aviatorx

Seems to be a few of us ex-military trained types here: Mother Rucker 1984, Commercial rotorcraft-helicopter w/ instrumet privledges, Huey, Cobra & Loach ex-Cav and plenty of ass/trash time flying Part 135 in the NE before settling into the midwest.

great restoration! Same color as my old '73...... but without the 2400 lbs of rust .... Very nice, and something to be proud of.

MRE's back when they were first issued. But as Army aviators we soon learned about the effects of the soon developed internal gas and altitude! It's all fun when the fart contest begins at 5000'.... but quickly ends when someone sh*ts their pants and ruins it for everyone else. They eventually figured out that the more gaseuos producing MRE's were not to be issued to aviation units .... good times Great story

Unfortunately, rack bushings are no longer available but can be manufactured by your favorite machinist - but that isn't the problem you described. Look at the diameter of the OEM steering wheel - it's huge! It's designed that way to help overcome the forces required to move the front wheels in an unassisted rack and pinion set up. The only way to truely get 'better' low speed steering is to upgrade to a power rack, and that has been done and documented here at HybridZ. Worn rack bushings would exhibit themselves as front end wobble at higher speeds, and even then you have a better chance of feeling worn outer / inner rod ends before a worn rack bushing. It is too bad that the rack & pinion rebuild kits are NLA, though .....

http://www.blackdragonauto.com

...never go higher than you're willing to fall

Do you have a vacuum autoclave to be able to properly set the prepreg? There probably isn't alot of aftermarket availability on prepreg sheet (carbon or arimid) but try http://www.torayusa.com/tca/products/prepreg.htm and see if you can locate a local rep who might help you out?

it looks like the California Z kit from JCR

Mine simply refers to a former occupation as a helicopter test pilot in the US Army

a core plug with a remote pressure gauge to see if you are really boosting coolant? Strapping or screwing a fixture to keep the plugs is only a temporary fix if you have a pressure leak into the block, so why not (in the interest of pure science if nothing else) confirm or disprove a possible head leak by monitoring the colant pressure? Otherwise, throw in a radiator cap with a lower blow off rating. If it's a reoccurring problem, there is certainly something that is constant that needs to be addressed...no?

The rails are hollow over the full length. An even older trick was to use a combination of oil and wax to coat hidden body channels for rust protection - this was before asphalt types of undercoating were developed. Provided both rust proofing and sound deadening attributes, but tended to slowly melt away .......

http://www.rsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/16_valve_turbo_volvo.htm The B234F 16 valve head was highly sought after by the Merkur crowd, and has also been used as a high flow head for other Volvo turbo conversionss. The Ford application is not a direct bolt on job, but the power gains are reportedly great. The link above shows some turbo conversions on Volvo B230 blocks .....might be an interesting conversion into a Z. Come to think of it.... I'm driving a '90 Volvo 740GLE wagon with a B234F 16 valve head right now! Here's one conversion: http://www.sounddomain.com/id/qwikxr Let us know how it goes

OK.....my mistake for falling into the trap I should have put "what Bush has reputedly done ..." in that last paragraph, but the point was made that the Heinz holdings have no relavence to the outsourcing comment.

no offense - but none of those manufacturing sites export back into the USA. This isn't outsourcing.....it's global business. Now if those products were to come back to the domestic market at prices that undercut N.A. suppliers due to a foreign labor cost advantage, you'd have a leg to stand on. What Bush has done is given tax credit to companies that have exported manufacturing jobs offshore and then import the manufactured goods into the US - BIG difference.

The list could be as short as transmission, clutch master and slave cylinders, new pedal box, flywheel and clutch asembly, and finally driveshaft. Another route could be the entire engine and tranny out of your favorite wrecking yard queen - to include all the above items and: accessories and plumbing, ecu and wiring, perhaps an R-200 rear end.... the skys the limit. As far as what fits what - any first gen series 4 speed and zx 5 speed tranny will mate to the bell housing. Driveshafts are not always interchangable, so search for threads on that issue as it has been well covered and documented. ...have you thought about swapping in a turbo motor and trans from a ZX?