Spyder Z 15

How about TTing the N/A motor? http://www.zfilms.org/Stories/Z32/2006/Chapter9/index.html It did break though. Also I've found JDM motors in l.a. county for $1100 and it comes with turbos, but they tell you to throw them away. Crazy people. The motor isn't the expensive part, it's all the extras that'll drain the wallet.

I want to add info and take out some info in my ad in classifieds so people don't get confused. Can we remove the time limit in that section only?

Planning on going TT, T, or n/a? Any idea about hood clearance or will you have to make a new manifold?

I found an intake manifold design for a VH45 in a Z32 I thought you should see here.

I like the new format a lot. It's working for me so far.

Unfortunately the only one I have is brand new and slightly weathered.

Well, I'm the 1st thread ever now.

I'm I the only one who can't post an ad. I can't seem to find the post new ad button anywhere. Maybe I'm just special. Can anyone help me out or point me in the right direction?

That's not close to Christmas My wife's b-day is 12/22 and my daughter's is 12/23.

Check venus-auto.com I believe they are in NorCal too.

Do a 280YZ in the test too.

http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2007/2/22_The_Fender_Flares_and_Wheels.html

I like 98% of it. I don't care for what looks to be the Z32 turn signals in the air dam, but otherwise dead sexy.

I just got back from the garage, it's a regular one. Now I'm trying to get the shaft out, but it doesn't want to move. Time for the search button.

I'm rebuilding a stock turbo right now. I'm in the very early stages right now. I've got the compressor off and cleaned pretty well, but I'm having a problem getting the bolts off of the compressor side. I put some liquid wrench on them hoping that will help. I broke the head off of one of the bolts so far and have 2 off. Now I need to find a drill press to dill out the old bolt. I have new bolts that came with my rebuild kit. GHtokyo wrote: Did you determine if the shaft has a left-hand threaded nut or a regular one? I'm not that far yet.

9/27/07 Mini-update I'm starting to rebuild a stock 280zx turbo I got off of someone from another forum. I've only got the turbine housing off so far and did 1 long dip in carb cleaner. Got 98% of the dirt off and the other 2% will take some work with a piece of a rag and a toothpick. I should've taken a before pic cause this thing has 300k miles on it.

Thanks for the info Tony. Maybe once I upgrade I'll do that. For now I'll just clean the hell out of the stock one.

Thanks for the input everyone. I guess that whenever I upgrade the turbo I'll just get it ceramic coated. Thanks cygnusx1 for that pic. Since I don't have a heat shield anyway that would be a good idea. Or I have a Z32 turbo shield in my garage that I might be able to modify. Hmmmmmmmmmm Here's my turbine housing that I just dipped in carb cleaner. 98% done. That last 2% is going to take a little effort with a small screwdriver and cloth. http://www.forums.empirez.com/forum/gallery_image.php?action=view&iid=2215#pictop

Any idea about the exhaust side?

I'm rebuilding a stock 280ZX turbo right now and I'm cleaning it (carb cleaner is flippin' magical for grease) and I wanted to paint it either a black or a gray color. I know I could get it ceramic coated, but I'm just looking for a spray paint right now. I was wondering if the duplicolor engine paint or the duplicolor high temp paint would be enough to stand the heat. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I just bought the 280zx turbo rebuild kit off of eBay and I got instructions included with it so I thought maybe someone might find it useful when searching. I know I need this. And if anyone else has anything to add please do. INSTRUCTIONS: The first step in rebuilding your turbo is marking your turbine housing and compressor housing in relationship to the bearing center section. You can do this with paint, a punch, etc...This will ensure, once you are finished rebuilding the turbo, that it will bolt directly back up to your engine. The next step: remove the turbine housing bolts that hold the turbine housing to the center section, there will either be 4 or 6 13mm bolts. Next, remove the 6, 1/2" or 13mm bolts that hold the compressor housing to the backing plate. Then place the turbo's turbine nut into a vice holding it firmly, the nut is odd-shaped because of balancing, but you can normally get two sides in the vice. Mark the turbine shaft with paint on the blade that lines up with the oil drain of the center section. Next, mark the compressor wheel to the backing plate with paint, or by lightly scribing a mark on both surfaces. Remove the 3/8" compressor wheel nut and then remove the compressor wheel. ***Special Note*** Some are left-hand threaded shafts. If turned counter clockwise, it will break the shaft off, turn it clockwise to remove the nut if you see that it is a left-hand thread. With a rubber mallet, lightly tap the threaded turbine shaft to remove it from the bearing center section. Once removed, place bearing center section in a vice, holding it firmly by the oil inlet and oil outlet flat surfaces. Now, remove the 4 backing plate bolts. They will either be 10mm or 7/16". With a rubber mallet, lightly tap aluminum backing plate to separate it from the bearing housing. There are 3 types of compressor seals for the T3's, T4's and T3/T4 hybrid turbos. The first one is a one piece carbon seal, this type of seal is pressed into and out of the backing plate as an assembly. The second type is a 4-piece carbon seal, this type consists of a carbon seal, o-ring, eared washer, and a spring. To remove this type of seal, first pick the black carbon seal out of the backing plate, next using a pick remove the o-ring, then turn the earred washer until its ears line up with the stakes in the backing plate, and finally remove the spring. When reassembling this type of seal, first install the spring with the small end down, next the earred washer, then the o--ring, and finally the carbon seal. The last type of seal used in these turbos is the dynamic seal, this type of seal installs onto the thrust collar, use a pick to remove it. To install it press it over the collar with your thumbs until it fits into the groove. There are also two types of thrust bearings used on T3's, T4's, and T3/T4 hybrid turbos. One is the standard 270 degree (not a full circle), if you have this type use a pick and pull the thrust bearing off of the bearing housing. The other type of thrust bearing is the 360 degree (full circle), it can be held by 3 allen-head screws, or by the anti-rotation pins in the bearing housing. To remove it, either remove the three screws, or use a pick to pull if off of the anti-rotation pins. Now, remove the small snap ring holding the front journal bearing in, and use a pick to remove the journal bearing. Next, turn the bearing center section upside down and remove the rear snap ring and rear journal bearing. Now, you have almost completely disassembled the turbo. The last thing you must do on a dynamic seal turbo is remove the piston ring from the thrust collar, or on a carbon seal turbo, remove the carbon seal , o-ring, washer, and spring from the backing plate. Now, remove the piston ring from the turbine shaft, and the turbo is disassembled. ***Special Note*** Carefully check all sealing surfaces where piston rings sit when installed. These surfaces must be smooth and round. Also, check the grooves that the piston rings sit in on the turbine shaft and the thrust collar. The piston ring must sit in these grooves tightly, with only 0.001 or 0.002 clearance. Any more than this will cause oil leaks. Another special note: Journal bearing surfaces and thrust collar surfaces must be completely smooth and have no scratches or nicks that you can feel with your finger nail. Places to check: journal bearing bore in the bearing housing, journal bearing surface on the turbine shaft, and thrust collar surfaces that touch the thrust bearing. *One more note:* Bearing housing choking is a very common problem with all turbos. It is caused by the turbo not being properly cooled off when the engine is shut off, and/or irregular oil changes. To check for this problem, look for black carbon deposits throughout the inside of the bearing housing, especially on the rear side where the turbine shaft goes in. The bearing housing should have an open area that you can see light through from the oil drain back to the rear sealing area where the shaft goes in. If you cannot see through the bearing housing, from these two areas, then you have severe choking and all of this carbon must be removed, or the turbo will fail almost instantly on startup. Now, completely and thoroughly clean the whole turbo with solvent. It needs to be very clean, this is very, very important. Reverse the procedure above and reassemble the turbo using high quality engine assembly lube on all bearings and sealing surfaces. **360 Degree thrust bearing installation** First, install the beveled washer with the beveled side down towards the journal bearing. Next, place 360 degree thrust bearing on to the bearing housing locating it carefully on the 2 anti-rotation pins. Lastly, install the thrust collar into the thrust bearing with the piston ring seal facing up. When torquing the compressor nut, follow this procedure: If this is a left-handed thread, tighten the nut down hand-tight until it touches the top of the compressor wheel. Then, using a 3/8" wrench, tighten the nut approximately 1/8 of a turn. This will properly torque the nut and seat the bearings and thrust parts. On right-hand nuts, tighten the nut hand-tight until it touches the top of the compressor wheel, then turn with a 3/8" wrench approximately 1/4 of a turn.

1st time I've seen eD gear here. Nice. Ov.2?

Thanks anyway.

Any chance of getting that manifold with all the fuel injection stuff still attached?

Is turbo extra?