Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I know you could find someone at SEMA that would to it.
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Usually the piston seals on them go first. Look at the turbine wheel. If it's oil, it's gone. Compressor seals go too, I just haven't had one go.
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does anyone make a simular kit or have the parts list??? 7mgte I can get one without the turbo is that easy to swap into a 260(just curious)?
7mgte is not an easy swap. On the chance of sounding rude, which I'm not but it's hard not to sometimes on the net. If you have to ask for a parts list it might be beyond your ability right now. Sizing the turbo is easy, scrounging what is needed to do a carbed turbo setup is pretty easy too. You could have all the parts for a blow through set up in a day. Suck through might take a little longer and require a custom manifold .
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If it is anything like the tank that was in my 73 when I got it, you will have to have it boiled, acid dipped or whatever caustic thing they do to make it like new. I wouldn't waste your time with the pour in treatments if it is bad. It doesn't take much to plug up a filter and you don't want it coming back on a trip. I was quoted around $75 for an acid dip. Get it out, remove the fuel sender and shine a light in there.
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That Turbo Tom kit isn't available anymore. 320 rwhp on a stock L with a turbo is pretty easy, even on pump gas.
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Speed doesn't cover WRC any longer but for thoise that heaven't heard.
http://timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/more_sport/article2461339.ece
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I have about every pic in your gallery saved. Awesome car
. Liked the Misfits too. 335's in the rear? -
Sounds F1 ish once the revs come up. Very nice.
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Are you using the stock shoulder bolts? I never had problems with mine coming loose ever. I think the impact on a small diameter bolt is looking for trouble. There are torque specs for a reason.
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If you have a restriction, clog, or failing fuel pump, that 30 psi at idle will drop a huge amount when the revs come up with some load. Disconnect the vac line to it and see if it steady as the revs increase or better if you can see it while driving at WOT. If it stays pretty much at what it is at idle( assuming the vac line is off), it's the regulator.
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so, has it been confirmed that the z32 transmission bolts to the VH45? is it only the TT transmissions or all z32s? I'm looking to swap this motor into a miata!
It won't bolt to it without an adapter. You can get them at http://www.mazworx.com/store/?event=displayProduct&product=59 You can use a TT or n/a Z32 trans or I belive the V6 truck trans, it has the shifter on the trans instead of the remote exted mount. The n/a and tt are the same internally for sure, probably the truck too as it's the same trans model. Use a VG flywheel. VH's are pretty wide. Don't know how much width will fit in a Miata. I don't think you will benifit from a Z33 6 spd. IIRC,they are single overdrive, just alot more shifting. You'll have more torque with a 4.5. I would rather have the T56 if I wanted a 6 spd.
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I bought two cars here. http://iaai.com/locations.aspx . Even after the yearly fee you can still get a Supra with trans, wiring, ect, cheaper than just an engine on ebay . Just watch weekly. I paid $600 ish for a low mile one with nice wheels and $300 for another.
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NOT!^^^
Toyo RA1s are NOT just like any other performance tire. Have you ever even seen an RA1 in person and up close? This is a prime example of someone becomming an "expert" after reading the description on the side of the cereal box.
Slow down and read a little more carefully. You are a prime example of someone just reading a few posts of a thread and not all of them.
This would be my first choice as it has good tread depth for an R comp tire. I run these,I RUN THESE TIRES ON THE STREET. I ALSO RUN V700's ON THE REAR.
I said as far as tread depth. I didn't come up with 8/32. Toyo did. Debate them on that.
Based on the mileage the car will be driven they would last. Yes I know what they look like after 3 years of weekend street driving they are on my car right now. They get down to the wear bars. same as any other tire that get to the wear bars. They have the same tread depth. Just RA1's have less voids. Do as EVERYONE does with street tires at the wear bars. REPLACE THEM. With RA1's they are still useable and can easily be sold though as track poeple don't mind them and like them worn this much.
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I think the RA-1s have ~reasonable rain characteristics. But there is not much tread depth even raw/unshaved. There will be a lot of tire life left once the tread is worn off, but the tires will become useless in rain conditions long before the "meat" of the tire is worn away.
Those are competition tires. They are usually run WITHOUT the tread as a semi slick tire. Most racers like the extra grip right as the last remnants of the tread pattern are worn off.
They have 8/32 tread depth, same as any other high performance street tire. Unshaven, they are more than fine in the rain on the street if you drive sensibly.
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No, there's a local place to me that has them for the same price, so I got mine there.
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225 50 ZR 15 is pretty limited theese days. not as much choices ?? everything is 16" and up...i only drive my Z on the weekends and am looking for a good/sticky street tires.
my choices so far are dunlop sp sport 9000 OR the yokohamas avs es100(v-rated).
any recomendations ?
If it's a weekend only car the tires you mentioned will last 8 + years and become hard before you wear them out. The last 3 years the tire is so hard you'll want to replace it. The tread wear will give you a good idea of how hard it is. Those es100's are fairly hard. I had them on a Z31. Great if you want to get 60k+ out of a tire. I would run an R compound tire. You really don't drive enough to wear out a regular set of tires.
This would be my first choice as it has good tread depth for an R comp tire. I run these, my favorite street tire. It will easily last 3-4 years on a weekend car that isn't tracked. May cost a little more but if you want to stick this is it. This will have twice the grip of the two you listed. Life will be shorter but you'll enjoy them much more.
http://www.bmwwheels.com/bmwwheels_toyo_tires.asp
Another R comp, same tire Elises come with as a daily tire. Kinda pricey
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=ADVAN+A048&tirePageLocQty=
Another good tire would be the Nitto NT-01. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireProductCategoryDetailBrnd.do?tpc=NITHZ8&tp=Competition&tc=NITHZ7
That Falken 512 is a granny tire, would be great on a Buick:biggrin:. I would atleast get a 615. They don't come in his size though.
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You don't need to remove anything on the front. If you did want to, you would still need the carrier out first. Stick a pipe in were the stub axle goes and yank or pry under the carrier. The only thing holding it in after the caps are of is the carrier bearing preload. Some ring gears are on the carriers pretty tight. If yours is, after you get it off, the easiest way to get them back on is heat them up, oven works good or torch.
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Yeah stick weld woulda been alot easier but all I have is a MIG. I'm gonna try and break it apart and put some bolts in it. Seems to be very popular.
I've arced and miged them. Mig is alot easier to clean. Don't have to knock the slag off. If your welder has the amps, mig is fine. Heating it up isn't going to get your penetration any better if yuor welder lacks the amps.
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Ya, you can't do it in the housing. Keep track of what side the shims come out of when you pull the carrier out and it will go right back in. Penetration doesn't look all that great either. You use a 220v or 110? If you have 110 I wouldn't try again.
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What you do with your car would help in picking a tire. AutoX, drag, high HP street car, weekend car, daily high miles and wants something that lasts or 50 miles a week and wants something that will last a year or two but stick.
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is it supposed to be welded on the sides like that too? or just the spider gears?
in that photo, it doesn't look like the wheels will turn at all.
Yes, the carrier turns as it is bolted to the ring gear. Welding the spider to the carrier is the strongest way to do it. I've done quite a few the same way.
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[quote name=Tony D;802642
Driving a non-BOV equipped car that runs high boost will reveal some really strange things' date=' like 3-4psi at small throttle openings, going instantly to say 20 psi at WOT. It modulates just like the power delivery of an N/A car when driven like a hot-cammed N/A car. [/quote]
BOV should be closed under boost. Difference between the bov and non at 4 psi and 20 psi would be the same.
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Well you sure have a drop dead gorgeous car, whereas I have never built a turbo motor. So a good point of reference for me. 26 psi seems like a lot of boost, too.
Do you any type of pop off valve to relieve intake pressure on quick down throttle?
On my 73's, originaly no. I do know though. I don't run one on my 71'(road race car. They don't dump intake manifold pressure, that's what the throttle does. Just gives the turbo somewere to move the air so it doesn't surge when the volume isn't used my the engine. Low cfm and high pressure = surge. They are not designed to prevent stall, they aren't postive displacement. Infact on my truck the turbo is pretty loud when spooled, not exhasut, just from the compressor. I don't run a bov and have stalled the truck a few times at the dunes under full load, boost dropping as the revs drop, a downshift just kills it on a steep hill. With the engine stalled, you can still hear it whisstle for a few seconds, throttle closed and no rpms. It won't just stall with froma a shut throttle.
But if you actually try to use the throttle and engine power to negotiate the car through a turn' date=' then I simply cannot believe that increasing the volume of the intake plumbing by an amount almost equal to the engine displacement won't be noticeable.Think of the intake plumbing as a storage reservoir on an air compressor. The larger it is, the longer it is going to take to pressurize, the more stored energy it will contain, and thus the longer it is going to take to depressurize. None of those things will contribute positively to throttle response."[/quote']
It's not the intake manifold volume you are increasing, it's just the area in front of it. No different than the atmospheric pressure on a n/a car with a throttle closed except the pressure is just a little higher higher on a turbo car. It is still pressure though.
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But if you actually try to use the throttle and engine power to negotiate the car through a turn, then I simply cannot believe that increasing the volume of the intake plumbing by an amount almost equal to the engine displacement won't be noticeable.
I promise, it's not noticable. I have no problems autoXing, going from 26 psi to closed throttle, to part throttle, back to full boost at the limit of lateral traction. If the throttle plate was at the turbo inlet instead of the manifold I think it would be completely different. I can say that when I ran a afm just before the turbo, it wasn't quite as smooth with throttle transitions with the length between the throttle and afm being so far. With a map sensor at the plenum, it's perfect.
. Liked the Misfits too. 335's in the rear?
New garage for my toys
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I finally got the inside done and moved my stuff from the front garage into this one. I left the compressor in the front garage and ran an underground line to this one. It will be nice not having to listen to that thing kick on and run. I still have to stucco the exterior but atleast I can use it now.