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Well, the filter sometimes does go between the pump and carburator, my truck is this way. But the Z definately had the filter on the section of the fuel line before the pump.

It sounds like your fuel pump can't keep up, if you have a mechanical one, you should rebuild it or replace it. If you have an electric one, you should measure the pressure, it should be around 5-6 psi. If it is not, then you need a better fuel pump. I have an aftermarket electric fuel pump on my Z, it puts out 11psi at the pump by the tank. Then I use a regulator in the engine compartment to regulate it to 5.5psi. I have stock lines and it still pulls strong at 6k. I did have an issue when I first hooked it up, I put a fuel filter between the regulator and the carbs once and it felt like it ran out of fuel above 4k, which is rediculous. So I put the filter before the regulator and no problem since. If you've searched "fuel pumps" on the forum, there is a lot of good information about the pitfalls of a remote pump. They recommend bigger lines if you only run a 7psi pump at the tank, and a lot of people have trouble running a pump in the engine compartment for variuos reasons. More detail: I have a cutoff/primer switch, so when I haven't used the Z for a long time, the bowls are empty, but when I flip the primer switch for just a second or two, the bowls are full again, then the car starts. On the Z it takes a good 6 weeks for the bowls to go dry. Now that I think about it, all these bowls from all these carburators just evaporating into the air can't be good for the environment...

The carburator on my truck is always empty when I go to start it after a few weeks, but the fuel pump prims it up again after a couple turns. Why would it matter if the floats are empty, it should still fill back up after a few turns. Why would you have to prime it? There's where I'd start. How long between starts, a few days or a few weeks? Maybe my truck carb is bad too? Hmmm, it's only two years old and always did this, but I never cared because it refills and starts after three seconds or less.

I used a formula when estimating a fabrication project once, something like if they charged $70/hr then they'll charge 1/4hr per setup plus machine time. A typical complicated part was $450 which turned out to be a good estimate on average. Of course a simple aluminum plate with a few holes in it could cost as little as $70, and they'll charge 2-3X more for steel machining costs. Usually material cost is negligible. In one case I got a couple turned parts, and a pair of really complex parts for $500 total, but I had made a deal with the guy to limit my maximum liability. I told him I'd give him $500 material included regardless of how much time he spent. Don't get nit picky about scratches, if it's aluminum you can polish them out easily. Ask for 6061 they'll have it laying around. (6061-T6 is a typical aerospace material for machinign pruposes, it's tough and strong.) You could get lucky on price, but I recommend negotiation before they agree on the job, and get the following in writing: 1. Agree on a total price 2. Agree on a due date and give them some monetary incentive for early delivery, and tell them you need it by some special event and you have a backup part so if it's not done by the deadline you don't want it (be reasonable, make up the event date after he tells you approximate timing). 3. Schmoose, compliment, get a good dialog going, don't go in a rush, and don't get nervous. Talk about a bad experiance you had with one of his competitors etc. 4. Write everything up ahead of time on a contract, fill in the dates and sign it with him. This works wonders for getting a lower quote and if he's excitied about future work you may give him, he might even get it done same day. Sorry for the long post.

Mine is a Miller Helmet like used on American Chopper (before they got all sappy in Europe). It has battery and solar, the opening in the front is really big. I've logged about 200 hours with it over the last 2 years and it never had a glitch. It has sensitivity adjustment and darkness adjustment from 9-14 ?(too lazy to go check). You can set it so sensitive that it darkens with the florescent light on the garage door opener. I think it was $275, but I wanted something with all the frills, I beleive it was a good choice with all those options. Also it had a battery low warnign light, I always keep it in the closet in my bedroom, and it hasn't died yet. It also has a button you press to turn it on, it'll blink three timees to tell you it's working. After 12 hours of welding 50% duty I had no red eyes like with my old helmet which I had to akwardly lower (never could get a good head shake down) and usually I'd end up with a weld that srated just about 1/8" out of place, or get flashed at least once an hour. Much better now, and I don't have to forget to lower it, cause I can keep it down all the time. It also worked really well outdoors in full sunlight because of the sensitivity and darkness adjustment. No, I don't work for miller, and I have a Lincoln welder.

This is what i did, it made them look better, I just used buttonheads, cheaper tham bumper bolts. Still wrinkled though front and back. I couldn't straighten them fully, and they're hugely expensive to get new. They won't look good wrinkled even if they are all bondo'd up.

1. Try different terms, I found some very good posts on vent lines. I think yours are similar to mine, but you really will find good posts on this with diagrams and everything. I took off my inside panels and replaced all the hoses. It still smells after I park the car, and if I stick my nose near the right rear panel, I still get a whiff of gas, but it's not as bad. I want to remove the canister and all lines from the inside of the car, I also want a bigger tank, I might go fuel cell if I can figure out how to run a pipe to fill from the original hole and without running lines thru the car. Porbably not easy. I read where someone removed all the tubes and just ran the lines to eachother and it was ok. You have to be careful because if you plug the lines at the tank you'll only be able to fill the tank 7-10 gallons. Try another search, the search doesn't work sometimes I noticed.

Let us know if your engine will turn and give more information if you have any.

I'm not entirely sure what temperature ranges are acceptable for aluminum filled epoxy, but I have used it before and you can find stuff that is reasonably strong. We used it to fill oversized holes to redrill and retap and it didn't have any pullout on non-critical joints. I would suspect the strength is poor vs. structural grade aluminum, but vs. cast it couldn't be that bad. Also there are brands that have good fatigue properties. Anyway, call the shops and ask their opinion on cast parts, another good idea is to give them a sample of similar material and ask them to try it, they would most likely try it without charge. You don't want them to "try it" on the real part if you suspect it may be unweldable (as some have suggested). Also do some research on weldability of cast aluminum and with this information, ask the weld shops a few key questions, if they sound like they know what they are talking about it's a good chance they do. I'm not experianced enough with welding aluminum to comment on the weldability of cast aluminum, perhapse it could be analogous to the difficulties associated with welding cast iron? Most shops will be more than happy to talk to you in person, espeically if you say you are starting up a shop or something and are really looking for a welder to set up long term relations with. Then when they call back later after this project is complete, say "I went another direction with the aluminum, we are having them machined." or whatever. I think the key is to start a dialog with local shops.

Find a local shop, get a quote, make sure you exaplin completely what you want done, and they should be able to help you for around $50 it doesn't look that bad. I don't like welding Aluminum, not enough practice. It has to be really clean, it wouldn't hurt to have the parts ready to weld, prepped, or you'll pay them to do it and they might not be as careful. Hope that helps, don't be afraid to go to the local shop and talk to the owner in person, and it wouldn't hurt if you say you own a shop or something so they think there's more where this came from, they might even give you a discount.

If you can't start sometimes but it runs fine otherwise, it is most likely wiring. If you can't start one day, bring a spare wire, hook it to the solenoid and touch it to the battery, if it turns over, welcome to the nightmare of internal wiring problems. If it won't turnover, then your grounds are probably getting rusty, remove ALL grounds from the battery and starter, clean and replace. If that doesn't fix it, a new starter, or rebuilding the starter might. Good luck

I had the worst luck with my Truck until I checked the battery ground to the block and ground from the block to chassis, it was rusted, cleaned it up and never had that problem again. 1. The click means your solenoid is probably working. If you have your headlights on and try to turn over and the lights go to nothing, your battery is too weak, even though it's new it may need a charge. 2. If you can put the car in gear and rock it a little, if the engine moves at all (see the fan moving) it's not siezed. 3. If the click is not coming from the solenoid, then your wiring is probably to blame. 4. If it won't turn over, you most likely have one of two problems (wiring, or siezed block). Try to hot wire the starter with a wire directly to the solenoid from the battery, if all it'll do is click, and your engine win't budge if you rock it, that's bad Hope this helps.