Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I agree. I only use my linelock when I want to keep the car running and a/c going if I'm going to jump out for a minute. I would never trust a line lock as a parking brake, I just use first gear.
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Couldn't you run it in 5th to get the rpms up a little to get out of the harmonic hum range when your speeds are lower? Don't really need to put in 6th if you don't need to. I wouldn't regear the diff if you have a double OD trans and you can get your desired cruise rpms with another OD gear. I would also think that with 225mm tires and your torque, a 4.11 would not be productive or fun in first gear. I would use either a 3.7 or 3.54. If you went with a 3.54 you could get some good $$ for your 3.7 LSD and help offset that Torsen.
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Thrust bearing failure. Yikes. Spork is right about it not being much of an upgrade on the compressor side. They do use a larger turbine wheel though that will flow more than the Z's T3.
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My sensor is .822" wide. I have seen 2 different sensors. Mine is the Escort one. The 6cyl one might be thinner.
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im starting to see my car is also refferenced to being a S130,am i right?
Yep.
I know there was a local guy that used J30 hubs and brakes on one. I don't know the specifics though. I'm sure others on here might know more, I'm an S30 guy.
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Stock for stock a V8 is a better choice. You won't have to use premium fuel and it will have all the torque off idle. To get good power on pump gas (300+ rwhp) out of an L28 turbo you'll need a bigger turbo, injectors, intercooler, standalone ecu, and a clutch that will hold it. It will add up quick. Those parts added to the V8 will make twice the power of the L28T.
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I don't see on car adjustment of front track really being a great benift. On car caster would be nice but these are just a LCA if they including an adjustable TC rod it would be complete IMO. A rear control arm being on car adjustable is much more important I think, so you can easliy adjust toe.
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10 psi without an intercooler isn't risky if there is no knock. It is no more risky than running 18 psi with an intercooler and no knock. I run 12 psi for the 8 cooler months out of the year on my Z31 with no intercooler, have been doing it for 2 years.
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.8" isn't that much out at the motor mount. If it were at the side of the oil pan it would angle it a bit more. As for driveshaft angle. Check it before and after. Probably less than 1* difference. I doubt it will be worse than mine and I have zero vibs. Stick a .750-1.000 block in there and see how much it changes before you do it permenatly.
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Actually the 7M motor is a few inches shorter than the L6's. They weigh a few pounds more but not enough to worry about, the extra weight will be further back too. Using the stock EFI is pretty easy. If you do do it. PM me I can send you links, pics, and give tips.
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Well i have a a/f guage. Will show me if i lean out.
Wideand or cheesy rich/lean narrow band gauge. If narrow band you are better off measuring it's actual voltage.
Another problem blowing through an afm is the ecu is assuming the airflow through it is at atmosphere. In your case the density varries greatly. The ecu does not know that. Most are fully open at peak torque and you may have enough lag that it won't matter as boost will come about then or a little latter depending on the turbo.
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It was only warped one time the other times i just got it resurfaced when i changed the head gasket.
I wouldn't shave it unless it isn't straight. No need to do it everytime the head comes off. You could cc a chamber to figure out the CR. If you are under 9:1 wyou shouldn't have a problem with 15 psi if the timing isn't oo much.
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The stock FPR is good to whatever psi you want. I wouldn't run more than 12-14psi without atleast a wideband.
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Ya, you do have some reading. Use larger than 370's. You'll max them easily if you run a decent turbo. A 2mm HG adds extra cost. I would skip the forged pistons and get a turbo long block with ex mani.
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If your goal is to make more power to keep from getting spanked, it's not going to happen with bolting on a stock efi or any other easy bolt ons. If you don't want to go turbo I would just keep the carbs as it's easy and the stock efi manifold isn't the best for power. Use the L28.
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I wouldn't go out and run XX amount of boost because someone with a similar set up is. Don't get crazy with the timing and listen for knock and then back the boost off some. How much did they take off each time they resurfaced?
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You'll need an adapter. There's atleast one for the Getrag 6spd and a few for the R154 5 spds. There's an engine weight comparison post on here somewere that has the weights. It is lighter though.
sounds like the 1UZ-FE is an attractive package indeed!! any power specs and weight compared to the L engine? i know that the toyotas are light, but how light? i was thinkin of an SR20det, but finding out how cheap the toyota v8 is..... i think im chaging my mind
would a supra 5 speed bolt straight in? -
Not sure. I think I may just stick with my 83 zx turbo cv. Keeps things simpler for now. They are good enough. If you want the 300zx cv's, I could grab them for you. I gotta remove them anyways.
Sent you a PM.
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Hard to believe "she" just registered, has zero feedback and is going to sell just her husbands lsd while he is out of town even though and she knows how rare it is. Also doesn't take Paypal, pretty convenient. If anyone here is bidding, be carefull.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260021218811&fromMakeTrack=true
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It looks like just the outlet is in the way. Can the compressor housing be clocked down a little more or would it still hit? I have my outlet pointed straight down as it's the only way I could plumb it.
I would use one or two spacers to get it out there. You can shim up the driver side motor mount to clear the steering shaft.
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I bet a lot of you guys have seen the L6 DOHC head that is being made by 1_fast_z, by cutting a couple KA24 heads into thirds... In theory the oil and water passages line up, am I correct? I know the combustion chamber spacing is the same as an L engine. So besides the timing chain issue, what stops you from putting KA head, on an L16/L18/L20b?
If it's going to stay a 4 cylinder, why not just use the KA block and have the extra displacement? Yes the stroke is long but the extra CC's would add alot of needed torque.
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3.7, same as the 5 spd. Are you going to use the CV's?
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Reider Racing carries them.
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It won't bolt up without an adapter.
would a supra 5 speed bolt straight in?
how hot do your Z's get?
in Turbo / Supercharger
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Straight water will cause all kinds of rust and corrosion problems that will plug up a radiator enough to reduce it's ability to cool. Doesn't take that long. Was it clean or new when you got it? How long have you been running only water.
Mine will get to 200* if I'm stopped and the a/c is running and it's 110* out. If it's in the 80's it will be around 160ish.
Also if it's an old radiator you might want to get it rodded out. Here it's around $45. If you are running hot at speed it's not fan/shroud related but radiator. I don't even run a fan on my 71'.