aviatorx

This is not Z related, but if anyone can solve my problem I'd be most grateful. The issue is with a '93 Ford 3.0L (no SHO) with idling problems - the rpm's hunt high (~1000 rpm )to low (~ 500rpm)KOEO codes are 111, KOER codes are all non specific 116,129,167,412,521,and 536. The dist cap, rotor, wires are all new (problem existed before they were changed), plugs have been checked and are good. Base timing is correct, but the kicker is that when idling with the SPOUT connector out, the idle settles nicely into base timing, when the SPOUT connector is in the RPM wants to roam. Occasionally the RPM will settle when the vehicle has been driven for a while and is well warmed. The EGR and IAC have been removed and cleaned of carbon, and the IAC has bee checked for shorting (without a breakout box I can't do much more than check resistances, shorts, and proper voltage supply). The TPS has been checked and seems OK as well - I'm stumped. The vehicle seems to be OK otherwise - no hesitation and acceleration is good ... Today I'm looking for vacuum leaks.... Any clues?

I'm hardly the one to be preaching moral standards, and I don't claim higher ground than anyone else here. I perhaps should have tempered my comments in the greater context of having related this thread to my own son rather than trying to reign in the obvious freedom we all have to relate their own experiences here. I do appreciate the huge desire to lean heavily on the right foot of a well tuned, home built sportscar...I even envy those who are paving new ground in some of their transformations. I just get to wondering about the effect of having an impressionable youth (my son) reading about street drags, highway races, and fishtailing through the parking lots combined with his longing to get my own project completed. I do want him to appreciate and share in that effort, and I do realize that keeping him safe in that Z will be a lot of my own responsibility, but largely in concert with his own sensibility.

Think for a minute what goes on here. Quite often someone will post a 'kill' and get patted on the back for taking on yet another challenger and leaving him in the dust - in what is most certainly a street race - and which is most certainly illegal in every state in the US. Don't think for a moment that you haven't encouraged others to do the same, whether it happens today, tomorrow, or sometime after they've enhanced their Z with yet another power upgrade ...... If you choose to race, it's your decision, and I've been as guilty of it as anyone else here when presented the challenge at a stop light or on the highway. What I think has gotten out of hand is exactly what Pete has pointed out - if you get caught, shame on you. You've been baited into a street race, and you ran with it. If you involve an innocent party and cause harm, then may the full weight of the justice system slap you. Petes recolection of the kid in the Subaru is a perfect example, albeit one where the race in the drivers head resulted in the death of his passengers as well. That driver is exactly the kind of person that needs not to be encouraged, but properly steered into the right direction. Driving fast can be fun, but do it in an atmosphere where the only risk is to you and your vehicle, not among the general public. Perhaps a lot of the energy spent here can be channeled into encouraging others to go to a driving school, to participate in a car club and enter a car into a a road race series, drag strip, or other venue to get their driving thrills? I guess what got me going was the effort spent in showing methods to manipulate words in an effort to avoid a ticket for a moving violation. If you did it, take the ticket and pay it...lesson learned. If you are innocent, there is a venue for you, and it's called court. Plain. Simple. I have a 13 ear old son who has been working on my Z with me, and someday hopes to drive it. I think the sweat equity he's putting into it will earn him that priveledge. Since day one in the garage he's constantly asked "how fast will it go?" ....I refuse to answer - he doesn't need to know, and I will not give him a figure to attempt when he does drive it. I did let him read this entire thread, and his comments about the Subaru driver were right on "that's just plain stupid". But when he reads about some of the kills posted, his eyes light up and he immagines himself doing the same. He even points out the ricers on the street and mentions how they will 'go down' to the Z ..... Dont think for a moment there isn't encouragement here.

This has got to be one of the most cynical, inane threads I've ever seen on this boad! Rather than discussing safety, build-ups, tech info, successful swaps, etc., the board has degraded into a ill guided quasi-legal stew of heresay on how to badmouth a cop/judge and get away with it? I don't know whether to be more ashamed at posting to this issue or by having read it, but I'm certain of one thing - this BBS is WAY off track in pursuing any sort of legal wordplay on topics like this amongst a host of VERY impressionable young members who are pursuing a hybrid build up! How much wasted time has gone into parsing words, disecting posts, and arguing the benefits of sticking your foot in your mouth? This post has gone from "how many tickets have you gotten", to a reflection on a horrible accident, to a useless diatribe on what the meaning of "is" is ..... The facts of (this) life is: if you reclessly endanger the life of another you DESERVE what's coming to you. This BBS wasn't set up on the premise on breaking existing motor vehicle law and discussing how to aviod punishment, was it?....If so, change the charter. If this is now the seat of the dissident movement for a new republic, count me out. Let's kill this thread. I don't think any of us wants to be the one to plant the seed in any kids head that it's OK to speed, race on the public roads, to be a menace in their vehicle, argue minutiae with a cop, OR to feed line of misguided advice on how to beat a ticket.

...what kind of oil are you using in your carbs?...seems to me that the carb pistons are hanging up with either no oil or too high a viscosity..... use either a 5-30 / 10-30 weight ...a lower viscosity oil will allow the carbs to respond faster but will leak down into the intake and burn. You may also have air leaks at the throttle shaft or gasket area(s) but check the damper oil first, then for air leaks, then idle mix adj screw

Use a slightly diluted solution of muratic acid to etch the cement...but more importantly, and this can not be overstated - CLEAN the floor, and then clean it again! If the floor is older make sure you wash the surface well, especially if you live in the rust belt where salt is used on the roads. Nothing will lift paint faster than salts leaching out of the cement pad... I, too have used the Home Depot floor paint and have nothing but compliments on it's weability over the past 2 years, and you can't beat $15/gal pricing!

...looks like engine failure followed by compressor stall followed by loss of control. Back seater ejected into the fireball before the drogue deployed....pilot drove it (safely) into the ground. kind of sucks

OK...perhaps it's not on 4 wheels, but this is a very cool example of out of the box thinking! The concept has been flying for over one year to prove the technology employed, and has already met several of the design goals....some cool reading - enjoy [image]http://www.cartercopters.com/CleanCC2.jpg

Nice work! I like how you've tied in the frame rails to the crossmember - but will you have clearance issues with the exhaust headers? Have you trial fit the motor after this installation? I guess there are lots of questions....keep us informed!

bronze....silver....whatever, but that rear bumper is fugly

Looks like the silver (?) Z has the custom ragtop and california Z rear quarters with a Kaminari tail.....the rear panel looks custom made...interesting example The green one makes me feel...well - green! To each his own I suppose, but the work is commendable

MAS RACING PRODUCTS 2288 University Ave. St. Paul, MN 55114 (612) 644-6811 ??????????????

....it's probably not what you intended to do with that t3/t4 hybrid awaiting installation on your L28, but it's certainly a clear case of supreme out of the box thinking! Enjoy http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/

Tabco used to offer them but my catalog (1993!)doesn't show the part.......Vic Britt may have them but you may be left to search out OEM replacements from your local dealer.....or, try Courtesy Nissan in Richardson TX-I bought inners and outers from them in the early '90's for my '73 240 restoration - they have a great parts department for Z's and offer discounts to internet Z members.....In fact, if they can't find it it probably no longer exists in OEM inventory.....good luck!

There is a difference in processes, obviously.....heat treating 'relaxes' the metal, causing built in stresses made during manufacturing or machining to be less of a factor. Cyogenic treatment 'densifies' the metal and produces stress relief as well as hardened wear surfaces in the treated part. Cryogenic treated parts tend to be those that have large wear surfaces (cylinder bores benefit greatly) and heat treated parts tend to be those that may lend themselves to brittle failures...... Money is usually the driving factor in these decisions!

Pete,Phil, that is the next item on the list of underhood rust to contend with....the battery tray will come out just as you described, but I'm going to have to remove some metal there because the rust damage has thinned the sheet metal to an undesireable gauge! Rather than boxing the area, I'm looking to making a template of the area and having a replacement section fabricated that can be welded in.... there may be an opportunity to have some additional parts made for resale should the effort prove successful...? I know there is a ready market for such a part! Anyhow, there is instant gratification in cleaning out the aforementioned rust to find good sheet metal underneath. I was very pleased with my efforts, and the results achieved provide momentum to go forward. So, now some more clean up, fab some engine and tranny mounts, and hello LS1/T56! ... and I'm thinking fender flares, coil overs, fat rubber with disc conversions on all 4 corners and a G nose to round it out. More pics to come....

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=109091&uid=70046&members=1 http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=109091&uid=70046&members=1 Ok...perhaps a day just to get the pics posted! Just wanted to share a simple frame rail clean-up that may give hope to those with similar rust issues.... This rebuild candidate for a V-8 conversion is still a long way from completion (I feel like Mike and Pete in that regard) but the motor and tranny arrive soon so I expect to hit it hard over the winter and be ready for paint in the spring ..... [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: aviatorx ] [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: aviatorx ] [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: aviatorx ]

Here's a write-up on the process - worthwhile reading if you are unaware of the benefits... http://www.onecryo.com/onecryo/motorsport-prijune98.htm

I'd agree with RPMS.....some will be willing to quote on a particular job - others will only work for an hourly flat rate. The difference is usually based on how busy the shop is or the quality of the repair. If you get a shop to quote on a job, be sure to get it in writing and spec out in detail what you want so that there are no questions about your expectations!..and their fee $$ [ September 21, 2001: Message edited by: aviatorx ]

...seems like someone (previous owner?) has removed the rear lifting eye. It is normally located on the drivers side rear of the head.... you can attach your lift chain to the rearmost intake manifold bolt with a homemade plate (ensure it is tightened so the bolt is kept in shear) and hoist away

.. you might consider having the chasis media blasted using a polymer resin or crushed walnut shells. It's non evasive to the metal and does a neat job of paint stripping while being less agressive than sand blasting. Be prepared to shoot a primer afterwards as a protective coat against oxidation while you plan any repairs that may follow the strip.

...yes, the holes are also used for vapor recovery, but the concept remains the same for detection of the fuel level in the tank.

When your gas gauge reads empty, your tank is filled with air instead of fuel. As you add fuel, the air must move out of the tank to make way for the gas. Next time you fill your car at the gas station, take a look at the pump nozzle. You will find a hole about a half inch from the end of the nozzle. This hole is connected to a small pipe that travels through the nozzle to the handle. When you fill your gas tank, some of the displaced air flows through the hole in the nozzle into the pipe. When the tank is full, the hole will be below the gasoline level and no air will pass through the pipe. A mechanical switch inside the nozzle detects when the flow of air stops and shuts off the gas. You may have noticed that, after the pump shuts off, you can get more gas in your tank by pulling the nozzle out of the tank a bit. This is because you’re moving the position of the hole relative to the gas level and allowing the mechanical switch to reopen.

Tom McBurnie is a reputable maunfacturer and has very much pioneered the GTO conversion for the Z car. You can check out his website at http://www.Thunderranch.com His design is probably a tad truer to the original Ferrari, but the subtle differences between his and say, Stable or reaction Research are what makes for interesting choices. Some have even used front ends from one supplier and rears from another! McBurnie and John Washington have great reputations. Stable is being run under new ownership - the owner (Jeff) is online here now and then and has good molds for a project to be based on. Any of these guys would be willing to have you visit before making a purchase ...

Rain gutters stil exist in new cars - they're just intergrated behind the top edge of the door frame, which these days are carried into the roofline for improved aerodynamics and reduced wind noise ....just take a look by opening the door of your late model auto and see for yourself. Of course, triple weather stripping also helps! As for removal of the drip edge, wouldn't it make sense to tack weld a rod to the inner roof seam to maintain the unibody stiffness before you remove the gutter? Seems like a logical measure to provide a good seam and outside finish. None-the-less, a very cool mod that certainly updates the look of the car.