Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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If the car was nuetral before it will push now. If it pushd before it will really push now. If that's the case you could bumo up the rear spring rate a little. If it is just a street car it doesn't really matter.
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PM ARZ he is running them.
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On my 73' I originally used the stock feed line and the vapor or some other line for the return. It was a little larger than the actual return line. I ran it with a 255lph Walbro, made 500+rwhp and fuel pressure was good at idle. I later went to twin pumps and did both lines in 3/8 hard.
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where would i get it?
Getting the tank boiled out should be your first priority if it looked anything like mine did.
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tec280zx, 1fastZ is running those too. They look real good on a Z.
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You can mount the fpr at the fuel tank if you wanted to. Fuel Safe does on some of there cells.
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That's where I mounted it on my 73.
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You can run coil overs sleeves without cutting and welding. Just let the sleeve sit on the old spring perch. You don't "have to" cut off the excess. Actually you will need to weld a piece of tube to the front upper spring perch to center the 2.5" spring. The rear you can leave it out and grind some on the isolator and the spring will seat. Is it the best way to do it, no but it works.
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i know i should have done that but the only reason why i havent flow tested the injectors yet is because im running really rich. but i went out and checked my afm boots again and sure enough the one between the turbo and afm was loose! started her up and there was a pretty big difference but i saw that the number 5 plug was sparkin on the outside! i replaced the wire and nothing happened. checked under the dizzy cap, and the electrodes (i guess youd call em) werent looking too great. so i think before i have the injectors tested im going to do a full tune up and see where that gets me.
and yes i know i should have in the first place.
Why do you think it's rich? What's the plug gap? I'm assuming it's stock boost. I would keep it in the .025-.028" range to be safe.
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You can't tell what they are by looking at the spray pattern. I would either send them off to someone like Witchhunter and have them flowed and/or buy a wideband.
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There isn't a best angle then. Air come in the front and goes through the IC.
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I love the YZ fenders Reaction research has. Some body work needed. There are ZG flares that bolt on if you don't want to do body and paint. MSA has smaller ones. Someone on here has some wider ones.
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8* is about right at idle. Total timing is more important. If it's popping through the intake it's lean unless you've messed with the cam or dist. Are you sure it's 40-42 psi under load. I'm mean WOT up through the revs not just pulling the vacuum source on the FPR.
I just realized this was a turbo swap. Does this happen only when going a little into boost? Are you using turbo injectors? Is this a factory turbo efi setup?
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The numbers you posted are lateral, not longitudinal acceleration as ARZ is talking about. .9 in a turn is one thing. Doing close to that in a straight line on the street with street legal tires is another and makes most passengers shiit:mrgreen:..
0.84 is way low.RANK CAR LATERAL G POINTS NOTES
1 Datsun 510 1.092 100 Holy sticky tires
2 Ferrari F360 1.082 99 Still, a Datsun beat it
Tyres > *
I've been in a Datsun 510 (sedan) outfit with Motec's 3-axis accellerometer and Dash setup. Regularly pulling high 0.9s on the road, with ultra high performance street rubber.
Dave
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my a/f gauge says its running really lean. the injectors appear to spray good, the fuel pump puts out 30 psi,
30 psi at what volume? Under load or at idle? Are you on standalone? If not, the O2 is for closed loop and isn't your problem.
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I like the SDS because it may be simple enough for a computer idiot such as
Art
I just pulled SDS off one Z to put MS1 on it .
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To use the paddle shifters it would still need an after market transmission controller too.
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IMO, there isn't a good reason to angle an IC on a S30. After the air gets through the IC, if it can, it has to go through the radiator. It would be easier for the air to continue in the same direction. If the air doesn't get through the IC easily it could restrict the radiator airflow some, possibly causing it to run warm at speed. I over think the radiator as I'm in Az.
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I doubt you suddenly have a timing issue. I would suspect the tank as everyone else is. My 73' sat for years and would run in 3 minute intervals. The tank was full of rusty brown crud. I replaced the tank. You can remove the sender and get a light and mirror and look into the tank. Or when it's running like shiit, measure the return volume of fuel. I don't know what the stock pump flows but it should be at least 15 gallons an hour at 35-40 psi for a 180 hp engine. ( A 255 Walbro is around 40-45 gl/hr) Checking this would rule out a fuel issue.
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You should get it balanced.
Compressor and turbine wheels are balanced individually. Unless it came from an aftermarket shop like Turbonetics it won't matter. Even they just take the weight off the compressor nut. I've mixed and matched their parts without problems. New nut of coarse.
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dang his running high @ss boost its no wonder he would run into some problem with this motor.
The wastegate line coming off was what killed it. It was on stock pistons for a few years with no problems at that boost. I don't blame the ring lands for breaking, it would have happened to any motor. When the line came off it detonated about a hundred times before I got out of it. Don't trust 1/4" wastegate lines without real hose clamps at 30 psi:mrgreen:.
FWIW, FFM's don't make more power unless the runner length has been shortened.
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The cracks won't effect it at all.
Remove the compressor wheel. They can gall on the shaft if you have to turn it alot without it slowly coming off. Once it's off, lightly tap on the threaded end of the shaft and the turbine will pop out. The only that that will be giving resistance is the piston ring on the end of the turbine wheel. You just need enough force to pop that out. Same with putting it back in just make sure you have the ring seated as far as it will go into the chamfer in the center housing. Use the T4 heat shield with the T4 wheel too.
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how are you setting up the turbo manifold? and what tranny will you be using?
I'll either use the stock flanges with a log mani or route to a turbo collector. I already have a Z32 n/a trans (cheap), just need a Mazworx adapter.
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yah the drawback of both the vh45 and the 1uz, are that they both have crappy flowing heads. If you want to go v8, then go with an LS series motor, because their is way more aftermarket support, and the t56 bolts right up. If you want an I6, then go 1jz or 2jz.
Come on. Stop the internet rumors. VH45's flow pretty good. VVT 1U's flow pretty good.
This is from one guy.
It has been a very common rumor on here for a long time that the 1JZ head flows better than the 2JZ. This has lead to alot of people doing the 1.5JZ swap or atleast wanting to. Over the last few weeks I have been building a 1JZ, including porting the head, for a customer. I flowed the head on our SF-600 flow bench before and after I ported the head.
A stock 2JZ flows about 238in and 154ex at .400 lift. A stock 1JZ head flows 215in and 133ex at .400 lift. After I did a good street port job including reworking the chamber the 1JZ head flowed 230in and 152ex at .400. This should put to rest the idea that the 1JZ head is better than the 2JZ, because the fact of the matter is that it is not better.
Erin
This from another.
This is from a Pontiac magazine.
The stock LS1 cylinder heads fitted on the '04 GTO were good for a factory head. After all, not many factory cylinder heads can claim they can flow 233 cfm on the intake and 180 cfm on the exhaust at 0.600 inch lift at 28 inches test pressure.
This from another board
LS1 heads flow in the 260 CFM range stock
LS6 heads flow in the 280 CFM range stock
Based on that I would say a 4.5L (560cc per cyl) head that easily flows as much as a 5.7 (710cc per cylinder) LS1 or maybe a tad more and flows as much as a highly worshiped 2JZ (500cc per cylinder), but has 50% more disclplacement. I don't know where you get "crappy flowing head" from.
started her up and there was a pretty big difference but i saw that the number 5 plug was sparkin on the outside! i replaced the wire and nothing happened. checked under the dizzy cap, and the electrodes (i guess youd call em) werent looking too great. so i think before i have the injectors tested im going to do a full tune up and see where that gets me. 
Anyone setup an MS to run the VR Dist?
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Ed,
did you get your VR dizzy working? I'm having a similar problem with no RPM on MT. At least not during cranking. If I spin it by hand or with a drill I get a signal.