MONZTER
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Posts posted by MONZTER
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That sounds like a great ride, I wish I got a chance to travel more and ride new spots. We have a website for our local rides, it is www.geoladders.com
Jeff
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Hey, Thanks for the pics, Thats really clean the way the eyebolts hold the factory belts and the harness. I like your harness bar as well. Do you or anybody else know if the shoulder belts could hook to a really solid strut bar?, or is it simply too high. Does anybody know what the correct angle for the shoulder belts should be.
Thanks again for the help, I think I now have some work to do
Jeff
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Looks like Cactus at Whiting.
You win the $1.00 prize; Correct. Are you a Mountain Biker? I assume you are since you know the trail. Whitting is our lunch ride loop, great fun for a quick hour ride. My office is 5 min away. Do you also ride in the Cleveland National Forest? What are your favorite trails?
Good talking to ya this weekend
Jeff
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What kind of Helmet Cam?
I bought one of the Oregon Scientific Helmet Cams---it's not exactly a 'lipstick' camera, but it works O.K. for our Bonneville Car.
Always looking for digital motion cameras that I can use to monitor various things during the run...call it a 'visual datalog'...
I bought the 2Gb SD storage chip at Fry's for something like $19, and now I can record 2 hours digitally on the thing. Really disgusting when you consider I paid almost $1500 for my VHS CamCorder in 1985...and this one was a whole $167 + the Memory Chip cost!
Hi Tony, You camera sounds pretty cool and simple. The one I got is called a Viosport 3 http://www.viosport.com/ It plugs into a Sony Handycam to capture full 500 lines resolution in DVD quality. It is defiantly more hassle having to run the wires, but the image stabilization built into the camera really helps. I will try it tomorrow on the side of my car. I want to see how the tires roll over in the corners.
Have fun
Jeff
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Got a new helmet lipstick camera to use on my car during autocross. I couldn't wait to try it, so I put it on my Mountain Bike for a test ride. The video came out out pretty cool. Can't wait to put it on my front bumper for the next practice.
Check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCIsYrT5f_w
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how about including some dyno/engine specifications information =)
that would make this quite comprehensive
Good Idea. Here is the Dyno chart from the above setup
The headwork on my car is the reason for the timing like it is. I have tried advancing it further with 100 octane and felt no difference. here is a picture of the chambers
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Hey, I am sure some of you may not want to share this info, but some of you might find this info helpful to others. Want to share some of your Standalone settings? Me first:
Please remember, everybody's car is different, and one persons settings may kill someone else's engine, Please view with care
PS I would love to see someone's Turbo Setup and compare it to my NA Setup
Jeff
L-24+1 NA
10.75: compression
MSA Satge 3 cam
Electamotive Tec 3
Target AFR
Timing Curve
VE
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Amen!!! The quickest way to ruin your hobby is to make it a business. It has to be for the love of it. The reason good art is so beautiful is that is was done for no other reason but to make the artist happy. Commercial art is usually trying to make everybody happy, and in doing so really becomes a compromise. I know there is a lot of you out there who know what I mean.
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2239 lbs no driver 2404lbs with me in it
622 613
590 579
51.4 front
48.6 rear
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Sal At MotorSport Auto ordered me some a couple years back, dont remember how much, but fixed the clunk in my spindles.
Jeff
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If the seals are double lip, use an Xacto Knife and trim back the outer seal, the inner seal is the one with the spring and removing the outer dust seal sure seems to help. I think it should be OK, anyone else?
Jeff
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i'm going to assume that they work with any of transmissions that come on the engines/cars listed in the charts.
some could probably work on a stateside cars, like the R32 GTS fitting in the Z32 5spd.
Thanks, Info like the R32 the same as the Z32 5 speed is what I was looking for.
Do any of the other models listed use the same trans as the KA
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Has anyone seen or heard about these gear sets? Does anyone know what trans in the USA would any of these work with? KA? Z-32?
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OMG!? MONZTER, you have way too much time on your hands and I hate you! thats freaking beautiful, I think ti would be easier to swap a complete Z32 IRS in but it wouldn't look so nice and likely weighs a lot more, and seeing as you made such a nice jig, these gonna be for sale?
No plans to sell them, just for my project. Thanks for the comments on the jig. I figure you cant make nice parts without a nice solid fixture.
Jeff
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WOW, I really love what you've done. Are you modeling everything in solidworks? I really like the idea on the z31 5 lug rear hub setup.
If you dont have time to sell or machine any of these parts, do you mind sharing them with DIYers like myself?
Best Regards,
Justin Olson
The complete front and rear suspension is modeled in Pro-Engineer, as it is always better to get things done right the first time by designing in a 3-d software as opposed to wasting a bunch of metal and time. All the CNC parts are not designed to be easily manufactured (the joy of only wanting to make 1 set) They are all surface machined, so they would be difficult to make manually. PM me and we can talk more.
Thanks Jeff
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Hi, Thanks for the comments.
The uprights and control arms are just 1 off parts, for my personal project. I really don’t sell this stuff as it seems I can never find enough time to simply finish my own car. Both the uprights and control arm are made of 4130 Cr-Mo. I polished all the tubes on the control arms before welding, welded them, and simply clear powder coated them. I will do the upright in semi black.
The CV axles are from a 300zx turbo with custom 1 inch shorter axles. They bolt to the same 300zx axle flange. What I did was take the rear bearing hub from the 300zx turbo trailing arms and cut it off. The OD of the hub is about the same size of the ID of the 240 strut hub. So with a small clean up of both parts on the lathe, I inserted the hub and welded it in. What is cool is that I now use the 5 lug 300zx turbo stub axles and bearings, and I offset the hub 20mm outboard, now I can run 5 lug 40mm offset 8.5 inch rims with perfect alignment and no wheel spacers.
Sorry if this is a little off subject.
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You know, after looking at the pics, and pondering for a few moments, I can think of at least one reason not to consolidate mustache and uprights into one piece.
Terry, on your setup, is this unit bolted directly to the frame of the car, or are there bushings? If the latter, then of course the twisting, vibration, etc. from the diff will be transferred to the control arms (not a good thing IMO). If the former, well, it'd pretty much have to be a hard-core racer to justify that harshness.
And so to Dave (arizonazcar) I must say, nevermind.....
Hey guys, Just saw your discussion on this post and thought you might be interested in my 1pc tubular set-up. Here is some pics
Jeff
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LOL, yeah, that guy had way to much time on his hands... (he he he!)
Scalloped the fuel rail as well!
I want a photo of the combustion chambers---I hear good things...
Actually, I usually work 11 hour days, the trick is no sleep.
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I have seen re-engineered mounts that utilize the Moustache Bar Urethane Bushings (where the bar mounts to the body) as Engine mounts. Captive bolt system, very sanitary, the mounts I saw.
Kind of negated the need for a reaction bar to brace the engine from rocking as well.
Like this..
Pretty easy to make, I also filled my Trans mount with urethane. The gears in the tranny shake alot and rattle at idle now. kinda annoying..
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Try this link http://www.bjbenterprises.com/ I have used most of ther product with success
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Thanks for the reply,
Sounds like a case were there is no substitution for experience, and patients
Jeff
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Hey Derek,
Nice pattern. Do you have to account for shrink by making the pattern oversized? If so by what percent? It always looks like the Cannon manifolds have shrunk and are too short when you try to line them up with the ports. Could this be why?
Thanks Jeff
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Damn, that dyno chart looks almost like JeffP's dyno chart from last Thursday---just lower on the scale.
I couldn't convince him to run a pull from 1500 in fourth gear for a true dispelling of the 'turbos have a non-linear response' myth, but the curve looks very much like yours, Jeff!
My kid loved the rides in your car at the Auto-X BTW. He now understands why Frank and all of us call the 260 'The Blue Turd, A.K.A. The Wallowing Pig'!
LOL
Neno is good luck, I always have a good run when he is in the pasenger seat. Thanks
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Hey Monzter,
those numbers are from a p-30 block at the rear wheels? Your making me feel better about working my l-24 if that is true. Anymore info on what you've done with that motor?
Yes, That was at the rear wheels before being broken in, I think it feels even a little better now. the block is the original P-30 that came in the car. I autocross it and what is so great is the way it revs and pulls all the way to 7500 no problem. Many of my fellow z guys run 280 blocks and are surprised to see how well a 240 can pull. I had the car at the MSA autocross last weekend and I feel having the 2.4 aginst all of the other 2.8s and 3.1 was no problem. I guess it depends on what you want. Here is a pic of the engine and head. Let me know if you need any other specs, if you plan on doing your own, maybe I can help. Jeff
Racing harness setup
in Interior
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So I found this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=73222&highlight=simpson+belts
It has answered many of my questions.
I have a friend at Simpson and I am looking at this set up. Any comments. I will only be using this for Autocross, I will retain the stock belts for commuting.
http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/products/product_detail.aspx?cat_id=189&prod_id=7103
Belt in / pull down / polyester webbing
Thanks Jeff