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Crower has a nice stainless rocker as does comp cams with their hi-tech stainless rocker. I ran the comp hi-techs before I went to the jesels and not one problem. Some of the cheap rockers have problems with high spring pressure. Even the entry level sportsman series jesel rockers have a limit as for seat pressure where the comp series jesels don't. The comp and pro series jesels are 7068 alloy where the sportsmas series jesels are 2024 alloy. There is usually a reason things are less expensive.

C A T is China made junk. Lots of quality controll problems. Stay away from them or any other C A T item.

Go to cranecams.com they recomend with aluminum heads and iron block to go .006 tight from hot setting to start. They also recomend the old tryed and true method for adjusting the valves. As the exhaust starts to open andjust the intake. As the intake opens and is almost closed adjust the exhaust.

I would say your machine shop put it to ya. a thou and a half can do it. Time for a new machine shop.

As the exhaust starts to open adjust the intake. As the intake opens and is almost closed adjust the exhaust. Do you have iron heads and block? If so adjust them .022 cold and check the clearance after you warm it up. Set it to .026 hot , let it cool back down and check your cold setting.

In my irs days I ran a 26X8.5X15 Mickey Thompson slick on a 15X6 rim.

what type of pistons and what was the ring end gaps on the top and second rings? Hypereutetic pistons need a larger gap to prevent the ends from butting and poping the ring lands.

I run Mobil 1 synthetic in the trans. Have run it for years and never a problem.

Run a cooler. I run my glide drag only and run a cooler. I know some guys that tow around and loop the line back into the trans but I like the idea of keeping the fluid cool for the later rounds. When you go on the brake the fluid temp goes up like right now. I also run a synthetic trans fluid as it also handles the heat better than regular trans fluid.

Sorry to see that picture Stony. I hope that the guy that did that to your car gets a proper ass wooping.

Try Chris Alstons Chassisworks in Sacramento. They have done back halfed Z's and full tube chassis Z's. If you are going to drag race it you may want to keep that glide. With drag racing, a good old 2 speed glide is the way to go.

I know that Ron had his Z for sale, not sure if he sold it or not. You can have a small block put the hurts on all the cobras you want if you just pick the right parts. My little old small block could pass for a 283 just looking at it. It's a 414 but you could still tell them its a 283 . Small dampner, internal ballance, yea, its a 283 just a real fast 283 .

Did you pay him up front? You need to dangle that carrot to make some guys move.

Stony, whats going on? Did your fab guy let you down?

If you are running mufflers you are better off using a vacume pump. The header evac systems don't work very well with mufflers. I pull vacume from the right front top valve cover with no problem of sucking excessive oil.

If I ran it on the street I would need some one to make bail for me. I wouldn't get far as the fuel cell holds 3 gallons. Trans is a glide with a 9" ford rear. Quit racing on the street back in 1987, went to the track and never went on the street again. At the track you know exactly how quick and fast you went. You should be able to clearance your rods to clear the cam. I still have a street Z but hardly drive it any more as that $2.25 a gallon horse piss they call gas doesn't go to far. It is an old Scarab conversion with a 327 and 4 speed super t-10 3.36 r-200 in a 71 240Z.

Yep, build my own engines. With the piston .010 in the hole you would want about a .025 head gasket. Shoot for about .035 fron the piston to the head. The cam is 282 290 @ .050 duration .736 .720 lift. on a 108 LSA, ground on a .900 base circle.

Visalia Cailfornia. One thing to look out for when running a 6" rod and a 3.75 " stroke is rod to cam clearance. A rod cut for stroker clearance will help, another think to think about is a small base circle cam to clear the rod. On my sbc I have the stroker clearance option on the carrillo's and run a .900 small base circle cam to gain clearance. The way they listed the second set of pistons was .025 in the hole, if your block is 9.010 you will have more compression. ...Jon

The pistons that you just listed are for a 6" rod. The 9.025 that they list would put the piston .025 in the hole. To get to zero deck you normally cut the block to a 9.00 deck heagth. I wouldnt know what your blocks deck is with out measuring it. Did they deck it .010 to a zero deck? That would make the deck heigh 9.010. Did they deck it .010 to clean up the surface? Most times the deck won't be even so decking each side an equal amount will result in one bank being lower than the other. You need a good machine shop that will cut to a specified heigth. On most street engines as long as you have a flat deck you will be OK. The first set of pistons you listed are for a 5.57 inch rod. The second set is for a 6 inch rod. What length of rod are you going to run in this engine? If you run the second set of pistons on a stock length 400 rod it is going to be in the hole so far it will look like the Grand Canyon.

Those pistons have a ch of 1.56. they will work in with a 3.75 stroke crank if you use the stock 5.57 length 400 rod. They will not work with a 5.7 350 rod. If you are building a 400 with stock rods and crank they will work. To figure compression with those pistons you would need to know how many cc's in the valve notches, how far down in the hole your pistons are , the thickness and bore of the head gasket , and how many cc's in the heads. Has the block been decked? do you know the deck height of your block? Taking a guess on the valve notches they are probably -4 cc's.

You need to know rod length to get the right c.h. on the pistons. The head cc also plays a role in the compression .

What crank and rod are you using with your 400 block? What cylinder head are you using and how much compression do you want?

Yea, its fun alright. The car really 60 foots hard. Most of the guys that I run with in B/Gas at the Goodguys events 60ft in the mid 1.20's for the 8.60 index. When you leave at 6100 rpm off the transbrake with a 1.89 first gear and a 4.86 rear gear it really zipps out there. It really ticks them off when you whip their Camaros, Mustangs, Vetts, ect with a Datsun. And run a small block on top of it.

I have seen quite a few early 283 blocks go 4". Hot rodders were making 302's as Chevy called them long before 1967. For displacement its boreX boreX strokeX .7854 X the number of cylinders. As far as the rev ability its a lot more than just the stroke. My 414 sbc, 4.165 bore and 3.8 stroke regularly turns 8100 rpm at the end of the quarter mile. Cam profile, valve weight and spring pressure play a little into the game. I must admitt that piston speed gets a little up there when you combine stroke with rpm. Nothing wrong with thinking about diffrent bore stroke combos. Some times you can find a stocking piston with the right c.h. to work in the combo you are playing with.