is another measurement you want off it I can get that too. I think the wheels on that SC are 7's.
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Tires, wheels or offsets?
The S30 is the one in my pic. The wheels are about 1/2" short of being flush with the fenders.
What tires were on that S30, same for the SC300. The track difference is a decent amount.
7mgte have interferance valvetrain?
in Toyota L6 Forum
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3530lbs http://trdsupra.com/library/A70WeightIndex.xls