Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Hey CLIFTON, I've been gathering all my parts for my 7MTswap when I retire from the MIL. in 3.5 months +- a few days,hours,seconds but who's counting. I hope you're not saying I would be better off using the 1991 5.0L I have sitting on my garage floor as it will be a street car only. I know you can't make this call for me but do you have regrets concerning the 7MT as a daily driver vs a 5.0L with It's low end torque. Thanks
I was happy with my set up but I went with a larger turbo and now miss the torque I had at lower rpms, although the power is great once it's going. The torque isn't bad but without boost small motors aren't stump pullers. A larger engine with the same turbo (T72) and power potential, I will have a larger usable power band. Concerning a 7M and 5.0. If they are both equally prepard, both turboed, the 5.0 will make more power and would be a better choice IMO, it's the dispacement thing. A completely stock 7M (stock turbo, fuel, ect) with just a little more boost is good for mid 350rwhp easily. 450-500rwhp with a slightly larger turbo and fuel and still pretty decent spool.
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I'm running 3 liters with turbo and plan to go bigger, 4.5l also with turbo in the near future. I'm a hair over 2500lbs with a/c, bumpers, ect. Unless one can get the weight under 2k I wouldn't go down on displacement. Torque (off boost) is a good thing on the street. You need cc's/ci's to get that.
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This place used to have alot of used slicks. I didn't see any listed though.
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You won't break everthing unless you are talking about drag launches. I have more torque and usually hook up fine in 2nd and above and have yet to break something on the street running R compound tires. You can fit a 275 in the rear without flares with the right offset and and 8" coilover, that's what I'm running
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I'm with Mortensen. They are a PITA on the street. I did it for awhile. Atleast get the cam lock latch if you get them. To use them properly you need to keep the shoulder straps tight. Like a 240 but it's worse with a harness as you have a strap on both sides, there isn't a quick unbuckle to roll up a passenger side window. I welded a bar between the shock towers to mount mine.
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You have both motors just sitting there and you want to know which will be easier. Comparred to what? Are you going to run the auto in the VH45? What Supra motor? Will it be left stock?
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Watch your duty cycle.
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Camber plates also make quick adjustment for dual purpose cars. I can change mine to autoX in less than 2 minutes.
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I don't know if you want suggestions or if this is mostly done.
I would run atleast DSM 450's (if you are looking to save money)and a little stiffer on the WG spring. You'll max out a 390 injector pretty easy with that turbo. You can run dsm injectors with a hose, I have. There is a pretty good ridged after you trim the plastic off. I would scrap the safc idea and run stand alone, you'll be happier in the end.
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This really should have a sticky. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97320&highlight=engine
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I would not be splitting the profit. If you can't finance the restore, you would be better off barrowing (home eq loan) and paying that back after the sale.
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Measure the voltage. Narrow bands produce 0-1v, .45v is stoich. The higher the voltage the richer.
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Although not the best location for a WG. I had mine mounted like that on the stock manifold for a while before moving the engine back. I didn't have any boost issues.
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Even though he posted it I find that extremely hard to believe, especially with a .63 hotside. I've seen other GT series stuff with higher turbine pressure too.
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since the intake pressure exceeds the exhaust pressure.
Not on street driven turbo engines.
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Reversion is a pumping inefficiency.
But if your turbine is sized correctly' date=' there will be no more pressure in the intake manifold than in the exhaust manifold pre-turbine. That means it's all back to pumping efficiency to determine VE.
But your last statement is exactly what was said earlier: decrease the pumping losses, and you increase VE. Putting a bigger, less restrictive turbine wheel on the exhaust decreases pumping losses. Air in and air out.[/quote']
Having measured my turbine pressure with 2 different P trim wheels I would have to say this is not realistic on a turbo setup that will be driven on the street. For a race car that will be in the rev range need for an extremely large a/r, sure.
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didnt come in.. was originally designed for.
Through some research I found that the M series was introduced in 1965. They were all inline 6's. Don't think it was really possible to fit an inline 6 in a 60's toyota truck. Stouts (truck) were small and came with the R series that ended in the 90's also.
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gotta remember.. 7m is to toyota as the KA24 is to nissan... it was originally designed for trucks.. not sports cars.
Really. What M motor came in a truck? I though the 5M was the first and was in a Supra.
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yeah sorry bout that mix up 490lift 280 duration...what turbine wheel would be the best for my t3 housing? i have heard people say to have it machined out to fit the t4 wheel but no one around here wants to do it for me cuz they are afraid of messing it up..also is there a place i can send my compressor wheel to get balanced..
Atleast a stage 3 wheel, I would do a stg 5. Try http://www.precisionturbo.net/. I know they cast there own turbine housings so they have the ability to machine them. Compressor wheels are already balanced. They are balanced seperately from the turbine unless the unit came from Tnetics. I've mixed and matched many turbo parts, even some from turbos fromTurbonetics and have yet to have a failure on one I've assembled.
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Increasing the air density doesn't increase the engines ability breathe (v/e) regardless if there is more air entering the enigne from the higher manifold pressure.
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A 60-1 will have no problem pushing 350 rwhp. You could go with a 62-1 but you'll need to change the compressor housing to match. The larger T series stuff is big shaft. I would recomend changing the turbine wheel to something that flows better first.
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Thanks for your reply' date=' but again i think i mis-worded. i already have an intercooler and would not even think about boosting without it.
the questions is: how much boost (with intercooler & megasquirt), 91 octane and 7.7:1 cr is safe? sorry for the confusion!
[/quote']You won't have a problem running 16-17 psi. Basically timing plays the biggest part in what safe is if the AFR is isn't too lean. Adding extra fuel (gasoline) will help cool some but not as much as most would like to believe. Running lower than mid 11's is unnecessary and will just cost HP without any further cooling benifit.
I think where you're getting the bad numbers is in the VE. Under boost, your VE is way above 100%Manifold pressure doesn't change VE.
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Do you have an excel log?
This was taken from the Meagsquirt site.
"Don't worry about how long your MAP sensor vacuum hose is. Intuitively it seems that shorter should be better. However, a few people have done tests to see how bad the effect of a long hose was on vacuum signal propagation. With a ~100 foot (~30 meters) coil of rubber tubing in between the MegaSquirt and the engine, the result was that no delay was apparent. This was with about a 10 millisecond resolution clock. The reason for this is that air has so little inertia that it moves very quickly in response to a vacuum (this is how we fill the cylinders, after all!)."
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gotta pay to play when you want to keep weight/size down and efficiency up.
why not splurge on a good turbo?
COME ON!!! you know you wanna
A GT series turbo isn't any more effecient on the compresor side. They aren't any smaller or lighter for similar HP rated turbos. The exaust wheel efficiency may lead to a slightly faster spool but what's 100-150 rpms compared to the extra $500+.
I would use a log manifold instead of that turbo header and move it in and forward. Do you have a top pic?
[/quote']
Cubic inches motors vs. light weight motors
in Other Engines
Posted
Many high mileage turbo desiels out there. My Z31t has 208k miles on it and has ben pretty good so far.